Magnet

Hello Rick from the Homeland, If it were mine, I would keep it away from mechanics armed with spanners and other wallet emptying devises until you let us know if the car blows out any (generally white) smoke when the engine is revved to around 2000rpm - and held at that for around 2 mins - when hot. Simple things first:- carefully look around the engine and cooling system for any signs of red deposits (assuming OAT coolant is in use). When you have done that and perhaps failed to see any evidence of a leak, remove the undertrsy if possible, and clad the floor where the car is parked with cardboard or similar and leave overnight ( placing the cardboard there as soon as the car is parked up after a run). Any significant leaks will obviously cause damp patches on the cardboard. Also carefully inspect the radiator core for evidence of staining. A worth-a -try 'investment' would be to replace the coolant reservoir cap with a new one - not off E what's it, but from the VAG dealer! If all of the above fail to find the answer then there are other non-dismantling tests which can be carried out to try to find the source of the coolant usage. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, If it's one thing I gain from reading your diary is that I'm grateful for retirement - and I'm still trying to find out what that is suppose to be! As I see it, you are going to meet yourself coming back! I find that generally people 'excuse' the words of the more elderly, and think 'he's old, bless him! , so thinking twice about what to say seldom comes into it anymore. Anyway, excuse me if it causes any grief, but wouldn't it be far more polite to refer to your wife/partner/whatever, as her name - Caz - rather than 'She' as in the opening of the last two posts? We used to refer to the definition of 'She', as the cat's mother! Anyway Peter, grizzle over. I just have to resign myself to sitting down after reading your posts now, otherwise I get giddy. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, As you probably realise, 7 years standing means new tyres, renewing brake fluid and checking systems, before any other expenditure and deterioration work is undertaken. Totting that up, probably means there isn't much left for profit, if you bought it to pass on, as I guess was the intention, otherwise it would just be a question of you recommissioning it and enjoying it. If it were mine, I would not be breaking it, since this is hard work, and you are always left to clear the unwanted bits. Of course Martin, we don't know what the condition of this car is, what you paid for it, and what your longer term plan was for it, so it's rather difficult to advise. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, I'm not sure about the detail of your particular model, but it's not uncommon for many makes and models to suffer not-the-best wiper arrangements in right hand drive form. I believe ( and leaving it open to correction) that worldwide, something like 80%? plus of vehicle production is to cater for a left hand drive set up, and as such you may find that if you sit in the passenger seat! the wiper set up may be far more acceptable. Daft I know, but economics matter, and I am pretty sure that all new car design development starts from a LHD concept, and if they can - for example- harmonise the wiper set up, then that is what they will do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Doug, This car will be on an 'intelligent' charging system, and as I understand it, ordinary battery chargers cannot be used to charge the battery. Solar charger with ( I guess) very low charging currents suitable?? I don't know, and I think you are wise to check on this, and if it were mine I would be seeking some specialist advice. A better route would be to invest in a the latest 'intelligent' charger - not cheap as I understand, but cheaper than messing up the car - and plugging this in via a timer - assuming the car is indoors. When you say you have work commitments for 3 to 4 months, does that man that you cannot get to the car at any time during that period? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, I wouldn't claim that this is the cause in your case, but such issues can result from problems with the wiring harness as it passes from the body into the boot/hatchback. Problems arise since with continued opening and closing, the wires within this flexible section of the harness become hard and brittle and eventually lead to intermittent contact problems. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Luke, You need to establish from them whether the two low cylinders are adjacent to one another. If so, this could be a head gasket issue - if not, then obviously there is something else wrong. Also bought two years ago:- From the same Audi dealer? Another Audi dealer? Somewhere else? Full main dealer service history prior to you buying it? Servicing during the last two years - where and when? This evidence is likely to be critical in any 'good will' contribution dealings with Audi UK. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Luke, Sorry to hear of your problems. To some extent, it is difficult to follow Audi Belfast's logic by claiming that the engine itself is at fault, unless they have carried out some 'basic' engine mechanical checks and advised you of the results. To try to keep it concise and simply, a new engine might be reasonable advice if they have carried out a compression test on all cylinders and found one in more to be low. If so, then they can let you know the readings. Assuming the compressions are reasonably correct, then I would be carrying out an oil pressure test to check if the engine's lubrication system is serviceable or not. If they haven't carried out these basic tests and are advising an engine strip down is necessary to find out what is wrong, then personally I would not have much faith in them, and would get the car transported to a reputable independent for a second opinion before making any decision. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alex from the Homeland. If it were mine, I would be making some enquiries with the folks who remapped it for you. Glow plugs? Highly unlikely I would have thought, since they only assist cold starting. Kind regads, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Well worth following Steve's suggestion. Has it been the rainy season in Trinidad? Not really very up on this, but does this earlier version have a body control unit (BCU)? If so it might well be worth checking the connections onto this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Oh blinking heck Peter - I feel for you. That's about as open ended as it could be! I think that would test my loyalty towards this engined vehicle, and even towards the brand. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Scott, Now you are testing the memory, but I recall many many years ago having a similar issue when fitting a replacement Pioneer radio cassette in our then BMW. In that case it was something to do with a lack of connection to ((I think) a aerial signal booster for fm. Of course, this may not apply in your case since the BMW s were not fitted with a standard radio/cassette at the time. Having said all of that, my guess is that it's to do with a supply connection which needs to be made. Sorry this is vague, but it may lead you in a search (on other forums?) which will solve the issue for you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Logic would point to :- If the noise was not there before you changed the components, then it's highly likely its associated with the fitting of the new bits. Eliminate the simple things first. I would start with removing one of the new plugs and carefully comparing it with the ones you took out - particularly in terms of the reach of the plug (length of thread and electrode). Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Hazel, OK, bucket and sponge. Bang goes my theory of acid contamination of the discs/pads then - unless hubby uses spray-on wheel cleaner when he washes it. If it were mine, I think I would insist on having new pads fitted, and the discs thoroughly cleaned up. Chances of getting Audi to do that under warranty?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back Hazel. You didn't tell us how the car is washed. It may be thought to be a daft question, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Linda, Can we take it you have tried Audi dealers, but not had any success due to the car's age? Even if you have made some enquiries there, it may be worth popping in (again?) ,and asking if they have a system whereby they can check (older on the shelf) stock at all dealers. Obviuosly getting the gearbox oil should not be an issue. Cambelt :- excuse my ignorance, but does this engine run on a belt or does us run on a chain? If a belt, Google 'Gates cambelts' and this should lead you to a UK Technical contact for their belts. In my opinion, these are the best aftermarket belts you will get, and I'm sure they will point you to their part number for the kit you need, then you can approach local motor factors, or on line ones, to check availability. One potential issue:- cambelts are changed on a mileage and age basis, and the age may be as little as 5 years. Question:- how do you know how old the 'new' belt is that you are buying to fit? Already over 5 years old?? Worth asking Gates how you would know - from a batch number? Last point:- it's always worth changing the main (serpentine) drive belt - and its tensioner - at the same time. Ask Gates for the part no. for that as well. Please come back again if you are still stuck. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Might be worth a trip down to Jack Smiths in Swansea - not far from the Guildhall. They have been doing trimming and hoods from the time I had hair. Seem to have some good reviews via. the MX5 followers. Hope this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

