Magnet

As Steve says - with the emphasis on treating only one bush at a time. Otherwise you won’t know which is the offending one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Christopher, If 5w/30 fully synthetic is the handbook-recommended oil , and you have been using Quantum Longlife, why do you want to deviate from it? Is the car using oil? If you are insistent on deviating - since some suggest you do (will be advantageous?) then I would stay away from semi synthetic 10w/40 ( synthetic technology as some marketing executives wish to call it!). Appreciate there has been some recent debate about it on here, but I would prefer to maintain my opinion about using it - but that’s my opinion. Perhaps you could let us know why you prefer to move away from 5w/30 Christopher. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Wayne, If the car has been well maintained, oil and filter wise, then 162K should not dictate an engine rebuild. Noisy? Well worth getting the degree and origins of the noise diagnosed, before doing anything. Engine rebuilders (if necessary)? Comparatively few and far between these days, since engines last far longer than they used to, so you are going to struggle to find someone to do this - at any (considerable) cost. The only possibilities would be via. specialist classic car engine rebuilders - Google should come up with something if needed, but expect to pay well into four figures. Respray? If you are contemplating again spending four figure sums in this direction, then I would be approaching some local classic car owners and asking advice there. Body shops have generally developed into accident repair centres, allied to insurance companies, and they tend to turn away general full scale respray work on older vehicles, due to encountering the ‘unknown’. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Wayne. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Christopher, The owners handbook will be the correct place to reference. Do you have it to hand? If you don’t, then you would be wise to obtain a copy (EBay should lead you to one). There are looking-up references ( which I haven’t looked up, but you can) and again that should be worth looking into. My guess ( and a guess it is) is that the grade should be 5w/30 - fully synthetic. If so, I would be minded to use Quantum Longlife ( often sold on EBay) since this was/is a VAG recommended brand. Of course, filtration is equally important, and if not using a genuine VAG one, then the only aftermarket brands I would use would be from Mann or Bosch. Personally, I would avoid any ‘deal’ type purchases of oil-and-filter from certain large online retailers. The brands of filters were once respected - with the emphasis on ‘once’! Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well done Fernando, Now instead of finding a new motor, you can now find yourself a new friend! This one can seriously damage your wallet! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brian, Just an opinion - if you are going to allow this car to be pulled apart based on anything other than the described logical road test then I think you are letting yourself in for an ‘investigative’ bill. It would be great to know how you get on with this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Thanks for passing on your findings. Re. Trading Standards are now sorting it out - sounds great, but the days of the old local TS have long gone, and been replaced by a national centre which logs all complaints and may even issue you with reference numbers etc. Whether they have any obligation, or much intent, of keeping you updated on their findings/progress is another thing. Of course they may do, but personally, I would not hang my hat on the principle that ‘they are now going to sort it out’. Perhaps you can hopefully keep us posted on how you get on Chris. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Fernando, I really sounds to me that you have issues with the various linkages rather than the motor. I wouldn’t go off in a rush to buy another motor until everything else has been eliminated. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Fernando, It seems strange that your friend says the motor is dead, when the motor works to open the window. Personally, I would get a second opinion on this before attempting to buy a replacement motor. If the motor has failed, have you tried looking on EBay? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Daft question - perhaps? Are there two indicator bulbs per side by any chance? Some manufacturers do that, including brake light bulbs. OK, if not, then I would be looking at partial fractures of any of the individual wires of the flexible harness section which links from the body into the boot/ tailgate. Favourite place for issues - particularly in cold weather - due to years of flexing bu opening and closing. Kind regards, Gareth.

