cliffcoggin

Thanks Lee. I am sure that information will be useful to many. Unfortunately it will not help Mark because he has not been back to the forum since he posed his question on 5th February.

Vanessa. [1] I have no idea how Carplay can drain the battery. I don't even know what a Carplay looks like, but you said it was defective so it seems a likely cause of the problem. [2] I am still suspicious of the battery indicator in your car. To accurately measure battery condition is not an easy task, and the fact that you only get readings of either 10% or 100%, with nothing in between, makes me even more suspicious. [3] It is perfectly possible to charge the battery while it is connected if you use the correct type of charger. The bulky old fashioned high current chargers that output as much as 10 amps would be unwise; a modern so-called intelligent charger that monitors charge level is fine. As i said before, I think you need the help of an auto electrician who can properly test the flow of electricity in to and out of the battery, not a car technician who can only read error codes from a computer.

Please do.

I have merged two identical topics.

The Audi recommendation for cambelt renewal has changed over the years from around 80000 to 140000 and all shades in between, as you will see if you search these forums. The average recommendation from forum members in the trade is around 80000 miles or five years, whichever comes first. It's an expensive job, but nowhere near as expensive as the consequences of cambelt failure i.e. a new engine.

I'm glad to read you can enter the car again. Let us hope the battery has not been damaged by the time it was uncoded. Assuming the battery level shown in the car is accurate it seems that there is something draining the battery. The obvious suspect is the defective car play device, however it would be worth visiting an auto electrician to get confirmation of that before spending any more money. He may find a fault in the alternator for example which can also drain the battery. (It is unfortunate that even specialists sometimes rely too much on the computer, and too little on their brains, when a diagnosis is needed.) In the meantime it would be worth connecting a battery charger overnight if possible, to keep the battery charged.

I have a feeling that the CCM may need to be coded to the car. Not entirely sure though.

You would not believe how hard it is to convince members about the need for battery coding. The old criteria of "if the battery cranks the engine it is fine" refuses to die.

Having eliminated the most likely fault it's time to look elsewhere. If the fault is affecting both rear doors and the boot I doubt all three individual locks are defective, so it must be a control problem, though I would expect VCDS to have revealed it. All I can suggest is an auto electrician.

Any progress on this Anthony?

I have no idea.

Any progress in your quest Terry?

Annual servicing without a doubt. Nobody ever suffered a problem by changing the oil earlier than recommended.

I suggest you go to an independent VAG specialist in your area for the repairs rather than Audi. They are generally cheaper and sometimes more competent than main dealers. An internet search should reveal several. I make no comment on your plans to map the engine for more power. Search these forums for similar topics.

Thank you for that comprehensive report. It is something we can refer members to when we get import queries.

Does the manual not give sufficient information? https://www.alpine-electronics.no/fileadmin/user_upload/manuals//2018/CDE-205DAB_UTE-204DAB_UTE-202DAB/OM_CDE-205DAB_UTE-204DAB_UTE-202DAB_EN.pdf

The car's demands for servicing are supposedly calculated from the sort of driving it has done. Ignore those demands and Audi will, rightly or wrongly, have an excuse to void the warranty.

Check the details of the warranty. They are normally worded to require the servicing to be done after a certain time or a certain mileage, whichever comes first.

Congratulations. For the benefit of others on the forum, would you briefly summarise the bureaucratic hurdles you jumped over to register and use the car in the UK please? We get occasional queries from folk who buy Japanese imports.

Sean. I suggest you start a new topic of your own rather than derailing an existing unrelated topic. Feel free to link back to this one if necessary. I have locked this topic to avoid any further confusion.

Coding the battery means to programme the charging system for the type and capacity of the new battery to ensure it is charged at the correct rate. It is done with a computer gadget plugged into the car, and is not something the average owner would do himself. It's the sort of job best left to a professional because of the equipment cost. Unless the coding is done it is possible for the new battery to be damaged. I am curious to know how you are measuring the battery strength as a percentage. The meters I am familiar with give readings in volts not percent. You have not mentioned the extra electrical equipment I asked about, nor any diagnostic work.

Thanks for letting us know. How much is the repair going to cost?

Please do Phil, because I can not believe adding extra oil to the gearbox can solve what is clearly an electronic problem. To my mind the battery and the ECU are still the most likely culprits.

Remapping for more power is going to put more strain on every part of the ten year old engine and transmission, thus reducing the car's overall durability and reliability. The choice is yours, but there is always a price to pay. Don't forget your insurance premium will also probably increase.

Des. Being a brand new car I would expect the dealer you bought it from to be the first person to seek advice from in case it is a fault that comes under the guarantee.