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Anyone interested in going to this show? Has been great in the past. This year's Jap Vs German with Rogue Static's own twist is back again at our newest venue Aldwinians rugby club in Manchester. bringing the people of Manchester some stunning motors and a great atmosphere all aimed at for the love of cars, don't have a Jap or German motor? not an issue we welcome everyone. We are asking for £5 per car on entry, which will all be donated to our fantastic charity "SSAFA the armed forces charity" who we have proudly supported for years now. there will be trades, food and facilities as per usual with our events, please be aware that the pitch is out of bounds but we are now able to place light vehicles on the apron near the pitch which now gives us more vehicular room than last time. our marshalls and event staff will all have two way radios in case of emergency and all relevant R.A.M.S have been supplied to the venue. So with that all taken care of all you have to do is click going, pop it on your calendar and show up 😁 Traders confirmed: MAS Decals Swan Lady 3D Scratch entertainment (aka DJ Liam) Virtual Rides (VR rollercoaster) Squid Ink Detailing The Coffee Guy And our special guest Dan Red Media we have three Handcrafted awards to give out too: Best Japanese car Best German Car Best in Show This is a static event and we keep to our policy of park up keys out whilst attending our events anyone caught being a !Removed! will be asked to leave and escorted from the venue, better it's us than the venues manager 😉 no tickets just pay in entry our staff will be on hand with donations buckets when you arrive and throughout the day every little can help those in need greatly and we thank you all in advance.

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi everyone fault has been repaired by Abz Audi ,costs covered by Ayr Audi .the problem was caused by faulty abs sensor wiring loom ,great result regards AR

@Steph1234 my dealership is Huntingdon Audi. I am awaiting a response from Ferzana from Audi Executive, she's written to apologise for the delay, no surprise they are inundated with complaints!

Hi they are always a pain as the water from the washer rots everything try a good soak in plusgas then use a deep socket, other than that its a new motor. Steve

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Hi take the screw out of the other side most motor motor parts stores will be able to match it. Steve.

I'd definitely recommend a second opinion on this. Alternatively contact Audi customer services

Hi guys, first time here, just seeing if anyone was interested in my FiL’s A4. He’s lovingly looked after it from new, first registered in September 2000, stacks of paperwork and only 94,000 miles. He’s only selling as has finally taken the plunge and bought a new Q2 (at age 83!) so this is no boy racer car. Rare-ish 2.4 petrol, runs well, tax to September, MOT until July. Bad points - slight scuff to front wing, little bit of bubbling on roof, but nothing you’d not expect for a 24-year-old car. Garaged every day, and Audi of course offered peanuts for it. Tbh he’d rather see it go to a good home. Currently located in Redcar. Please inbox with any questions, I’ve tried to be honest but I’m not a specialist so please let me know if I can help. Cheers.

No I actually just went to my local mechanic. I'm not sure if I just got lucky but he's very trustworthy and reasonably priced. Based around Dalston in East London.

I had a garage do it as it’s not easy on a drive! But forum discussions at the time (if you do the job yourself) suggested blanking off the air pipe and running the pump to check for leaks (dont run it for more than 1 minute in ten) it’s just not designed for it and will likely burn the motor or compressor seals. if you can pressurise it another way to test, I’d do so.

PS; it’s not really safe to drive at all TBH with collapsed suspension on 1 side, and defo not at any speed over 30. My Allroad had the tyre rubbing on the wheel arch when it blew a bag. sorry!

I agree with Steve, one of the bags has probably gone. best to get it sorted asap as the pump will keep trying to push air into that side and it’s simply not designed or able to run for long periods, it will fail in fairly short order (been there, done that!😔), it takes the 40A Relay with it too. ‘oem’ parts are made by non Audi specialist manufacturers/suppliers, eg, air pump is same as used by Mercedes, RR, Range Rover, Bentley, etc. so I bought a pump from the US manufacturer for £300 instead of £1300 from Audi. single Audi airbags arent too bad, but if it’s more than one, I’d look for the US made upgraded versions that used to come with a lifetime gaurantee and replace all 4. depends how long you plan to keep it tbh.

I'd suspect that the bag isn't inflating and changing it is the only option.

Finally this issue has been explained in a simple manner. I've been chasing a leak in my GTI with the same engine and haven't found anyone explain it the way you did. Thanks for this and I did subscribe and like this! Thanks man, take care Kodi

Turns out the Haynes book threw me a red herring on the ACE engine the mid shaft only runs the oil pump, therefore no need to have a timing point on the cog. I found this out after rotating it with my hot wire rig setup but nothing was happening and the wires to the coil from my golf were getting hot. I even took off the distributor cap and sure enough the arm was not moving. Even I found another string on the net that has a sketch of a hole by the bell housing that should show a timing mark, however that was not moving. Then I went back to Haynes and looked up distributor where I found, I quote “ACE and AAR engines, the distributor is located on the right hand of the engine and is driven off the rear of the camshaft. After finding out my cam belt was 2 teeth out, I put all back together again, indecently the distributor cap had a mount bolt loose, that would not help. I manually cranked the engine over, no issues. Started on the button idled fine up to 60 degrees where the engine started to search again, but not as bad as before. I just instinctively unplugged the isv and she purred like a cat at just over 1k and was rock solid, plugged isv back in and the searching came back, new one on order. I turned off the car, and waited 5 minutes but she would not fire up. Back to Haynes for inspiration and eventually I found a problem that I feel is the root cause,…. The connector on the loom to Part OEM 034919369C has been wired wrongly, not only that somebody tried to correct the fault by forcing the two parts upside down and the new connector is also broken. I have found a you tube person who prints new ones as the connector is no longer available. 3-pin connector 893971974. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for the correct wires to locations they could show to me so I can get this faux pas sorted out. I feel close to getting this car running the way she should again, what an interesting day I have had.

