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I really am beginning to think this is a wind up or do you not know anything or have learned nothing from your previous ownership of any car, buy an electric bike its safer.

Hey Bob That's a good point about the software being slow to boot up. Not thought of that as the occasional yellow flash ups that I have experienced barely last milliseconds before they disappear. Thankyou for that.

Thanks Paul, Now even more confused with who initiated the alert! Would suggest you take this up with another dealer. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Jay, Judging by your written comments, I too would concur with your views on your chosen mechanic. Just to add, I don’t open links from unknown sources, so my comments are based solely on your written word. Could you do us a kindness Jay and amend your profile and be more specific re. your location within England. Regards, Gareth.

Who are you addressing this to Ian?

Hello Chris, It’s mint and covered 76k so, no, just don’t mess around with it. Regards, Gareth.

Dafne

Hi there. No luck I’m afraid. Just literally tried it again sat on the driveway. Ignition/engine on, all windows closed. Single click roll the driver window down. Release and then press done two clicks and hold for 10-15 seconds. Single click roll window up to top, release and pull up two clicks and hold for 15 seconds. Then nothing. One click still not working to open drivers window. One click works to close the window but not open

Does anyone know how I can confirm that my vehicle has PR code 9G8 please?

Done, but something is missing here, the mechanic don’t know what is missing here try to reach Audi but also they didn’t know. StreamableWatch unnamed | Streamable

Thanks for you advice. I will be giving it a try.

So part arrived quicker then the dealer planned, car has been dropped back and now have new issues that were not there before the car went wrong. New issues: Car is not recognised on the Octopus Go app and will not charge on the Hypervolt, did not have this issue before, have deleted the car from Octopus and re-setup the car and it still says no car plugged in. My profile has gone, could not add me so had to delete my profile from the car, app and and online and re-do, car now sees my profile. App is reporting incorrect battery levels of the car, this was also doing this before the delete and re-install but still does not show the right battery level, the app is talking to the car as I can open and close does, sound horn etc from the app but the battery level is wrong. Drivers side door central locking not always opening. I also tried plugging the car into a RolecEV charger in a car park and that reports no car connected. Anyone got any thoughts as it looks like the car is going back to the dealer?

Hi, Thank you for your response. I saw this thread whilst researching before I posted my own. I’m not convinced I have an alternator problem. In my case it is the engine which suddenly died whilst under way. There were no abnormal indications at all on the dash and there’s no evidence of any event in the diagnostics record. In my opinion that indicates that the engine behaved correctly in response to its inputs (so nothing to report) but possibly one of those inputs was erroneous. The dealer is unable, or unwilling, to troubleshoot the matter.

Hi Steve, How are you? I’m looking to get up to Nottingham sometime time next week (don’t know exactly when yet, that’s down to when I can get into Notts kayak club, could be the weekend ), to buy a racing kayak, so could bring the wheels up then if you’re still interested in them?

There’s an aftermarket upgrade to the MMI & maps you can get. Not sure if it dies anything with the DAB radio but you could ask: Satnavmapupdates.co.uk MMIupdates.com I used the 1st one to update my maps but don’t know if it did anything to the radio.

Thanks for the help

Hi can anyone help with this. I'm looking to code out the 'brake pad' wear limit reached message on dash. I managed to eliminate the orange brake light symbol when the message appears along with the audible by changing the long coding on VCDS but does anyone know where i can delete the message aswell on VCDS? New pads & discs fitted and also new genuine brake wear sensors but there seems to be that there might be a fault somewhere so im looking to de code it completley. See picture below of message and red warning light

Thanks I will have a look at the coilovers and make a decision, I believe the brand is mts techniq and just a coilover replacement for the original drc setup. I'm looking at swapping them for a set of bilsteins at some point. As for the arms and suspension bushes everything is either new oem or poly bushed. Apart from the strut tops which need replacing. Many thanks Pete

I know you have seen the above two questions Kian, so I can only assume you are unwilling to help other members of the forum by replying. One warning coming up.

Its the pressing of the lock or unlock on the key fob.

Coil packs do fail. Odd the cats gone at the same time.

A common problem with Audis of that era is damage to the wires within the rubber bellows between door and frame. It is worth checking all doors and the boot lid.

As the gearbox oil was changed recently it makes me think it's sensor related. I think it needs an Audi independent specialist.

On multi-link suspension, start with the cheap stuff first and then progress. The lower arms are likely hydrabushes, so they leak when they fail. I changed mine at 65k on a 17 plate A4 Allroad. Lemforder is OE specification. Also check the ARB bushes on the sway bar. Next the ARB link, then finally the top arms. Top arms when they go, will knock. They are usually visible if you hold and 10-2 position and try lateral movement. The only thing left is the top mounts and the bump stops on the suspension shock. If you're changing anything, then always do both sides. Lemforder and Meyle HD, that's all I'd fit. Given the state of our roads - also look at the coil springs too. you can drop an inch and not even know about it. Not sure with A5, but on A4 Avant, the rear spring seat/bush corrodes from inside out, so although cheap from Audi, you're looking at labour to fit unless you're spanner handy. I did it myself so as not to disturb eccentric bolt. If I was doing it again, I would just mark then remove that bolt. This is complicated further if its quattro drive. Car will need alignment check afterwards.