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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

Does anybody else get frustrated when people post a question, get suggestions and then never come back with a follow up to say how or if the problem was solved? Surely it's only good manners and it helps people with similar problems.

I don't presume to know what you're looking for Alex, but buying an S5 will likely have a decent specification on even a base model, minus things such as sound package or panoramic sunroof. Incidentally, LED matrix isn't gimmicky lighting. Far from it, this will have been a very expensive extra from new, over and above standard LED lights with features such as full beam assist, cornering lighting, etc. This type of specification helps sell it down the line unless you're planning for this car to be a long term keeper. You asked if S5s are typical for lack of servicing. No, not necessarily, but its a 2017 plate, so a 9 year old performance car, so it pays to do your research. The original owner may have sold it, and it could have traded hands a few times or been run ragged on a track or indeed modified. Without some sort of service log, then you've absolutely no idea what the history is. In terms of history, especially on an older vehicle such as this, then if its been maintained meticulously, even by the main dealer on a database, they can give you a print out. If the previous owner(s) were old school, then a physical service record is better. Doesn't need to be garage stamps, but receipts in a folder from a VAT registered garage, or simply parts purchased, and service mileage, in some sort of chronological order. That speaks volumes. I've had quattros for years, so I understand tyre wear. Normally you replace tyres in pairs on the same axle. There's no dark science to it. A car failing on tyres tells you the owner isn't aware of condition, wear pattern or tread depth.

Thanks again Sid I also found similar but steered away from it as camera dint appear to be the same. I've sorted it now with the switch off eBay. Which can also be purchased from RS. It's an omron switch part no D2HW A201D Photos attached show the tabs soldered on to allow the original wiring harness plug to connect. Bit fiddly but it works. Link to switch on RS https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=Omron+D2HW+A201D

You may remember I sold my Audi E Tron GT at the end of August due to insurance cost (£3K) and also the RFT (£450). Incidentally it hasn't sold yet. I thought I would bid you all farewell and thank you for the info, and tips over the years I had Audis. I have just purchased a new Jeacoo J7 SHS Hybrid. It's not bad. Loads of goodies, 56 miles on electric, 700 miles total tank range, albeit I have only done 125 miles so far. It's good value, pretty good finish, but it is definitely not an Audi. Thanks for every thing. Tony

Magnet thanks for the suggestions. my sensible car has always been a Toyota RAV4 and the Audi my “Fun” car. The Toyota garage is a small independent and as I’ve been going there for 30 years and bought new from them they have agreed to look at my car to see if they can identify where the water is coming from. I will update this thread with any solution I find in case it is of use to anybody.

Had my 21 plate Q7 down tools with the same error as many of you have experienced. Dealing with the garage was as a bit of a pain, nothing was written down and no one wanted to place any blame on the part. However, I picked the car back up today with a new alternator and battery at zero cost to me from Stratford Audi. Now to follow up with Audi UK for recovery costs. Thanks for all the advice on this thread, helped a lot in saving me a significant bill.

Just a quick update on my case — I picked up the car on Tuesday. All the repairs, including diagnostics, were fully covered under the 7-year extended warranty. The newly installed BSG also comes with an additional 3-year warranty. To my surprise, when I collected the car, I found a generous gift box from Audi in the boot. It included jackets, a hat, a bottle of Moët champagne, air fresheners, a backpack, a cup, a key ring, a cleaning kit, and a few other thoughtful extras. Overall, Audi really stepped up and handled the issue to the standard I expected. I've learned my lesson and decided to take out the extended warranty plan with Audi — better safe than sorry! All in all, I’m pleased with how everything was resolved and back on the road with renewed confidence.

Issue resolved. User error. Happy to embarrass myself if it helps others....this safety label was still attached to the new battery and wouldn't complete the circuit. Thanks everyone. 🫣

Had the same issue. Just give the polystyrene holder a firm pull and it will come out.

I had an Island Green 1.4tdi, barely run in at 210,000 miles, 60mpg, sailed through MoT! All standard so don't fix which isn't broken. A fuel pump leak & lack of spares meant it had to go to WOMAUTOMOTIVE in Stoke-on-Trent who had a selection of donor cars. Our "Dinky Toy" is now back on the road with a new owner. My good lady wishes we still had the A2.

