Magnet

Welcome Gregory, Two options:- Visit your nearest dealer - armed with your VIN - and if (in caps) the original wheels have not already been refurbished, they should be able to provide you with a colour code and touch-up or aerosol. Visit a local wheel refurbisher and seek advice there. Please let us know how you get on so other members can benefit from your experience. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Stefan, Not sure where my mention of websites comes from - ? Regards, Gareth.

£150 ish for a Halfords branded battery? Who now manufactures Halfords batteries? - don’t know. Worth thinking about its equivalent Exide from Parts in Motion EBay - delivered to your door for a discounted £94 ish until 16/2 ?

No problem Di, if we can help, we will. Could you post some photos of the repaired hose, and the other ones you would like to renew? Regards, Gareth.

What brand of battery are you considering, and where are you going to get that fitted?

Hello Ci, Hoses are generally long lived components these days. Are any of yours in a condition where they are visibly deteriorated, or will they be adequate for service while you search for replacements? Regards, Gareth.

Tax and insurance status significantly controls your ability to take this car anywhere for further inspection. I guess you don’t want to share that information, so are we all making impractical suggestions of reporting this issue to DVSA? ‘Consumer rights argument’ ? Really not seeing this, except that if you have a concern about work which has been done, then the protocol is to address that concern at source. I’m probably putting two and two together and probably making five, but if you want a resolution, act as advised, or simply re-bleed all four brakes. Regards, Gareth. Post overlapped Richard’s.

Thanks, but back to the fundamental question - why didn’t you raise the issue with them once you started to drive the car away? If not then, have you expressed your discontent since? The situation is this - you shouldn’t drive this car if you (in caps) believe the brakes are inadequate, and as as been suggested and on going actions remain your sole responsibility. Yours isn’t to diagnose possible causes, but to set up a plan to complain to the appropriate source. If it were mine I would select from the following:- Complain to the garage that carried out the work and issued the MOT. Notify the Driver & Vehicle Standards Agency that you consider the brakes to be inadequate despite it having been issued with an MOT pass on x date, and has covered x miles since. Is the car now taxed and the insurance valid?

Repeating - dealer parts for these applications, for reasons given. Not sure how I can be of further help, so I’ll leave it to others.

Fair point Cliff, but a certain amount of pedal travel (OP doesn’t quantify) could be expected since car has just been fitted with new discs and pads all-round, and need some miles under its belt to bed in. Please let us know what a ‘fair bit…’ equates to Leah. Regards, Gareth.

Please come back to the forum with an update. This update could be of help to other members in the future. Thanks, Gareth.

Has any of the above been of any use to you Philip?

Hello Stefan, Do a forum search under ‘Part numbers’ or Part identification’, selecting Everywhere in the drop- down menu, and your answers should be there. Regards, Gareth.

Am I missing something here? So work was carried out on the braking system, and the hydraulics were not bled properly. The car was put on the rolling road to possibly identify which brake line still contained air. Once identified from the rolling road test, that offending wheel was re- bled to (partly?) to rectify the pedal to the floor symptom. The question remains:- are the brakes now up to the MOT requirements or not? As I see it, the pedal no longer goes to the floor, so really no need to criticise - unless the brakes do not meet the MOT requirements, and we don’t know whether they do! I would question the OP’s judgement of not doing the basic pre MOT checks - of which headlight lens deterioration would be one, but we are all different. Also, if you are (understandably?) dissatisfied with the work carried out, then the obvious first port of call wouldn’t be to address the issue with them, since no one on here can offer any judgement on the vehicle without inspecting it. Please let us know what your next move will be Leah. Regards, Gareth. p.s. I don’t have any allegiance to any MOT station, but we only have one side of the problem, but I fail to understand why the issue wasn’t /hasn't been addressed at source.

Thanks, but where did you come from, and why link to a 2 year old thread which really doesn’t link to your post?

Hello Di, Enter your VIN into LLL Parts website, and that should give you the individual hose part numbers. You can then search EBay U.K. and International for the part numbers. Hose ‘set’?? Very much doubt whether there ever was such a thing - in preference to locating and buying the individual hoses you want. Please let us know how you get on, for the benefit of other members in the future. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Navs, My first port of call would be to get the front wheels balanced. No symptoms first thing in morning?? Possibly explained by tyre not then warmed up and more rigid. My suggestion would be to get them balanced immediately following a good run. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Goran, So called OEM is a much used term on so many aftermarket products, and really boils down to no guarantee that it is of the same quality as the component built into the car originally. Strangely, the two components you mention, are the two I get twitchy about :- Thermostat - had too many inconsistent aftermarket brands over the years, so I bite the bullet and pay the extra at the dealer, based on my labour is free, so invest well! Water pump - same. Please note, the logic for the above is based on not knowing who the suppliers are to VAG. Hepu? - seems they are currently not as good as they were. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Rob, Has anyone carried out a coolant pressure test on the car? How much coolant is it losing in say 200 miles? One simple cost-free test to do, is to take the car on a good run of at least 20 miles. Immediately on your return, get a glamorous assistant to rev the engine at a steady 2,000 rpm for 3 minutes while you observe the exhaust - looking for any white smoke. Please report back with your findings. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Naveed, As Brian says, but your description is vague. Does it always vibrate around 60 mph? You now state ‘…only happens first thing when I drive..’ How does that stack up with the answer to the first question? Same brand of tyres across each axle? Tyre pressures checked? Do you also feel this vibration if you brake from around 60 mph? Do you also feel the vibration through the driver’s seat? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Dean, When was the auto box oil last changed?

Welcome Lee, It might be getting over repetitive, but a quick forum search will always point to first eliminating battery efficiency before considering any other more complex possibilities. Battery efficiency checking is usually free ( Halfords stores normally do this). If found to be to be sub standard, you would do your wallet a favour by coming back to us before committing to buy. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Maris, Being realistic, the chance of the situation you refer to in your last sentence occurring ( with members on here) is so remote that you just have to forget that possibility. What is the aftermarket price difference in the DMF and the solid one? Not best practice, but if price is critical, have you considered a secondhand DMF? Regards, Gareth.

No shame intended Paul. Just respect for your wallet, and appreciation of buying quality parts at competitive prices. Recommendations:- have a look at Brembo from reputable EBay sellers. I’ve always had good service from Parts in Motion - if it helps. Regards, Gareth.

So could we ask what symptoms you have with this car’s clutch mechanism, and if cost is king, then do you intend simply renewing only part of the assembly - or all of it? If cost is indeed king, I guess you can by pass quality LUK/ Sachs components and fit other cheaper spurious aftermarket brands. Regards, Gareth. p.s. Being realistic rather than pessimistic, I think it’s a very tall order that any members on here work for motorfactors, and if they did, they would have to order both kits, since parts are generally obtained to order rather than being retained on the shelf. Having said that, you might find I’m wrong. Regards, Gareth.