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It might not be as bad as you think as the under tray is in two parts. Front for the engine and rear for the gearbox. Looks like it's come apart at the join.

Cheers @Turlough I remember buying Fedoro parts donkeys years ago when I had an old mk3 cortina never gave them a thought but haven't yet started on the rears.

Hi guys thanks for the responses! So I recently purchased the car for a VERY cheap price with this problem. (I love a gamble!) again paid very cheap! the car still starts just misfires… On both cylinder 2 and 8 it’s only 1 valve on each that is only very slightly open. Would the cams being out not cause this? I’m from the West Midlands by the way Magnet!

Aircon compressor could be at fault. Has the system been pressure tested?

Cheers Gareth I've just got Febi front hubs and wheel bearing kit along with a Frenkit caliper recon kit for my S2 front caliper conversion upgrade 🤞 but may need cv joints or complete shafts depending on their condition once off and wishbones.

Id recommend you get a second opinion from another Audi dealership as well as from an Audi independent specialist. Then contact the motoring ombudsman. You'll be waiting 6 months for a reply though.

Keep us posted on how you get on

Hi folks can anyone recommend an aftermarket undertray iv just noticed that mines has been cable tied up and has come apart at the front any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

Hi AOC, I have been experiencing difficulty with my dealership who is adamant that my rear o/s suspention that has been misting for 8+ months, and progressively getting worse with squeaking becoming more pronounced under load - does not meet criteria for a warranty claim - I have All-in from Audi. The issue was first highlighted by Audi in October 2024, and again in early June 2026 - both instances documented in an Health Report and Audi video / picture. I addressed this issue earlier this month with a Sales Manager in the absence of the After Sales Manager, who stated it does not meet criteria for a warranty claim - no details of this criteria shared? Instead, I was advised that the best that could be done is to clean the area and reassess in 2-3 months, which I reluctantly agreed to with a picture before any cleaning for my reference. In the interim I contacted Audi Warranty and attached both Health Reports and a still image for their attention - I received the following reply: Thank you for your email. Regarding the suspension component, this is a part that may potentially be covered under warranty. However, coverage is dependent on the diagnosis and the root cause of the failure. At this time, no warranty claim has been submitted for this issue. To proceed, please have the garage submit a formal claim. Once received, our technicians will review the details and begin the claim process accordingly. I put the above to Audi UK Customer Services and had the matter escalated to the Audi Executive Office - with the later referring me back to the dealership to be offered an explanation why it does not meet criteria?! NO support from the Executive Office who did not seem to have read the complete chain of emails. Any advice or guidance AOC?

The timing chain has jumped a sprocket tooth as a result of stretching or collapse of its tensioner. When that happened at least two valves hit the piston crowns and bent the stems, hence they will not retract fully. As if that's not bad enough there is a chance that the conrods have also been bent by impact with the valves, so you could have a very expensive repair bill ahead of you. Timing chains don't fail abruptly. They give plenty of warning by way of chain slap before something serious happens, so I believe the growing problem has been ignored for a long time.

Welcome Mark, How long have you owned the car, and how long have you had this sticking valve issue? Timing chain tension, and any chance it’s jumped a tooth or two? Regards, Gareth. p.s. Can you be more specific with your location please? Large country is the U.K.!

Hi guys new here! Love the site and I am looking forward to getting to know you guys! so…. I have an Audi S4 4.2 B6 that has a severe issue 😔 car had random misfire on both bank and a camshaft fault. Confident it was timing chain I decided to do a compression test… all cylinder came back around 195 psi apart from cylinder 2 & 8 which were both 0! I have pulled the intake manifold so i could see the intake valves and on both cylinder 2 & 8 it appears 1 valve on each stays open a tiny bit? Any ideas what could be the cause? Here is a couple of photos of bank 1 cam shafts which seems out of time abit if im correct? thanks in advance!!

Let us know how you get on John.

It’s Brembo for me for brake parts - often bought off reputable sellers on EBay. Other parts:- I favour Febi etc. usually bought at competitive prices from Parts in Motion ( who also supply via. EBay. Let us know what you think Tony. Regards, Gareth. p.s. Turlough - how old is your mechanic?

