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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

Does anybody else get frustrated when people post a question, get suggestions and then never come back with a follow up to say how or if the problem was solved? Surely it's only good manners and it helps people with similar problems.

I don't presume to know what you're looking for Alex, but buying an S5 will likely have a decent specification on even a base model, minus things such as sound package or panoramic sunroof. Incidentally, LED matrix isn't gimmicky lighting. Far from it, this will have been a very expensive extra from new, over and above standard LED lights with features such as full beam assist, cornering lighting, etc. This type of specification helps sell it down the line unless you're planning for this car to be a long term keeper. You asked if S5s are typical for lack of servicing. No, not necessarily, but its a 2017 plate, so a 9 year old performance car, so it pays to do your research. The original owner may have sold it, and it could have traded hands a few times or been run ragged on a track or indeed modified. Without some sort of service log, then you've absolutely no idea what the history is. In terms of history, especially on an older vehicle such as this, then if its been maintained meticulously, even by the main dealer on a database, they can give you a print out. If the previous owner(s) were old school, then a physical service record is better. Doesn't need to be garage stamps, but receipts in a folder from a VAT registered garage, or simply parts purchased, and service mileage, in some sort of chronological order. That speaks volumes. I've had quattros for years, so I understand tyre wear. Normally you replace tyres in pairs on the same axle. There's no dark science to it. A car failing on tyres tells you the owner isn't aware of condition, wear pattern or tread depth.

Thanks again Sid I also found similar but steered away from it as camera dint appear to be the same. I've sorted it now with the switch off eBay. Which can also be purchased from RS. It's an omron switch part no D2HW A201D Photos attached show the tabs soldered on to allow the original wiring harness plug to connect. Bit fiddly but it works. Link to switch on RS https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=Omron+D2HW+A201D

You may remember I sold my Audi E Tron GT at the end of August due to insurance cost (£3K) and also the RFT (£450). Incidentally it hasn't sold yet. I thought I would bid you all farewell and thank you for the info, and tips over the years I had Audis. I have just purchased a new Jeacoo J7 SHS Hybrid. It's not bad. Loads of goodies, 56 miles on electric, 700 miles total tank range, albeit I have only done 125 miles so far. It's good value, pretty good finish, but it is definitely not an Audi. Thanks for every thing. Tony

Magnet thanks for the suggestions. my sensible car has always been a Toyota RAV4 and the Audi my “Fun” car. The Toyota garage is a small independent and as I’ve been going there for 30 years and bought new from them they have agreed to look at my car to see if they can identify where the water is coming from. I will update this thread with any solution I find in case it is of use to anybody.

Had my 21 plate Q7 down tools with the same error as many of you have experienced. Dealing with the garage was as a bit of a pain, nothing was written down and no one wanted to place any blame on the part. However, I picked the car back up today with a new alternator and battery at zero cost to me from Stratford Audi. Now to follow up with Audi UK for recovery costs. Thanks for all the advice on this thread, helped a lot in saving me a significant bill.

Just a quick update on my case — I picked up the car on Tuesday. All the repairs, including diagnostics, were fully covered under the 7-year extended warranty. The newly installed BSG also comes with an additional 3-year warranty. To my surprise, when I collected the car, I found a generous gift box from Audi in the boot. It included jackets, a hat, a bottle of Moët champagne, air fresheners, a backpack, a cup, a key ring, a cleaning kit, and a few other thoughtful extras. Overall, Audi really stepped up and handled the issue to the standard I expected. I've learned my lesson and decided to take out the extended warranty plan with Audi — better safe than sorry! All in all, I’m pleased with how everything was resolved and back on the road with renewed confidence.

Issue resolved. User error. Happy to embarrass myself if it helps others....this safety label was still attached to the new battery and wouldn't complete the circuit. Thanks everyone. 🫣

Had the same issue. Just give the polystyrene holder a firm pull and it will come out.

Hi might well be with doing if the pressure slows down it may well be the valve, how many miles has the car done as around that year they are famous for burning oil where they used skinny oil control rings, problem is they let oil up but also down which pressurises the sump, fingers crossed its the aftermarket valve. Steve.