Hello Chris, It’s mint and covered 76k so, no, just don’t mess around with it. Regards, Gareth.

No idea on warranty, but I’d like to think so. If you’re spanner handy, these jobs are not difficult. Water reservoir normally accessed by removing road wheel, then inner wheel arch liner. Normally a series of Torx screws and a couple of 10mm hex nylon nuts. If the reservoir has a crack, replace. Pump usually attaches with 12v supply, with rubber pipes. It could be leaking at a pipe attachment. Main Audi dealer is £200 an hour, not including parts. This is bread and butter work for an independent garage you trust.

We don’t know your driving history to date, but £400 a month on insurance is insane, considering cost of fuel and running costs as it is. Unfortunately males under 25 are deemed high risk, and of course the area where car is left overnight and your job will also have impact. Use some of the insurance comparison sites, on a standard 1 litre car for example and see what comes back price wise. You can also add telemetric box, which means you need to drive within speed limit at all times and even when you drive. Additional advanced driving qualification may help, but ultimately you need to be over 25 with no claims to start bringing it down.

Hello Dillon, So that is £4,800/pa, add to that, the car’s depreciation over that year, and you really are into bonkers territory! I am ignoring any finance you may be paying, together with the annual road tax, and obviously the actual running costs of the car. Sorry to put it bluntly, but you are in extreme danger of running yourself into an economic disaster - unless your earnings are exceptionally high,or you are ‘of some means’. As Cliff says - assuming you have checked all comparison sites - you will need to seriously research vehicles with low insurance groupings, and cut your cloth to suit those vehicles. Really sorry to say it as I see it, but it’s madness to have to spend a significant amount of amount of your working time to ‘feed your current situation’. Regards, Gareth.

Pleasure James, I like your approach to keeping this car maintained as it should be, and not as VAG suggests ( explanations already given). Having said that, with delivery mileage only, personally I wouldn’t be getting the oil change done at handover, but waiting until September when it has a few miles under its belt. Regards, Gareth.

Audi’s service plans are very expensive. They are designed to appeal to new owners and usually a bolt on package that some people accept at purchase, especially when spending thousands on a car. The reality is somewhat different. Let’s break it down. The basic plan is £719 for two years. That buys you an oil service (basically oil and filter) and an inspection service (oil, air and pollen filter) every 9,300 miles. I’m sure there was a query on the site recently as it didn’t include spark plugs. Usually due at 40k miles. https://www.audi.co.uk/en/owners/service-and-maintenance/service-plans/ Main Audi dealer doesn’t not buy expertise. Like Frank, I moved away from main dealer garages probably 30 years ago. I can see past the branded coffee cups and courtesy wash and vacuum, and know that the £200+ per hour rate, a fraction will go to the technician. The rest pays for the franchise running costs, plus a healthy profit. As the car is new, then find a garage you trust, preferably Audi or VAG independent that know what they are doing. I’ve had similar experiences with BMW as my wife has a i3 REx. Great car and the support or rather lack of it from the main dealer was evident when there was an issue withe the generator engine. They failed to fix after three attempts. That was their master tech too. Spent over £1k and said never again. Bought ISTA software, so service both my wife’s car and VCDS to run my own. Not suggesting you break out the spanners. Maintain the warranty, especially if the car is is mild hybrid. That tech is increasingly complex. Anyway enjoy that new car feeling.

