I bought my A3 at the end of January and it didn't have an MOT - I booked the car in for an MOT at a garage and drove it straight over. Anyway, after a lot of chasing it eventually had an MOT and a quote for work to be done including a new rear caliper, pads and discs all-round and a full brake fluid change. 

When I went to pick the car up it was in the process of a retest which I watched. My first indication something was wrong came when it was on the rolling road with the brake lights illuminated but it didn't stop. Anyway the guy completes the MOT and wanders over to his colleagues - he said 'I've passed it but the brake pedal went all the way to the floor and I had nothing' ... ...

This piqued my interest as I'm sure it would anyones, I then watched them rush around, take the rear passenger side wheel off and bleed the brakes. They came over and said 'there was a small air bubble in the line but it's fine now' - the guy took it for a quick test drive then handed me the keys. 

My concern is that if the pedal went 'all the way to the floor' and he had 'nothing' then would a full bleed be needed? Baring in mind they changed a caliper and changed the entire brake fluid system. The brakes work now - but there is a fair bit of travel in the pedal before they start to slow the car. 

I would appreciate any advice or thoughts? I've been less than impressed with them overall, they polished the headlamp as it failed on the lens being defective and have left the polish spray all over the car. They also went to take it off the ramp and as the back wheels went into the rolling road the front of the car caught on the central jack - so god only knows what that hit, sump, exhaust manifold? >.<

 

Any garage that passes an MOT with the brake pedal going to the floor .....    Well you make your mind up ! i think that says it all.

That testing station staff are clearly a bunch of cowboys, and should be reported to the DOT for issueing a certificate for a defective vehicle.

I suggest you take the car to another garage without delay and get the repairs done properly before getting it tested. Note that air in the brake hydraulic system is regarded as dangerous because the brakes will work unevenly, and in the worst case can cause the car to spin.

Make no mistake Leah, your car is dangerous in its present condition!

I agree with Cliff that MOT testing station needs reporting asap. The car needs another check asap. When I had something similar with my A6 it was an intermittent fault with the master cylinder. 

Am I missing something here?

So work was carried out on the braking system, and the hydraulics were not bled properly. The car was put on the rolling road to possibly identify which brake line still contained air. Once identified from the rolling road test, that offending wheel was re- bled to (partly?) to rectify the pedal to the floor symptom.

The question remains:- are the brakes now up to the MOT requirements or not? As I see it, the pedal no longer goes to the floor, so really no need to criticise - unless the brakes do not meet the MOT requirements, and we don’t know whether they do! 
I would question the OP’s judgement of not doing the basic pre MOT checks - of which headlight lens deterioration would be one, but we are all different. 
Also, if you are (understandably?) dissatisfied with the work carried out, then the obvious first port of call wouldn’t be to address the issue with them, since no one on here can offer any judgement on the vehicle without inspecting it.

Please let us know what your next move will be Leah. 
Regards,

Gareth.

p.s. I don’t have any allegiance to any MOT station, but we only have one side of the problem, but I fail to understand why the issue wasn’t /hasn't been addressed at source. 

Leah did write "there is a fair bit of travel in the pedal before they start to slow the car".

Fair point Cliff, but a certain amount of pedal travel (OP doesn’t quantify) could be expected since car has just been fitted with new discs and pads all-round, and need some miles under its belt to bed in.

Please let us know what a ‘fair bit…’ equates to Leah.

Regards,

Gareth. 

1 hour ago, Magnet said:

Am I missing something here?

So work was carried out on the braking system, and the hydraulics were not bled properly. The car was put on the rolling road to possibly identify which brake line still contained air. Once identified from the rolling road test, that offending wheel was re- bled to (partly?) to rectify the pedal to the floor symptom.

The question remains:- are the brakes now up to the MOT requirements or not? As I see it, the pedal no longer goes to the floor, so really no need to criticise - unless the brakes do not meet the MOT requirements, and we don’t know whether they do! 
I would question the OP’s judgement of not doing the basic pre MOT checks - of which headlight lens deterioration would be one, but we are all different. 
Also, if you are (understandably?) dissatisfied with the work carried out, then the obvious first port of call wouldn’t be to address the issue with them, since no one on here can offer any judgement on the vehicle without inspecting it.

Please let us know what your next move will be Leah. 
Regards,

Gareth.

p.s. I don’t have any allegiance to any MOT station, but we only have one side of the problem, but I fail to understand why the issue wasn’t /hasn't been addressed at source. 

