This is a quirky one which I have had off and on over the last year or so.  On start up drivers door mirror does not move from its parked position, passenger side mirror operates normally.  It’s intermittent, if I toggle the manual door mirror control switch on door arm rest between close and open position 1 the mirror usually but not always corrects itself.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

 

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. I'd suspect a faulty switch or wiring. 

Hello Paul,

Worth trying a couple of squirts of WD40 around the swivel position. 
Please report back on whether it has eased the situation or not. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

I have this too but only in winter and it is intermittent. Cycling the open/close switch works. Does WD40 work.

I tried WD40 but it made no difference.  It started operating normally again for a number of weeks, then fault reappeared again.  
Decided to change the mirror settings, and leave mirrors in open position when car parked.  A bit of a flaff, but I close them them manually using door control on exiting vehicle. 

Thanks. Does anyone know how to fix this intermittent problem?

WD40 and a bit of assistance? 

WD40 is a penetrant not a lubricant.

When I retrofitted folding mirrors to my '64 plate the drivers side was painfully slow compared to the passenger side. Took it apart, cleaned it up and sprayed some silicone spray between the mirror and the base plate where everything rotates and it's been fine ever since.

The mirror mechanism operates smoothly every time it decides to work automatically. 😝

It’s not a mechanical problem unfortunately, as it manually operates from the door switch.

 

You disagree with the WD40 manufacture’s claims then Mark-?

Yes, yes I do.

I've used it to fix a squeaky hinge, which lasted for 3 days. I've used it on locks, cables etc etc etc and invariably it dries out and you're back to where you began. Though it does quite a nice job of cleaning stainless steel and as a sticker remover.

 

 

 

I have to agree with Mark on this matter. WD40 is evil stuff that slowly congeals to a sticky muck that frequently makes the problem worse. If you get to it before it has completely dried you can free it by adding more WD40. It is like becoming addicted to a drug in that once you start using it you have to keep buying more. What a wonderful strategy to increase sales!

Despite the manufacturers claims, WD40 is a poor lubricant. Bear in mind it was developed as a rust preventative because of its water displacement properties, (hence the WD in its name,) which require it to dry to a firm well adhered coating on steel. That's the last thing you want from a lubricant.

Best address this with the manufacturer then-?

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

6 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Best address this with the manufacturer then-?

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Oh I have in the past. The manufacturer is notoriously tight lipped about the constituents of WD40. All one can get out of them is the MSDS (material safety data sheet) which reveals only that the solvent is similar to white spirit.

https://sichdatonline.chemical-check.de/Dokumente/3275/EUF-0002_0012_27-02-2024_EN.pdf

As a chemist in a past life I recognise that WD40 is a mixture of oil, white spirit and a powerful perfume to cover the solvent stink. I suspect it also contains drying agents to congeal the oil. Drying agents were commonly used at one time in oil based paints and varnishes. (I used to be involved in the manufacture of two such agents: cobalt siccatol and manganese siccatol so I know a little about them.)

Thanks Cliff - very enlightening.

Mark - silicone spray. The bodyshop’s enemy. I would keep it well away from any paintwork, otherwise ‘fish eyes’ paint problems are inevitable.

13 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Mark - silicone spray. The bodyshop’s enemy. I would keep it well away from any paintwork, otherwise ‘fish eyes’ paint problems are inevitable.

Only a problem if any respraying is being done.

A good grease and wax remover before starting the prep work should be sufficient though.

Allow me to put my chemist's hat on again. Silicones are the best thing for plastics and rubbers because they do not soften or dissolve them, unlike mineral oils, however they are much more difficult to remove than mineral oils. If you have ever smeared silicone mastic on a glass shower door it will be forever water repellant.