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Anyone interested in going to this show? Has been great in the past. This year's Jap Vs German with Rogue Static's own twist is back again at our newest venue Aldwinians rugby club in Manchester. bringing the people of Manchester some stunning motors and a great atmosphere all aimed at for the love of cars, don't have a Jap or German motor? not an issue we welcome everyone. We are asking for £5 per car on entry, which will all be donated to our fantastic charity "SSAFA the armed forces charity" who we have proudly supported for years now. there will be trades, food and facilities as per usual with our events, please be aware that the pitch is out of bounds but we are now able to place light vehicles on the apron near the pitch which now gives us more vehicular room than last time. our marshalls and event staff will all have two way radios in case of emergency and all relevant R.A.M.S have been supplied to the venue. So with that all taken care of all you have to do is click going, pop it on your calendar and show up 😁 Traders confirmed: MAS Decals Swan Lady 3D Scratch entertainment (aka DJ Liam) Virtual Rides (VR rollercoaster) Squid Ink Detailing The Coffee Guy And our special guest Dan Red Media we have three Handcrafted awards to give out too: Best Japanese car Best German Car Best in Show This is a static event and we keep to our policy of park up keys out whilst attending our events anyone caught being a !Removed! will be asked to leave and escorted from the venue, better it's us than the venues manager 😉 no tickets just pay in entry our staff will be on hand with donations buckets when you arrive and throughout the day every little can help those in need greatly and we thank you all in advance.

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi everyone fault has been repaired by Abz Audi ,costs covered by Ayr Audi .the problem was caused by faulty abs sensor wiring loom ,great result regards AR

@Steph1234 my dealership is Huntingdon Audi. I am awaiting a response from Ferzana from Audi Executive, she's written to apologise for the delay, no surprise they are inundated with complaints!

Hi they are always a pain as the water from the washer rots everything try a good soak in plusgas then use a deep socket, other than that its a new motor. Steve

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Hi take the screw out of the other side most motor motor parts stores will be able to match it. Steve.

Sure thing. Think he’s looking for £150. BNIB obviously.

How old is the battery? If the battery is starting to fail it can throw up various electrical issues.

Too true, what would be worse is an eco boost with a powershift auto gearbox!

PS; it’s not really safe to drive at all TBH with collapsed suspension on 1 side, and defo not at any speed over 30. My Allroad had the tyre rubbing on the wheel arch when it blew a bag. sorry!

Good Morning Mick. Gareth is definitely right. We both paid Audi an armful of money for these GT's. So they should look after their product. However, I found that when mine was new you had to be sure that the charge plug was fully home in the socket and that there was no tension on the charge cable. I have had mine nearly a year now and the charge port and plug fit nice and smoothly. Tony

Hi its the sealing ring, most likely they did not change it with the unit problem being that you have to buy the seal separately and they are quite expensive, its either the seal or they have damaged the locking ring that holds the pump in when they re tightened it, the third hole looks like a breather, easiest way to check is get a small length of wire and push it into the hole and see if it bottoms out, if it does its the seal. Steve.

Further update on the 7 Speed S-Tronic DL-501 issue ...... I haven't been able to get the adaption re-done yet after the full gearbox and both filters service as Matt with VCDS has been incredibly busy with his day job, but the one thing I will say after using the car for a few weeks now is it is incredibly smoother than it was before the service and the first VCDS mild adaption, no longer does it thump from second to first and even in reverse there seems to be a definite difference in the take up of the gear, especially on a slope, something it didn't like doing at all before the service, I am genuinely surprised how fresh filters and proper manufacturer recommended "MEYLE" DSG OIL can make that much of a difference, I haven't taken it on a long run yet and got everything in the gearbox up to a constant temperature and speed but around town driving is noticeably much smoother. As it started to fail on me and throw the dreaded yellow warning light on the dash after long motorway cruising I don't want to count my chickens too soon, but I'm hopeful that with a final and Full VCDS Gears Adaption my problem may well be pretty much sorted, as usual will keep posting updates for other members ......... 🤔

Hi Sorry it’s been a while since I logged in. They eventually found a very small oil leak from a seal on the drive shaft that was spitting oil onto the turbo. They had to remove the engine to fix it. ive since got rid of the A6 and am driving an A3 instead. I’m just pretty sure Audi make great smaller cars but the quality control in the big ones is just not good enough. declan

Hi I would definitely get some body in that line of work to look at it and tell you realtime what's been done, never been a fan of mapping as half the clowns out there have no idea what they are doing or what the long term implications of their work is, are you still getting codes? Steve.