You’re running a 3.0TDI V6 up front, so you’re dealing with a heavy engine. It’s not just age, it’s how the car is driven and the reality of British roads. We’re not suggesting to completely refresh the suspension, but unfortunately this is the reality with multi link suspension. If you were renewing lower front arms, do both, front and rear arms. As suggested, these are usually hydrabushes, difficult to tell if they’ve failed unless you see a leak, or get in with a pry bar. I’ve read snake oil remedies about silicone sprays on bushes to remove squeaks. That will be short lived and probably age the bush given it’s petroleum based. The only grease you can use with rubber is red grease. Similar to brake rebuilds. You could try on some of the ARB bushes as it’s a relatively cheap fix, but does mean a little bit of work if your spanner handy.

I had an Island Green 1.4tdi, barely run in at 210,000 miles, 60mpg, sailed through MoT! All standard so don't fix which isn't broken. A fuel pump leak & lack of spares meant it had to go to WOMAUTOMOTIVE in Stoke-on-Trent who had a selection of donor cars. Our "Dinky Toy" is now back on the road with a new owner. My good lady wishes we still had the A2.

Hello Chris, It’s mint and covered 76k so, no, just don’t mess around with it. Regards, Gareth.

We don’t know your driving history to date, but £400 a month on insurance is insane, considering cost of fuel and running costs as it is. Unfortunately males under 25 are deemed high risk, and of course the area where car is left overnight and your job will also have impact. Use some of the insurance comparison sites, on a standard 1 litre car for example and see what comes back price wise. You can also add telemetric box, which means you need to drive within speed limit at all times and even when you drive. Additional advanced driving qualification may help, but ultimately you need to be over 25 with no claims to start bringing it down.

The ability of a battery to crank and fire the engine is not evidence that it is in good shape. That was true years ago in the days of points in distributors, but not since the advent of sensitive electronics. I suggest you get the battery properly tested (not by a multimeter). I'd go further and say that if it is more than five years old you should renew it irrespective of the test results. Don't forget to get the new battery coded to the car.

hi lads,yes it was me who bought the car and its now here in ireland,its an interesting car and i hope to have her up and running soon,ill keep the forum posted on the progress,Greg

I hope someone finds this of interest. If boring, please ignore. So, after precisely 2 weeks of ownership from new and 500 miles, the following are my thoughts about my S5 Avant and in particular to how it compares to my previous car , a Q8. Firstly and most obviously is the tech in this car compared to the Q8 which was 7 years into it's development and used a vastly inferior architecture to the latest Audi MMI. I am 78 years of age and to say I am astounded about how good this is and what it can do, is an understatement. Particuarly the " Hey Audi " feature which is outstanding. I never used the voice recognition in the Q8 as it was so poor but with this, it understands everything you say and you can control almost everything with it. I am smitten !!! Even though I havent had a blast yet, the S5 is clearly a much more powerful and faster car. The Q8 was not a slow car with 335 bhp and a 0 to 60 time of about 6 seconds but it had alot of weight to haul around. Nect build quality ? I detest creaks and rattles in cars. One of the reasons I was a proud owner of 2 VW Phaetons as the build quality on those cars was unsurpassed in my opinion . I was a little concerned reading some reviews that seem to say that the build quality on newer model Audis had taken a dive. At the moment, thats not true and the car seems solid and well screwed together Next, how comfortable would the S5 be compared to the Q8. This was my worse fear realising I was coming out of a car with air suspension and designed and built with comfort in mind and into one where handling and road holding was paramount. On that, the jury is still out and I know I was taking a bit of a punt on this. On roads I know and in comfort mode the suspension on the S5 certainly crashes and bangs a bit more. But nothing that really bothers me and I get the feeling that it is more to do with the 35 section tyres compared to the 40's on the Q8 rather than the adaptive dampers versus the air suspension. And finally....perception ? Isnt it strange that the Q8 is still considerd the flagship model of the Audi SUV range but in 6 years of owning two they rarely received a glance or a comment although to my mind, they were pretty handsome cars. Whereas in 14 days of ownership I have had numerous people come up when I have parked up, to ask and admire the car. I think the age range of the admirers is substantially lower that anyone who came up to look at the Q8 which tells you something maybe. I hope this is of interest. If not just delete. Frank

Car purchased May 2025, numerous faults illuminated on dash Engine management ligh, hill hold assist. Car would only run on battery the other day until it cut out. 10 minutes standing turning off - on engine fired. Alarm goes off at random. Vehicle speeds up when in adaptive cruise when traffic is slowing. Burns excessive oil. Asked uk Audi to respond to Engine management light but they refused. Many owners with similar problems are using consumer act 2015 to return vehicles. I’ve given my formal rejection notice to reject the car.

