cliffcoggin

Charge it daily at work. Charge it once per week at a public charge point. Charge it at a supermarket while shopping. Charge it at a garage en route from work. Those options may not be as convenient as home charging, but are entirely possible.

I know you have seen the above two questions Kian, so I can only assume you are unwilling to help other members of the forum by replying. One warning coming up.

Well if you don't know what aspects of a car appeal to you how can I possibly suggest something you might like? From a purely practical point of view of using the car for a daily commute of eighteen miles with minimal wear and cost a battery electric car would be most suitable.

What's a plip?

Is it petrol, diesel, or hybrid?

A common problem with Audis of that era is damage to the wires within the rubber bellows between door and frame. It is worth checking all doors and the boot lid.

Any update for us Kian?

Alex. Given your evident lack of knowledge about cars and how to care for them, I ask again why you are so insistent on this one particular engine? The car you enquired about is utterly unsuited to the type of driving you do, so what is guiding your choices?

It's a known problem with your type of short journey driving that will prematurely ruin any engine.

Spartacus made a good point about insurance claims. If there were any they would have jacked up your premiums.

Congratulations. Perhaps the seller faced bureaucratic hurdles posting it to outside the EU.

Good man. I wish other new members would do the same. Welcome.

Ouch! That's going to be an expensive welding repair because it cannot be done in situ.

That is the right technique, but the ignition needs to be on.

Parts for all models less than ten years old should still be available from Audi. Have you tried?

David. I recall reading about that problem a couple of times in the forum. Sorry, but I don't believe a solution was found.

A pity you did not mention that earlier. Given how cheap the car was, you must have wasted almost as much money on the new pedal and the new master cylinder. Money you could have spent on a slave cylinder.

Realistically Dillon, and assuming you have shopped around for better prices, with your age against you all you can do is swap the car for an older, cheaper, less powerful vehicle, and park it in a garage overnight if possible.

Good luck with that Adam. You'll need luck when the clutch fails miles from home and you can't engage any gears without grinding them.

Evidently the matter is not doing Stuart's head at all as he has not returned to the forum since joining, and he has wasted everyone's time. Oh well, that's another one for the blacklist.

The difference between front and rear is only the tyre widths, not the diameters, so in that respect they are safe. Whether they should be the same width in regard to wear and handling may be a different matter as I am aware that Quattros are sensitive to mismatching of tyres. I'll leave that for somebody more knowledgeable to answer. I too wonder why narrower tyres have been fitted to the front. Was it for economy or could it have been because the suspension has been modified to need more clearance from wheel arches? It would be worth investigating the suspension before spending money on new tyres.

It wouldn't hurt to grind a small chamfer on the bolts to ease them into the holes.

And was it coded to the car?

Hello sorry i wasnt sure how to reply i have now figured it out. It is worth only what somebody will pay for it, whether that is £800 or £8000.