cliffcoggin

If your car has a CCS connector you can charge almost anywhere, because CCS has become the dominant charge point connection, invariably with a tethered cable. Type 2 is nearly extinct, while Chaedemo is not far behind.

Cian. I have merged your latest topic with your previous one on the identical topic. Did you read Sid2020's comments?

It will depend on what you pay for electricity and petrol which varies across the country, and also changes with time. I did the calculation a year ago when motorway electricity prices were an extraordinary 83 pence per kWh, which made the electric fuel cost equivalent to petrol. Given that I run an electric car solely for economic reasons I refuse to pay those prices and only charge at home with electricity costing 16 pence per kWh, a fifth of the motorway cost.

Does your mechanic not know how to test a wheel bearing? In essence you jack the wheel up clear of the ground. Roll it while listening for a rumbling or grinding sound, then rock it side to side feeling and listening for movement. Having changed the F/N/S bearing two years ago it's likely the other side needs to be changed.

Check the battery voltage. It is less than 12.4 volts it then needs to be professionally tested, along with the alternator, because it may be dying.

I guess, and it is only a guess, is that the indicator click is from an electric sounder of some sort, rather than the noise of a relay as used to be the case years ago. In theory therefore it should be possible to make an electric amplifier or fit a louder sounder. I have never come across such a thing so it would be worth your while researching availability.

Good luck with the switch. I suspect they are scarce for an 18 year old car.

Ah, I had not noticed the age of the car. We take for granted that all seat backs tip forward nowadays.

The one symptom that stands out to me is the key becoming hot. That can only be caused by a high resistance at one of the switch contacts, and may be responsible every other symptom. I suggest you get the ignition switch replaced or repaired as the first step.

Please let us know the outcome. If your local garage does not understand or have the equipment for coding take the car elsewhere.

It is common for the EGR cooler to lose coolant into the engine. It's an expensive fix.

After another visit by you Roger to the forum since my question yesterday we still have no response. I guess you don't really want any assisstance and we have wasted our time responding. O well, goodbye.

Coding means matching the battery to the car's charging system so that it gets charged at the correct rate and to the right limit. It's a "feature" of modern cars that was unecessary years ago when cars did not have the delicate electronics that are present now. Coding is done with a computer gadget such as VCDS via the car's OBD diagnostic port. Skip the coding and you may damage the battery. A defective or dying battery can not store as much power as a new one, even though a simple no load voltage test may show 12.4 volts. You can get away with a weak battery much of the time when conditions are favourable, but the onset of winter always reveals the weakness because the power requirements at low temperatures are much greater. This time of year we always get a flood of queries about poor starting and other electrical problems which in many cases are because the battery is dying, which is why we have suggested getting the battery and alternator tested professionally.

Please do.

I was not aware that automatic transmissions had dual mass flywheels. Are you sure it has a DMF?

I have changed the title.

I knew cost cutting at Audi was extensive, but did not realise oil, air, and water were now extras in new cars.

A defective battery will not hold a charge, so that could be the explanation for the problem, so why not get it tested before shelling out over a hundred pounds for a new one. And as Steve said, if a new one is needed ensure it is coded to the car. It would also be worth getting the alternator tested at the same time.

Sorry, I have no idea of where it is located or how to change it. Perhaps another member can help.

It's likely the air flap motor is faulty on passenger side.

Any answers for us Roger? I see you visited the forum four hours ago.

Try it with 12 volts.

Advice? Simple. Take it to the dealership to get the "service due" light turned off.

Was it not possible to enter the boot from the cabin by tipping the rear seats forward?

Thanks for letting us know. Be glad the water did not leak into the cabin, it would have permanently stained the head lining.