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Anyone interested in going to this show? Has been great in the past. This year's Jap Vs German with Rogue Static's own twist is back again at our newest venue Aldwinians rugby club in Manchester. bringing the people of Manchester some stunning motors and a great atmosphere all aimed at for the love of cars, don't have a Jap or German motor? not an issue we welcome everyone. We are asking for £5 per car on entry, which will all be donated to our fantastic charity "SSAFA the armed forces charity" who we have proudly supported for years now. there will be trades, food and facilities as per usual with our events, please be aware that the pitch is out of bounds but we are now able to place light vehicles on the apron near the pitch which now gives us more vehicular room than last time. our marshalls and event staff will all have two way radios in case of emergency and all relevant R.A.M.S have been supplied to the venue. So with that all taken care of all you have to do is click going, pop it on your calendar and show up 😁 Traders confirmed: MAS Decals Swan Lady 3D Scratch entertainment (aka DJ Liam) Virtual Rides (VR rollercoaster) Squid Ink Detailing The Coffee Guy And our special guest Dan Red Media we have three Handcrafted awards to give out too: Best Japanese car Best German Car Best in Show This is a static event and we keep to our policy of park up keys out whilst attending our events anyone caught being a !Removed! will be asked to leave and escorted from the venue, better it's us than the venues manager 😉 no tickets just pay in entry our staff will be on hand with donations buckets when you arrive and throughout the day every little can help those in need greatly and we thank you all in advance.

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

@Steph1234 my dealership is Huntingdon Audi. I am awaiting a response from Ferzana from Audi Executive, she's written to apologise for the delay, no surprise they are inundated with complaints!

Hi they are always a pain as the water from the washer rots everything try a good soak in plusgas then use a deep socket, other than that its a new motor. Steve

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

Did you transfer the door modules from the old doors to the new doors? As this could be the issue

Battery suggestion was me 😉 you've taught me well Gareth🙂

No I actually just went to my local mechanic. I'm not sure if I just got lucky but he's very trustworthy and reasonably priced. Based around Dalston in East London.

Got this sorted. Had to get rack refurbished. Company said that ecu on rack read and faults were water damage and voltage inconsistency. Found broken wire on loom travelling over back differential. Got this replaced and rack fitted and after 8 weeks we are out and about again 🤦🏼

Gearbox in my A3 had been notchey since purchase. Dawned on me today this is no longer the case. I may still carry out a gear oil change. Shouldn’t temp fate but I do like a free fix 🤔😁

My settings are already on the least sensitive. Still happens. Doesn’t real worry me though. I’m keeping it into its fourth year now as I quite like it and nothing within a reasonable price that is compatible came up. I’ve got exactly 12 months to plan what’s next…

those error messages are in fact a frequent thing and it comes down to the sensitivity of your settings (radar, collision assist etc). You can adjust your settings to pick up far less in the realms or items vs distance but not recommended. FYI the car records loss of vision or detection as faults and stay logged until removed. I recently had Audi assist come out for something else related I had 136 codes stored and following that CAM bus errors because of how many were stored. I was politely reminded that these issues have become a common issue causing modules to slow down or self fault due to bus memory being clogged with error codes. from time to time it’s recommended to review and clear. Ideally around service intervals. You’d think your main dealer would do this as part of their service but they don’t and leave them…

Further update on the 7 Speed S-Tronic DL-501 issue ...... I haven't been able to get the adaption re-done yet after the full gearbox and both filters service as Matt with VCDS has been incredibly busy with his day job, but the one thing I will say after using the car for a few weeks now is it is incredibly smoother than it was before the service and the first VCDS mild adaption, no longer does it thump from second to first and even in reverse there seems to be a definite difference in the take up of the gear, especially on a slope, something it didn't like doing at all before the service, I am genuinely surprised how fresh filters and proper manufacturer recommended "MEYLE" DSG OIL can make that much of a difference, I haven't taken it on a long run yet and got everything in the gearbox up to a constant temperature and speed but around town driving is noticeably much smoother. As it started to fail on me and throw the dreaded yellow warning light on the dash after long motorway cruising I don't want to count my chickens too soon, but I'm hopeful that with a final and Full VCDS Gears Adaption my problem may well be pretty much sorted, as usual will keep posting updates for other members ......... 🤔

Did you find out how to remove the center console in the end?

Well after lots of research and worry, I decided against the purchase of that particular car! I noticed a couple of electrical warnings, and with the wet boot, I think it may have been an ongoing problem. So just waiting for my deposit back. Finding it very difficult to find a good used Q7! Thank you for your help and advice though.

Correct it can only be done by main dealer. Expect to Psy £500

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 air suspension problems are well documented and can be costly to repair

Hi Magnet, Thanks for commenting. I had to drive my car today 70 miles the noise was not apparent ongoing but just when turning on the engine and going slower. I know the belt is tighter because pre garage visit- I took off the casing to see the cam belt - I wiggled it and it was more loose. On hearing the change in sound - rechecked under the casing and the cam belt is definitely tighter. I asked the garage after changing the bolts if my cam belt was OK and they did not say they had done anything to it. The independent garage specialise in audi and use genuine parts. They seem to have a good rep. The water pump is on the opposite side on my 1.4 petrol engine I am told. I am thinking of going back tomorrow to ask them about it. (Noise).