Glad you got sorted 🙂 If it's any consolation I get my wife to take her jaguar to have her xe adblue topped up, as jags are known for adblue system issues. This has saved us twice when the system has gone faulty and they've had to drain the tank, reset the sensor and top it back up FOC twice. My rationale is, if they do it then we can't be blamed for it being over filled or wrong adblue fluid added etc.

Hi Natasha and welcome, this forum has a lot of info on Q7 ownership and its pitfalls as well as solutions to those pitfalls. Steve.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

I solved the vibration of the airbag at low revs by lining the space under the airbags with this packing foam. It's quiet for now. 🙂

Not a lot to go with there Matt. Oil level light? Oil pressure light?

Hi thats not the service position thats the motor knackered, they don't have a service position, this is a well known problem as its a bad design a percentage of water gets past the spindle seal and terminates the motor. Steve.

Thanks Cameron, Take it you have searched EBay, and registered your ‘Want’ on on-line breaker link systems such as Partsfinder - there are more. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

NICE B5 BUD

Hi Steve, I personally would not go anywhere near that one it looks like cheap trouble until you get the bill for the rebuild, go for a later engine thats got some history and runs, not some vague statement that it did and then spent an indeterminate time in storage, no milage, I think he wants to go to the pub on someones £80, I have made the same mistake in the past especially when driven by desperation, take your time send your cash wisely and make sure what goes in at least works. Steve

Audi Coventry run the diagnostics and found no faults. So I went to Rugby services to try their 350kwh charger... and it charged perfectly. Then I realised that the charger cable was on the right and plugged easily into the DC charging port on the right (drivers) side of my etron as I had entered the bay nose first. I recall the chargers that had been problematic at Woolley Edge and Wetherby had cables on the left side and it was quite a stretch to drag them across the bonnet to plug in as they wanted to retract. So I surmise that was the issue i.e. the charging cable was not properly seated. Next time I will reverse in if I use these chargers.

Hi it took so long because the software to run electric power steering was not that well developed, if mechanical steering fails you can still steer, on the early electrical steering if it fails you are stuck, the main reason for the development of electric steering was emissions as it wont require the engine to drive the pump thus pushing up engine emissions and electric steering has been about on production cars since about 2008. Steve.

Thanks Gareth

Yes agree re navigation software. I do know the Audi garage did update the software including MMI software but whether that is latest (unlikely) is anybody's guess and was just pleased I could use android auto wirelessly (plus fixing maps / navigation issues). The only OTA updates I have seen are for the navigation maps and each of those has been successful. If you are picking up from a dealer I would ask them to sort it out for you - I know mine have been great when I have asked them.

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. If you've bought it from a dealer then they have to fix it foc in the first 30 days from sale as you're still entitled to a full refund within that time.

Hi on the other hand you could just try converting it to standard shocks if you only buy one side thats a no,no as shockers are always replaced in pairs, I found shocks on eBay that came with the caps for far less than the price for just one, standard shocks give you the option of Bilstein, Monroe, Sachs which are all the same if not better. Mag ride is a gimmick that sounds wonderful in theory but its only an electrical current passed into the oil which makes the metal floating in the oil bond so it gives the relief valve a far greater volume to deal with therefore stiffening the flow, Monotube shocks are far better as they are gas over oil and give more progressive damping and better tyre contact, can't beat a bit of Bilstein. Steve.

Software version is 3620 MMI software version is release-35.12-2126-SNAPSHOT-28.06.2021-13:58:42 Navigation database is V03959822FK_P1140_EU_2024.03 Since having it updated I now have Android Auto wirelessly which I didn't before (had to connect a cable) Hope this helps !

Called garage and asked they are happy taking my car and waiting for the new V5. So happy days. Thanks bud.

Sorry Full Service History and 2 Owners

The low oil consumption suggests the engine is in reasonable condition for its age, and in standard form would likely not have high CO emissions. Therefore I'd say your modifications are responsible for the problem, and the solution is to restore the engine to standard form.