 

I think you missed where I said I bought the car without an MOT and drove it straight to an MOT testing station - I wasn't legally allowed to drive it anywhere else and didn't have access to a trailer - therefore I couldn't complete any basic pre MOT checks (or repairs)

I think you've also missed the timeline of events - I walked in on the retest being carried out, which is when the the comments about having 'nothing' and the 'pedal hitting the floor' occurred. Despite these statements it was passed and wasn't retested. They then bled only the rear passenger caliper and sent me on my way. It may well be that just bleeding this caliper was fine - this I guess is my question, is it likely after such a catastrophic failure that the air lock was confined to just one line leading to the rear passenger side and was easily identified during the rolling road test that formed the MOT retest... or should it all have been bled?

 

5 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Fair point Cliff, but a certain amount of pedal travel (OP doesn’t quantify) could be expected since car has just been fitted with new discs and pads all-round, and need some miles under its belt to bed in.

Please let us know what a ‘fair bit…’ equates to Leah.

Regards,

Gareth. 

 

It's over halfway, with probably only the last third biting. I do appreciate as all the pads and discs are new they need to bed in... but it's my question regarding the bleeding of the brake lines that concerns me. 

You guys all know far more than me - if it's likely the issue was solved by bleeding one caliper then I'm mostly reassured. 

Thanks, but back to the fundamental question - why didn’t you raise the issue with them once you started to drive the car away? If not then, have you expressed your discontent since? 
The situation is this - you shouldn’t drive this car if you (in caps) believe the brakes are inadequate, and as as been suggested and on going actions remain your sole responsibility. Yours isn’t to diagnose possible causes, but to set up a plan to complain to the appropriate source.

If it were mine I would select from the following:-

Complain to the garage that carried out the work and issued the MOT.

Notify the Driver & Vehicle Standards Agency that you consider the brakes to be inadequate despite it having been issued with an MOT pass on x date, and has covered x miles since. 
Is the car now taxed and the insurance valid? 

 

55 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Thanks, but back to the fundamental question - why didn’t you raise the issue with them once you started to drive the car away? If not then, have you expressed your discontent since? 
The situation is this - you shouldn’t drive this car if you (in caps) believe the brakes are inadequate, and as as been suggested and on going actions remain your sole responsibility. Yours isn’t to diagnose possible causes, but to set up a plan to complain to the appropriate source.

If it were mine I would select from the following:-

Complain to the garage that carried out the work and issued the MOT.

Notify the Driver & Vehicle Standards Agency that you consider the brakes to be inadequate despite it having been issued with an MOT pass on x date, and has covered x miles since. 
Is the car now taxed and the insurance valid? 

 

I’m failing to understand how the tax and insurance status of the car affects the brakes? 
 

I was trying (in a round about way I guess) to ask if bleeding one caliper would be sufficient to correct the issues the tester identified and to get a better understanding of the issue and the fix. I seem to have inadvertently started an argument about consumer rights - I’m not sure how. 

Let’s assume you know nothing about the history of the car, only that it didn’t have an MOT and it was retested?

For brakes after a major leak, then bleeding from just one caliper could still cause issues and a ‘soft pedal’ with air somewhere in the system. It sounds like the garage just wanted the job done quickly.

Bleeding brakes requires starting at wheel furthest from brake fluid reservoir, then finishing at wheel closest to reservoir. There’s also a process in VCDS to bleed the ABS pump. It would be worth getting the brakes bled properly, which means running at least a litre of DOT4 fluid through it. Normally it’s around £100.

For those that are spanner handy, then a Draper bleed tool is very handy, in the respect it keeps the reservoir permanently topped up while doing the job. Given the car is 2008, I’d invest in new brake nipples too. They are invariably damaged or worn. Run a smear of ceramic grease on the threads before fitting.

10 hours ago, tinysomniac said:

I’m failing to understand how the tax and insurance status of the car affects the brakes? 
 

I was trying (in a round about way I guess) to ask if bleeding one caliper would be sufficient to correct the issues the tester identified and to get a better understanding of the issue and the fix. I seem to have inadvertently started an argument about consumer rights - I’m not sure how. 

Tax and insurance status significantly controls your ability to take this car anywhere for further inspection. I guess you don’t want to share that information, so are we all making impractical suggestions of reporting this issue to DVSA? 

‘Consumer rights argument’ ? Really not seeing this, except that if you have a concern about work which has been done, then the protocol is to address that concern at source. 
 

I’m probably putting two and two together and probably  making five, but if you want a resolution, act as advised, or simply re-bleed all four brakes. 
Regards,

Gareth.

Post overlapped Richard’s.

 

 

It seems we, including myself, are making assumptions based on an imprecise story, so can we establish some facts?

1/ Was the soft pedal only discovered during the retest? That would point to a poor repair technique, but as long as it was corrected before issuing a certificate it's nothing to worry about.

2/  Is the pedal now still soft despite having a certificate?

3/ Did you Leah comment or complain at the time and what was the response?