Good morning James I have just read your post this morning with interest and as you reside in Hampshire as do I, may I put an alternative to you regards the future servicing of your lovely new A6 ? I do understand your desire to look after your car and make sure it works well for many years. I am 78 years of age and have been fortunate enough to have been the owner of many fine cars in my long life, all purchased new. I stopped using Main Dealer servicing over 20 years ago and the reasons are that I refuse to pay the exhorbitant rates that they charge and also.....and just as importantly.... I'm not convinced that they offer the finest levels of expertise . Since 2006 I have owned 2 VW Phaetons, 1 Audi A8, and 2 Audi Q8's . At the moment I am the happy owner of an S5 Avant that I took delivery of four weeks ago. All of these cars were purchased new and I chose to not service any of them with Main Dealers. All were serviced and maintained to a very high level at The Village Garage Bishops Waltham. I like many other " petrol heads " on this website am not convinced by the long service regimes that Audi supposedly recommend. I endorse everything that Sparticus said in his reply to you. He's a good bloke and knows what he's doing ! So, all my cars that I have listed have had services and particuarly oil changes every 7/8000 miles. The Village Garage has been running for many years and has a fine reputation. The owner is a guy called Matt who is very clever and knowledgeable guy. And just as importantly he is a car guy who loves all things to do with high end expensive cars. I trust him completely in looking after my cars and being ultra careful when they are with him. He , in fact runs an Audi SQ5 as his personal car. Matt uses all Audi parts and as he is a listed Audi / Porsche/ VW/ Skoda specialist , you will not invalidate your Audi warranty by taking it there. Matt is able to log and reset your Audi service indicator. So, it's just a thought and I do hope you don't mind me throwing my 2 penneth in here. The plusses for me are that I believe that my car will be serviced and maintained at a higher level than it would be at an Audi Dealership and I save a ton of money as Matts rates are far lower than Audis. My missis and I have been touring Germany in the car twice a year for many years now. Our next trip which will be for 4 weeks and cover over 2000 miles will be in October and I will schedule my S5's first service with Matt just before we go. By then he will have done about 5000 miles so a complete oil change and an inspection to make sure all is well. Finally an added bonus is that Bishops Waltham is a lovely little town so whilst Matt is working on your car, you can have a quiet stroll and have a coffee and breakfast there. The above is just a thought.....and I dont have any shares in the Village Garage just in case you were suspicious 🙂 Frank

Did you get a print out of the test results for the battery’s various perimeters, and what brand is it? Was the alternator output checked at the same time? Is the car in regular daily use, and what is its normal journey pattern? Regards, Gareth.

So mudguards fitted. I think they look good. Was easy enough and managed to do it without removing wheels. However a couple of points to note. 1: when fitting the front guards, you first have to “pop” a couple of rivets on each side (keep the top rivet in situ). This is done by pushing the centre of the rivet through with a very small screwdriver. Thanks to @Das for his help on this. However the holes left behind in the bodywork were actually too big for the screws supplied with my mudguards. Luckily I had a (very) old pack of U Clips from Halfords in my toolbox and was able to use these to make the holes more useable and the mudguards very secure. Had to drill a small hole to secure the bottom of the mudguard (small enough so the supplied screws would fit) but did this once I had fitted and secured the guards using the two screws and U Clips to the side. Turning front wheel full lock will allow enough space, at least it did with my 20inch alloys. I’m sure 21’s will also be fine. 2: Rears, whilst being able to utilise the torx screws already in place, had a lot less room to work with. I ended up using an adjustable wrench and the correct torx bit. Was a bit fiddly, but got the job done. Anyway I’m very happy with the results. May not be for everyone, but I’m happy with the less shouty “dad wagon” vibe that I’m trying achieve and the mudguards add to that I think.

It's always extremely difficult to pursuade people that a battery can be defective when it still cranks the engine normally, and has a voltage of 12.4 at rest.

Afternoon all, I took the convertible off the battery tender last week and gave it an Italian tune-up along the A47 before delivering it for its MoT. I'm happy to say it passed with no advisories (as it !Removed! should, with the amount I've spent on it 😆). As I was hooking it back up to the battery tender, I was struck by the coolant expansion tank looking discoloured, so went on Amazon and, the next day, had a new one (by Febi Bilstein), along with a new cap, delivered, for a total of £26.93. The switch took half an hour or so - mostly because I was determined to do the job without losing any coolant (I don't have any spare). It's pretty simple... There is a single T20 self-tapper (ringed) holding it in place, once this is undone, the tank can be disengaged from the various locating tabs, the main one being by the filler cap, where it slots into a square hole. You then have access to the electrical connector (which alerts you if your coolant level is too low) - it's roughly where the G12 sign is, on the underside of the tank. As with all !Removed! Audi connectors, it probably worked when it was new, but 20 years have taken their toll, and it was a git to remove, but it finally came free. So you now have the tank loose, connected to the vehicle by two hoses, the smaller diameter one on top, and the larger underneath. They were both held in place by Beelzebub's spring clips, which were fun to get off, and which I immediately ditched in favour of new jubilee clamps. Before disconnecting the hoses, I used brake line clamps on both, to save losing any coolant, then angled the tank so that the coolant was clear of the hoses before pulling them free. I managed to place the old tank, still half full of coolant, on the floor, whilst I went about fitting the new replacement. This took about five minutes - piece of old ease. I then used the old tank as a bottle, and - with my finger blocking the smaller spigot - poured the coolant into the new tank, before !Removed! on the replacement cap, and calling the job done. Not a drop spilled 😃 I took the old tank out to the bin... Where it can be recycled into - who knows? The only snag is... ...that washer-bottle is looking a bit crap in comparison... 🤔 Cheers, Mike 😎

No, he only looks in once or twice per year, and I suspect that is just to see if we are still alive.