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

Hello there!

On the AdBlue topic, you can get the no restart message flashed out of the ECU at a fraction of the cost of replacement parts. Give Andy at https://ecuflash.co a call. On the wider get rid or keep topic, I’ll never buy another Audi again. 16 plate B9 (actually B8.5 according to it’s car plate). Owned for 5ish years and I’ve put 50k on it. 80k in total. I’ve spent about 7k keeping it on the road, fixing issues that shouldn’t be there for a car this age and mileage. Not including “on-the-road costs” like tyres. -Had the brake servo/abs issue. -Had the AdBlue issue. -Odometer failed and had to be replaced. -2 broken rear coil springs. -Have the issue with low interior heat. -5 (yes five) new sets of front discs/pads due to excessive warping. -1 new calliper. I can go on, but suffice to say my experience of “Vorsprung durch Technik” is actually “our technology is crap”.

Anybody know where I can get my gearbox mechatronics unit checked as I have lost my reverse gear and have a warning sign audi talking thousands of van need a quick fix west Midlands area anybody body know a good mechanic for the job

Thank you 😊 lol, well I'm hoping I'll be able to get it back on the road asap as I want to bring my daughter along to the shows. Oh bless ya, hope you get better soon. Definitely, wife and I have been wanting children for the last 7 years.

Hi all, I have an update... Lol Loud scraping noise = destroyed Balance Shaft Chain & Crank Cog Teeth. Remedy = New Timing Chain & Crank Cog. I did the work myself, which took an age of learning and an age of fixing, but it's all good now. 😁 Thanks, Paul.

Hi Guy's, I'm a Car Audio specialist (42 years) & upgrade the Audio systems in Audi's all the time, I'm also an Audi A4 3.0 Tdi (B7) Quattro S-Line owner in Kent so I'm deffo not touting for any business, particularly as you guys are far away from me anyway! But I would gladly give some advice if needed? Particularly if you are going to attemp to do this yourself etc! Not only on what I would recommend you do or don't look at buying (Budget wise) but also and more importantly the many additional things to know about Your Audi A4. I.e. Once the original Concert, Chorus or Symphony single or double din Audio Head unit is removed there is quite allot to add or compensate for to add an aftermarket system to all Audi vehicles and not just a simple matter of buying a new head unit and a correct single or double din fascia panel! For example, all Audi vehicles are either half amplified or fully amped (Bose) also phantom (amplified AM/FM antenna) Also the original audio unit will have no acc - ignition feed present in either the earlier A4 - B6 (iso connectors) or the Facelift B7 onward (Fakra -Quadlock 40 way connector) Double din units, the ignition on for all Audi's is achieved via the can bus data pair the goes to the head unit and there is no ignition 12v feed as such that is required to switch on an aftermarket replacement head unit, you can cheat by running a seperate ignition feed to the new audio head unit via the fuse box but this is not a good way of doing it! You will need at least a slim key Can Bus ignition interface at around £45 or if your vehicle has multi function steering wheel commands you will need a Can Bus Steering command interface unit on either ISO or Fakra depending etc These cost about £70.00 but worth getting! You will also need either a full Bose Amplifier retention patch harness or a Half amped patch (otherwise you won't have any rear speaker audio). This would apply to the A3, A4, TT old A6 etc, A4 convertible can be different again even post 2006 to the standard A4 2006 B7 as they follow the audio platform of the 2005 A4 (B6) Confused? Yeah Audi's are real good fun & even doing this daily even I get confused & have to double check all on the vehicle before I quote for any installation of audio change or adding a Parrot Mki bluetooth hf unit! Everyone says Audi are same as VW... "Oh No they deffo are NOT! They are quite unique between the family of VAG & Skoda, Seat etc that are indeed same as VW. Audi however keep us thinking. If you are attemping to install a quality brand of aftermarket head unit such as Kenwood, Pioneer Sony, Alpine or even JVC I'll gladly answer any questions you may have and fire away I'm all ears and will help or advise if I can. If however you have bought one of those awful eBuy Chinese Xtron or similar £199.00 rubbish Android retro (bootfair quality units) send it back now and demand a refund or take it to a field & shoot it. I'm not interested as you can't make a silk purse out of a pigs ear etc * _ *