Entwood

Thank you for your efforts, but mine doesn't look quite like that, and certainly does NOT have those two little cutouts. Hopefully someone can offer other ideas!!

2014 A6 allroad and the satnav has just started misbehaving. Internet search has enabled me to find a way of knowing that 0 satellites are being received, so I suspect the sharks fin aerial has failed. I don't think its simply moisture as its been bone dry for 10 days and the car is black and has been stood in the sun, so the roof has got pretty hot!! Seems that is a real PIA to replace as the whole headlining has to be removed. Several sources state that unplugging the existing GPS aerial and replacing with a generic GPS aerial from fleabay is a simple and effective solution .... only problem is I can find no detailed instructions on how to remove the MMI to do such a thing !! There are various mentions of special tools and/or dismantling centre consol and others say its simple just one bolt !! So what is the truth please !! Could someone who "knows" give me a detailed guide to the easiest way of accessing the GPS plug on the MMI so I can then fit a replacement GPS aerial. Any ideas greatly appreciated.

I presently run 255/40 R20 at 37psi all round as the car is mainly used to tow the tin-tent, so has a fair bit of tail weight as well as a load of kit in the back, its very stable. The previous owner, who purchased the car new, paid an absolute fortune for the 20" wheels - OK they look good, no dispute there - and I put new tyres on when I bought the car. Those tyres are now reaching time to be replaced, and I'm very seriously considering buying some 18" wheels and running on 235/55 R18 tyres, as I think the ride on 20" wheels on the abysmal roads round here is back breaking - literally!!! The car is a dream to ride in cruising the motorways, but a country road with deep potholes...... not good at all 😞 Trying to work out the relative costs of buying a set of Audi 18" wheels off the Bay, and how much I might get for my 20" ones. There appears to be no to little difference in the actual price of the tyres (Continental SC5).

Knowing that I know nowt about audi setups in particular - I bought this car so I no longer have to work on fixing cars ! - feel free to ignore this.... but your statement is incorrect on a large number of cars/applications. The common view that if its in the off position its isolated is often wrong, as many times the switch provides the "earth" (more correctly the 0 volt connection) to enable a circuit to be completed, thus at any point in the wiring before the switch a "short" to "earth" will provide the 0 volt connection and the item will burst into life !! Without knowing the circuits, your description of the fault fits this scenario perfectly ... a break in a wire somewhere between the motor and the switch is "earthing" and completing the circuit so the wipers do their own thing regardless of switch position. I wish you luck in finding the offending bit of wire... I'd be looking around the tailgate hinge area myself .....

Mine has done the same occasionaly .. but I think it might be operator error....... not certain but I "think" its linked to the auto-close window system .. so if I hold the "lock" button too long it auto-closes even though the windows are all shut! Probably wrong but that's what it seems like to me !!

Have the handbook now, and the info is on page 128, and quite long so I won't type all of it ... relevant bit as far as I can see is : "The adaptive air suspension is an electronically controlled pneumatic spring/shock absorber system. The set-up is adjusted according to the selected mode, steering movements,braking and acceleration input by the driver, road surface quality, road speed and vehicle loading. The vehicles ground clearance depends on which mode is selected and how fast you are travelling. If you drive in auto or efficiency for longer than 30 secons at over 120km/h the motorway ride height is selected. If the speed dropsbelow 70 km/h for over 120 seconds the ground clearance is automatically raised " Mine is a 2014 Allroad and presently is set to "efficiency" mode and shows 2 bars ..... Hope that helps .....

If memory serves me right, can't get to the handbook right now to check however ...... in "dynamic" mode the ride height self-adjusts with speed, so starts off at 2 bars then as speed increases it "lowers" to 1 bar to improve handling at higher speeds .... I'll be able to get to the handbook tonight to check my, probably failing, memory !!

Sounds really like a battery problem .. these cars are VERY easily upset if the battery is not in really good condition... and a simple voltage check with a meter is no where near a good enough check,, the battery needs to be checked with a PROPER PROFFESIONAL battery checking device... there might well be enough "oomph" in the battery to start the engine .. but the voltage drops as the battery recharges and numerous other circuits kick in is often enough to cause many problems of the type you describe..... this of course assumes the alternator is also in good condition ... as that is what actually provides all the electrics the car needs !!

Brilliant, many thanks ... will attack it tomorrow !! I might take meter readings anyhow and publish them just to see what the "hive mind" thinks ! I'm starting to think that - as the frequency of the warnings changes with the bending of those two wires - that the problem is probably in that plug somewhere... be it corrosion, a bad connection or a nearly broken wire ... be interesting to see whats inside it !