Simple and basic things first Danny, Check the gearbox oil level, and even consider changing it, to ensure the grade is correct. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tara, Tommy's got a good point. If that fails, and moving the battery is the only option, then I would be tempted to go to a trusted local garage who will have a simple device which links a slave battery into your system usually via. the cigarette lighter or similar point. The existing battery an then be removed and the surrounding area cleaned. No need to ensure you have the codes etc. if it's done this way. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Hazel, Silly me - electronic handbrake! If noise alters when the steering turns then there is a stronger possibility that the noise originates from the front wheels rather than the back. Can we take it you don't get any noise when moving forward slowly? Sorry about additional questions, but full information is king:- During your two and a half months of ownership, how often has the car been washed, and what method has been used to clean it? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Hazel, Well, ..." static friction is bigger than the dynamic friction..." I really like that! For friction please leave the 'r' out and subsititue ''fiction' . This car is trying to tell you something, and you are right to be concerned that it isn't as it should be. Apart from the above!? , there could be a number of valid reasons. Could you report back on the effects on the noise of the following:- When reversing and the noise is present, gently (in caps) apply the handbrake to one or two notches. When reversing and the noise is present, turn the steering wheel slightly from side to side. Probably daft and unnecessary to advise only going this when there is plenty of room around you and it's safe to do so. Kind regards, Gareth.

Completely agree with the different slant on it Piotr. The 'free' length of the new spring before fitting will obviously be longer than its compressed (car weight on it) length when fitted - as you are now saying. Then it will largely stay the same, and drop only under increased load. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well done Mannie, Strange things happen then. Marvellous. Without reading back on all the posts, I seem to recall you would have bought this 8 year old car from a non franchised car sales ( not Audi dealer - due to age?). So some (OK understandanly annonomous) Audi dealer is contributing 40% of the bill, VAG 50%, and the actual supplying car sales - any?%? Most interesting result. Mileage as a matter of interest Manni? Any interesting history? As I say, I think you've done extremely well, and obviously dealt with this in a first class manner. Mrs. May could do with you! Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry to contradict Piotr, but why should these new springs compress within one month? They are designed to take the maximum recommended loads over a period of years of service, and unless they are constantly highly loaded, will remain substantially as they are for a long time. By your logic, if you measure the ride heights of all - say demonstrator Audis on the forecourt , they will ride lower than the ones just driven into the showroom. Um? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Anamul, Wouldn't be sure, but sometimes the Park isolator switch can become worn, and although the lever is in Park, the switch may not be properly 'made'. You've probably done this, but try wiggling the selector lever when in Park to see if this does anything for the message. Kind regards, Gareth.