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Glad you got sorted 🙂

Is it gearbox or diff?

You're welcome 🙂 Not a daft question at all. If it were mine I'd change any gaskets whilst the parts a disassembled. You wouldn't want any leaks after you put it back together.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Lovely looking car, le nans died definitely the best one for the A6 C6 in my opinion

Hi Steve That was my next investigation, would I need a computer to turn off ESP light or do simply change the wheel sensors. As always I'll keep you in the loop. Cheers mate Dale

I had a similar problem where the front wipers would only work when the car was moving, rear wiper nothing and high beam not functioning (high beam flash would though) thought the bonnet switch lock but wasn’t that After checking fuses found no power before one fuse forget exactly which one. So fed power via another and everything worked fine (still has fuse protection) So in my case must be a wiring fault somewhere.

The pessimist within me does not believe mechanical faults fix themselves. I would investigate further before feeling lucky.

Hi all Looking to purchase an RS4 Avant, 2020 onwards. One of the things I can’t get to bottom of is around suspension options. If I look at new spec there’s something called Dynamic Ride Control, yet when I look at approved used cars, there are a series of different options. Basically my question is….what are the options in terms of adjustable or dynamically controlled suspension and for those with a car do they make a real word difference to ride quality? Thanks in advance

Afternoon all, I'm doing some trouble shooting on my 2011 A6, C6, 2.7tdi - CANA engine code. On my diagnostics and that of an Audi independent the temperature before turbo is measuring 849°C, but there is no sensor before the turbo on the 2.7tdi (there is on the 3.0 tdi). Can anyone point out if this temperature is irrelevant / red herring or is the reading is calculated from another sensor or a resistor somewhere? I have replaced the temperature sensor on the EGR cooler to rule this out but no change there. The reason for looking into this was over the last 2 years the car has had DPF regeneration issues, resulting in me having the DPF professionally cleaned at Home - DPF Clean Team, EGR cooler cleaned by myself - a real pain to remove, injectors removed and tested (all ok) as well as other unrelated exhaust temperature sensor failures. Any advice greatly appreciated on where this temperature input comes. Thanks a lot.

Of course you are both right, and on reflection, the £130 charged wasn’t too bad. It’s just my mind would have been set on the very low cost resolution of a squirt of WD40 and a light tap on the offender. It’s a Welsh thing of short arms and deep pockets! Glad it’s fixed, and thanks for returning me to the true scene of economics? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi. Had a niggling problem with the right hand charge flap not wanting to close. When I did get it to closed and locked, it opened again when I unlocked the car. So a trip to the Main Dealer was needed. I was probably going to be told "you will have to book it in Sir, our next available time is July" .But, "hang on" the receptionist said I will get a techy to come out and have a look for you. Anyway 10 minutes later I am back on the road with a normally operating flap. The techy said the mechanism gets a bit sluggish sometimes. Probably a squirt of WD40 was used. I was so pleased with the service and in a state of euphoria I gave the techy a fiver. Tony

Good start to the weekend 😊

It sounds like a broken spring in the dual mass flywheel.

Look at the wires in the rubber bellows between doors and pillars. They often break because of the constant flexing.

Unless there are other instrument and/or cluster problems, the chances are that the temperature sender is faulty. I don't know your engine so I can't help with the sender location.

Update: It still does it sometimes , not always and not that often as before, but now it can happen even at lower RPM-s. 2000 or 2500 , mostly in second and third gear. I still can't figure it out what could it be.

Hi Steve, Thanks for your reply, I took it a local Audi dealer he knew where it would be straight away. It was behind the panel on the side of the dash, he said it's common for them to be moved if they have a tracker or something fitted apparently. I've got an ECM327 dongle that connects to an app on phone, it worked as well. It's thrown up a P22A7 code, something to do with the NOx sensor heater? I'm gonna get it looked at while it's under warranty I'm not messing with it.

Hi interesting, I can see where its going with the rotation of the purple bit as you say thats probably the adjustment for contact with the pedal, only other thing I can suggest is removing the clip on the left side which is holding the wiring and see if the whole unit moves down. Steve.

Hi as far as I am aware the only way of checking the gear oil level is via the filler port/bolt, the oil and any associated filters should be changed every thirty thousand miles or two years. Steve

👍...OMG.... not good at all but easily done.

Thanks Arun. We have to be careful in respect to what we quote. Surely quite a difference between an A4 and an e-Tron. Shame the OP hasn’t returned to view the responses and give us some clarification. Kind regards, Gareth.

Happened again on the way home from Kent. Kept beeping until I was half way home, then it stopped! Weird!

Hey, just wondering if you found a fix for this?

👍

Thanks, Steve. Will update once Audi have taken a look in case others hit at some point.