cliffcoggin

If you still have the noise Spenser I suggest you take it to an independent VAG specialist to be assessed, and simultaneously inform the car vendor in writing that he may face a claim against him for any repair. It seems from reports on this forum that dealers are increasingly averse to admitting to, and rectifying, faults on the cars they have sold. I guess squeezed margins are leading them to cut corners and become more deceitful if that is at all possble.

Any progress on this Steve?

That's the price we pay for having so many electronic gadgets on our cars.

Ah, the notorious dealer warranty. Sadly, none of them are worth the paper they are written on.

Michael. While the problem may be any of those that Gareth listed, there is also a good chance that the battery may be at fault if it is more than say six years old. The 12.8 volt reading tells you nothing about the internal condition of the battery so I advise you to get it tested professionally. The reason is that the car's electronic systems are sensitive to seemingly trivial power variations.

Anything is possible if you throw enough money at it, but I doubt you would recover the cost of a fully rebuilt engine in the sale price of the car. Alternatively you could buy a secondhand engine from a car breaker at lower cost, but any guarantee he might provide will be essentially worthless. Is that a risk you are willing to take? It's a sad fact of modern life that it is often cheaper to renew damaged goods that it is to repair them. I suggest you look at sellling the car in its present state, after getting quotations for repair to the standard you want.

How do you know it isn't? Is the pedal spongy? Unequal braking as a result of air will try to spin the car but ABS may be masking that. In the absence of answers to my questions all we can do is sit and theorise all day long, but the fact remains that something about your clutch is defective, so either you get under the car and look for yourself, or you put it into a garage for investigation and repair. If it is to be the latter I suggest you find an independent VAG specialist rather than an Audi dealer.

Fair enough. Sorry I can not recommend a specific company. It has been too long since I had a need for a rebuild.

Duncan. An engine rebuild is going to cost several thousand pounds. Are you sure you want to invest that much of your own money rather than pursue the garage responsible for wrecking the car?

I can't help with that. I have no idea who or what Carista is.

Any news on this Damian?

The proper OBD2 tool supposedly will do the job, (often called coding the battery to the car,) but the cheap copies from Amazon and the like usually will not. Coding the battery is essential to avoid damage.

The HPFP relies on fuel to lubricate it, running it dry will cause damage. That's why pre-filling the filter and priming as much as possible with the lift pump before cranking the engine is necessary.

What news on this Gethin?

How is the repair going Adrian?

That suggests it is condensing water as it should, but the condensate is not going into the tank. The machine does need to be upright.

James. Can we assume that with your engineering background you have done the obvious things like changing the clutch fluid on schedule, checked for free play in the pedal linkage, and ensured the servo is operating correctly? (I am surprised it is a vacuum servo rather than an electric one.)

To put it differently: if you make the outside diameter of the wheel one inch bigger you should make the inside diameter of the tyre one inch smaller yet keep the overall diameter the same. If none of the explanations make sense go to a decent tyre shop for advice. Personally I would not make this change as I hate the harsh uncomfortable ride it produces, but if appearance is more important to you than comfort, have at it.

That usually indicates a poor earth connection at one of the lamp units.

It must be faulty. The crystals have proved there is moisture present. Does the machine actually run? The collection tank should have an interlock switch to prevent operation if the tank is not fully inserted.

Can you replicate the noise by bouncing the car violently while it is stationary? If so it suggests the cause lays in part of the suspension rather than the transmission.

You may still have an air lock.

Mark. Was the information shown above of use to you?

Many of us here recommend independent VAG specialists rather than Audi dealers. They generally are more helpful and approachable than the corporate Audi dealers, and are frequently cheaper into the bargain. An internet search will show those near to you.

What can happen if there is air in the system and the pump does not make enough pressure to move it, is that the air expands as it heats up which pushes coolant to the reservoir and out of the overflow. That coolant is lost, so when the car cools down even more air is drawn into the system. You need to get rid of the air before the cycle of heating and cooling begins. It is a problem that only affects a few models as it depends entirely on the design of the cooling system. It's comparable to air in the central heating system of ones house. Air will collect in the tops of the radiators, particularly those on the upper floors, and sometimes can not be moved by the pump, hence the need to bleed the air at each radiator to restore flow.