On 2/13/2026 at 2:28 PM, tinysomniac said:

I bought my A3 at the end of January and it didn't have an MOT - I booked the car in for an MOT at a garage and drove it straight over. Anyway, after a lot of chasing it eventually had an MOT and a quote for work to be done including a new rear caliper, pads and discs all-round and a full brake fluid change. 

When I went to pick the car up it was in the process of a retest which I watched. My first indication something was wrong came when it was on the rolling road with the brake lights illuminated but it didn't stop. Anyway the guy completes the MOT and wanders over to his colleagues - he said 'I've passed it but the brake pedal went all the way to the floor and I had nothing' ... ...

This piqued my interest as I'm sure it would anyones, I then watched them rush around, take the rear passenger side wheel off and bleed the brakes. They came over and said 'there was a small air bubble in the line but it's fine now' - the guy took it for a quick test drive then handed me the keys. 

My concern is that if the pedal went 'all the way to the floor' and he had 'nothing' then would a full bleed be needed? Baring in mind they changed a caliper and changed the entire brake fluid system. The brakes work now - but there is a fair bit of travel in the pedal before they start to slow the car. 

I would appreciate any advice or thoughts? I've been less than impressed with them overall, they polished the headlamp as it failed on the lens being defective and have left the polish spray all over the car. They also went to take it off the ramp and as the back wheels went into the rolling road the front of the car caught on the central jack - so god only knows what that hit, sump, exhaust manifold? >.<

 

I have nearly always sorted my own brake issues as i was taught to do when i was in my late teens, i am now 65. However i have found out that Audi/VW brakes are a bit tricky to bleed, but still manage it. Last year i put a new rear axle on my Audi a3, and replaced everything on that new axle, suspension, wheel hubs. brake pipes. I only replaced the brake calipers a few years ago, so reused them. I find bleeding is not easy on Audi's and VW's, and have encountered the same issues on the odd occasion the garage has worked on them. The brake pedal can be very spongy. But after driving it for a few days, it corrects itself. At worst, it took nearly two weeks, that was after last years rear axle change. I suggest drive very careful for a week or two, and it should correct itself.

Nice one REG. !   A man after my own heart.  75 and still at it ...    and i work out in the road ...   weather is the killer and of course the eyes dont get any better either.  Keeps you fit !!    Nice one ...   regards stefan

6 minutes ago, A3SPORT said:

Nice one REG. !   A man after my own heart.  75 and still at it ...    and i work out in the road ...   weather is the killer and of course the eyes dont get any better either.  Keeps you fit !!    Nice one ...   regards stefan

I do struggle a lot because i am disabled and cannot sit up or stand for long, it took me a month to do that rear axle job with a little help at times from my son and using his ramp. But it gave me self satisfaction to have done it myself as i have done since i was 20. I'm sure you feel the same ?

Regards Reg

Exactly REG ! you know that the job has been done properly , and gives you a heads up as to any other issues whilst in there. I have never taken a car into a garage for repair. Only MOT test after my usual check overs following each years regular service /repairs by myself including belts etc. Last 25 years i have never seen an MOT fail,and only one advisory ,that being a nail in a rear tyre i did not see !  I got my licence at 19 yrs of age and all my service / repairs are self learnt (the hard way ) . I do not regret this , but spent many thousands of hours on my back over the years ,and always dreamed of a day that i would own a poster lift ...  still waiting .. !!!    I think all of this now , in an era of cars being serviced and repaired  needing access to specialised equipment and tools, will soon be gone. Older cars easier to work on but old is old , and all eventually fall to the problem of electrics/looms issues.   All can be overcome with time and money ,but this defeats the object financially .  In the short term as i have just got the car,im still looking to do as much as i can myself , and have discovered a very limited access to parts lists and any parts being sold to end users via companies. Any extra sites online for parts OEM numbers and diagrams very welcome from others if possiible , this may help other members too .Keep up the good work reg ..  once you stop the fitness level deteriorates rapidly. Happy spannering  ..     wish you all the best ... regards stefan

Reg/Stephan.

Your experiences make interesting reading, but may I ask you to keep them out of this topic which is trying to help Leah with her possibly dangerous brakes. The Club Lounge forum may be a more suitable place for reminiscing.

On 2/14/2026 at 8:57 AM, spartacus 68 said:

Let’s assume you know nothing about the history of the car, only that it didn’t have an MOT and it was retested?

For brakes after a major leak, then bleeding from just one caliper could still cause issues and a ‘soft pedal’ with air somewhere in the system. It sounds like the garage just wanted the job done quickly.

Bleeding brakes requires starting at wheel furthest from brake fluid reservoir, then finishing at wheel closest to reservoir. There’s also a process in VCDS to bleed the ABS pump. It would be worth getting the brakes bled properly, which means running at least a litre of DOT4 fluid through it. Normally it’s around £100.

