spartacus 68

To be honest if the left has gone, then the right hand side may not be that far behind. For suspension, rule of thumb is to replace in pairs, given you're going to have to do a tracking alignment check anyway. Watch if you buy from US - as you're going to have import tax on top. Left 4B3413031R: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/front-shock-absorber-left/4b3413031r/ Right 4B3413032B (bargain): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402652927146?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338722076&customid=&toolid=10050&amdata=enc%3AAQAKAAAAoFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fckI9Dtw3QsTjeZIIgTJs%2BDxPSPkbnPhtAjAd5OllIgTQeaTsPa0C1U1HRO8PrQ4oko9JP4iErWinRIT1Qkah0tMkdbENAv2doVf2FB4s2CAjCvBN3bNqlSWg8wzgh9%2BCdiW%2F8i46Io1WThLNCKW6hsiig9MzMfObHMaHbXLBc3EXgH%2BWpzM0ewsdUq79BpMw%3D Double check part numbers here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/RS6/290/4/411/4110003413032B 4B3413032B

With your multimeter, check the voltage on the battery if it fails to start. Should be 12.4-12.7v. A new 12v battery should be trickle charged before installation. It’s advisable to code it to the vehicle with VCDS for battery management reasons, but that won’t explain a non starter. Was new battery like for like cold cranking capacity, AGM version?

Escalate this with your insurance company. They paid the bill and Audi as the repairer are indirectly involved. Pre-tensipner is very much safety related and it needs to be right, as is the seat if they have screwed it up. The insurance company will be bound by an ombudsman I suspect, but you need to give the company the right to resolve. Avoid email. This is a call initially via their complaints process.

Kwikfit not umdertaking top arms on a multilink suspension vehicle says it all. This is bread and butter stuff. If its top arms, which can be diagnosed with worn bushes is straight forward for a well equipped garage. It's a steel bolt on an alloy strut. Heat first with induction ring. Obviously clean area first. The pinch bolt as its know can be a pain. Air hammer too as aluminium oxide corrosion siezes it solid. Klann make a specific tool, or even Laser have a cheap option. Lemforder or Meyle HD for arms, don't be fobbed off with anything else. Get tracking alignment afterwards.

The Audi dealer network is only as good as the individuals that work for it, and to be honest should be held accountable in terms of customer service. Your recourse is to to speak to the Service Manager or Aftersales Manager at the franchise if this is related to warranty work and request a full explanation. If its related to an accident and your own insurance company are involved, then involve them. All too often its the customer that's stuck in the middle.

Specialist knowledge. Too little info for me to elaborate in a reply. For 2018 S4 - check out VAG technic on YouTube. Literally watch all the videos, and trust me there's an extensive back catalogue. B7 RS4 - these are old cars now, but still very desirable. Personally I'd have the B5 shape, but that's just me in terms of style. Everything about these cars is about service history. So servicing needs to be in a folder with all receipts and history to date, and absolutely no exceptions. These are pretty specialist engines with multiple sensors, so go into this with your eyes open and a have a decent contingency budget. If you can't do the work yourself - this is going to be a labour of love, as you'll be on first-name terms with your mechanic otherwise. In addition, at the very least - you want a full VCDS scan after a run, and to be honest a compression test. Check out Volkswizard. He's just bout the lowest priced B7 RS4 in the country: interesting viewing. https://www.youtube.com/@volkswizard/videos

Potentially three or four possibilities. Fuse gone (or relay), water jet pump defective or it's somehow blocked at the pump, or very unlikely at the water jets, especially if its been operational. I wouldn't expect the washer pipe to have detached, given weather has been mild and we've not even had a frost. C10 seems to be fuse location. If the fuse checks out - I'd be inclined to take a closer look at the pump, just in case it's clogged. Again, not uncommon if the tank has not been topped up with screen-wash, as you'll get algae growth. On A4 B9, the tank is on driver's side, so A5 must be the same. Wheel off, and then remove the wheel arch liner. Check the wiring, etc.

99% sure all roof rails are bolted from inside. I’m not aware of holes on roof rails and I’ve been driving Avants for years. Not sure why you want change them. Can they be wrapped instead? As mentioned, the reality of removing means removing a lot of interior trim to drop the headlining, including A Pillar, C Pillar, rear quarter, central convenience unit if it’s panoramic, but you have interior lights there anyway, sun visors, grab handles, etc. There’s curtain airbags in there too, so something else to consider. if you’re determined to do it, work clean. You’ll need special tool for interior grab handles.

