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We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Might be worth speaking to retrofitters such as autologics or Audi retrofits as members have used them in the past and they have been happy with the results. Might be able to activate them via vcds or obd11 etc.

The thermostat does not control the fans, that is the job of the temperature sensor. (Strictly speaking, any switch that is controlled by temperature is a thermostat, but let's not be distracted by that as it is contrary to convention in cars.) That the indicated temperature goes no higher than 70 without the fans suggests to me that either the thermostat remains open all the time or that the temperature reading is wrong. Does the temperature reading drop to the bottom of the scale when the engine is cold? Do you have a way to independently measure the temperature using a hand held infra red meter for example? At this stage I can not say whether the ECON fault is related to the temperature fault. I suggest you ignore it for the moment, but bear it in mind if you get other indications of a general electrical problem.

Hi nice to find another member that knows their fuel, I learned this long ago from a petro chemist I had in my cab, cetane / octane use of additives can only do more good than harm as they in moderation increase both, its all about increasing thermal burn rate which in real terms actually means lowing it down so it burns more efficiently leaving less unburnt fuel, more bang for your buck, supermarket fuel is blended down using fillers and detergent this gives more volume to the saleable amount IE 20000 litres is increased by 20%, but because detergent is water based it burns far less efficiently leaving more unburnt fuel and moisture which leaves all that sticky tar in the EGR valves on petrol and diesel, further problem being nearly all engines are direct injection so the recycled gas tends to coat the inlet valve backs therefore more sticky gunge in the stream will eventually exacerbate the problem, good dry efficient burn is good, sticky wet moisture laden bad burn is not. Steve.

I could not agree more. Why throw more good money after bad? It's unfortunate that if one wants to buy a cheap secondhand car one needs to have enough knowledge to know what you are letting yourself in for in terms of fault rectification. This applies much more to any vehicle that has been mapped or modified in regard to DPF or EGR removal because it is so much harder to obtain good free advice.

I did thanks - and not quite sure how I did it. I think it was the following.... I opened the car with the working key. I put the broken key in the ignition, pressed the unlock button and turned the key on. Then took the key out and pressed the lock button and the car locked. All is fine now.

No problem. Just a little update, post flush. We’re away this weekend, so have put 150mi solid drive since the flush. The car is now much hotter. Still nowhere near where my wife’s GLA gets, but I wasn’t cold on the drive. @Redwolf do you have Carista by chance? I do, and found a HVAC calibration which checked and set all the flaps on the vents. That would (I think) throw an error is any we’re stuck. Don’t know if that helps or not.

Really sorry to hear of your misfortune Steve, but it seems ‘an ill wind….’. It sounds as if all will be well in the end, and that’s the main thing. Interesting to read about Skoda rather than Audi, if only because virtually all cabs around here were Skoda going back around 10 years. I didn’t realise Skoda parts prices were going to be that much cheaper than Audi, but I used to get all my Audi parts at good prices from a Skoda dealer up the NE, until the supply dried up. It seemed VAG wanted to charge them 2 arms and 2 legs for the computer cross reference listings - making it totally uneconomic! Those who have stuck with VAG for cabs around here, seem to now favour Seat. Has Seat become the cheapest brand in the VAG range? Hope it all works out for you Steve. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Just a quick update in case anyone comes across similar problem. After removing parts of plastic trim around the steering wheel/column and above the pedals it became clear that the sound is actually coming from the part where the steering column enters the floor/bulkhead. There is a metal plate surrounded by a rubber part. The steering column goes into that metal plate. Some gentle prodding and plenty of lubricant in that area, especially under the edges of the rubber part seem to have sorted it out and the squeak appears to be gone, so I consider it fixed (at least for now).

Unless you have VCDS or equivalent to recode the battery details into the correct blocks you will have all sorts of problems throw up on the dash, RING an independent garage and get them to quote to fit it for you, I wouldn't use either of the 2 tyre centres you have had quotes from nor Halfords, as none of them know how to correctly code the battery in, and as Gareth has said, a garage will supply and fit what they get from the local motor factors, unless of course you ask for a certain battery, also garages like shops have to mark up their prices to RRP to make a living, before we had the internet you would only get garage prices, unless you knew where to go to get a better deal, now you can get prices less than RRP online

Hi you should never put a kink in any part of the washer pipe as this will cause all sorts of problems the pipes are routed with gentle bends and you will never lose pressure because both circuits from the pump have anti drain-back valves so when the pump is not being used the valves shut to maintain the pressure, example, last summer one of my cab colleagues could only get his washers to work at the front with the bonnet up, turns out he had replaced all the feed tubes with silicone hoses but forgotten to do each section against the old pipe so the one that went to the tank was about 10mm to short and kinked when he closed the bonnet, thats how critical it is.

WIll start the online research and let you know once I have a solution. Just wathcing a youtube video of a guy doing it through obdeleven, and will give it a go myself tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks

I'm not sure what size of wheel you currently have, but Audi have told me that I can definitely come down from my 21" wheels to 19", which is what I wanted.

Cracked it! Stupidly I was overlooking the fact that multiple modules were reporting 0 volts at terminal 15 when the ingnition was switched ON (which is pretty obvious if I looked at the VCDS logs properly). Terminal 15 relay 2 (under the steering column dash panel) must’ve got stuck which was preventing it from closing and giving ingnition power. I removed and tested the relay on the bench and it worked 100 times out of 100. I will order a new one so that I have a spare on hand. Moral of the story, read the damn VCDS logs fully!!! Hopefully this helps someone else out in future!

