It would if the locks are still vacuum operated and that pipe was still part of the vacuum circuit. However if you can easily pass air down the pipe without an effect on the locks then the pipe can be eliminated from further investigation.
Unless you have a high quality code reader I suggest you ignore it and get the car scanned professionally. Most cheap domestic code readers are so misleading as to be worthless.
There are a few possible causes for your problem that include a defective battery, a faulty instrument panel, and a faulty ECU amongst others, but you will not know without testing.
The reduced heating is consistent with a blocked heater matrix. The garage report confirmed no flow, and though the garage tried to flush it, there has been little success. I'd say you need a new heater matrix.
Another thought. You mentioned an open ended pipe in the boot. Does blowing or sucking on it produce any response at the locks? That should tell you if it is connected to anything.
If diesel, Adblue, ULEZ etc. are a concern for you, have you considered a battery car? As long as you have off road parking at your house for cheap charging the higher purchase cost will soon be offset by lower fuel costs and zero road tax.
What an intriguing puzzle. In my experience vacuum pumps are rarely silent so I would expect you to be able to hear it, even if the noise is no help in locating it. If you can not hear it I wonder if the car has been converted to electric locking.
The fault may not be the connector. I suggest you follow the wires from the white connector looking for cuts, abrasions, poor connection at the other end, etc. before buying new parts.
Omar.
There is little chance of getting a useful reply once you have modified the car by removing the DPF and the EGR. It's hard enough to resolve problems on standard cars on this forum; once you change the car to non-standard it becomes almost impossible because nobody knows exactly what was done. Your best option is to consult whoever modified your car.
Allan.
You have given precious little useful information, so how about telling us: mileage, service history, length of ownership, details of any investigation of the problem and by whom, circumstances when the problem occurs such as hot or cold etc.
The value is whatever somebody is prepared to pay for it, whether that be £100 or £10000. You could look for guidance at prices in Autotrader for example, but price is not the same as value.
I can't help with the oil warning, except to suggest you take the car back to the garage that removed the instrument panel in case it did not refit the connections correctly.
I am curious to know if the garage was an Audi dealer or an independent.
Richard.
I am unclear of the circumstances of this vibration, so would you clarify for me these points. Is it occurring when the car is stationary? Do you feel the vibration at the steering wheel, the road wheels, or throughout the whole car? Does it happen when the engine is off but the ignition is on?