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Those v70s were great!

Hi Steve, I personally would not go anywhere near that one it looks like cheap trouble until you get the bill for the rebuild, go for a later engine thats got some history and runs, not some vague statement that it did and then spent an indeterminate time in storage, no milage, I think he wants to go to the pub on someones £80, I have made the same mistake in the past especially when driven by desperation, take your time send your cash wisely and make sure what goes in at least works. Steve

Let's not forget we also had a pandemic in 2020 which shut most of Europe.

Oil level sensor Paul?

Hi , 2017 a6 with the same leak on both sides of the car , running down A frame and into foot well . The water as I'm sure is the same for most gets in where the water flow / level becomes to much for the drain and builds up ( doesn't take much ) it overflows to the inside of the wind defector and the leak gets in where there is a steel spring finger . Water gets in where it locates towards the front .... BUT regardless of that , iv found at the rear of the spring finger , under hole is a 10mm × 10mm square hole in the frame on both sides which flows directly in onto the headliner. Joke of a design. I'm working on a fix at the minute 🤞

Hi everyone I'm new here and already had some great help from members, read loads of useful stuff, I've personally imported a 8p s3 in yellow for my wife from Japan it's not our first import I buy all our cars from Japan. I will try to add a couple of photos soon

Ditto what Gareth wrote. Let me add that it is always wise to change the water pump belt at the same time as the cambelt because the same expensive work is needed to access them both.

remapping with adblue delete should help,

Loving those wheels 👍

Hi everyone, I'm not an Audi owner yet, but that's about to change as I just pulled the trigger on a 2023 A5 Sportback. After 8 years of driving SUVs, I'm looking forward to something that goes round corners properly!

I have a fix. I also own a mk2 Golf and I spotted a detail on the gas peddle cable that is the same for adjustment, at the end there is a castellated section with a clip on it for tension, I added a couple of castellations to the tension and I now have 1k solid tickover. 😁 The clip sinks into the rubber grommet, lowering the tension over time. 😎

Heres how I did mine on my previous car. The sensor was just over a tenner on eBay. You’ll need to scroll about halfway down the page when it opens. https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/threads/project-audi.348112/page-9

Software version is 3620 MMI software version is release-35.12-2126-SNAPSHOT-28.06.2021-13:58:42 Navigation database is V03959822FK_P1140_EU_2024.03 Since having it updated I now have Android Auto wirelessly which I didn't before (had to connect a cable) Hope this helps !

Hi have you tried eBay with that part number they have loads of them.

Lovely to meet everyone. Recently purchased an RS4 Carbon Black Avant (2020). Certainly more interesting than my wife's 1.2T Fiesta.. 👋

Well I'd like to say the oil that came out of the gearbox was a golden dark brown, but in reality almost black, so definitely needed doing, but nothing untoward on the magnets and filters were slightly dirty as to be expected, but not all clogged up or mishapen. The complete MEYLE service kit may be a little more expensive than others, but is has literally everything you need, right down to rubber O rings and copper washers, new bolts, 2 x filter housings, perfectly fitting metal gasket with locating lugs same as factory spec, and of course 7 litres of OE spec oil. Just awaiting a slot to get the VCDS adaption done again, don't think its going to cure my problem to be honest, if the gearbox could speak it would mock me with words such as " So you think you can throw a couple of hundred pounds at me and I'm going to perform for you .... Come back when you have a couple of thousand" 😣 To be continued .............

Hello R? Certainly +1 for Steve’s recommendation. Why is everyone still hell bent on using ECP despite having virtually discontinued -? their high % discounts on their ‘Retail price’, which generally ended up with the buyer paying more than they would have paid elsewhere? Another tip - but keep it to yourself!! - PinM often have a % discounts at the end of the month. I too have had superb service from them, and they are always my first port of call for any parts I need. Incase it helps, a family member is now ‘experimenting’ with Brembo following disappointment with genuine JLR parts - so far, Brembo are proving to be more efficient and longer lasting. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Why not fill in your name R, and your location - big place is England! We don’t bite on here, we just hope to come over as being helpful.

If you wanted to keep the Audi’s reg and identity, it would be classified as *significant* changes to the suspension, running gear, powertrain etc which would mean an engineer’s report and IVA according to memory. However, it is perfectly legal to alter the body around as you wish so using the identity from the Isuzu would be less onerous. Not pain free, but less pain than the other way round. The rules about major components are what you need to read as well. Points for various bits and you need to score enough to avoid a Q plate. Finding a 2.8 diesel Trooper that hasn’t disintegrated into microscopic flakes of rust is also going to be a mission. I went through similar converting a Land Rover from a 2.25 petrol to 5.9 Cummins 6BT diesel. Having a friendly MOT guy to advise on various aspects was very helpful. And no, I wouldn’t do it again 😀 But good luck if you go for it.

Anybody know where I can get my gearbox mechatronics unit checked as I have lost my reverse gear and have a warning sign audi talking thousands of van need a quick fix west Midlands area anybody body know a good mechanic for the job

Thank you 😊 lol, well I'm hoping I'll be able to get it back on the road asap as I want to bring my daughter along to the shows. Oh bless ya, hope you get better soon. Definitely, wife and I have been wanting children for the last 7 years.