cliffcoggin

You could test the idea if you have a spare wheel with a different brand of tyre. Change each wheel in turn to see if the noise disappears. If you don't have a spare wheel then I guess you either have to live with the noise or spend a lot of money on new tyres that match the old ones. Given that I can not hear the hum you mention I can not comment on it, but in my experience bearing noise is very different to tyre noise.

I can't hear anything untoward, but that's not unusual. Most of the audio recordings sent to the forum supposedly have an odd noise that nobody except the owner can hear. The usual culprit for strange humming noises like you describe is the tyres. Not because they are necessarily defective, but because the tread pattern interacts badly with some road surfaces. Have you changed the tyres recently? Have the roads on your normal routes been resurfaced recently?

Does that mean you were not given the service history by Audi when you purchased it?

Only it it is any good, and you won't know that unless you get it tested, in which case you might as well get the fitted battery tested. Let me emphasise that simple voltage readings from a multimeter will not tell you if the battery is in good condition. A battery can show over 12 volts and yet have internal faults that can interfere with the delicate electronics of the car causing a variety of seemingly unrelated symptoms, one of those symptoms being a lack of error codes on low quality OBD readers. Until you get the battery tested we can not eliminate it as the cause of the starting problem.

Ouch. That's an expensive repair, and very surprising on a 4 year old car. Has it had a hard life, or the oil levels neglected perhaps?

Not necessarily. Instrument clusters are known to suffer failures which may be unrelated to the starting fault, hence my question about cranking from a jump start, and emphasises Magnet's request for detailed information. So far I think we are left with many possibilties that include: starter motor/wiring, ECM fault, defective battery.

Glad to hear the problem is solved and that you don't need yet another starter motor.

That does not answer the question of whether the jump start cranked the engine.

"Engine failure" could mean anything from a broken ignition wire to complete seizure of the engine, and therefore tells us nothing meaningful. I suggest you get the car to a garage to have the problem diagnosed.

Grant. Did the engine turn over when you tried to jump start it? Rather than push the car to a garage why not call out a mobile mechanic and get him to test the battery, which is the most likely problem? 12 volts is too low for a battery in good condition.

I doubt it Richard. Any significant modification usually invalidates the warranty, whether it is related to the problem or not. For your sake I'd be glad to be proved wrong.

I think it safe to say that we shall not hear from Martin again on this topic, so I shall stop following it.

That burnt cable would certainly explain the starting problem. I hope your mechanic is going to renew the cable rather then just wrapping bit of tape around it, and then secure the cable with a clip so that it does not flop around and wear the insulation off.

Thank you. One day somebody will bless you for that information.

Beware of cheap units on Ebay and the like. They sometimes do not come with the appropriate wiring adaptors and connections, so unless you are knowledgable and competent in such things I suggest you get the job done by a professional. There is a company in one of the back streets of Rochester I would recommend if I could remember its name.

Glad to hear you got it running. It might help others in a similar position if you would tell us some details of the Hall Effect sensor you bought. Part number, description, vendor, price etc.

A vacuum reservoir of the size shown would be hard to miss. If you don't see one perhaps it's because you don't have one. I didn't on mine.

Copyright protection.

The clicking noise usually comes from the starter solenoid which you have not mentioned yet. Has it been checked?

Please do. In the meantime I shall release your other query that I hid pending a reply here.

Jack, was the above reply of any use to you? I know you have seen it.

Having just watched a few videos on the matter I now appreciate the problem of the foam detaching from the lining. The orange foam looks very like the stuff used in upholstery that crumbles and degrades as it ages.

Fair enough. I wondered at the possibilty of staining. Can't say I like the the use of staples either. They look !Removed! awful.

If the headlinings are normally glued in place as Richard says, I wonder if it is possible to inject glue through the lining at selected spots using a syringe with a wide bore needle. It would need a non staining low viscosity glue and one would have to find the right points at which to inject, but if it works it would save the effort of removing the lining. I have no idea if it would work as I have only just dreamed up the idea. Any opinions Richard?

Tony. There is a fellow associated with this forum who pops up ocassionally and offers insurance. Adrian Flux or something similar is the name. I know nothing of him.