Afternoon all, I took the convertible off the battery tender last week and gave it an Italian tune-up along the A47 before delivering it for its MoT. I'm happy to say it passed with no advisories (as it !Removed! should, with the amount I've spent on it 😆). As I was hooking it back up to the battery tender, I was struck by the coolant expansion tank looking discoloured, so went on Amazon and, the next day, had a new one (by Febi Bilstein), along with a new cap, delivered, for a total of £26.93. The switch took half an hour or so - mostly because I was determined to do the job without losing any coolant (I don't have any spare). It's pretty simple... There is a single T20 self-tapper (ringed) holding it in place, once this is undone, the tank can be disengaged from the various locating tabs, the main one being by the filler cap, where it slots into a square hole. You then have access to the electrical connector (which alerts you if your coolant level is too low) - it's roughly where the G12 sign is, on the underside of the tank. As with all !Removed! Audi connectors, it probably worked when it was new, but 20 years have taken their toll, and it was a git to remove, but it finally came free. So you now have the tank loose, connected to the vehicle by two hoses, the smaller diameter one on top, and the larger underneath. They were both held in place by Beelzebub's spring clips, which were fun to get off, and which I immediately ditched in favour of new jubilee clamps. Before disconnecting the hoses, I used brake line clamps on both, to save losing any coolant, then angled the tank so that the coolant was clear of the hoses before pulling them free. I managed to place the old tank, still half full of coolant, on the floor, whilst I went about fitting the new replacement. This took about five minutes - piece of old ease. I then used the old tank as a bottle, and - with my finger blocking the smaller spigot - poured the coolant into the new tank, before !Removed! on the replacement cap, and calling the job done. Not a drop spilled 😃 I took the old tank out to the bin... Where it can be recycled into - who knows? The only snag is... ...that washer-bottle is looking a bit crap in comparison... 🤔 Cheers, Mike 😎

There are plenty of automotive locksmiths around if you don't fancy Audi prices.

Hi Cal, Thanks for getting in touch, sorry to hear of your loss, however you don't have the Audi paddling pool to deal with now. I'm just seeking as much information as I can to try and find out the cause and make it as easy as I can for the garage to resolve. Cheers M

You may be better off having the existing rack overhauled to avoid any mismatch from secondhand units. There are many companies specialising in this work to be found by an internet search.

Ok, I'm on the final stretch, I can see the finish line ahead. Hopefully next Friday it can get an MOT. The final parts to complete are, Plug the seats in and clear the Airbag light, Plug the rear Abs sensors in and clear the Abs light, Bolt the front bumper on, Space the rear exhaust down a bit as the tailpipe trims are touching the bumper, Re adjust the rear parking sensor wires as I cut through them when trimming the bumper, Bolt the clutch reservoir to the bulkhead. I will leave the audi r8 rear wheels as they are for now, I can get the new rears to match the fronts in the r8 fitment, it's just not needed for now. The exhaust seems to fit fine, it does sound nice too which was a bonus.

They will quote chapter and verse and you’ll be even more confused. It’s not just the belt, it’s the bearings on the pulleys. New kit comes with tensioner pulley, etc. normal course is to replace water-pump and auxilliary belt too.

Long time since I started this thread. Thought I would provide an update with coding for anyone searching this thread. I used genuine audi parts for an A3 8y - package number 8Y0.054.634A with wiring harness 8Y0.054.733 which cost £232. It came with instructions for fitting but not coding. I put the wiring through the car following the recommended route although short cut down the boot side trim rather than take the whole side trim out but the rest was along the floor clipped to the existing wiring. No trim broken or clips. One change I made was to use the earth inside the boot lid rather than inside the car body as this also saved removing some of the trim. Gaining access to the J533 module for connections was difficult and took some time to release and wriggle out from behind the steering column. Coding using OBD11 professional Gateway 19 long coding Sdf unlock PaCo_video_parksystem change to RVC_compact_smart Multimedia Adaption: Search bap: VPS_0X0B = activate VPS_OXB_msg_bus = terminal15 Search function_configuration_unit RCV_ video_input = Ethernet Note: If purchasing a new camera as I did from audi you will need to load parameters via e-odis. Any garage with e-odis should be able to do this if you have the audi part numbers. My local independent vag garage charged £50.

I sent my A4 allroad B9 for an MOT - no lights on pre MOT. Collected it with the Yellow warning triangle and Auto headlight fault. Garage denied they did anything. Also, all the dash board lights went superbright and the dimmer wouldnt work. Local Audi specialist helped out, the told me the MOT guys tripped a fuse but i wouldnt be able to prove it. Took them a while to find the right fuse that was blown as its not numbered ( Thanks Audi). Located in passenger footwell in Fuse Carrier 2 ST2. Just thought i would share.

