Magnet

So, if it’s a faulty temperature sensor, are they going to renew it for you under warranty then?

How long are you going to keep it John and how many miles are you expecting to cover? I seriously doubt if any warranty would cover the damage caused by a belt failure.

Thanks Chris, but ‘the clutch went out’ doesn’t tell us anything.

See my response against your other post of a similar issue.

Hello John, I think you are barking up wrong trees to consider a dealership would inspect a belt ( and assembly) at intervals to ensure it is still serviceable. Reality is they don’t, and highly likely won’t. The reaction you are going to get is that it’s now not scheduled for replacement until 125k miles ( or whatever it is - without looking back). That dictate is either followed, or the belt and assembly is renewed at 5 years or c75K miles, whichever comes first. That decision (and risk) rests with the owner. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, You will certainly need 3 part clutch kit, and may well need to replace the flywheel - all of which is not cheap. Due to the work involved, it would be unwise to just change one particular component. You don’t tell us what the current symptoms are so it’s impossible for us to differentiate between hydraulic or mechanical components being at fault. Regards, Gareth. p.s. Recommended brand for replacement parts would be LUK -if available where you are.

Welcome John from the Homeland. Shortest route to obtaining the information you want, is to do a forum search on ‘Cambelt’ and/or ‘Timing belt’ selecting ‘Everywhere’ from the drop down menu. Please come back to us once you have read and digested the dialogue - armed with service history, how long owned and how long you intend to keep it etc. We can then colour in whatever additional detail you need to make your decision. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Jay, Rather confusing, but first back to basics- check oil level on these only when the engine is cold. By using this procedure, you are comparing like for like levels. If this were mine, I would be checking the current oil level on level ground first thing in the morning after the car has been standing overnight ( obviously before starting). If it remains above the max. line then drain off the excess to get it back to the line. Then start the car, and check for any oil leaks. Obviously check coolant as well before starting. You will now be starting from a level playing field, and be better equipped to investigate the smoke situation. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Anthony, You don’t have to concern yourself to any degree regarding the ins and outs, and reasons why with this under-warranty vehicle has an issue. Appreciating this has already been said, but your sole responsibility is to make contact with a dealership, book it in, explain the symptoms, and request ‘ Fix it please’ - ASAP. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Alex, Your last post is a prime example of asking a question, but not revealing the reason for asking that question. For what it’s worth, I concur with the majority of posts already made ( exception - E10 attracts (in caps) moisture to a greater extent than E5). Anyway Alex, no brainier, if your car returns more MPG for your E5 fill, it’s simple economics of whether that increase justifies the increase cost over E10. Regards, Gareth. p.s. I only use E5 in garden machinery for the reasons give.

That’s very kind of you James. Just the sort of interchange that will be of benefit to the forum. Regards, Gareth.

Any update on this Mark? Such updates will be of help to others in the future.

Thanks James, that’s great to hear. Could you do us a kindness and keep us updated on progress. This updating will hopefully be helpful to others in your situation in the future. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Moises, but you are still not answering the crucial question I asked yesterday.

Was the timing belt changed at an Audi dealership?

Hello Matt, If it were, I would entrust this assessment to an auto electrician. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Scott, You posted your plea for help, received it, but not bothered to return to read and react to it. Do you intend to do so?

Welcome Peter, Have you removed them and want to refit them, or is there another reason for asking - such as being overtightened? This used to be listed in the handbook - either in glovebox, or now available to download, but I would suggest 110N/m until you have written evidence. No associated spacer fitting? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Moises, Exactly what does this quote cover, and who is it from? How many alternative quotes have you sought for the same job? Regards, Gareth.

So is the VIN plate………. as asked?

Welcome James, If all the ducks aren’t in a row for DVLA, then they will run you ragged - as you are now finding out! Not wishing to make things worse, but expect to find another hurdle close down the line once you eventually sorted this out! I dealt with them in a capacity of ‘DVLA Adviser’ for a Classic car club for a couple of decades prior to Covid, and I understand it’s a lot worse now. My advice was to never to buy a car without paperwork - too late for you! Can I take it the car has an original legible VIN plate securely attached with original fixings? If so, you should eventually get a reg. no. If it doesn’t then you can kiss goodbye to any chance of a reasonable rough paths to success. Build record/ year of manufacture? Simple route first - go along ( don’t phone) to your local Audi dealer armed with VIN and talk with the Parts Dept. Long shot chance, but eliminate it. Join a German Audi ‘classic car’ club, and get them on board to deal with Audi Germany for you. They are more likely to get some degree of success than you are. Approach FBHVC and seek their advice. They can act with advice and liaison with DVLA - probably at a price. Some possible avenues to go down, so please let us know how you get on. One thing to bear in mind is, when DVLA closed their LVL offices, such matters were handed over to the Kit and Rebuild Section at DVLA, so you can guess the logic of treating any unknown as being a ‘ bitser’. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Gary, Your call, but I wouldn’t post photos on this open-to-all website with registration numbers still visible - not blanked out. Regards, Gareth.

For what it’s worth:- Our humble 2006 A3 has been in the family from new, and I used to get all parts for it from a Skoda dealer up North at very much discounted prices compared to the same part from Audi. This went on for years and I recall the dealer used to win Parts supplier of the year awards. Then it stopped! Seems VAG wanted an extortionate amount of money annually to continue to supply the computerised cross reference numbers, brand to brand, Good isn’t it. As I understand it ( and I’m open to contra opinion) the trade discount on genuine Audi parts ex. dealers is now only 7%. Having said that, our Halfords club discount card now only entitles us to 7% off. Wow y! I guess in reality, the garages have to add more to the labour costs to make up for the shortfall on parts. We end up paying again. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Pip, I think (in caps) there is only one O ring, and that wasn’t supplied with the one for my 2006 1.6, so it seems you are lucky! More than one needed? Proof positive is to ring the Parts Section at the dealer you bought it from, and they will confirm/ refute. Regards, Gareth. Next best option would be to look up LLL Parts website.

Hello Paul, If it were mine, I would be listing it on EBay with a starting price of the scrap value you have been offered ( or can seek).Yes, you maybe messed around a bit, but someone might save it, and there little to lose except a week of time. Regards, Gareth.