Magnet

It should run at a steady 90 after a few minutes and shouldn’t fluctuate. Worth getting the thermostat renewed. Whether that would cure your coolant leak is very debatable, but you have to have the car running at its optimum temperature.

Any progress to report Alastair, so that we can hopefully close the thread off?

Any progress Alex?

Can see you have returned to the forum since the last post - so any answer to the question, so that we can close the thread - or not?

Seems to be a lot of assistive comments made on this thread, but not a lot of positive progress. Contributors seem to have reached a stage where repeating is all that can be done.

Possibly Jon, but worth an eliminating check. It’s always worth eliminating what you can. Sticky brakes on one or more wheels?? Worth jacking up each wheel in turn first thing in the morning and checking each wheel for any significant drag. Prior to that, you could try leaving the handbrake off overnight to assess whether that makes any difference. Regards, Gareth.

But you said it loses power over a few days - during with it spends a fair bit of the day sitting unused I guess. Any objection to taking it to Halfords for checking as suggested a number of times?

So long story short Andrew:- When you put (all of?) the 1 litre of supplied oil in, where is the level now showing on the dipstick on level ground first thing in the morning before starting the engine?

Engine mountings??

Welcome Andrew, and sorry to hear of your unacceptable issue. My logic points to it being highly unlikely that the car would have left the factory without the engine being (automatically) filled to the correct level with oil. Even if it had, then it would be very remiss to have missed this check on the P.D.I. What mileage did it have at the point of collection? So, what has happened to your engine oil in 174 miles over 6 days? Burnt it, or leaked it?? What oil have you used to top it up Andrew, and did you buy it ( given it?) from an Audi dealership? I must say, I would be very concerned if this were mine. Perhaps you could let us know what happens from here. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Marilyn, There is an understandable assumption that this battery is at fault for the reason I’ve already given, but an assumption it is, until proved to be sub-standard. As Cliff points out, checking the alternator output would be a very wise first move, before charging the battery and getting its overall efficiency checked on professional equipment. As mentioned, Halfords stores can do this and check the alternator output. If you respect your card, it would be wise to comeback to us before committing to buy. Another possibility is that the car is suffering from a parasitic drain, whereby some circuit/s are not shutting down, and discharging the battery. Summary:- test battery and alternator first, and report back and we can hopefully help you further. Regards, Gareth.

‘..hit the front end in bulk…’ Exactly what are you going to do/replace Reece? Surely the logical way forward would be to first get the car re inspected by the garage who changed the 2 arms and tie rod. If you don’t get a firm diagnosis of where the fault lies, then you are just going to be throwing parts at it in the hope of a resolution. Not a good policy. Regards, Gareth.

How frequently is the car used Marilyn?

I’m confused. ‘ECU beyond repair’…..’when I receive the clocks back’! So what exactly have you sent to ECU Testing?

Thanks Bob and welcome. But you have missed the point of ‘look-at-me-I’ve - got fancy-lights’ factor.

Hello Marilyn, What evidence do you have that the battery on this just within/ just outside warranty needs to be replaced? As you probably realise, Audi will charge you two arms and two legs, but there would be alternatives. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks, So what was the outcome of its stay with ATS that leads to the ECU being the suspect?

Any progress to report Michael?

Car gone back Tim?

Are you still with us Geoffrey?

Hello Irena, ’Thinking about changing the fuel pumps…… ECU…’ As has already been said - totally the wrong thing to do, and will result in seriously damaging your wallet and unlikely to guarantee to rectify the symptoms. Please, please get this plugged in to official (in caps) VAG diagnostics before moving on. Yes, I think most folks know that many new components have to be coded ( your term- calibrated) to the car after fitting. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ian, This really is down to personal choice and a discussion with your wallet. Will the more fancy lights make the car more appealing to you (in caps)? I would guess the answer to that will be no, since you won’t see them when you are driving, and do you really want to pay £1000 to try to impress whoever is driving behind you? If you are acquiring this on a PCP/ lease, it probably equates to £x/month extra, and it would be useful to know by how much it increases the ‘trade in’ estimated value at the end of the lease for your £1000 plus interest ‘investment’ -? Regards, Gareth.

I think this cracking is now far more of an issue than it had been previously - even with premium brand tyres. My experience with Michelin makes me think I might not bother to pay a premium for them in the future. Approx. 1.5 mm ‘loss’ of thread before you start represents quite a few miles of use! I’m now trialling mid-range Kumho tyres on our non-Audi, and other family member’s cars. Early days yet, but no disappointments so far.

Welcome Reece, I would add:- Don’t ignore checking and adjusting tyre pressures. Don’t ignore the affect of wear in rear suspension, resulting in a feeling of the ‘ tail wagging the dog’. Regards, Gareth.

Our humble little 2006 A3 has always run on Michelin - since new. A couple of observations noted when latest set fitted a year or so ago:- Thread depth at new was measured at little over 6.5mm. compared to near 8mm on earlier sets. ‘Grooves’ in threads now visibly wider than previous sets - so overall, less rubber for your extra money. Regards, Gareth.