Welcome Graham, Have you searched EBay, and registered your want with on-line car breaker link sites such as Partsfinder - there are more? Regards, Gareth.

Thank you Frank, Your case is unusual. Usually,owners want to buy larger diameter wheels, because ‘they look better’! Ride quality is obviously important to you ( and would be to me), but in effect, you have bought the wrong car by buying an S.Line, which has inherently harder suspension. My money would be on the likelihood that you bought the car on ‘looks and toys’, which Audi translate into ‘owner also wants roadholding at the expense of ride quality’. One other factor to consider is whether your current tyres are extra load (XL), since if so, this will aggravate the already harsh ride. Please let us know.

Hi Frank, I agree with all the comments you've received so far, but cant emphasise enough the importance of the offset. I have gone through a wheel changing exercise myself on my Audi and it took me months and months to find wheels I liked and that would fit. The offset can determine where on the hub the wheel will sit and whether its likely to fowl any brake or suspension components. Fortunately there are easily accessible websites that can give you a guide indication of how your new wheel will fit, they will ask you for your existing wheel fitment and the new wheel fitment your proposing. They will ask you for the existing and new wheel radius and width, and also existing and new tyre sizes. They will also ask you for the offset of both existing and new wheels. The offset is often referred to as the 'ET' followed by 2 numbers and this is usually stamped in the wheels casting on the back of the rim. Just as an example my existing wheels had an offset of ET31 (stamped on the reverse of the rim) and the new wheels I was proposing had an offset of ET40. If you want a smooth and not so bumpy ride, try and and avoid tyres with a profile of less that 40. Hope this is helpful

Thanks. I had someone take a quick look but nothing obvious stood out. Was just wondering if it sounded familiar to anyone before I paid for a deeper dive into it.

Sounds a lot like my old issue with 2.0 FSI petrol, but yours is diesel and what solved my issue you've already tried to do. For me it was high and low fuel pressure sensors, in diesel probably there is only one ? or out of 2 you've replaced only 1 ? but yeah I've got nothing more to add to that.

They are Matrix LED I believe as they have the large projector lens on the outside and a myriad of lenses towards the centre.

I have spent hours trying to determine what type of headlights our 2019 Audi A5 Diesel Sportback 35 TDI Sport 5d S Tronic has. To no avail. I am needing to know if they are Max LED and adaptive to EU driving? I've been onto Audi - and they are next to useless!! It's not in the user manual Our MMI has no option for adjusting exterior lights It can't be this hard.....:(((( Would appreciate any help please?

Can anyone suggest/recommend reliable UK suppliers of used body parts for my A6 Allroad please. Thanks in advance for any help. Graham.

My classic Audi mechanic always tells me to buy Ferodo when buying brake parts, good quality and reasonable price.

Hi, I have an issue with my A3 8P 1.6 TDI sportback where the car will randomly sometimes cut out or stall whilst driving. Usually the glowplug light will flash or i lose all power. It can happen 3 times in the space of a month, and sometimes won't happen for almost a year. Sometimes the car can restart itself again without a problem, sometimes will not be able to restart itself. Below are the codes i have received: 01 Engine Electronics 2 problems exist 1.P060100 Internal Control Module Memory Checksum Error Passive/Sporadic 2.P019300 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit - High Input Passive/Sporadic 03 Brake Electronics 1 problems exist 1.01314 Engine Control Module (ECM) Check DTC Memory 09 Electronic Central Electric 4 problems exist 1.00332 Activation For Tank Flap Short To Ground 2.01504 License Plate Lamp Defective 3.00446 Function Limitation Due To Insufficient Voltage Lower Limit Exceeded 4.01504 License Plate Lamp Open Or Short To Plus 19 Data Bus OBD Interface 2 problems exist 1.00470 Combination Comfort Databus In Single Wire Open Circuit 2.01304 Radio No Signal/Communication I also have the P0087 code too. I have replaced the Fuel Pump (located under the rear passener seat), the fuel pressure sensor, and also fuel filters have been changed. Can anyone help?

Okay thanks. I will visit a workshop to check the EGR Valve and clean it. I will post here once the service is done