Magnet

Should be alright with those then Dan. Always difficult to try to help from afar with this sort of thing. Clutching at straws here, and no doubt you have checked:- Bottom suspension pans at rear OK? Very prone to rust and weakening. Quite a lot of links on the back, and all with rubber bushes. Was rear wheel camber checked and adjusted via eccentric bolt? Daft question, but tyre pressures set to book and reputable tyre brands for new tyres? Your symptoms sound like the tail is wagging the dog, as we used to say. Regards, Gareth.

That’s great Lulu, Sorry for more questions, but are the two (V oriented) control arms with track rod end type joints, anchored into the vertical link? And if so - how? Since this bolt is known on You Tube to be troublesome to remove , and there is reference to a ‘Removal tool’, doesn’t it indicate what this tool looks like, where you can get it? If the bolt is tapped/pressed out of the link, is there sufficient room for it come out without it contacting the inner wing? Apologies for not answering the specific question, but…. I take it the ‘weight’ has to be taken out of the vertical link due to the action of the coil spring. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Lulu, It would be useful if you could identify ( by photo would be great) the exact location of this ‘pinch’ bolt, and what issues are you expecting with its removal with the correct tools and a prior application of a good dose of Plusgas? Regards, Gareth.

This is the sort of job any local garage would be able to do for you. Costing?? , but part cost would be available from Audi. Might come as part of a larger housing, but sorry, don’t know on your car. On an 11 year old vehicle I would generally recommend using aftermarket parts, but in the case of thermostats, I would suggest you insist on a main dealer part, due to the not-infrequent issues with aftermarket ones - regrettably, I don’t know who manufactures these for VAG, so cannot suggest an aftermarket supplier. Unless you are buying the part, and getting a local garage to fit it, be wary of what they may fit - there can be a lot of rubbish associated with so called OEM brands, so if you hear this - beware. Regards, Gareth.

I feel that’s now enough prompting prior to warning the poster. If you do read this Tanya, please read ‘New Members - please read before posting’.

What make shock absorbers did you fit Dan? Perhaps rather than wading in and renewing any bushes, it would probably be well worth giving them a couple of coats of inspection before doing anything else. Regards, Gareth.

Insufficient ‘test drive’ distance for any readings to be meaningful. Please repeat towards the end of at least a continuous 5 mile run.

Welcome Chris, This does seem very odd, and I can’t think of a logical explanation. Having said what you have about the driver’s door, it might be well worthwhile checking the wiring within the flexible harness twixt A post and door frame - a common point for fractures. Apologies, but this is only aimed at eliminating this area as the source of the problem. Regards, Gareth.

Dave, Any particular reason to repeat (some 49 mins ago), a post you made 21 hrs ago? I think it’s now high time William is left to make up his own mind - which it seems he has already done. Based on this, I feel we should thank you for your contribution towards this thread, and now lock it.

So how long into your journey were these readings taken? Bit confused by the ‘1 mile journey home’.

Many thanks Dave, but I think it’s now time to agree to disagree on this thread. Regards, Gareth.

Thank you for your views Dave, and I think the logic of my advice is clearly indicated by the answer you have given to my question. No one, but no one, should be advised to fiddle with car electrics without having an experienced person at his side to oversee what is being done, unless they are experienced in doing so. Any other advice would not be in his best interest, or the forum’s. I really don’t feel I can usefully add any further comment s to this thread.

Hello ‘Nmcc’, Notice you have returned to the forum and will be aware of my latest post, so could you please now advise us whether you are going to amend your name or not.

Hello Dave, But the OP has stated ‘he is a complete numpty with cars and knows absolutely nothing’ . Acid test question:- so would you let him wire a dashcam into your car? I’m not forming any judgement on William’s abilities, beyond what he has stated, and I still hold by my earlier advice, which I believe to be sound in this case. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Simon, and very sorry to hear of this major issue. Stating the obvious, this is totally unacceptable, and it’s highly unlikely that anyone else would have experienced this problem. Would I take it to France tomorrow even if they were able to conduct some form of repair? Definitely no. As a matter of interest, is this a brand new vehicle or a pre registered earlier 2025 example. If pre registered, who was it registered to? I’m sorry we can’t help you with this Simon, but we certainly would be interested in how this pans out, and offer some support going forward- if you need it. Regards, Gareth.

Hello William, Please do yourself a favour and stay at least a car’s length away from attempting to wire a dashcam on your car - by your own description of your abilities - disaster looms if you don’t. Apologies for stating it as it is, but it’s said in your our best interest. Regards, Gareth.

The vast majority of members on here, state their proper name rather than choose to remain anonymous, which obviously allows a more personal interchange. Let me ask you a connected question:- Would you feel you could walk into a Citizens Advice Bureau, ask for legal associated advice, and not be prepared to disclose your name? Your choice - whoever you are - and the forum retains its right to deal with that situation, once you have made your decision. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks, Could you please amend your name at this stage?

We await the outcome then. Please let us know how you get on.

Um. Seems like the thermostat and water are going to be changed then.

Thanks Russel, You did mention the principles of your last paragraph, but you are yet to confirm how much above 90 it gets, and whether you have indeed monitored the running temperature via your OBD.

Apologies for jumping in on this Nmcc ( could you amend this to your proper name please), but I feel the advice you have been offered is both sound and logical. ‘Thanks I may go down that road..,’ suggests you would ideally like to go down another avenue -? The simple fact is you bought this misrepresented car from a dealer, so your redress starts and rests there. As I see it, only after you fail to get the resolution you want, would you need to extend your discontent to other organisations - unless you want a fight at this stage! Perhaps you would be kind enough to amend your profile, and let us know how you get on with your quest to get this resolved. Regards, Gareth.

It has been suggested that we should be ‘extra nice’ to non responding members rather than warning them after posting a prompt to them to respond. It might work with some, but it doesn’t seem to work in your case, so any valid reason why we should keep prompting you Tanya?

Hello Russell, I could well be wrong, but I cannot see the logic of a generally static running temperature of 90 degrees C with a slight occasional increase ( exactly how much?), being the cause of your issue, so I would move forward very tentatively with this. Is your OBD capable of monitoring running temperatures? If so, this would be something I would carryout before going to any expense. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tyler, Checking batteries with a multimeter is a meaningless test. You need to get the battery efficiency check on professional equipment which test other parameters apart from static voltage. Halfords stores will normally do that. If substandard, then it would be advantageous to let us know rather than buying a battery at that stage. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth