spartacus 68

Sounds like a catalogue of faults unfortunately. Potholes (depending how large) will damage suspension components, wheels, bearings, possible even a sump). The sound does point to DMF, which means you’ll need a new clutch too. The garage can advise, but trying to fix the engine seems pointless. If camshaft is worn, that indicates everything else will be suspect too, such as big end bearings. You could do a compression test to confirm that. Get garage to price second hand engine and gearbox and go from there. It does sound like this car had a hard life before you purchased it, and even with regular servicing post 75k, the damage was done. Incidentally, when was the DSG box last serviced?

Use a little Fairy Liquid in warm water and keep spraying the headlights while you work. It always looks worse to start with, sweep the headlight working methodically at medium speed, horizontal passes, then vertical. The courser sandpaper to start to flatten the road rash, then work to progressively fine. The headlight lens will look opaque. Don’t concentrate on one area or you’ll burn the plastic. Once the sandpaper part is done, move to the cutting compound with foam pad. The headlight just needs ocassional spray to keep damp and stop compound from clogging. Don’t press to hard. Wipe off with microfibre. Only apply UV sealant once you’re completely happy. As a starter, you could just buy an old headlight to practice on. I’m sure there’s YouTube videos too, so watch them before you start. Post some picture too.

Sounds like you’ve got nothing to lose regards headlight restoration. Plugging in non OE units is likely to throw up can bus errors. Assuming the headlight lens are plastic, then try wet sanding with a Sealey kit, all you will need is a variable speed drill. Usually sandpaper disc ranges from 600-3000 grit, wet lubed as you work. The kits usually have a cutting compound once sanding is done which will be something like Menzerna, then coat with a UV protectant. I’d remove the headlights and work on a bed of old towels. Masking bodywork will end in tears otherwise. Blank the headlight backs with a suitable rubber tape to stop water ingress.

If you're spraying, then Würth silver is factory OE. It's a lot of work in terms of prep. Will need a few coats of lacquer to seal.

They have been re-painted. Pretty sure that would have been diamond cut alloys with contrast silver. If they are damaged, you'll need to get them all powder-coated. Personally not a big fan of colour-coded alloys. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/277640139126?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-166974-033325-9&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=277640139126&targetid=2304343365564&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9180599&poi=&campaignid=22100439089&mkgroupid=173737129592&rlsatarget=pla-2304343365564&abcId=10153988&merchantid=114957298&geoid=9180599&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22100439089&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Lr1eowlIjvyw2uDwyHDLkwiFgo&gclid=CjwKCAiAnoXNBhAZEiwAnItcGylaNAWmodaoJrWBjIecTDtcbW7Qb_KPJoO2gyx-7BP2s9ooqnaxJhoCqVwQAvD_BwE

I’m on my second A4 Allroad and can recommend. They’re not that common, and are generally well built. B8 cars were produced from (2008-2012), with B8.5 facelift (2013-2015), and B9 (2016-2024). First things first, these cars have multi-link suspension, which is coil springs and alloy arms. If you want air suspension, then you’ll need to go down the A6 Allroad route. Generally suspension is fine until around 100k miles, but some are hydra-bushes, so check the servicing. They do have increased ride height, and body cladding on arches, although I’ve seen models where the plastic panels are painted. I used to have a 2012 B8 A4 Allroad with 2.0TDI (177PS) with 6-speed manual, that would have been Euro 5. I now have a 3.0TDI (272PS), Euro 6 of course, plus it has bullet-proof Tiptronic 8-speed transmission. It’s very comfortable to drive, fast when you need to be, and because it can lay down 600Nm of torque with permanent 4x4, then it’s happy hauling a loaded trailer too. The B8 was a good introduction, but if you’re going for diesel, then it will be Euro 6, which means it meets clean air zones in cities. To do this it has AdBlue, DPF, EGR and catalytic converters. If these go wrong it’s expensive. On every AdBlue top up, I add Forte anti-crystal to reduce likelihood of issues. I think the B9 is reliable. I do my own servicing, so change the oil every 5k miles, but generally, no more than 10k miles. On current 2.0 TDIs, I think they are 190PS, and will likely be paired with S Tronic 7 speed auto box. The transmission needs serviced every 38k miles religiously. The 2.0 TFSI cars are rarer, but use Haldex system if I’m not mistaken (Quattro with ultra technology), so 4WD engages if it loses traction. That needs serviced every 20-30k miles. Power wise I think 252PS (up to 2021) with 2024 models achieving 261PS (badged as 45TFSI, plus it’s mild hybrid (something else to go wrong in my book). Work out what extras you want. Audi went down pack or bundle routes years ago, but they can be tight. Retro-fitting anything is expensive, so draw up a shortlist of things you can’t live without and go from there. If your budget allows, then Vorsprung includes everything such as 360 degree cameras, matrix headlights, lane assist, but these cars will be £40k price bracket. My advice, avoid any car on a long service regime (up to 18k miles between oil changes), or you’ll pick up the bill for engine issues down the line. On 2.0 diesels, they will be cambelt, so 5 years or 60k miles, and renew water pump too. 3.0 litre diesels are chain driven.

Probably needs scanned with VCDS. There's probably a sensor or electrical connection somewhere. Similar thread here with discussion regards Bolton Car Interiors and AS Pickering (Bradford), both roof specialists.

Can’t comment on the clutch, whoever had the car before could have been riding it. Regards misfires, a fuel injector on the way out could cause similar issues, such as combustion bypass or copper washer sealing has been compromised.

Have you scanned the car with VCDS? Audi sunroofs needs to go through a relearn process if the motor has been renewed for example.

Water will find the path of least resistance to get in. Obvious suspects are rubber boot seal, rear lights and equalising vents behind the rear bumper. In extreme examples, even down to bodywork seam sealer or lack of it! If it’s avant, there’s the possibility if rear wash wipe. Units are made by Valeo and copper/brass pipe is known weak point to shear. To show the extremes you may need to go to, watch this. Moving forward, strip out the boot trim or tailgate trim, so you are down to bare metal. Line the boot area with paper towels, held in place with masking tape. Shouldn’t take long to identify source, which you can then get visual on.

For wiring diagram, set up account with erWin (pay to view). https://volkswagen.erwin-store.com/erwin/showHome.do LLL Parts doesn’t reveal much. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/AQ5/896/9/907/907045

Not asking why you’re going from bi-xenon to LED which seems retrograde step, but this should help. Should be in driver’s footwell where relays live on right-hand drive. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/412/9/941/941025 On bi-xenon you’ll have headlight self levelling on passenger side front and rear suspension. Not sure if you disable this module you’ll disable headlight wash too?

Going from an A6 Allroad, I’ll bet you’ll feel the difference. As far as I know SQ and Q5, you can go down to 18”. They are 8.0J pattern wheels. Check the back of the existing 21” wheels for the offset. Assuming tyres are currently 255/40 R21 on 21” 8.5J, wheels that’s based on 2025 model year. Going down to say, 19” which would be good compromise, they would be 235/55 R19 (available on S Line). More details here, taken from 2020 45 TFSI PDF: https://press.audi.co.uk/assets/documents/original/1889-AudiQ545TFSIquattroStronicUKTechnicalDataNovember2020.pdf Alloy wheels from 2018 model year (page 31 of PDF): https://press.audi.co.uk/assets/documents/original/21084-AudiUK00017541AudiQ5andSQ5Brochure.pdf Like everything, do your due diligence. Online alloy wheel configuration handy to cross check, or speak to local tyre fitters you trust.

Audi main dealer will be £200+ per hour and VCDS scan usually £150 before they even get a spanner out. The part I think is 06L121111P which for genuine Audi is in region of £530 for 2.0 TFSI engine.

Difficult to tell. VCDS might reveal more. Ad Blue faults include level sensor, heater or pump in the tank. The tank comes as an integrated unit which is swapped over. On a functioning AdBlue tank, you'll get a count-down until zero, at which point it needs to be filled with reductant or indeed reset possibly with ODIS which is dealer level. I'd keep journeys to a minimum, because if the car is giving you false information, you could be left high and dry, then face recovery charges. Moving forward - start adding Forte Anti-crystal tat every AdBlue top-up.

In my experience, third-party warranties aren't worth the paper they are written on. There's so much small-print and clauses, and in some cases for a mechanical issue claim for example, the car has to be serviced every 6 months in order to comply and be stamped by VAT registered garage. That was my experience with an Auto Protect warranty. Not sure about Group1 Assured. Bear in mind, car is 2014, so now 12 years old. Check condition of roof, and carpets for any water ingress. Also check roof function, is it smooth operation, or any hesitation? Any issues with the roof - then flag with garage before the deal is done. Again, any roof issues down the line, avoid the main dealer or you'll be crippled by their labour rate. There are third-party businesses that specialise with convertibles, that will do a better job, even if it means travelling and a couple of nights accommodation. Example here: https://hoodtech.co.uk/audi-a3-cabriolet-2013-2021 I think with an older car - set aside a fix-fund for a potential roof fix, and hope it never happens, and service the car in line with manufacturer recommendation. Regards S Tronic transmission. This needs to have been serviced every 38k miles, no exception.

First thing to do is run a scan on the car with VCDS, especially if you know the car has a few problems to sort, then you know exactly what you’re dealing with. This is a good video on a blank MMI screen on a 2009 Q7. Very methodical approach. Turns out there was damage to the central control from a spilled drink, but there’s also a 15A fuse behind the radio that brought the MMI screen back to life, although functionality was still an issue until the central controller circuit board was replaced due to corrosion.

Learn something new every day. That film is based on a Stephen King novel, directed by John Capenter. The car is a 1958 Plymouth Fury which is no doubt living its best life as a can on tuna now! Best of luck regards the dash fix. Personally I could live with it, rather than strip it out.

Second hand, usually a breaker, however be warned, regards some of these business. Read reviews for feedback. Have bought a window regulator before from Charles Trent, and good experience. Example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/227004800446?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&ff=11&gbraid=0AAAAADA7Q_IIDuta8w1Fw95T_b7B__VVg&loc_physical_ms=9220740&adtype=pla&customid=EAIaIQobChMI5JnH54jrkgMV15lQBh2TgxVaEAQYASABEgKemPD_BwE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5JnH54jrkgMV15lQBh2TgxVaEAQYASABEgKemPD_BwE LLL Parts for part numbers. I’ve no idea what the variations are though. LLL Parts aren’t listing separate list for SQ5. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/AQ5/751/0/075/75010

I’m going by your heading, auto-correct won the day? 😆 Did a quick reverse image check in Google and that symbol is linked to adaptive suspension. I also came across a guy who can light up the dash like a Christmas tree on YouTube and it was the same symbol. Air suspension was standard on A6 Allroad and S6, and possibly a very expensive extra from new on other models. Got me thinking, that the C6 probably shares the dash across all models and it’s some weird glitch? On a positive note it’s illuminated green, so it’s not a physical error. Are headlights working fine? Only reason I mention, on Avant, there’s wired self-levelling sensors on passenger side front and rear built into suspension. The mechanical balljoint arms are known to seize or break, but you’d know about it soon enough as your headlights would randomly dip and raise. Not sure if C6 had them, but my old B8 Allroad did with bi-xenon headlights. If you have VCDS, then scan again and look at all spurious DTC faults. If you ever get to the bottom of it I’d be interested to know.

Genuine OE ones are £1,500 which will we anodised aluminium or stainless steel. Amazon ones are a fraction of that and couple of hundred pounds and will probably look ropey within a year given they are exposed to the elements. It’s not just the boards, it’s the fixing brackets which will have been given a quick powder coat to keep corrosion at bay. Ultimately you get what you pay for. If you can get a set of second hand OE boards, that would probably be the way to go.

Just had a quick scan of previous MOTs, nothing major, and it’s been SORNed or done very little mileage, but it has MOT. Ultimately it’s a very niche market, and B4 shape is the best shape in my opinion, and a great colour combination too. There’s a private seller on Autotrader with a similar car, same age, 2.6 V6 with auto box in what I would describe as okay condition, 95k miles for £8,500, which in my opinion is over-priced. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202503109974956? Compare that to this immaculate 2001 version, 2.8 V6 on 44k miles in Kingfisher Blue, and it’s worth every penny of £8,500. https://www.carandclassic.com/l/C1931451 Buyers will be looking for an unmolested example, original condition, and no signs of water ingress. On classic cars, they reckon £6k is average price based on recent sales.

I’d be tempted to throw in a new relay, and see if that makes any difference. If you’ve changed the motor and stalk, then that would have been on my suspect list. No idea who is quoting £600. A competent auto-electrical engineer would be able to track down with a multimeter quite quickly, all you’re paying for is their time.

Had a look online today. S3 suspension is pretty basic for what it is, say comparing to multi-link suspension, so in theory should be easier to diagnose. With all suspension related clunks, then start on the cheap side before you swap out major components. As suggested, check the coil springs. With the state of the roads, not unusual to lose an inch on the end of the coi springl, either top or bottom. Wheel needs to be off to make a proper check, and you’re looking for sharp edges on the ends of the coil. On a 2016 car, then shock absorber/strut isn’t a bad call, however, is it misting? Also look at the bump stops and their conditioning, it might be bottoming out? ARB links, and ARB bushes would be next culprit. That just leaves the top mount and the wishbone arm bushes.

Yes, it’s a laborious job. Fine if you have the time, space and facilities to work under cover.