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Hi Frank, I agree with all the comments you've received so far, but cant emphasise enough the importance of the offset. I have gone through a wheel changing exercise myself on my Audi and it took me months and months to find wheels I liked and that would fit. The offset can determine where on the hub the wheel will sit and whether its likely to fowl any brake or suspension components. Fortunately there are easily accessible websites that can give you a guide indication of how your new wheel will fit, they will ask you for your existing wheel fitment and the new wheel fitment your proposing. They will ask you for the existing and new wheel radius and width, and also existing and new tyre sizes. They will also ask you for the offset of both existing and new wheels. The offset is often referred to as the 'ET' followed by 2 numbers and this is usually stamped in the wheels casting on the back of the rim. Just as an example my existing wheels had an offset of ET31 (stamped on the reverse of the rim) and the new wheels I was proposing had an offset of ET40. If you want a smooth and not so bumpy ride, try and and avoid tyres with a profile of less that 40. Hope this is helpful

Thanks. I had someone take a quick look but nothing obvious stood out. Was just wondering if it sounded familiar to anyone before I paid for a deeper dive into it.

Sounds a lot like my old issue with 2.0 FSI petrol, but yours is diesel and what solved my issue you've already tried to do. For me it was high and low fuel pressure sensors, in diesel probably there is only one ? or out of 2 you've replaced only 1 ? but yeah I've got nothing more to add to that.

They are Matrix LED I believe as they have the large projector lens on the outside and a myriad of lenses towards the centre.

Can anyone suggest/recommend reliable UK suppliers of used body parts for my A6 Allroad please. Thanks in advance for any help. Graham.

My classic Audi mechanic always tells me to buy Ferodo when buying brake parts, good quality and reasonable price.

Okay thanks. I will visit a workshop to check the EGR Valve and clean it. I will post here once the service is done

Hi, I do! I will see if I can collar him before going to the garage 👍

Hello everyone! Here I am back with some major updates! I picked up the car from my mechanic after completing all the work mentioned earlier. The car is running great—in fact, I’ve already driven over 2,500 km with it since I bought it. There’s still a bit of uncertainty with cold starts, but aside from that, I’m really enjoying a solid and very pleasant car to drive on a daily basis. Over time, I’m noticing a few "notes" about the car, including: I replaced the tires with some high-performance (and fresh) Hankook ones, which significantly improved driving comfort. Unfortunately, I discovered that 3 out of 4 alloy wheels are bent and need to be repaired. Indeed, at around 100 km/h, there’s a strong vibration in the steering wheel, and after 3 balancing attempts, nothing has changed. Regarding the uncertain cold start, my mechanic and I first agreed to use four full tanks of diesel with the addition of Bardahl Top Diesel+. I’m currently on the fourth tank and the issue persists, so we’re going to try something stronger, like mineral oil for 2-stroke engines, to try to "unblock" and clean the Bosch pump from any accumulated sludge. If that doesn’t help, we’ll proceed with replacing the camshaft position sensor and, if necessary, overhaul the pump. Fuel consumption has finally settled into a very interesting range. In fact, I’m now getting 13 km/l (30 MPG). What can I say... I’m really happy!

I got same issue had water dried it up now seat not working do u spray contact cleaner on swich side of seat to?

It's the intercooler pump. A member had a similar issue the other day: https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/198777-P-190-d

You need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Also what engine has the car got? Does it happen in certain weather or temperature conditions? Any warning lights on? Any recent other work done to the car?

Please keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

Hi Riflo, What a diamond. Thanks Paul

Does that mean the bean counters have been working at at SKF and Timken? I've not heard of F. A. G.

I have changed the largely meanless title HELP to something that more accurately represents the problem in order that it can more easily be found by others with a similar problem.

Thanks Nicholas. If any other sufferers of this problem decide to try this fix please report your findings here.

Just one way of you getting the roof down to enjoy the sunshine

They should just be revisions the M being the newest.

Definitely need more details but I'd consider the thermostat especially if the temp gauge is fluctuating or not rising to 90 degrees.

You're most welcome, glad you got sorted 😊

Definitely looks good

After spending a fortune the garage said they cant fix it. Went to another place and straight away found it was issue with egr coolant sensor. Replaced that and back to normal running temp and stays there. No happy i wasted money and weeks with those other morons.

Hi, thanks for the reply. I was thinking sensor too BUT what sensor, located where? I've not been able to find out what sensor is sending the insufficient flow fault message. The EGR valve was a like for like replacement PIERBURG 7.02132.07.0 from Autodoc. I also replaced the solenoid with new off Ebay. I'm told by the geeks at Ross-Tech (VCDS people) that the check engine light can go off by itself after a few driving cycles. However, the latest twist in the saga is that the light came on 14th June, then went off by itself later that week, then came back on yesterday (23rd June) but when I scanned the car, the report said the fault that brought the light on was the one on 14th June, nothing for 23rd June. It would be great if someone could tell me which sensor is reporting the insufficient flow.

You need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up to find the route cause.