For those that are spanner handy, then a Draper bleed tool is very handy, in the respect it keeps the reservoir permanently topped up while doing the job. Given the car is 2008, I’d invest in new brake nipples too. They are invariably damaged or worn. Run a smear of ceramic grease on the threads before fitting.

Thank you, this really helps. 

I didn't know anything about the history of the car, only that I would rather this than the Fiat 500 which was the other option - even if this did need some work for the MOT!

I've spoken to a local garage, they have said I can take it in tomorrow and they will have a look at the brakes for me. The original garage is nearly 20 miles away and although legal (with tax, MOT and insurance ;)) I would rather take it to the garage 1/2 mile away than 20 miles. If they say brakes are fine then I'm happy - if they identify an issue I'll speak to the original garage. 

 

Magnet (Sorry I didn't multiquote) I didn't raise the issue with the garage immediately as I wanted to take some advice on the issue first - hence this post and asking for advice. 

Sorry cliff, did not mean to hi-jack the thread ...    Hope Leah gets sorted !

Good man.

3 hours ago, tinysomniac said:

Thank you, this really helps. 

I didn't know anything about the history of the car, only that I would rather this than the Fiat 500 which was the other option - even if this did need some work for the MOT!

You’ve probably dodged a bullet on the Fiat 500. Honestly, they are not like older style Fiats in terms of build, and don’t tend to survive north of the Equator! My eldest daughter had a 2009 Fiat 500 and my youngest daughter had a 2012 Punto. Both needed oil sumps due to corrosion. You can’t leave it, if you lose oil, you risk seizing the engine.

Incredible as that might seem, there’s no engine undertray on these cars. I think the metal they use was a can of peach slices in a different life!

Older style Audi’s can be a labour of love, but if you service them, they tend to run and run. Anyway, best of luck and hopefully you get it resolved.

If it were me, I'd get it through MOT again. There are some deals one can find on the web that make it a relatively small expense.
I trust the MOT process.
The help you are getting from that other garage - I bet there's a way for them to weasel out if, God forbid, your breaks fail after they cleared them for use... Especially if they don't charge you for taking a look (I am not a lawyer but something about "zero payment = zero expectation", etc...).

Unless I misread what you wrote:
1. The car had issues with breaks
2. Their work didn't inspire confidence in you
3. They did a partial bleed - which doesn't make sense
4. They retested the breaks by driving the car - well, just because the car kinda stops when you try it on a parking lot, doesn't mean the breaks are worthy!
5. You feel the breaks don't stop the car on the first bit of pedal travel - of all the bangers I've ever owned, none of them did this, even after hydraulics jobs - this is unacceptable

That being said, knowing a garage that is so lenient about MOTs would have saved me a lot of money by now 😉
The garages in my area will fail an MOT if the ashtray is full 😉 
 

Edited February 26Feb 26 by DraxDomax

What’s the latest news than Leah?

 

On 2/13/2026 at 9:28 AM, tinysomniac said:

I bought my A3 at the end of January and it didn't have an MOT - I booked the car in for an MOT at a garage and drove it straight over. Anyway, after a lot of chasing it eventually had an MOT and a quote for work to be done including a new rear caliper, pads and discs all-round and a full brake fluid change. 

When I went to pick the car up it was in the process of a retest which I watched. My first indication something was wrong came when it was on the rolling road with the brake lights illuminated but it didn't stop. Anyway the guy completes the MOT and wanders over to his colleagues - he said 'I've passed it but the brake pedal went all the way to the floor and I had nothing' ... ...

This piqued my interest as I'm sure it would anyones, I then watched them rush around, take the rear passenger side wheel off and bleed the brakes. They came over and said 'there was a small air bubble in the line but it's fine now' - the guy took it for a quick test drive then handed me the keys. 

My concern is that if the pedal went 'all the way to the floor' and he had 'nothing' then would a full bleed be needed? Baring in mind they changed a caliper and changed the entire brake fluid system. The brakes work now - but there is a fair bit of travel in the pedal before they start to slow the car. 

I would appreciate any advice or thoughts? I've been less than impressed with them overall, they polished the headlamp as it failed on the lens being defective and have left the polish spray all over the car. They also went to take it off the ramp and as the back wheels went into the rolling road the front of the car caught on the central jack - so god only knows what that hit, sump, exhaust manifold? >.<

 

Yeah don't go back to that garage. And I'm definitely sounds like there's still air in the brake lines or the fluid level is not correct. Also check the position of the bleeder screw on your calipers they should be at the top. If they're not in that position then they could have installed the calipers backwards or upside down and that could also cause the lack of firmness that we like to feel when we hit the brakes