John. Search other sections of these forums for mild hybrid to see if symptoms described there match yours.

I sent my A4 allroad B9 for an MOT - no lights on pre MOT. Collected it with the Yellow warning triangle and Auto headlight fault. Garage denied they did anything. Also, all the dash board lights went superbright and the dimmer wouldnt work. Local Audi specialist helped out, the told me the MOT guys tripped a fuse but i wouldnt be able to prove it. Took them a while to find the right fuse that was blown as its not numbered ( Thanks Audi). Located in passenger footwell in Fuse Carrier 2 ST2. Just thought i would share.

Hi Steve another good practice is buy a load of cheap plastic food storage containers and some sharpie permanent markers in different colours you can then label the boxes for any small electrical sensors and damp affected bits, for what its worth I would strip the bottom end first to asses the state of the crank before going any further and hopefully it will come to a light regrind and new shells and perhaps new pistons and rings. Steve.

Hi,I'm new to this Audi messaging and i just want to let you know that changing the rear disc and pads on my Audi A3 Quattro was a bit challenging.. I just want to let you all know that taking off the rear caliper you will need a torx T30(made by lazer) and a breaker bar(15") 3/8 drive. I bought it all on ebay. It took me around a 1 hr each side. These torx bolts were very tight but they move with a bit of a perseverance...

Many thanks everyone for your input. i know that Celtic have a very good reputation, but on balance, i think it may be best to leave well alone for now. it may also be that it will be fool’s errand as in all probability the ECU is locked 😢

Max. If you are expecting a solenoid valve on the coolant system you will be disappointed. Cabin temperature adjustment by control of coolant flow was abandoned years ago. Maybe you already know that, but I mention it just in case. Temperature regulation will be by mixing hot and cold air by means of flap valves in the air ducts. I don't know if the flaps on your car are entirely mechanical or electrically powered. Note that electric flaps are known to be prone to failure. There is also the possibility of a partial blockage of the heater matrix which can be caused by scale or by crystals of silica gel that have escaped from a bag in the coolant reservoir. (Bags of silica gel in the reservoir were installed for a few years by Audi.) I am inclined to think the latter because such crystals also prevented the thermostat from closing, which may explain why yours was missing. There are videos on Youtube explaining the silica gel problem and how to change the heater matrix if necessary.

Hi Gareth I managed to get the email address of a man who works with Audi Tradition/Auto Union. He has literally just sent me a letter from Audi Germany confirming date of manufacture 😊😊 Thanks again VIN is stamped into the inner wing area.

Hi absolutely sod all else, for that sort of money at an independent garage you wold get, oil/filter, pollen and air filter, what you are being charged for is some Wassoc to wander around underneath with a torch and a phone camera trying to find the smallest excuse to generate more overpriced work, when you look on this forum there are loads of people who have been told by Audi that this bush is gone that needs changing, the best one ever on another forum was your brake pads need changing because they are 50% worn, when are people going to wake up to the fact that full Audi service history is not worth a cup of cold goats urine, better an honest independent that values your custom. Steve.

To answer that specific question, there is a small possibility that the timing belt has jumped a tooth on its sprocket and the engine has stopped in time to avoid damaging any valves, so the garage is hoping that a new belt plus retiming the engine will solve the problem. In reality there is a much bigger chance that either several teeth have been jumped or the belt has broken causing valves to hit the piston crowns. As for the other comments on belt life, I too believe it was a grave mistake for Audi to change its recommendations. VAG is not alone in making this sort of mistake. Look at the problems caused by Ford and others who have changed from dry belts to wet belts in an effort to eliminate an expensive crankshaft seal.

The remapping problem is why I am tending more and more to ask members if a faulty vehicle has been remapped. Many folk are happy to accept the extra performance while remaining blind to the increased wear, decreased reliability, and decreased durability it also brings.

