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Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi they are always a pain as the water from the washer rots everything try a good soak in plusgas then use a deep socket, other than that its a new motor. Steve

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

Too true, what would be worse is an eco boost with a powershift auto gearbox!

PS; it’s not really safe to drive at all TBH with collapsed suspension on 1 side, and defo not at any speed over 30. My Allroad had the tyre rubbing on the wheel arch when it blew a bag. sorry!

My settings are already on the least sensitive. Still happens. Doesn’t real worry me though. I’m keeping it into its fourth year now as I quite like it and nothing within a reasonable price that is compatible came up. I’ve got exactly 12 months to plan what’s next…

I put it down to the camera maybe picking up something that it couldn’t decifer, or maybe dust / dirt obstructing it. It’s never caused any issues. I think this has been brought up on here previously with no real conclusion.

Hello Mick, Thanks for joining, but without being dismissive, you really should entrust this issue to your supplying dealer. You will have/will be paying a lot of funds for this new vehicle, and you really should not be expected to trouble-shoot issues with it. Have you contacted them? Kind regards, Gareth.

Further update on the 7 Speed S-Tronic DL-501 issue ...... I haven't been able to get the adaption re-done yet after the full gearbox and both filters service as Matt with VCDS has been incredibly busy with his day job, but the one thing I will say after using the car for a few weeks now is it is incredibly smoother than it was before the service and the first VCDS mild adaption, no longer does it thump from second to first and even in reverse there seems to be a definite difference in the take up of the gear, especially on a slope, something it didn't like doing at all before the service, I am genuinely surprised how fresh filters and proper manufacturer recommended "MEYLE" DSG OIL can make that much of a difference, I haven't taken it on a long run yet and got everything in the gearbox up to a constant temperature and speed but around town driving is noticeably much smoother. As it started to fail on me and throw the dreaded yellow warning light on the dash after long motorway cruising I don't want to count my chickens too soon, but I'm hopeful that with a final and Full VCDS Gears Adaption my problem may well be pretty much sorted, as usual will keep posting updates for other members ......... 🤔

Thinking of selling my 1990 Coupe E, looking for some guidance on value if possible. 180k miles, starts and runs fine, been sat in garage for several years, original wheels, manual replaced gearbox. Tired interior and age related scratches on body but solid, no rust.

Hi I would definitely get some body in that line of work to look at it and tell you realtime what's been done, never been a fan of mapping as half the clowns out there have no idea what they are doing or what the long term implications of their work is, are you still getting codes? Steve.

A(nonymous). Given that this thread is over seven years old it is unlikely you will get a response from the originator. Nevertheless there are some useful suggestions in it. Have you tried any of them?

Hi Natasha and welcome, this forum has a lot of info on Q7 ownership and its pitfalls as well as solutions to those pitfalls. Steve.

Hi Andy unfortunately not, Audi have all the codes for every model from 2011 up and wont supply that information to any outside key suppliers, its not like the old days when you got a dummy key and just coded the new transducer in that key via the ignition. Steve.

Ok thanks for reply. Took it to main dealer and of course diagnostic test did not reveal malfunction so advised to monitor it. However, later I did notice that if I pull handle hard it seems to stop it from locking but I still do not think this should be necessary so will see how it goes.

Getting my lock system replaced at the local Audi garage on my A6 2021 .. had the same problem

Hi , 2017 a6 with the same leak on both sides of the car , running down A frame and into foot well . The water as I'm sure is the same for most gets in where the water flow / level becomes to much for the drain and builds up ( doesn't take much ) it overflows to the inside of the wind defector and the leak gets in where there is a steel spring finger . Water gets in where it locates towards the front .... BUT regardless of that , iv found at the rear of the spring finger , under hole is a 10mm × 10mm square hole in the frame on both sides which flows directly in onto the headliner. Joke of a design. I'm working on a fix at the minute 🤞

Ditto what Gareth wrote. Let me add that it is always wise to change the water pump belt at the same time as the cambelt because the same expensive work is needed to access them both.

Hi it took so long because the software to run electric power steering was not that well developed, if mechanical steering fails you can still steer, on the early electrical steering if it fails you are stuck, the main reason for the development of electric steering was emissions as it wont require the engine to drive the pump thus pushing up engine emissions and electric steering has been about on production cars since about 2008. Steve.

remapping with adblue delete should help,

For sale: 2003 Audi A3 Quattro Sport 1.9 TDI (130 BHP) 3 door hatchback The car has fairly low mileage for its age (not quite146,000 miles). Careful lady owner from 2007 to present (1 prior owner) Purchased in 2007 the car is still running well and has been serviced at makers specified intervals. (Full service history available). MOT covers up to 11 November 2024. Latest regular cambelt & water pump replacement was January 2021 (@135,800 miles). Reconditioned gearbox & new clutch in January 2022 (@139,900 miles). All road springs have been renewed. Suspension bushes renewed. New headlamp housings were fitted in 2017. New battery was fitted in February 2023 (5 year guarantee). New front tyres in November 2023. (Rear tyres have over 60% tread remaining). Minor mechanical repairs were addressed as required during ownership, & details can be provided. There are a few very minor bodywork ‘dings’. Alarm removed for repair (available). Fuel & temp gauges under reading. Love this car but reluctantly selling as we don’t have space for it any more. Looking for best offer of £1,000 plus for this rare A3 variant.