Pointless using Audi main dealer on an 8 year old car. First off you’re paying around £180 an hour labour, then overpriced Audi branded parts. Chances are the oil and cabin filter are made by Mann which are OE. Oil is probably Quantum, but I use Castrol Edge. Incidentally you can get charcoal activated cabin filter over basic version. Secondly, when you come to ever sell the car, then full history is just a tick box. I do my own servicing, so when I sold an immaculate VW Polo (daily runner) a few years back to webuyanycar, they class it as part history, although every receipt for servicing was in a folder. A trusted Indy can service it and flag if there are any issues.

VCDS is the operating software. The USB dongle is the key part as it connects to the car and of course VCDS runs the diagnostic scan. Importantly, VCDS, only genuine copies are licensed, so once installed it will constantly search for latest update. In addition you can post scans on RossTech forum with tech queries if you’re stuck. Occasionally the dongle will require hardware firmware update too. I can honestly say it’s saved me a fortune over the years. BMW’s ISTA is very similar which I have a copy if too.

Don’t buy VCDS via EBay, buy it from Gendan UK. VCDS is RossTech and you get lifetime updates for software and genuine dongle to connect to car and laptop. You can buy in 3-VIN, 5-Vin or professional unlimited version. Regards connection, suspect it’s HEX-2. Gendan will be able to advise. On 2014 model you should be able to do most things, depends what you want it for. On 2020 or newer, then a number of restrictions in place regards adaptations that require dealer level ODIS system.

Gearbox likely to be S Tronic (7 speed DL501) which should have fluid and filter changed every 38-40k miles. Front and rear diff usually good for 100k miles but no reason you can’t do earlier. I think Audi approach to diffs is sealed for life, and will check levels only, which is utter nonsense. If that doesn’t work, then update via VCDS could help with gearbox adaption process. Find a decent Audi specialist and they should point you in right direction.. On a 2018 Q5 it may be ultra Quattro which means car is 2-wheel drive and engages 4-wheel drive via Haldex unit on rear diff rather than torsion. It’s due service every 20-30k miles and depending on generation, there’s an interior mesh screen that needs cleaned.

I don’t know specifically about A3, but I do know about A4 panoramic. I suspect the A3 will have two front drain holes in the internal cassette that exit just below the front door hinges. At the rear, again they may not be visible, but should exit at rear wheels behind inner wheel arch liner. If you open sunroof, you should be able to see the front drain holes. Be careful about running anything through them if trying to clean them. The drain tubes connect to a sunroof cassette via rubber grommet connection. You can run strimmer nylon line through it or compressed air via a smaller length of rubber tube. It’s a misconception that sunroofs provide watertight seal. They do not, the weather strip on the glass will provide some protection, but water that passes between the sunroof glass and the cassette underneath should drain out. The front A pillar trim in the car is plastic and covered with fabric, so you don’t realise there’s a leak until you notice condensation on windows or wet carpets. Underneath this trim will no doubt be curtain airbags. If you’re working in car, disconnect battery (put on trickle charge) and leave for 30 mins before you start work. There should be, if similar to A4 of this vintage, Torx screws behind airbag badges. You’ll also need to partially remove rubber door seal to a point, and internal sun visors, grab handles and roof controls. You’ll need special tool for grab handles. In my experience on A4, then it’s rarely the sunroof drains, but a manufacturing fault on the cassette. On A4 it was made by Webasto, so suspect A3 could be similar. The plastic and aluminium cassette is sandwiched with a sealant that fails. I can understand the urgency to repair. Audi would normally replace the cassette, if that’s what’s at fault, but you’re talking thousands to strip, remove and replace. They would do water test with most of interior trim removed and headliner dropped, before committing to repair. See what you find and come back to me and we can go from there on any repair if the cassette is leaking.

The correct grease (must be tears from a Unicorn) is VAG part number: G 000 450 02 (£50 GBP) for 90g.

A4 is springs, including A4 Allroad.

Agree, most third party warranties have more small-print than your average Hollywood prenuptial. Just follow servicing regime to the letter as preventative measure and put money aside for repairs down the line. In most instances a lack of servicing is attributed to potential fails.