Hi, many thanks for the prompt reply, appreciate it. Attached a photo of the connector, wth the wires "bent" to the position that appears to give the least number of warnings !! Still happen , but just not as often ! Your idea if cleaning up the pins was in my mind, but I'd also like to check the readings via a meter if possible. Thanks again E

Hi all, posted about this on another forum and getting no help, so asking here as I'm out of ideas..... throughout this problem the actual coolant level is "max" when cold and has not changed..... A couple of months back I started to get intermittent "low coolant level" warnings ... would last between 5 seconds and several minutes before going out, I tried to narrow it down to uphill/downhill; braking/acceleration, left turns/right turns; and even temperature variations .. all of which failed. I was then informed that the "tank/sender" had been modified due to inaccurate warnings so I got a local independent to fit a new tank ..... All was fine for a while but then returned and has slowly got worse... until recently being "on" more then "off". The garage that did the work refuse to countenance a "faulty on fit" tank and say they need the car in to investigate "the wiring fault"... but won't give a price as "wiring faults take an unknown time to find, might be minutes might be hours" ... appears they want an open cheque from me.... not good... 😞 It might be my imagination, but it appears to me that "fiddling" with the wires at the plug appears to make a small difference, so "might" be a fault at that point. To check this out I'd like to do some measurements, but have a small problem ..... so can anyone answer the following questions please ... 1. How does the plug disconnect from the tank ?? I've tried a straight pull but it doesn't move 2. What is the voltage across the 2 wires at the plug with the plug disconnected and the engine running ? 3. What is the resistance across the sensor pins a) tank full (light should be "off" and b) tank empty (light should be "on" 4. Is there anywhere I can get a wiring diagram for the coolant tank sensor or would I have to purchase through ErWin ? Any help/advice/thoughts gratefully accepted Regards E

Although I agree the battery might be on its last legs .. given the recent cold weather, and the fact folks are not using cars as much, it "might" be worth giving the battery a proper 24 hour charge with a decent "smart charger" that does recovery mode and AGM battereis .. I use a Ctek MXS 5 and do a "top up" charge if the car is not used for 14 days ....seems to stop most problems. Worth a try before shelling out on a new battery ?? https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/mxs-5-0-uk

I had mine wired in by a local autoelectrician .. he's used the passenger side fuse box, no idea which actual fuse though

Always worth a phone call/email .....

Just had a reverse camera retro fitted to the 2014 A6 Allroad by these guys - Audi Retrofit Specialist | Autologics - and I can't praise them high enough.... really, really pleased from the initial contact query to payment after the job was completed, highly professional in all respects, and you wouldn't know they had done anything it is that neat, unless you know exactly what to look for. Huge "thank you" from me and they deserve the publicity as well, highly recommended if anyone is considering any retro fit options

Gone before I could purchase ... 😞

This seems exceedingly cheap .... am I right to be highly suspicious ?? VCDS Diagnostic interface for VW AUDI SKODA SEAT FULL VERSION | eBay My allroad is 2014 version so this "should" work ... but .........

15 miles is nothing .. put it on charge overnight with a "proper" agm charger .. it "might" recover... but it might not ... always worth a try IMHO To put in context ... a 95AH battery is "flat" at about 50% charge ... so call it 40 AH.. therefore it "needs" 45 AH of charge to be recharged to full. An alternator will shove out a max of about 20 amps into the battery .. so in 15 mins you have put back 5AH !! well short of acheiving anything !

Might be worth dropping these guys an e-mail .. they have a very good reputation and if they don't do it probably know if it can be done and by whom .. https://www.autologics.co.uk/genuine-audi-retrofit-specialist

Worth a "proper" read IMHO .. a load of important information for ALL drivers . as well as descriptions of all the proposed Emission Zones https://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/cars/article-10317955/Nine-big-changes-driving-laws-road-rules-car-tech-coming-2022.html :)

Thinking about buying one of these... but a tad confused by their website .... it appears I have to buy a device and then "credits" .. in order for it to work, but nowhere does it tell me a what I get for my "credits", how long they last, or when I can use them.. just a link to buy more.. 😞 and not a lot of detail in what it can diagnose ... eg ,, can it report on DPF state ie soot/ash levels ?? who knows as I can't find anything about it anywhere .... 😞

Further thoughts .... are the trailer tyres a) correctly inflated, b) correct size ?? either/both could be causing the trailer to "sit" high ?? Are you measuring the trailer ball height empty or loaded ?? I know you have to tow both but the specs state loaded and a horse wheighs a fair bit from the memory of being stood on !! Lastly, is it possible to drop the height of the trailer by changing dampers/springs ??...bit like lowering a car ?? Might be a cheaper option than trying to change the car settings ??

Your towball is absolutely "bang on" as they say ... between 350mm and 420mm from the ground, which suggests that it is the trailer that is at fault .... Towbar Towball Heights, mobile towbar fitting, towbar fitting Midlands (trailertrek.co.uk)

Not just postage rates... import duties/VAT and other things now payable on stuff from the EU as we are now a seperate country.

Yeah .. speed limits !! I got done twice in france whilst towing !!! far too easy to go a bit quick as it is so stable, simple, and eager !! Easiy the best towcar I've owned .... only downside is it's done very little for the past year due to covid ... less than 3000 miles in 14 months .. and only 3 trips with the tin tent on the back.