cliffcoggin

Sorry to mislead. What I meant to say was run the washer pump (which is actually under the bonnet) and watch the rear wiper motor and the pipe that runs through it. It is the seals in the wiper motor that often fail.

Was my reply of any help to you Martin?

Given that I can not see which warning light you refer to, I can not advise.

If the car is less than three years old the original guarantee may still be valid, however your signature line shows it be four years old.

Which warning light is showing? Pads? Handbrake? Fluid level? ABS? Brake lights? Look in your handbook.

This is worse than drawing teeth. I give up, and leave it to you Gareth.

Tanzeel. You are only giving us part of the story. Without more detail any diagnosis is going to be incomplete and slow in coming, so how about you tell us more of the background to the problem? Also please reveal how you tested the compression, and where you can feel air coming out?

Do please let us know if you solve the problem.

Thank you Carl. A pity it took a warning to get that response. Whether the mirrors will need coding, or if OBD11 will do the job I do not know.

Possibly the original subscription has expired and you need to buy another.

John. I think you will find that roof mounted driving lights are illegal. There are limits to how high and low such lights may be placed, though I don't know the detalis off hand.

John. Do yourself a favour, throw your meter in the rubbish bin, and then get the battery and alternator professionally tested. Until you can prove that the battery and alternator are in good condition any warning light or message is likely to be false. A defective battery can easily be responsible for all the map and radio problems your car is suffering.

Sean. To add to Magnet's comment, and to answer your question, yes the matrix is part of the coolant system. To use an electrical analogy it is in parallel not in series if that means anything to you. In other words you can have perfectly good flow in the part that keeps the engine cool, but no flow through the matrix part.

Told you so. It is now standard practice for Audi to deny all responsibility and deny all warranty claims for all defects. What was once a prestigious car brand is now a maker of shoddy unreliable junk. O how the mighty are fallen!

Does that mean the engine now starts and the lights work properly?

I seem to recall many similar or related problems to recent models reported in these forums, so it would be worth spending an hour reading them. I know that's not much help, however my car precedes such electrickery so I did not take a lot of notice and can not point you directly at the appropriate topics.

As you wish Michael, but I can state that a simple multimeter voltage reading is useless in determining the condition of a battery. Only a deep discharge test under a heavy load will reveal internal faults, hence my suggestion of a professional test. See this: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249

Harley. It's no surprise that dealers don't have the switch, and if breakers also don't I reckon your only chance is Ebay. You may find an individual breaking that particular model, or maybe somebody in China is making a clone. If you can not buy a switch it may be possible to repair the existing switch if you are handy with tools. If the metal contacts are burnt or damaged you have a chance; if plastic components are broken you have no chance.

Not that I know of, but be aware that a faulty alternator can drain a battery so it needs to be tested.

I think we can assume that the repair was successful as ECU Testing are a reputable company. That leaves battery and alternator as prime suspects.

Andrew. Thanks for an unusually clear explanation. Yes, the driver's door lock is the master that controls the others, so that should be the first thing to sort out. Damaged wires between door and frame are a common problem. Most often the fault affects the driver's door as that one gets the most use, but it will be necessary to examine all the doors and boot wiring as they all suffer insulation cracking. It is possible that speaker wires are also damaged as run through the same rubber bellows as the door and window controls.

Michael. The voltages of 13.9 and 13.1 strike me as a little low, though that may just be an inaccurate meter. It would be worthwhile getting the battery and the alternator professionally tested, mutimeters are inadequate for that job. Did ECU Testing do any repair to the instrument panel or just return it untouched?

Which lights are you referring to? Interior or exterior?

Your guess is a good as mine regarding a warranty claim, but if the battery has been fully discharged there is a possibility it has been damaged. Lead/acid batteries are more resilient than other types to discharge damage, but they are not completely immune. Personally I would not take my car to Audi for a battery test. Audi has a vested interest in declaring it fine. Any decent auto electrician should be able do it. I believe even Halfords will do it, though they would not be my first choice. Ensure you get a printed test report from whoever you choose.

Belief doesn't need to come into it if you get it tested.