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From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Gary. You have asked several questions over the past few months. We would appreciate some feedback to indicate what success you have had in solving your problems. Perhaps even some thanks if we have helped?

Hi Joss, You went large with the 550! The Audi is a really nice car, but its main advantages are being younger, less miles, less tatty and better maintained than the E61 - which I couldn't justify spending money on towards the end. Although the BMW had more BHP (when it was new) than the Audi, the supercharger + quattro means the acceleration is certainly quicker with the 3.0. In my reality, that's better than the silky smooth 100mph+ cruising that the V8 was clearly capable of, because I live nowhere near an Autobahn. It's hard to beat the E61 for space, comfort, handling and looks that really aged well (do you remember how controversial the Chris Bangle styling was when they first came out?). Comparisons on fuel economy are striking, but boring. Even the standard MMI amps/speakers in the Audi are a big improvement of the BMW (standard) audio - and the Audi has Bluetooth/Aux. I was using a cigarette-lighter FM transmitter in the BMW! I decided to wait until my insurance came up for renewal to see what the bump would be for declaring the chip tuning as a modification. Although I must say that, after over a thousand very pleasurable miles, I've been chasing an overheating issue in the Audi for the last few days (thermostat and/or poor seal from cheap after-market expansion tank cap I think). So I'm giving more consideration to reliability and being gentle to the car alongside the previous thought of "seems a bit silly not to unlock an extra 100 bhp for a few hundred quid! " as you eloquently put it! Thanks for the conversation and I'll check out Phantom Tuning. Cheers

A(nonymous). Given that this thread is over seven years old it is unlikely you will get a response from the originator. Nevertheless there are some useful suggestions in it. Have you tried any of them?

Hi could be the delete and remap are causing the problem all airflow and exhaust flows are monitored against each other if the exhaust gas is escaping to fast the the o2 sensor can't read it properly, thinking behind this is all DPF deletes involve physical removal of some or all of the DPF core. Steve.

Glad you got sorted 🙂 If it's any consolation I get my wife to take her jaguar to have her xe adblue topped up, as jags are known for adblue system issues. This has saved us twice when the system has gone faulty and they've had to drain the tank, reset the sensor and top it back up FOC twice. My rationale is, if they do it then we can't be blamed for it being over filled or wrong adblue fluid added etc.

Correct it can only be done by main dealer. Expect to Psy £500

Bill. The Audi service schedule is more or less all you need do to keep it in decent condition, though I would add two caveats: 1/ Change the cambelt ahead of schedule if it has not been replaced for a few years. Even though the car may not have reached the recommended mileage, (you have not mentioned the actual distance covered since the belt was last changed,) belts can degrade even when not used. Given the consequences of belt failure abroad it makes sense to my mind to change it in advance. 2/ Take the car for a fast motorway journey of about half an hour well before your next continental holiday. That will reveal any faults that may need to be sorted out before you go abroad.

Not a lot to go with there Matt. Oil level light? Oil pressure light?

Getting my lock system replaced at the local Audi garage on my A6 2021 .. had the same problem

Hi thats not the service position thats the motor knackered, they don't have a service position, this is a well known problem as its a bad design a percentage of water gets past the spindle seal and terminates the motor. Steve.

Hi guys, first time here, just seeing if anyone was interested in my FiL’s A4. He’s lovingly looked after it from new, first registered in September 2000, stacks of paperwork and only 94,000 miles. He’s only selling as has finally taken the plunge and bought a new Q2 (at age 83!) so this is no boy racer car. Rare-ish 2.4 petrol, runs well, tax to September, MOT until July. Bad points - slight scuff to front wing, little bit of bubbling on roof, but nothing you’d not expect for a 24-year-old car. Garaged every day, and Audi of course offered peanuts for it. Tbh he’d rather see it go to a good home. Currently located in Redcar. Please inbox with any questions, I’ve tried to be honest but I’m not a specialist so please let me know if I can help. Cheers.

Hi , 2017 a6 with the same leak on both sides of the car , running down A frame and into foot well . The water as I'm sure is the same for most gets in where the water flow / level becomes to much for the drain and builds up ( doesn't take much ) it overflows to the inside of the wind defector and the leak gets in where there is a steel spring finger . Water gets in where it locates towards the front .... BUT regardless of that , iv found at the rear of the spring finger , under hole is a 10mm × 10mm square hole in the frame on both sides which flows directly in onto the headliner. Joke of a design. I'm working on a fix at the minute 🤞

Hello Charlie, Yes, the new battery has to be coded to the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

You quote "same model as you" the 80 wing is the same across the 80 B4 range, including saloon, ragtop and Avant to be precise part number is 8A0821106. You quote "not requiring any paintwork rectification" This is something you have said, not me. Other than that, thank you for your wishes Gareth.

just to let you know i now have a reversing light!!! Was a bad connection at the bulb holder for the reversing bulb a little bending of the metal strips and all good Many thx again for your help much appreciated

Good Morning I have a partition net/dog guard ( part number 4G9 861 691 94 H) suitable for A6 Avant. Free of Charge if anybody would like it. Also I have an Autochair mobility scooter hoist for the A6 Avant. Cost £1400 also free of charge, this comes with modified rear boot screen and side panel, to anybody who needs it. Tony

Thanks Gareth

Well Steve, someone said I could be like a good wine, and will improve with age - I don’t believe it - but I am still blessing every day where I’m still able to do what I want to do. Some things are impossible, despite what my mind tells me! Take care and kind regards, Gareth.