It's unfortunate that cars with those dreadful engines are still permitted to be sold. Even worse is that the trade knows about the fault and yet conceals it from buyers. Be aware that you might have a problem at the next MOT test. All the oil the car is burning will be measured as emissions in the exhaust.

The rear end of the Q5 will take less paint than the wife 😆

C8 models 2019 onwards. 2.0TDI engine is robust and will be paired with 7-speed S Tronic gearbox. That needs serviced every 38k miles. V6 variant, then 8-speed TipTronic. Diesel 2.0 litre will be timing belt, so renew along with auxilliary belts every 60k miles plus water pump, etc. Personally I’d look for Quattro. That adds a few mpg but it’s surefooted and will help sell thereafter. Like anything, servicing is key. You want paperwork and lots of it. Avoid long service intervals. These are also sensor heavy, so consider purchasing VCDS as checking and clearing codes is £200 from Audi. All diesels, then you’re into AdBlue (Euro6), EGR, DPF, etc. Not sure when mild hybrid system started on petrol and diesel, but it’s complex. Search VAG Technic. It might have been an A8 but it caused them grief to fix. Faults, then rear coil spring seats are known weak point. The alloy corrodes from within the rubber. Rear subframes are just powder coated, so get there with Lanoguard. Front multi link suspension usually good for 100k miles, but will be hydrabushes, etc. On car around 50k miles, then potentially some arms if any knocks. Lemforder or Meyle HD. Another option is A6 Allroad, that’s air suspension. Extras worth getting, matrix headlights, auto towbar if you tow, full panoramic. It’s all money, but something to consider.

Hi I have come across this problem a lot, most garages only check the soot levels, what about the ASH thats the killer as it can't be burnt off as its like carbon bricks which can only come out the way it went in so therefore your OBD reader was bang on with the high sevens, that was the ASH, I had this when I worked on a Q3 recently soot was fine up to a point but the ash was at 55%, had the DPF professionally cleaned [off car] reinstalled it with a new MAF/MAP and DPF Pressure sensor and EGT, now been perfect for the last couple of months, soot calculated never more than 20g, soot measured after a regen -4g and ash at 1.8g. All good for another 140k. Steve.

Broken wires in the rubber bellows between door and frame are a common cause of this problem.

Sorry to read your issues. I have had a Q6 Launch Edition since day one and have had no end of faults, faults that Audi to this day still have not resolved, some minor some dangerous, slamming on the brakes doing an emergency stop for no reason, called a ghosting effort on the sensors or headlights that do not turn on to traffic speed signs not being recognised so you can not use ACC, the dealer has been great but close to one year of ownership not a single fault raised has been resolved and there is a lot more then I have mentioned. We have had the same issue as you but got around this by locking the car, walking away for 15 minutes, going back and trying again and all worked like nothing had happened, fault has not happened again, dealer looked and no faults show on the car. My advise to anyone looking at a Q6 or the new A4 is don't, they car has issues and until Audi resolve them look else where. If you do own one, take video footage of the issues as the car will report no faults to prove the fault, Audi claim if the car says no fault then the fault did not happen. Will not be an Audi owner once this car goes, they charge more then any of the others in the group but the cars are the most unreliable. Family member has the 2025 Skoda Enyaq VRS and has not had a single issue. Keep us updated with what your dealer claims.

I do hope so.

Under the circumstances, £180 is okay. To be honest, the oil service should have been done prior to road trip racking up miles.

Can’t see 2017 model, so have chosen 2018. You can double check yourself on LLL Parts. Wing without ancillaries to fit, primed £1,481. Bumper cover, primed £1,676, however there are multiple components that attach, parking sensors, front grill, spoiler, headlight washers, fitting kit, then you have bumper carrier behind it, etc. If the bumper had carbon sections, then you’re into a grand for each section. Some of it may be transferable from the old bumper if intact. Headlight, LED Matrix, £2,183 as an example. Paint, labour and VAT. You can see how it adds up.

All went well thanks to your sound advice. Some. Pics. Of the job in case anyone else ever attempts. Many thanks!