Hi everyone, I'm not an Audi owner yet, but that's about to change as I just pulled the trigger on a 2023 A5 Sportback. After 8 years of driving SUVs, I'm looking forward to something that goes round corners properly!

Yes agree re navigation software. I do know the Audi garage did update the software including MMI software but whether that is latest (unlikely) is anybody's guess and was just pleased I could use android auto wirelessly (plus fixing maps / navigation issues). The only OTA updates I have seen are for the navigation maps and each of those has been successful. If you are picking up from a dealer I would ask them to sort it out for you - I know mine have been great when I have asked them.

Heres how I did mine on my previous car. The sensor was just over a tenner on eBay. You’ll need to scroll about halfway down the page when it opens. https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/threads/project-audi.348112/page-9

Well Steve, someone said I could be like a good wine, and will improve with age - I don’t believe it - but I am still blessing every day where I’m still able to do what I want to do. Some things are impossible, despite what my mind tells me! Take care and kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Gareth nothing wrong with ancient , look at us we are still functioning, don't knock it. Steve.

Yes history looks all ok just looking for a car that looks the part, goes, peanuts on tax and way less fuel cost compared to my 3.0L Discovery 4.

Problem resolved. I replace the tailgate lock. My conclusion is that the lock did not "signal" door open and this causes the towbar to not release etc....

Hi have you tried eBay with that part number they have loads of them.

Lovely to meet everyone. Recently purchased an RS4 Carbon Black Avant (2020). Certainly more interesting than my wife's 1.2T Fiesta.. 👋

Will do, looking forward to getting it back but I feel my ownership may not last long at this point as garage has advised me to get fixed and get gone, but that would mean I’d lose a fair bit in the short time I’ve had it, and I’d just put 4 new tires on.

The low oil consumption suggests the engine is in reasonable condition for its age, and in standard form would likely not have high CO emissions. Therefore I'd say your modifications are responsible for the problem, and the solution is to restore the engine to standard form.

Well I'd like to say the oil that came out of the gearbox was a golden dark brown, but in reality almost black, so definitely needed doing, but nothing untoward on the magnets and filters were slightly dirty as to be expected, but not all clogged up or mishapen. The complete MEYLE service kit may be a little more expensive than others, but is has literally everything you need, right down to rubber O rings and copper washers, new bolts, 2 x filter housings, perfectly fitting metal gasket with locating lugs same as factory spec, and of course 7 litres of OE spec oil. Just awaiting a slot to get the VCDS adaption done again, don't think its going to cure my problem to be honest, if the gearbox could speak it would mock me with words such as " So you think you can throw a couple of hundred pounds at me and I'm going to perform for you .... Come back when you have a couple of thousand" 😣 To be continued .............

Yea an Audi independent is an option or an auto electrican

Hi no such thing as a crank sensor without a wiring connector otherwise it wont work, you have to find the remains of the original wiring the sensor is normally by either the crank pulley or where the gearbox joins the engine. Steve.

A couple of things to bear in mind …if there’s no exhaust parts hanging down /loose, Maybe a stone trapped between brake disc and backing plate ! It happened to me once! Maybe a damaged backing plate making contact with a brake disc? I noticed a squealing sound at one point … maybe a sticking brake calliper? Are any of your brake disc getting exceptionally hot?

On the AdBlue topic, you can get the no restart message flashed out of the ECU at a fraction of the cost of replacement parts. Give Andy at https://ecuflash.co a call. On the wider get rid or keep topic, I’ll never buy another Audi again. 16 plate B9 (actually B8.5 according to it’s car plate). Owned for 5ish years and I’ve put 50k on it. 80k in total. I’ve spent about 7k keeping it on the road, fixing issues that shouldn’t be there for a car this age and mileage. Not including “on-the-road costs” like tyres. -Had the brake servo/abs issue. -Had the AdBlue issue. -Odometer failed and had to be replaced. -2 broken rear coil springs. -Have the issue with low interior heat. -5 (yes five) new sets of front discs/pads due to excessive warping. -1 new calliper. I can go on, but suffice to say my experience of “Vorsprung durch Technik” is actually “our technology is crap”.

If you wanted to keep the Audi’s reg and identity, it would be classified as *significant* changes to the suspension, running gear, powertrain etc which would mean an engineer’s report and IVA according to memory. However, it is perfectly legal to alter the body around as you wish so using the identity from the Isuzu would be less onerous. Not pain free, but less pain than the other way round. The rules about major components are what you need to read as well. Points for various bits and you need to score enough to avoid a Q plate. Finding a 2.8 diesel Trooper that hasn’t disintegrated into microscopic flakes of rust is also going to be a mission. I went through similar converting a Land Rover from a 2.25 petrol to 5.9 Cummins 6BT diesel. Having a friendly MOT guy to advise on various aspects was very helpful. And no, I wouldn’t do it again 😀 But good luck if you go for it.

Thank you so much. Will look into them. Sorry to hear you've been ill. Hope you're recovering now? I'd suspended work on the A6 in the short term whilst I've been doing the house up and getting prepped for our new (first) arrival.