cliffcoggin

Hang on a moment. You started the thread asking about extension cables for what I assume is an Audi charge point; now you are suggesting a complete new charge point of unknown quality. Can we start again by asking what the problem is with your charge point, what brand it is, and why you want to change it? Despite what you may read here or elsewhere, you can not safely plug anything you want into a domestic socket without consideration of the electrical load the appliance will draw.

Translation of Gujs's message. ............................................................................ Hi I have a problem with an Audi RS6. The car indicates that the alternator has no communication. I replaced the alternator yesterday and still have the same problem. It shows u100800 and u105200, but no message is shown in the instrument panel. The problem is that while driving, I suddenly release the throttle, sometimes around 60/70 km per hour or at a constant speed, the power drops and immediately returns. I hope someone can help me with this/tips. It is my girlfriend's car and now she is using mine.

Good work investigating the problem Jonny. Stevey Y is probably the best person to advise on injector changing.

Thanks Richard. If I still worked on my own car I would undoubtedly invest in one. However I don't so I shan't.

It's inevitable that a high mileage car will probably, though not certainly, have more faults than a low mileage car. It will all depend how carefully the cars have been driven and how well they have been maintained. Nevertheless it would be wrong to generalise and condemn all high mileage cars out of hand. Whatever the faults, they can all be fixed if you throw enough money at them. Sorry, but you must make your own decision based on the factors I mentioned and the size of your budget. A good starting point would be to ensure the cars have a full service history. Any that don't should be ignored.

If you bought from the dealer within the last 30 days you are entitled to a free repair or a refund. Given the size of the leak I doubt Radweld would seal it.

Easy? That depends how much mechanical aptitude you have. I'm guessing you have never done anything like it so perhaps put a day aside for the job.

Not really. You need to search for yourself. Independant VAG specialists should have access to appropriate equipment and diagnostic tools to cater for all problems.

I don't blame you.

Richard. For my own interest, is the VCDS a self contained unit or does it need to be connected to a laptop computer? I can't get the details myself from the Ross Tach website without accepting cookies which I never do.

Ian. I don't know what that connector is called, but is it definitely the connector that is leaking, rather than the gasket under the flange?

Every single warning light should illuminate for a few seconds after turning the ignition key. It's a lamp test function designed, as the name suggests, to demonstrate if the bolbs are working. I suspect the oil level fault is a separate matter to the above, and is probably a sensor failure. Scanning with a decent code reader should confirm. I believe a new sensor is cheap but I don't know how difficult it is to fit. If your car has a dipstick then it will be more than adequate for checking oil level until you get the sensor sorted out. Dip the oil once per week according to the car handbook, or more often if the engine is known to be an oil guzzler.

What do mean by "computer is not allowing me to do it"? Are there any warning lights on the dash? Oil level sensors commonly fail, but I would have expected Audi to tell you that.

I guess he's another post and run merchant we shall not hear from again.

It seems nobody knows Alex, but for less than a tenner the cheapest Ebay multimeter will do what you want, though don't rely on it for mains voltages etc. Alternatively you could buy a test light for less than a fiver.

Fix the PCV (aka EGR valve in this country), and you won't need to modify your engine.

These symptoms suggest you still have a restriction or partial blockage in the heater matrix. A cleaning fluid and reverse flushing under pressure may clear it, but there is no certainty it will.

Most extension cables are only rated for 5 amps continuous or 10 amps intermittent. Trying to draw more than that will result in melting or even fire. What current are you trying to draw at your charger?

I see the mirror turning and out. What's the problem?

Impractical, or just inconvenient? You must have a lot of money invested in such a young car, so surely it is worth investing a day of your time to put your mind at rest. Personally I would not bother taking it to the local Audi dealer. Instead I would find a local independant garage which will not have a vested interest in maintaining good relations with Audi UK.

Ryan. From what you wrote there has clearly been attempt to hide the crash damage, so it is possible there is more that you have not discovered yet. Before spending any more money and effort on repairs it would be worth checking all the body panels for their fit and alignment. If any of them look wrong or the doors do not close as they should, I would have the body and chassis alignment professionally checked at a body shop. It will be expensive, but better to find out now if it is twisted and in need of even more expensive work that might be uneconomic.

True, but until you or your mechanic does so, you can't eliminate the most likely cause of the fault.

A wise decision. I'll not detract from your headlamp topic except to suggest you search recent forum history for the subject of cambelt durability.

You can add more expanation Mark if you want. We don't charge by the word.

Please do.