Hi Steve another good practice is buy a load of cheap plastic food storage containers and some sharpie permanent markers in different colours you can then label the boxes for any small electrical sensors and damp affected bits, for what its worth I would strip the bottom end first to asses the state of the crank before going any further and hopefully it will come to a light regrind and new shells and perhaps new pistons and rings. Steve.

Andy. It's unrealistic to expect a valuation without an opportunity to inspect it, to listen to it, to test drive it, or to examine the service history. Look at Autotrader and the like, or go to a dealer.

Thank you chaps, and the same to you all. After watching the concert from the Musikverein Vienna, I'll take advantage of the sunshine and walk the lanes nearby. Cliff.

A little bit late - still running on choke after the Rioja - but we too wish everyone on here as trouble free a 2026 as possible, and a special thanks to all those who spend their time and expertise in helping others when they are in difficulties. Spread kindness where it’s deserved, and it will be returned three fold. Take care all. Kind regards, Gareth & family.

You'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Or get an auto electrician to take a look. It could be a wiring issue from where the loom clips into the seat but my bet would be on a knackered seat heating element.

Hi Gareth I managed to get the email address of a man who works with Audi Tradition/Auto Union. He has literally just sent me a letter from Audi Germany confirming date of manufacture 😊😊 Thanks again VIN is stamped into the inner wing area.

It has nothing to with theft prevention, and everything to do with ensuring the battery is charged correctly to avoid damage.

Thanks Magnet . More info as you suggested. Have owned car since 2017. It's in reasonable condition bodywise , has full leather seats and factory sunroof. Head lining needs replacing but otherwise interior good .Front end accident damage in 2021 - bonnet radiator and headlights replaced .Good deal of work done on engine in 2022 with rocker gaskets and oil seals replaced , new timing belt ,water pump and coolant hoses . Has now got fresh oil leak and plastic heater core tail has broken up. Needs someone with a workshop and the necessary skills to fix it. Believe not many examples left , so hoping someone is interested in preserving it rather than it being broken and / or scrapped. Love this car ,so it's not about money , it's about finding the old girl a new home .

took it out, opened it up to see if any obvious issues, split the front and back pcbs and reseated, issue is now resolved, hopefully just a poor connection, fingers crossed.

Does the car have door open warning lights? Audi got tight with what they added and what should have been standard after 2012 or so. Front headlight washers and rear door open and puddle lights just being some of the kit they quietly dropped or if you wanted them you needed to buy a bundled package. Try https://rocketwires.co.uk/online-shop/ols/products/door-lighting for looms. I've used them and it's straight forward. That allows you to piggy-back into existing wiring. You'll need Torx screwdriver, anti-marr trim tools.

In a word: no. They are all worthless. As you have read for yourself, the exclusions mean the policies will not pay for any of the things the average motorist wants covered.

I have an 18 plate, stolen recovered, S3 and it’s brilliant. It did have full audi S/H and I did all the checks mentioned in posts above before I got it. I get 40-42mpg, 45 a few times on a good warm day, cruising on the motorway at 70 in economy mode (dull but economical). If I cruise at 80, it drops to 35-38. Winter it’s around 4mpg less. Round town I use auto mode and it’s low 30’s. I use cruise a lot, even round town as I find the gearbox keeps the low gear. I’ve done 20k and it it’s not missed a beat. Gearbox, haldex are important to get done on time and oil I change at 8k. I am surprised at how much I enjoy it, on the open road in the country it’s great fun and unbelievably quick. Not sure on the engine differences with the facelift between the 15 and 18 plates, but that’s what get on mine.

I think that'd be your best bet. Putting a cambelt on it won't help in my opinion and could do further damage. They removed the 5 year rule a few years ago which I think is ridiculous. Also £1k for a cambelt is very expensive too.