Hi on the other hand you could just try converting it to standard shocks if you only buy one side thats a no,no as shockers are always replaced in pairs, I found shocks on eBay that came with the caps for far less than the price for just one, standard shocks give you the option of Bilstein, Monroe, Sachs which are all the same if not better. Mag ride is a gimmick that sounds wonderful in theory but its only an electrical current passed into the oil which makes the metal floating in the oil bond so it gives the relief valve a far greater volume to deal with therefore stiffening the flow, Monotube shocks are far better as they are gas over oil and give more progressive damping and better tyre contact, can't beat a bit of Bilstein. Steve.

Software version is 3620 MMI software version is release-35.12-2126-SNAPSHOT-28.06.2021-13:58:42 Navigation database is V03959822FK_P1140_EU_2024.03 Since having it updated I now have Android Auto wirelessly which I didn't before (had to connect a cable) Hope this helps !

Called garage and asked they are happy taking my car and waiting for the new V5. So happy days. Thanks bud.

3% carbon monoxide is extraordinarily high. What was the CO level before you changed the induction system? The engine is getting on a bit at 175000 miles. What is the oil consumption? Does it smoke? Does it still have a functional EGR valve? Has the engine been modified in other ways?

Welcome, and thanks for joining Michael. I’ve always used VAG’s brand - Quantum - and see no reason to try anything else. Check that the grade required is 5w/30. I always buy from reputable sellers on EBay, and order the Longlife 3. Would suggest using Mann or similar (German branded) filters, and yes, I would change every two years. I cover about the same mileage in a non- Audi, used only for summer months, and that is my regime for that car. Kind regards, Gareth.

going to be a few weeks, as a fw bits to do for work

A couple of things to bear in mind …if there’s no exhaust parts hanging down /loose, Maybe a stone trapped between brake disc and backing plate ! It happened to me once! Maybe a damaged backing plate making contact with a brake disc? I noticed a squealing sound at one point … maybe a sticking brake calliper? Are any of your brake disc getting exceptionally hot?

It could be a back tyre issue, or any of a dozen different issues from the sparse information you have provided. Whatever the cause, if you bought the car recently take it back to the dealer you bought it from.

Diane. Have you read the whole thread? There are suggestions near its start, and questions which would help all of us to home in on your problem.

Hello Nick, As Stevey says. I been putting a dampener on anything to do with large wheels for some time, since the trend seems to be for the largest wheels and the skinniest tyres - because they look good. Yet, you cannot see the wheels when you are sat in the car, but you are the one who suffers the adverse ride quality. Add to the potential of harder sidewalls, probably XL etc. and everything gets magnified. An equally aged friend found the ride to be not to his liking on an S.Line with skinny tyres chosen for him by his children - it went back. Mind, I’d not be too happy about the expense of changing wheels and tyres, but… Interesting you mention Bridgestone, since I have been considering these on our non-Audi. For me, I want as comfortable ride as I can get from the tyres, and as much mileage as poss. so any recommendations are welcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

No vat they are a very good garage use them alot " viking motors " in rotherham they have 5 star on google thanks gareth

My local Audi is in Worthing (Roundstone). Tell your Audi Service Dept that Audi have issued a bulletin (March 2024) regarding this fault and that it has nothing to do with the stop/start generator. If they find nothing then ask them to get in touch with Audi Worthing for details. The cost of the repair (parts/labour/VAT) was around £200. Hope this is the "fix" for your fault.

OK - mystery solved !!! Initial diagnostics pointed to a faulty stop/start generator (AKA Alternator). A replacement was ordered and required shipping from Germany as none in the UK. The part was delivered and then an instruction received by my Audi garage NOT TO FIT THE PART and run another check - per Audi instructions. This new check indeed revealed the root cause of the problem that I have been experiencing. The problem was due to a defective Auxiliary Belt Tensioner. Required parts were fitted and included a replacement belt - this was more a precaution than requirement as the defective belt tensioner may have contributed to premature excessive wear. I insisted that the car was taken for an extensive test drive before taking it back. All was well - and still is. I now have the car back (after 2-3 weeks off the road while awaiting parts). Will monitor the situation, but reasonably confident that this time Audi have got it right.

Hi mate. Unfortunately (or fortunately) for me it was one of those issues that just went away itself so not quite sure what the issue was….

Anybody know where I can get my gearbox mechatronics unit checked as I have lost my reverse gear and have a warning sign audi talking thousands of van need a quick fix west Midlands area anybody body know a good mechanic for the job