Genuine VAG springs are colour coded as there are multiple variants, so there should be a series of coloured dots on them. Aftermarket, pretty sure won’t. if the car has a towbar, then potentially there your answer, however in defence, the tow hitch weight is max 80kg. In my experience, and I’ve owned 4 avants over the years is the fronts go, not normally the rears. Quick scan under the car will confirm.

Paul - my understanding of SFD and SFD2 which is on all new VAG cars post 2020 is to protect the car from unauthorised access. VAG no doubt see a financial return on over the air software updates, rather than a customer having to visit a dealer. Satellite navigation map updates for example. The trouble is the manufacturer needs to lock down access to the car otherwise someone could intercept it and the usual security concerns. VCDS can still scan the car and clear DTCs, but there will be certain modules that are not acceptable. This means programming and adaptation is off the table without a generated access token. You can get a token probably from an authorised user of ODIS. Back to your predicament. I think paying Audi to scan the battery and give you the health information you require is a good trade off before transferring the balloon payment. If you have doubts, step away and hand the car back and start the process again with another car. More details here: https://www.audi.co.uk/en/electric/faqs/battery/

It is what it is. The cameras aren't cheap and there's quite a bit of labour to feed through wiring and configure it. To be honest, some retrofits aren't cost effective, like folding mirrors for £1 or more if you want auto dim. It depends what you want. If it was essential, for example tight parking space at home, you'd be as well buy a different car.

Beware of USB dongles on Ebay or elsewhere. VCDS was dealer level software. I know VAG group are changing things because they don't like individuals doing the work themselves. Some independent garages are now having to invest in things like ODIS on newer models for even fairly basic things as part of servicing. So with genuine VCDS, and a three VIN licence. You can use that across different three cars. This has lifetime updates to the software, and you have access to VCDS forum worldwide if you're stuck. They are very knowledgeable, and as you'd expect they need you to post a scan of the car before they pass comment. Get an old laptop to run it, its not memory hungry. There are some YouTube tutorials, but if you're tech savvy then you'll pick it up. You can run a check on the car at any time. It will pick up on logged faults, when they occurred. And clear DTC faults. If they reocurr, then there's and underlying fault to resolve usually mechanical or electric. You can also view live data, etc. Bear in mind Audi currently charge £180ish to scan your car. One thing to note. Audi won't entertain diagnostic reports from yourself as part of any query. They will as you'd expect scan the car themselves if there was a claim on the mild hybrid battery for example. This is the same for BMW which offered 8 year warranty on high voltage battery. In the event claim was unsuccessful. You'd pay for their time. I think you're on good position as you've been financing car, and before ypu purchase outright, will they check battery health?

Interesting thread here: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/17037/ This is scanned by VCDS. Even if you didn't want to invest in VCDS (roughly £220 from Gendan) plus your own laptop, then go to Audi and ask them to measure it, especially before you pay the balloon payment. Battery degradation is entirely normal. Audi should be able to give you the parameters - as that's how the 8-year guarantee works. My wife has a BMW i3 REx (hybrid version), so there's a way to measure battery health without software using hidden menu, but I have ISTA so can dig deeper.

Quick scan for Audi retrofits says £1,795. https://www.hazzydayz.com/genuine-audi-front-rear--side-cameras----supply--fit-7669-p.asp

I think there's a little more than swapping like for like and suspect you'll need VCDS v OBD11. If the headlights are second-hand then there might be component protection on them, given units new are £2k for each headlight. If that's the case, then you're looking at dealer-level software such as ODIS to remove. Starter for ten look at parts on LLL parts and compare LED with LED Matrix. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3RS3/596/9 Also search Kufatec, they supply additional wiring or complete headlight kits. https://kufatec.com/en/led-matrix-headlights-with-led-drl-and-dynamic-blinker-for-audi-a3-8y/49200 You could take the hassle out of this and simply go to an Audi retro-fitter.

8MA945095J - however that's on US based cars. To be honest, this is likely to be fairly specialist, that might have to just go to Audi dealer, or claim through your insurance. Charles Trent are worth a search based on your registration. They have a 2025 Q5.

Had a look on a few sites - closer to a grand for standard folding mirrors. Add another £500 for auto-dimming. Honestly - it's daylight robbery. I currently push mine in! 😁