Stevey Y

Hi it gives you the code and when it occurred, what time it occurred, and how many times it has occurred as well as an unlearning counter which gives the amount of drive cycles before it deletes itself, can't ask for more really. Steve.

Hi neither, if its running Adblue take the spray head off and pour it in the hole if not there is an EGT sensor near where the top of the DPF is use that as any thing near the turbo can suck it in to the cylinders and lock the whole thing up, the problem with the way you are going to try is that the exhaust gas is going up the pipe and the cleaner can be sucked in to the sensor. Steve.

Sorry my old fruit you often have to google fault codes but at least you have real codes to google, these cars are always full of erroneous codes, in fact I think they have a code for the wind blowing the wrong way LOL. Steve.

Hi I would use something like Wynns off car DPF cleaner and when finished back flush it with a jet wash on LOW power paying extra attention to flushing to the reverse way to the gas flow as you get more crud out of the way, take all the sensors out before you do anything as the cleaner often sends the sensors blind permanently. With regard to the cam belt do it now as you could well be living on borrowed time, replace the lot idler pulleys and water pump. Steve.

Hi have you changed the pollen filter recently? Steve.

Hi without sight of the paint I couldn't tell you, but the one thing I can tell you is get the first service done by the Dealer to get your warranty, after that you can use an indie and so long as they use O.E. parts there will be no loss of warranty and its a hell of a lot cheaper, dont go for the extended service intervals thats false economy and with the milage you do once a year would be perfect. Steve.

Hi they will most likely need coding to the car also checthat the loom service is in place to power the heater pads. Steve.

Hi have a look on eBay none of the covers are exact fit so around £60 should get you a good near enough set as for the mats they do mat anchoring kits aftermarket, they also do rubber transmission covers which you have to cut to fit but for around £15 they do the job. Steve.

Hi VCDS is the best possible thing you could buy, I have it and despite its price its amazing the support site is beyond helpful, on your year of Audi there wont be anything you can't adapt or reprogram, I personally would adapt everything you have moved or cleaned/replaced, it should also put the light out, just take it with you when you go for your inspection and if the light is on clear it before the inspection as it is unlikely to return immediately as all these faults require a certain amount of drive cycles before the ECU cottons on to the fact the fault is still there, you may well find that a relearn on the pressure sensor cures it but either way it will buy you time to decide what you want to do. Steve.

Hi you have replaced most of the relevant parts, easy check wipe the inside of the tail pipe if you get a load of soot on your fingers the DPF is cracked that will throw that code also when you replaced the pressure sensor did you re adapt the new unit. Steve.

Hi I think that even if you get the right part number that Audi will tell you that its not available anymore, try the ZAP7 website as they do parts catalogues for the older vehicles and once you have the number it will probably be down to buying an aftermarket unit from eBay or similar. Steve.

Hi I am glad you can cover the basics that will help a lot and a grand on the clutch will cover the parts, the car you are looking at has the same engine as my one had and believe me when I tell you that you will have to buy something above cheap for the diagnostics, I ran mine for over 270k and I can confirm that at some point soon it will suffer the dreaded P200 code which is the low pressure EGR cooler blocked which regardless of how fast you drive will happen I strongly advise that you make good use of the forums archive in both the A4/A6 sections as this will give a good insight into the problems you may encounter, the P200 and Adblue system failures being very common and expensive both parts and labour, I wish you the best of luck, the two items I mention are definitely not DIY. Steve.

Hi, yes its been looked after but if you knowledge of cars is limited steer well clear as its coming up to the milage where DPF faults will occur along with likely a new clutch, the timing belt is a plus but consumables such as pads and discs can be pretty eye-watering if you are set on having an Audi buy the petrol version as its a lot less prone to emissions related problems. Its cheap for a reason. Steve.

Hi you may not be aware that if you fit a dipstick it could void your warranty as they are not officially approved parts, they will use any excuse to void a warranty, I believe the temperature sensor is built in with the level sensor in the sump. Steve.

Hi anybody checked the end float on the crankshaft. Steve

Hi sorry to hear of your problems, but I would not take your diesel specialist word as law as I have noticed a lot of them dont have the equipment to service Piezo injectors, try United Diesels who are at the top of the injector evolutionary tree, if not try second hand from a company called Nirro they break VAG cars and do some very good parts for not a lot of money, let us know how you get on, BTW I dont blame you for avoiding Alibaba and his four million thieves. Steve.

Hi the servo vacuum pump is indeed the cam driven type, various manufacturers have tried the electronic type but gave up as they were not reliable which I can see as long as the engine is turning you have vacuum unless your one has a leak on the seal between the unit and the engine. Steve.

Hi go on LLL carports website put in your VIN and it will give you the part number for L/R units. Steve.

Hi the default strategy for failed sensors would dictate that the fuelling will be higher than normal, but in saying that the only other thing to present such symptoms would be a collapsed CAT, try the sensor first its the cheapest part. Steve.

Hi I wouldn't worry about torque settings for the lower ball joints etc as just tight will suffice if you are using the original fixings, the hub nut I would do at 80nm as 148nm sounds like overkill anything I have ever reassembled has always been a case of tighten until it wont turn, a drop of blue thread lock works as well as it stops the nut/bolt from collecting moisture as well as stopping any creeping on the thread, if you really want all torque settings they are all on line, along with the lug nut settings. Steve.

Clifford I really appreciate your sense of humour, nice one. Steve.

Hi could be a collapsed PCV diaphragm, please let us know the outcome. Steve.

Hi bit confused, where is the breather hose on the air filter, not talking about the PCV hose? Steve.

Hi loads of control modules in the boot and if they get damp loads of trouble, may well be worth looking under the carpet in the boot if any of them are damp dry it out and treat the connectors both sides male/female with some WD40 if that works find the leak. Steve.

Hi I doubt its the turbo as if that was gone the howling would be there all the time sounds more like a split boost hose. Steve.