Magnet

Hello Roger, Obviously you require brake pads for RS5, and I’m unclear about why the reference to the RS4 -? If it were mine, I would be entering your registration number into Parts in Motion website and obtaining listings a selection of various brands. In case it helps, I’m currently favouring Brembo. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

For what it’s worth, I would be surprised if this was fuel filter associated.

Notice you have revisited the forum, so are you going to come back to us with the requested answers, or an acknowledgement in principle on the advice you asked for?

Any progress Dermot?

Any answers Frank?

Any answers to the most recent post Jax?

Are you going to come back to us Jon?

Any update on this?

Can we take it was a one owner car when you purchased it? If so, it has been correctly maintained by the previous owner. I think you are very wise to change the oil and filter at 6K intervals - some may claim ‘over serviced’ but… Back to oil grade. I would strongly advise you to stick with the recommended viscosity grade, and to confirm the brand you use meets the VAG specification within that grade. In case it helps:- I always use VAG’s brand -Quantum ( albeit, my grade requirement is 5w/30) usually available from reputable EBay suppliers. I use Mann or Bosch filters, renewing the oil filter every oil change, and the air filter every year in your case. Regards, Gareth.

I’m very pleased it’s sorted too, but I must say it as I see it:- If the original thermostat was obtained via TPS, then I think it would be far less likely than it was to be faulty. Possible explanation - first one fitted might have been a Brand X aftermarket, and the second one was ex TPS. Not that it makes any difference, but even going back into the 70s aftermarket thermostats were of variable quality, and probably the first component to suffer from quality issues. Now it’s quite common for new components to be of dubious quality. Not wishing to engage in trumpet blowing, but I thought I solved this, rather than Marc!

Pirelli Scorpions Anthony? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Slawomir, If Ow/20( and I haven’t checked) is the specified oil grade for your engine, why would you want to deviate from that? You say the 5 year old 30 K mile car is due for service, at what intervals has it been serviced in the past, and what is your current annual mileage? Regards, Gareth.

Hello David. I could be wrong, but I think your continued suspicion that it’s the starter motor maybe illogical. Large current draws are often associated with discharging back through a faulty alternator, but…. Bluetooth issue?? Would have to be a blinking big molar tooth!

I think you now need more sophisticated diagnostics since it would be difficult to say whether it’s the coolant temperature sensor is signalling incorrect readings to the ECU, or whether the ECU is at fault. Regards, Gareth.

Very odd, since you said before fitting the new battery, the draw was only 50mA - which is what it should be. Now you have fitted a new battery it’s 1.4 amps, which it was when you started. Different story all together. What’s this damaged and glued together plug you mention? Not quite sure why you disconnected the starter for this overnight test. Did you also disconnect the alternator? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Manjinder, You will need to tell us what year band you are considering and what bad experiences are you hearing about. Regards, Gareth.

I think I might be right too! - that’s why I suggested it. ’xxxx if I know how I get round that one’-? ‘Simples’ as our little standie up friends would say - take it back to whoever you paid to do it - as said. Please let us know how you get on.

Hello Richard, I don’t think there separate clips at the locations photographed - I believe the bumper has its own plastic protrusions which clip into corresponding slots in the arch. Possibly broken on dismantling and not repaired via. plastic welding before spraying/refitting. Sounds like a trip back to whoever did the work for you. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

William. You posted your plea for advice on this critical issue, but have not found time to return to read it. It is important to you and other road users around you that you do, so I am sending you a PM to alert you to view the advice you asked for. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks John, I have removed your phone number since this is an open forum.

It means that the fuel mixture is too rich for the temperature.

Welcome Oskar, I would think there should be a coolant temperature sensor on it, which signals the correct mixture to the ECU dependent on coolant temperature. Affected by ambient? Does it smell of excess petrol when it does start? You could try E5 rather than E10. Regards, Gareth.

Sorry to add to your burden, but if you are involved in an accident, prior to this problem being sorted, your insurance may be declared null and void.

Welcome William, I think the answer is simple:- Do not drive the car until it’s been plugged in to diagnose the problem, and then having that problem corrected. Yes, members could suggest it could be this/that, but guesses they would be, and you could get the suggested parts renewed, with a hope it sorts it, but….. I think the forum must repeat - get this investigated and repaired ASAP. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on William. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Tom, My advice would be not to fiddle with this new car, but to return it to the/a main dealer and get it corrected under warranty.OK, a 50 mile trip ( no one nearer?). You have invested a lot of funds in this vehicle, so surely it’s worth a day of your time. I think I might know what is wrong with it, but… Regards, Gareth.