Similar issues regarding rear windscreen wiper and washer turning on intermittently, and drips of rusty water running out. I removed the tailgate trim, which is held on by two screws with star shaped heads underneath the emergency triangle storage box, and also by press in clips, which pull out fairly easily. The electrical connector and the hose clip are easily removed. I removed the base plate for the wiper motor assembly and washer spigot (very small star bits). It was full of rusty sludge. I cleaned it up and also cleaned the washer nozzles, using fine brushes. I reassembled it. On test, it leaked. I dismantled and re-evaluated.The washer fluid hose connects to a plastic spigot attached to the base plate, which in turn connects to the metal spigot that feeds the washer jets at the base of the wiper arm. When pressure builds up behind the nozzles, due to fouling, the plastic rather than the metal gives way and stretches slightly. Then the pressure of normal operation squeezes some washer fluid between the central spigot and its connector. I wrapped the metal spigot with a turn and a half of self amalgamating rubber tape and reassembled. The leak has stopped. The washer operates normally. The wiper operates normally, switches on and off when operated and stops at the correct point. Note that I would have preferred to work on the unit at the bench but the spline connector for the wiper base has rusted in. In my view it is a bad design to run water through the middle of an electromechanical device using press on fittings rather than securing the fluid tubing with pressure resistant connectors. The design is worse because it mates plastic and metal.

Totally agree Kevin, it's my biggest gripe on this and other sites where people go out of their way to help others only to be met with silence, and it's becoming increasingly common unfortunately. Maybe it's just me getting old but I find myself having to bite my lip more and more often rather than having a rant online. I brought my kids up to say please and thank you as an absolute minimum when dealing with people but it seems that we and others here who give up their time and knowledge in hope of a simple "thank you" are a dying breed. I remember when I first left school an old guy I worked with telling a rude customer who wanted a favour that you catch more bees with honey than you do with vinegar, and another that said if someone thinks they're helping you out and offers you a bucket of s*** to smile and say thank you, you can always put it on your roses or give it to someone else who needs it. That said, I'll keep giving advice where I can as I appreciate the thanks when I get it and it's nice knowing you've helped someone out.

@Magnet No Gareth. £695.00 for the two years cover - paid upfront OR a 24 monthly payments. No interest. You've added the upfront payment to the 24x monthly ones and so paying twice for everything! 🙂 Give me credit Gareth! My fairly 'local' garage that i know, deal mainly with 4x4s. They'd be wanting in excess of £695 to match the equivalent of what the Audi garage will do and give. The £695 also includes 2 MOTs I’m happy to put my trust in a garage with qualified Audi engineers.

So i have done the Heater core matrix change and it was not difficult without any mechanical knowledge, however would recommend to have someone to help you as at some stages it looks like you need another pair of hands just for holding a pipe in position or a torch. Started by removing the glove box and some covers on the passenger side: Then you will be able to see the heater core and pipes. After this, remove the media unit and disconnect all cables, all colour coded and different types of connectors, so it will be easy to connect back, but just in case, take a picture for reference. Remove the foam cover And remove the fan, few screws holding it. Remove the sensor in front of the heater matrix, which is blocking the bottom part of it. Place a tub under and start loosening the pipes. After that, push the pipe out of the way and slide the heater core out. Change the core and do everything back in reverse. I have bought new seals and clamps as well for the pipe, don`t need to, but it was just in case. Would at least recommend changing the seals. Was very difficult to alight the pipe and at the same time tighten the screws when putting back together as there was not a lot of room and make sure you put clamps facing the same way as they were due to not blocking the plastic going back in at the bottom of the heater core. Prior to the task, I completely flushed the coolant and changed the coolant tank, which I bought for 30£ as there was a lot of residue sitting at the bottom of it. Job done in April. Any questions I will try to answer when I can. Thanks and good luck,

It appears you can, you are 100% right. Matrix LED headlights Upgrade your headlights with Audi Matrix LED technology. Individual diodes automatically switch between dipped and main beam and provide maximum illumination of the road, without dazzling other road users. Light function package Unlock an extra lighting function that adapts to surroundings to enhance visibility when on motorways, cornering and at junctions. The Light function package also includes lighting ‘animations’ that play when locking and unlocking your car. High beam assist Upgrade to High beam assist to enable the headlights to automatically detect oncoming traffic, the rear lights of other road users and light sources in built-up areas. The High beam is switched on or off automatically, depending on the traffic situation.