Well after lots of research and worry, I decided against the purchase of that particular car! I noticed a couple of electrical warnings, and with the wet boot, I think it may have been an ongoing problem. So just waiting for my deposit back. Finding it very difficult to find a good used Q7! Thank you for your help and advice though.

Hi Natasha and welcome, this forum has a lot of info on Q7 ownership and its pitfalls as well as solutions to those pitfalls. Steve.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Bill. The Audi service schedule is more or less all you need do to keep it in decent condition, though I would add two caveats: 1/ Change the cambelt ahead of schedule if it has not been replaced for a few years. Even though the car may not have reached the recommended mileage, (you have not mentioned the actual distance covered since the belt was last changed,) belts can degrade even when not used. Given the consequences of belt failure abroad it makes sense to my mind to change it in advance. 2/ Take the car for a fast motorway journey of about half an hour well before your next continental holiday. That will reveal any faults that may need to be sorted out before you go abroad.

Well i finally got my coolant leak issue resolved. Hose and seal issues. So extended warranty wouldn't cover it. Dealer said they will cover costs as gesture of good faith. ( i did wait a while for an appointment) I am pleasantly surprised, and faith in the dealers has been considerably restored. Any other pleasant dealership stories out there.

Ok thanks for reply. Took it to main dealer and of course diagnostic test did not reveal malfunction so advised to monitor it. However, later I did notice that if I pull handle hard it seems to stop it from locking but I still do not think this should be necessary so will see how it goes.

Welcome Alberto, Are you saying you and/or your son are capable of safely renewing brake pads? It seems you have already bought replacement pads. Since the seller seems disinterested in sorting it out, why not carry out your own assessment of the remaining brake pad thickness, and simply renew them - since you have them. Worse possible case:- brake pad wear light remains on after you have done that -? Worry about sorting that out when you get to that point. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Audi have replaced the drivers door latch under warranty part no. A4K2 837 016 H the car still at Audi checking hand brake .

NICE B5 BUD

Oil level sensor Paul?

Hello Jay, The definitive answer lies in the build record, and you should be able to obtain this from Audi Cust. services, or possibly through a dealer - both through the VIN. Possible theory:- delayed release due to the chip crisis?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi its pretty tight in there I would definitely check the depth of the recess more than any thing to make sure the tyre width wont exceed the height of the floor cover a good quality rubber boot liner would take care of any chafing issues, my A6 was never even close to the amount of boxes and wires you have. Steve.

Will do me for now.

Hi it took so long because the software to run electric power steering was not that well developed, if mechanical steering fails you can still steer, on the early electrical steering if it fails you are stuck, the main reason for the development of electric steering was emissions as it wont require the engine to drive the pump thus pushing up engine emissions and electric steering has been about on production cars since about 2008. Steve.

For sale: 2003 Audi A3 Quattro Sport 1.9 TDI (130 BHP) 3 door hatchback The car has fairly low mileage for its age (not quite146,000 miles). Careful lady owner from 2007 to present (1 prior owner) Purchased in 2007 the car is still running well and has been serviced at makers specified intervals. (Full service history available). MOT covers up to 11 November 2024. Latest regular cambelt & water pump replacement was January 2021 (@135,800 miles). Reconditioned gearbox & new clutch in January 2022 (@139,900 miles). All road springs have been renewed. Suspension bushes renewed. New headlamp housings were fitted in 2017. New battery was fitted in February 2023 (5 year guarantee). New front tyres in November 2023. (Rear tyres have over 60% tread remaining). Minor mechanical repairs were addressed as required during ownership, & details can be provided. There are a few very minor bodywork ‘dings’. Alarm removed for repair (available). Fuel & temp gauges under reading. Love this car but reluctantly selling as we don’t have space for it any more. Looking for best offer of £1,000 plus for this rare A3 variant.

New here, never owned an Audi until now heres a wee pic

Sorry Full Service History and 2 Owners

Will do, looking forward to getting it back but I feel my ownership may not last long at this point as garage has advised me to get fixed and get gone, but that would mean I’d lose a fair bit in the short time I’ve had it, and I’d just put 4 new tires on.

Update, still in garage but mechanic had a week off, taken apart and parts awaiting testing, pump and injectors. they did say they had some “sludge” in the turbo hoses ? Not had any experience with these cars before so I’m bald and chewed through all my nails.

Here's my (now Sold) 2005 A3 2.0 TDI sport.. Replaced by 2012 A3 1.4tfsi ... work in progress...

Well well well After spending a small fortune this last 18 months on my B8 I stumbled on a stunning A4, B9 Avant 2017 in twilight grey at a price I just couldn’t miss - pic below…. PS A4 B8 in cuvee silver now looking for a new home

Thank you so much. Will look into them. Sorry to hear you've been ill. Hope you're recovering now? I'd suspended work on the A6 in the short term whilst I've been doing the house up and getting prepped for our new (first) arrival.

Hi can anyone help my car is throwing on the EML with the code for running lean on bank 1. Also it sometimes has a slight misfire. Do you how I can fix it?