cliffcoggin

John. I think you will find that roof mounted driving lights are illegal. There are limits to how high and low such lights may be placed, though I don't know the detalis off hand.

John. Do yourself a favour, throw your meter in the rubbish bin, and then get the battery and alternator professionally tested. Until you can prove that the battery and alternator are in good condition any warning light or message is likely to be false. A defective battery can easily be responsible for all the map and radio problems your car is suffering.

Sean. To add to Magnet's comment, and to answer your question, yes the matrix is part of the coolant system. To use an electrical analogy it is in parallel not in series if that means anything to you. In other words you can have perfectly good flow in the part that keeps the engine cool, but no flow through the matrix part.

Told you so. It is now standard practice for Audi to deny all responsibility and deny all warranty claims for all defects. What was once a prestigious car brand is now a maker of shoddy unreliable junk. O how the mighty are fallen!

Does that mean the engine now starts and the lights work properly?

I seem to recall many similar or related problems to recent models reported in these forums, so it would be worth spending an hour reading them. I know that's not much help, however my car precedes such electrickery so I did not take a lot of notice and can not point you directly at the appropriate topics.

As you wish Michael, but I can state that a simple multimeter voltage reading is useless in determining the condition of a battery. Only a deep discharge test under a heavy load will reveal internal faults, hence my suggestion of a professional test. See this: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249

Harley. It's no surprise that dealers don't have the switch, and if breakers also don't I reckon your only chance is Ebay. You may find an individual breaking that particular model, or maybe somebody in China is making a clone. If you can not buy a switch it may be possible to repair the existing switch if you are handy with tools. If the metal contacts are burnt or damaged you have a chance; if plastic components are broken you have no chance.

Not that I know of, but be aware that a faulty alternator can drain a battery so it needs to be tested.

I think we can assume that the repair was successful as ECU Testing are a reputable company. That leaves battery and alternator as prime suspects.

Andrew. Thanks for an unusually clear explanation. Yes, the driver's door lock is the master that controls the others, so that should be the first thing to sort out. Damaged wires between door and frame are a common problem. Most often the fault affects the driver's door as that one gets the most use, but it will be necessary to examine all the doors and boot wiring as they all suffer insulation cracking. It is possible that speaker wires are also damaged as run through the same rubber bellows as the door and window controls.

Michael. The voltages of 13.9 and 13.1 strike me as a little low, though that may just be an inaccurate meter. It would be worthwhile getting the battery and the alternator professionally tested, mutimeters are inadequate for that job. Did ECU Testing do any repair to the instrument panel or just return it untouched?

Which lights are you referring to? Interior or exterior?

Your guess is a good as mine regarding a warranty claim, but if the battery has been fully discharged there is a possibility it has been damaged. Lead/acid batteries are more resilient than other types to discharge damage, but they are not completely immune. Personally I would not take my car to Audi for a battery test. Audi has a vested interest in declaring it fine. Any decent auto electrician should be able do it. I believe even Halfords will do it, though they would not be my first choice. Ensure you get a printed test report from whoever you choose.

Belief doesn't need to come into it if you get it tested.

PS. Any attempt to resurrect the argument in a new thread will result in an instant ban for the participants.

I will not tolerate arguments from other forums spilling over into this. This thread is locked.

Leaving aside curiosity, does it really matter what the fault or its cure is? If we spend more time discussing it the 30 day limit will expire.

Get the battery professionally tested Charlotte to prove the point. That means a deep discharge test drawing a huge current, not a simple multimeter reading of the voltage under little load.

You bought it from Copart? That explains a lot. The chances are that the car was an insurance write-off i.e. beyond economical repair.

I don't think such a thing exists in the motor trade. You get what you pay for, which at an Audi dealer means a comfortable chair, free coffee, and an obsequious clerk at the front desk; while at an independant means a lower bill, no chairs, no coffee, and often a chance to talk to the man who actually did the work. I prefer the latter.

Funny you should mention re-mapping. Look at the forum history over the past few days for discussion of the matter.

P&R.

No, the radio alone did not not kill the battery, but it was the last straw for a battery that had been slowly dying for months. A dying battery often can start an engine perfectly well, hence few owners are aware of a problem, but the cars sensitive electronic systems are affected by internal faults in the battery so they generate some odd faults. One of the first of those faults is the stop/start system.

Gents. While I am glad to read of opposing views on the matter, particularly as I have no personal experience of re-mapping, the arguments are starting to become personal so I am locking this topic.