I really like the ...Boris’...plans ( should be in caps) bit Clive! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Chris, You are totally overthinking this, and in great danger of disappearing up a certain orifice! Simply work to a logic of elimination of simple and cheap investigations first. Carryout that investigation on a one step at a time basis, so that whatever is found to be at fault can be identified.- i.e. never carryout two investigations at the same time, or you won’t know which of the two was the issue. In your case, that means dosing one mount at a time. Am I too late to tell you that!? When you’ve tried that and it doesn’t work, then and only then, worry about what comes next. Let us know how you get on Chris. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, DIY work on air conditioning systems is really impractical, and indeed shouldn’t be undertaken since the gas should be correctly exhausted and stored only with specialised equipment. Simple checks for leaks etc. is neither expensive or time consuming, and should be left to the specialists. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, and apologies for the delay in coming back on this. It seems that you have now done way more than than the average DIYer would be capable of, and although you have improved the situation, then all is not as well as it should be. Personally, I now think it’s time to hand this problem over to the experienced automatic gearbox specialists who should have the necessary knowledge to advise you how to move forward with this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brian, ‘Got another puff of blue smoke after driving down hill...’ doesn’t convince me - by your description, that you have valve stem seal wear. Have you really carried out the procedure I outlined - with a following observer? You might (in caps) be correct in your diagnosis, but would I really want to go tearing an engine apart based on your latest description?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, The wait is nearly over then. Flat bottomed steering wheels and - because heated? I really wouldn’t think so. Just as an aside, and to prove there is very little which is revolutionary in the vehicle manufacturing industry:- The humble Allegro was introduced with a flat bottomed wheel when it was first launched during my I-had-hair-then period. They called it ‘Quartic’ and it was so maligned (particularly by the Police who used this model as Panda cars) that they quickly discontinued it. Now Audi marketing have turned it into a so called trendy must-have! Good isn’t it? Interestingly, Quartic wheel Allegros now command a premium. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Chris, Too much reading can destroy the logical thought process, and can damage your wallet! Aways worth eliminating the cheap and easy things first. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Are you sure it’s the power steering which is causing the noise? What you have already done would cast some doubt on that. Have you considered that the noise may be associated with the upper suspension mounts? May be worth injecti g some WD40 to see if that give some temporary easement of the noise. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Jill. Plenty of reading on the forum regarding this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Martin, Apologies- didn’t know you had been there tried that. Re-flashing/ programming at a specialist at the same time? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, As Cliff says - you will need to have this plugged in to detect which (probably one of the wheel) sensors is at fault. If it proves to be be a wheel sensor then I would only replace it with Bosch one if not using a genuine VAG replacement. Personally, I wouldn’t opt to get one where you will get the best so called ‘weekend discount’. If it is a wheel sensor, then they can be difficult to remove, so worth some releasing fluid application before hand. Again, you may find that replacing the offending sensor will only effect a temporary solution, and you might have to subsequently change the hub as well - which had an inbuilt weak magnet to signal the sensor. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issues. If this were mine, I would be tempted to opt for the gearbox oil to be change first to see if this eases or eliminates the issues. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Russell, Let’s hope other owners come along with their experiences. Of course, this has been a potential issue since the post war models of the 1950s, and has continued since, and often dictated the use of mud flaps - in many cases resulting in the deal sealing request to include a set of mud flaps, and mats in the new car deal. Just wondered if these are listed as optional extras for your model. Re. Previous owner and gravel drive? Wondered if you noticed this at the time you bought it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Neil, That’s great. I’m sure the photos will help potential buyers to better understand its condition. Hello Kev, ’nooooo don’t scrap it...’ Just incase there is any confusion, there wasn’t any suggestion to scrap it, but simply use the current scrap value in conjunction with the cost of all repairs, so that a potential buyer can work out the difference in buying this and spending on it, as opposed to buying an oven-ready, drive away example. That logic seems sound in my book. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Neil, I think your ‘honesty on enquiry’ principle is to be applauded, but if we are reading this correctly, it needs a total respray due to key damage and lacquer issues, and would appear ( recovered to garage) to have some current issue which results in it not been a going concern, and taking photos presents some difficulty. Can the garage take some photos of it for you? Re. value?? The known, and yet to be declared faults probably restricts its value to ‘ is it going cost far more than it’s worth to put it right...’? Probably yes. Not sure if this is going to assist in getting your mind around what - above scrap value - will be a realistic amount to accept, or expect someone to pay. Kind regards, Gareth.