It must be all those fire breathing dragons Gareth. Audis can't take the heat. Happy Christmas. Cliff.

Hey Tony, 100k is quite a few miles for one of these depending on what has been done to it. I purchased mine at 50k and the Hadlex filter was clogged, this was after it was done 20k miles ago by the last owner. (but still working somehow) Most examples for sale don't have any diff or gearbox oil change history, although some do. Thankfully mine had the DSG oil changed at 35k & 50k. The filter clogs on these which then destroys the pump, this can be fixed in around 3 hours with a new pump oil & filter depending on the level of damage. In regards to the DSG oil, it is more important IMO as this is much much more expensive to repair than the rear diff. Personally, I would look out for one with some history & lower miles, even if it takes a few more months of suffering or saving etc. They are complicated cars and need to be looked after in an OCD-like fashion to avoid issues. Even at 50k, Mine needed a new Diverter, PCV, front door speaker, blower motor & condenser/re-gas. I did most of this myself so It wasn't so bad. Depending on what model/engine you are going for there are quite a few common issues to look out for when purchasing also. The DQ250 & DQ500 are a couple of the best gearboxes ever made, but still need to be looked after. I'm assuming you are looking at either the 2.0 TSFI or 2.0 TDI non-S/RS model, but the same principles of care and maintenance apply to all AWD DSG models. From my experience, unless you drive slowly I would follow the below schedule. If you drive chilled you can probably get away with the standard recommendations. DSG OIL & Filter 20k (Standard Reccomnedation 40k Miles) Haldex OIL & Filter 20k (Standard Reccomnedation 20k Miles) Engine OIL & Filter 5k (Standard Reccomnedation 10k Miles (RIP Turbo if you like to drive)) Brake Fluid 2/3 Years (Bog Standard) Another thing you could do is request the service history from the dealer, Previous Audi's I have looked at had missing history which I simply recovered by requesting it from the dealer. There is a solid chance that buying the higher mileage car with no history will end up costing you more than buying a cleaner example. Hope this helps,

Ich bin ein Hamburger

I have experienced my drivers door not opening from the outside and inside, but never both at the same time! On two occasions, in really cold weather the central locking opened all doors except the drivers door. This lasted a few weeks after which it miraculously worked again. Audi quoted me £400 to replace the lock, but I just wait it out. The inside failure was just a snapped cable, which was relatively easy to replace. A couple of obvious questions. Have you tried opening it with a key? The other thing to try is the MMI allows you to select what doors are opened by the central locking, front only or all. Try toggling it a few times to see if that changes anything. Sorry, but can't think of anything else to suggest. The bolts that secure the lock are only accessible with the door open, so it's a catch 22 situation. I wonder what an Audi dealer would do? It may be worth asking them, they may give you some ideas.

Hi I agree with Steve and Gareth on both options, can you specify what has failed as if its a pipe its either repairable or substituted with a different material with a similar bore, if you look at it I wouldn't mind betting your system is exactly the same as the A4/A5/A6 I think its a safe bet as VAGs love of globalisation means one part fits a load of other models, I to am a cabbie and I know exactly where you are coming from, I feel for you I really do, no car is like someone has cut your throat financially, I have come across this none in the country for your vehicle CR@P loads of times as with my engine mounts, ended up buying FEBI units which also fitted the A4 with a CNHA engine, oh no I was told by the main stealer they wont last, 70k later says no difference. If you get in a jam just get the adblue mapped out until you can get the parts its a lot cheaper than being off the road for six months. Steve.

Hi I have never bought a refurbished injector off eBay my first port of call is always United Diesels in the U.K, not only do they have a phone number but you always get a ton of good advice and any refurbished items always arrive in airtight packaging and look brand new you also get any deposit back in record time, most eBay ratings are based on friend and family reviews, the refurbishment of Piezo injectors like I think yours are requires a very special knowledge and equipment, Steve.

Hi Imran I have a 1997 80 cabriolet which has alloy trim around the wind screen and along the side and round the roof compartment, it was badly tarnished when I bought it and I tried everything to remove it including commercial tarnish remover, it didn’t work! I eventually tried a woodturners wax that contains a very minute amount of very fine grit in it, it worked wonders at removing the tarnish and brought the trim back almost like new. I applied it by wrapping a clean cloth round my index finger, picking up some wax and working it in small circular movements, leaving it for a few minutes then buffing it, not only did it remove 95% of the tarnish but also left a protective coat on the alloy to prevent it from tarnishing again. I have attached a pic of the wax i used, it should be available on EBay or you could try any of the woodturners supplies sites. If you don’t want to go to the trouble of hunting this brand down you could look for an alternative wax but just be careful of its abrasive content, the wax I used worked very well and you wouldn’t want to use an abrasive wax that would damage the finish. The wax I used is called “U Beaut” EEE-Ultra Shine. ‘Hope this helps! Turlough.

Went with your suggestion of Yara Ad Blue Steve. PSA for anyone following, Halfords have 3 x pouch’s for £19.98 at the moment. Got the dash message to add ‘at least’ 6 litres within 1500 miles yesterday so I’m already 2 down. I have done about 1000 miles in a couple of weeks so I’ll be interested to see how much I’m using.

Thanks everyone for the help, it's now booked in to get belt, tensioners, water pump and alternator belt done next wk.