Hi Steve,sorry for the late reply. Yesterday was crazy busy trying to sort car out but the good news is it's fixed!! I think i saw here in this topic someone saying there's only 3 sensors but in fact it's 4. The 2 on the top close to the lambda sensor and nox,one that comes straight up at the bottom(orange plug) and yesterday saw another one underneath the turbo if I'm not mistaken( black plug). Bought a new sensor(black plug) and tried it on that plug and no error whatsoever and since I had bought one a few months ago and the shape and plug being exactly the same I just used it and no errors,no lights,nothing all day!! Returned the sensor and saved £57!! Thanks for your support and replies,very much appreciated. Raul

C8 models 2019 onwards. 2.0TDI engine is robust and will be paired with 7-speed S Tronic gearbox. That needs serviced every 38k miles. V6 variant, then 8-speed TipTronic. Diesel 2.0 litre will be timing belt, so renew along with auxilliary belts every 60k miles plus water pump, etc. Personally I’d look for Quattro. That adds a few mpg but it’s surefooted and will help sell thereafter. Like anything, servicing is key. You want paperwork and lots of it. Avoid long service intervals. These are also sensor heavy, so consider purchasing VCDS as checking and clearing codes is £200 from Audi. All diesels, then you’re into AdBlue (Euro6), EGR, DPF, etc. Not sure when mild hybrid system started on petrol and diesel, but it’s complex. Search VAG Technic. It might have been an A8 but it caused them grief to fix. Faults, then rear coil spring seats are known weak point. The alloy corrodes from within the rubber. Rear subframes are just powder coated, so get there with Lanoguard. Front multi link suspension usually good for 100k miles, but will be hydrabushes, etc. On car around 50k miles, then potentially some arms if any knocks. Lemforder or Meyle HD. Another option is A6 Allroad, that’s air suspension. Extras worth getting, matrix headlights, auto towbar if you tow, full panoramic. It’s all money, but something to consider.

Broken wires in the rubber bellows between door and frame are a common cause of this problem.

99% certain you have the 7-speed s-tronic gearbox, the 8-speed tiptronic was used in the SQ5 QUR is your gearbox code CTBA is your engine code LZ7G is your paint code N5W FZ is your interior type and colour codes All the other codes relate to your factory build spec and can be decoded at sites like - https://www.oemvwshop.com/pr-code-decoder/

Similar issues regarding rear windscreen wiper and washer turning on intermittently, and drips of rusty water running out. I removed the tailgate trim, which is held on by two screws with star shaped heads underneath the emergency triangle storage box, and also by press in clips, which pull out fairly easily. The electrical connector and the hose clip are easily removed. I removed the base plate for the wiper motor assembly and washer spigot (very small star bits). It was full of rusty sludge. I cleaned it up and also cleaned the washer nozzles, using fine brushes. I reassembled it. On test, it leaked. I dismantled and re-evaluated.The washer fluid hose connects to a plastic spigot attached to the base plate, which in turn connects to the metal spigot that feeds the washer jets at the base of the wiper arm. When pressure builds up behind the nozzles, due to fouling, the plastic rather than the metal gives way and stretches slightly. Then the pressure of normal operation squeezes some washer fluid between the central spigot and its connector. I wrapped the metal spigot with a turn and a half of self amalgamating rubber tape and reassembled. The leak has stopped. The washer operates normally. The wiper operates normally, switches on and off when operated and stops at the correct point. Note that I would have preferred to work on the unit at the bench but the spline connector for the wiper base has rusted in. In my view it is a bad design to run water through the middle of an electromechanical device using press on fittings rather than securing the fluid tubing with pressure resistant connectors. The design is worse because it mates plastic and metal.

@Magnet No Gareth. £695.00 for the two years cover - paid upfront OR a 24 monthly payments. No interest. You've added the upfront payment to the 24x monthly ones and so paying twice for everything! 🙂 Give me credit Gareth! My fairly 'local' garage that i know, deal mainly with 4x4s. They'd be wanting in excess of £695 to match the equivalent of what the Audi garage will do and give. The £695 also includes 2 MOTs I’m happy to put my trust in a garage with qualified Audi engineers.

I had a loose wheel speed sensor that was throwing up similar problems with warning lights, might be worth checking mate.

Right guys, I sent all 6 injectors off to be tested, low and behold, injector 3 has zero flow on idle. Got it rebuild, fitted it this evening, and I've got a smooth idle! Took it for a drive, no fault codes and no lights. Low rail pressure seems to have disappeared now too. Just want to say a massive thank you to everyone that gave advise. I can finally get back to work now 😂! Cheers once again!

I replaced the CCM in my '03 A6 C5 1.9TDI with one that had the identical part number a couple of months ago and it was completely plug and play. Your key fobs will need to be reprogrammed however, but it's a really quick and straightforward job if you have two. I posted a guide in the C5 forum that explains it step by step. Hope that helps you mate. Edit I've just noticed the CCM in your avant ends in an N and the saloon in a K, weirdly the one in my saloon is an N, go figure.