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New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

All within half an inch to have missed it Colin - I feel sorry for him - it could happen to any of us. Perhaps we have more choice down this end of Wales, but £880 to deal with a minor-ish short scrape, does seem a little heavy on the pencil, as we say down here. Still, it’s done. Kind regards, Gareth.

Not been on here or the car for a while been very busy with work and personal things but got back on it today and it's all together so hopefully I can turn her over tomorrow

Hi. I changed the battery in the main key yesterday, and it did not fix the issue. However, the fault didn't appear today for some reason. I hope it will stay that way.

I could not agree more. Why throw more good money after bad? It's unfortunate that if one wants to buy a cheap secondhand car one needs to have enough knowledge to know what you are letting yourself in for in terms of fault rectification. This applies much more to any vehicle that has been mapped or modified in regard to DPF or EGR removal because it is so much harder to obtain good free advice.

So finally got around to sorting this been very busy with work for the past few months, the oil pump and the balance shaft cradle both have machined mating faces with no gaskets, I have also replaced the balance shaft with a kmb uprated version, and as you can see in the photos the oil pick up had a good amount of sealant clogging it up!!! So fingers crossed when it all goes back together , no low oil pressure warning , if it is still there it means the engine is badly worn which I just don't have the time to delve into.....

Just a quick update in case anyone comes across similar problem. After removing parts of plastic trim around the steering wheel/column and above the pedals it became clear that the sound is actually coming from the part where the steering column enters the floor/bulkhead. There is a metal plate surrounded by a rubber part. The steering column goes into that metal plate. Some gentle prodding and plenty of lubricant in that area, especially under the edges of the rubber part seem to have sorted it out and the squeak appears to be gone, so I consider it fixed (at least for now).

Hi, thanks for the add. John from Edinburgh, recently purchased a 2020 A3 30 tfsi technic. Looking forward to learning about the car, I do pretty much all my own maintenance, so will be researching how to posts and adding any info I learn on my journey as an Audi owner 😀

Steve, I could see all of Piotr's message by scrolling left. Not that it matters because Kelly has not bothered to respond to the thread.

Hi Mohammad, If it's any help to you, I have a a4 allroad with the S Tronic gearbox, oil change is at 38,000. miles. Brian.

Hi just go in the dealers throw it at the parts guy and say got one of these, no sense in paying £90 to talk to an idiot, become a cab driver like me and the idiots pay you. Steve.

In my opinion the valve stems are undoubtedly bent, in which case the pistons and conrods may well be damaged also. Take the head off and inspect the pistons crowns closely. If there is any sign of contact between valves and crowns you will then need to remove the sump and pull the pistons out to inspect the rods.

I'm not sure what size of wheel you currently have, but Audi have told me that I can definitely come down from my 21" wheels to 19", which is what I wanted.

Maris. It's a common problem with the driver's door lock and is usually caused by a damaged wire in the rubber bellows that connects the door to the pillar. Before buying another lock it would be worth checking the wires to the passenger door first.

THATK YOU TO AND HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO MEEEEEE FECCC ME AM 62 TODAY HOPE EVERYONE HAS A GOOD 2024 AND HOPE I HAVE ONE THIS YEARS NOT BEEN GOOD BUT HAY HOA HAPPY NEW YEAR FROM KEV

Wishing all forum members and their families a very enjoyable Christmas, and I hope 2024 will be kind to you all. Kind regards, Gareth.

Just thought I would update on diagnosis and repair. Fault was brake lights on all the time (ignition on) and glow plug light on dash flashing. Scan fault codes identified Brake Light/Cruise control circuit A. Just replaced brake light switch using Audi genuine part £21 and cleared all fault codes. Can get cheaper pattern part but felt worth using Audi part. Fault cured and glow plug light working as normal. A6 Avant 2007 2.0 diesel

Great news you've got this sorted. What is the part number for the sensor? Do you have a photo of it's location? It would be really helpful should anyone else have the same issue.

In case it helps anyone, I managed to sort this myself. Swapped the light units and still had the error message when the working right side unit was connected to the left. Assumed it was therefore a wiring problem so took off the boot hinge trim and went searching. Quickly found a broken wire at a bent bit of the wiring loom. Fixed the wire and made sure the wiring loom was properly reseated in the trim. 20 minute job and I'm very much a novice.

Hi Jon, having run just about every combination of discs and pads over the last million miles I can honestly say that Brembo are excellent, both discs and pads BUT the ATE discs will last longer as the carbon content is far higher, Bosch pads are very good used with the ATE/Brembo discs, most other brands Febi/Mintex/Delphi are good but tend to wear faster, if you re use the old bolts 20nm torque is about right as these are stretch bolts and ideally you would use new bolts but absent new bolts you wont want to put to much pressure on already stretched threads, most kits worth getting have new bolts and a wear sensor as if you don't replace the sensor yes the old one works but fails in a short space of time leaving you with a dash warning light, you can phone TPS but have a Defib unit handy, then do the sensible thing and go on parts in motion web site or eBay I have just bought genuine ATE front discs and a Bosch pad kit with sensor cable and new bolts for £170, its all there if you search and the rear discs and pads are always cheaper by about 40%. Steve.

Hi you are better off replacing the entire unit not to difficult, not to expensive, but make sure you buy a new rubber grommet as that deteriorates with age and give it a liberal coating of silicone grease when refitting grommet they tend to last longer, thats probably where your leak is. Steve.

Many thanks for the suggestions chaps, turned out I had stuffed up the timing by a few teeth 😱 Stripped it all down again and retraced my steps, timed it all correctly and she started first time. Perhaps the cam sensors prevented her from firing to protect the engine (thank goodness) running sweeter than ever now. cheers Sam

Hi if the slave cylinder gives out it sprays the clutch pressure plate and driven plate with clutch fluid, it would be financial suicide to just replace the flywheel as the whole clutch wears as a set so you would have a driven plate and pressure plate with no definitive milage trying to bed in on a new flywheel, the flywheel alone is over £500 and if the old clutch kills the new flywheel that is money down the drain, its a major strip down and apart from the clutch kit you will need a new driveshaft and radial shaft seals Steve..