cliffcoggin
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Everything posted by cliffcoggin
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Forget about the dealer warranty, they are all worthless. Rely instead on the legal obligation the dealer has to rectify faults or re-imburse you.
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Many things in life are not allowed, such as murder and theft, but they still happen. Contact Autotrader as Steve suggested.
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Audi A4 2016 quattro Engine start system fault
cliffcoggin replied to Jose R's topic in Audi A4 (B8) Forum
It is possibly the battery starting to fail. Get the battery professionally tested; do not rely on a voltage reading to tell you anything useful. -
More likely the second seller has simply copied the photo from the first seller's advertisement because he does not have his car yet. (Note the "arriving soon" banner.) Whether that means the cars are one and the same is debatable.
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Any recommendations for brake pads and discs?
cliffcoggin replied to a4b9beauty's topic in Audi A4 (B9) Forum
Rit. Your photos reveal nothing worthwhile. If you really want a second opinion you need to take some measurements of pad thickness and disc thickness. -
You could start by answering my questions of 22nd October.
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An oil catch pot is a crude and only partial solution. Better to solve the real problem rather than introduce a bodge in the hope that it might alleviate the symptoms. As for the codes, ignore them. Take off and clean the EGR valve, ditto the DPF.
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A3 1.0 tfsi engine
cliffcoggin replied to jjean's topic in Audi Parts and Accessories For Sale & Wanted
You are unlikely to do so, and even if you do find one with a service history it will not be worth the paper it is written on. In my opinion you would be better served by buying a complete secondhand engine and have it reconditioned yourself, however that will not be cheap. -
I feel I must echo Gareth's caution. Buying a car without seeing its service history first, is like buying the car without looking at it first or test driving it. Trusting the dealer's word is risky in the field of car buying. That's not to say all dealers are shady characters, but there are enough of them in the market to make me very wary.
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Your choice of course, but a little pot of paint would cost far less than a new piece of glass. Do let us know the outcome of whatever decision you make.
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One of the experts here will tell you that unless such work is done properly the engine will run hot and destroy itself. That would be far more expensive than replacing the EGR and DPF.
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Can you see a break in the element? If so it may be possible to repair it with conductive paint. https://yourcar.co.uk/best-heated-rear-window-repair-kit/
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How did you check the battery? A simple voltage test will tell you nothing about the real condition of the battery. It needs a deep discharge test, (i.e. a load of more than 200 amps rather than the few milliamps of a multimeter,) to simulate real conditions and reveal internal faults. If your battery is original there is a fair chance it is defective and responsible for the faults you noted.
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Wire breakage is common within that rubber bellows, usually on the driver's door as that gets the most use. Search the forum for other instances. Be glad it is only the speaker affected, it's often the door lock or the window.
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Would that be the same Audi centre that told you a new diff was needed? Why take their word for it when it is so easy to check for yourself.
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No, I don't know the location of the terminals. If you can see the element it should point to them.
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Assuming the sun roof was not hit by a stone or other missile, then there is no doubt that the dealer who sold you the car is liable for its repair. It may well be a manufacturing fault at Audi that led to its destruction, but it is the vendor who has liability. The dealer will undoubtedly prevaricate but don't give in to him. Demand either a replacement car or a full and guaranteed repair.
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I think it's safe to say the differential is not the problem, and that the mechanics you consulted are guessing. I suggest you work methodically through the possible causes, eliminating each in turn, and hope to arrive at a definite or at least probable cause. Start with the tyres as mentioned by Magnet in 2022, then wheel bearings, rear tracking, CV or universal joints, prop shaft pillow bearing. The tyres are the most likely culprit. Look for mis-matched tread patterns, wrong pressure, and balance.
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The points most susceptible to damage are the terminals where the supply connects to the heating element. Have a good look at them first. If possible, test for power at those terminals with a volt meter. It would also be worth inspecting the wires that pass through a rubber bellows between body and boot lid. They have been known to break with the repeated flexing as the lid is opened.
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A new differential is a drastic measure that is rarely needed. What other possible faults did you eliminate before then?
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Was that a professional diagnosis or one you did yourself with a cheap code reader?
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So what do you intend to do about it? In your position I would write a letter or email of complaint explaining the fault and demanding it be repaired. Do not use phone calls or text messages for that purpose. You need evidence that can be produced in court should it ever get to that stage.
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Ah, so better atomisation is the key. That makes sense and is something I should have thought of for myself. Thanks for the explanation.
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Those of a kindly disposition might think your dealer is snowed under with too much work to attend to your minor faults. Those of a more cynical nature, such as me, might suspect him of prevaricating in the hope that you will give up until after the guarantee runs out.
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Dion. There will be a drain for condensed water from the aircon casing, which is why there are often water drips on the ground when the car is parked after a drive in humid conditions. There is a good chance your drain line is blocked. I don't where it is or what form it takes, but you will need to find and unblock it.
