Steve Q

Very good question, not sure what a full cycle would be to be honest.

Dark side developments aren't the cheapest but as the saying goes you get what you pay for.

You're welcome 🙂 In theory no, but if it were mine id try and get the up to date part and a genuine one at that. As is the age old saying "you get what you pay for".

Go for which ever one has the newest letter. Ie B is the updated part from.the one ending in A etc.

*Disclaimer: This installation guide is only that, a guide. If you run into challenges or think this may be too over your head, please contact a mechanic in your area to do it for you. By following this guide, you agree that robspace.net or any associates are affiliates are not responsible for any damage that may be caused to you, your car, your tools, or anything else you can think of. STM (Street Tuned Motorsports) has been a widely recognized and respected tuner in the Nissan world for quite some time. They’ve been the name behind some of the fastest Evo’s and GTR’s in the world, and more importantly for myself and other Audi-philes, they’ve recently decided to enter the realm of the RS3. This post serves as a walkthrough of the installation of their new intercooler for the 2017+ 8v FL RS3, based on the 1000hp rated Garret core. This Intercooler core is supporting massive builds, and should be more than enough to support the RS3, even as modifications build. For more information on the actual intercooler itself, please check out my full review. Overview of the process: Here’s what you’re getting yourself into: Removal of wheels Removal of front pieces of fender liner Removal of bumper Removal of screws for headlights Removal of crash bar and associated components Removal of factory intercooler Install STM Intercooler Re-installation of all of the rest If the above list scares you, and this guide scares you, you may want to enlist some professional assistance. I tackled this by myself, in my garage, with only the assistance of jack stands as well as a cardboard box with a towel over the top of it (to support the bumper when it came off the car). An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but is far from necessary. Tools List: Impact Wrench (for removal of bolts, only) 17mm Socket T-25, T-27, T-30 Torx drivers T-25, T-27, T-30 Torx Bits (for a socket wrench/impact wrench) 6 inch extension for above wrench Vice Grips (or other clamping pliers to hold the washer fluid line) Two jack stands Automotive jack Wheel chocks 10mm Socket 14mm Socket Flat-Head screwdriver 1: Place your car on jack stands, and remove the front wheels This is a great time to clean things out, check your brake pads, inspect your rotors, and generally make sure things look “okay” for the future. Some people have indicated that you can do this without removing the wheels – you probably can, however I believe it’s far easier with them off, and the vehicle in the air. I used a Ryobi 20v impact wrench with a Husky 17mm wheel socket, which is covered in plastic to protect your wheels during use. 2: Remove the screws of the plastic wheel-well covers You only need to remove the ones in front of the shock/spring assembly. 3: Remove screws at the bottom of the bumper Remove the three screws at the bottom of the car – you do *not* need to remove the oil pan cover. These are T-30, and match the three at the top of the bumper (but do the top ones last!). 4: Remove the screws from the sides (wings) of the bumper These were the trickiest for me; as I couldn’t find a good aspect for what to remove. You need to peel back the wheel well liner a bit, and unscrew the T-27 from the outermost post. The inside one does *not* need to be removed (circled in red with a strike-through, in the below photo). The next screw, I struggled to get a picture of. You need to pull back a little more of the wheel well liner, up above the last screw you removed. When you do this, you’ll find the T-27, and it’s hard to get to and reach, but fortunately it’s not terribly tight. I used a 1/4 inch ratchet with a 6 inch extension, plus a T-27 1/4 bit to make it all work. The photo below was taken with the screw removed so that it contrasts better with the flash so that you can see the hole. Once you’ve done this, you can pull back the wing edges from the side of the car (it’s a little bit of a tug to do it…) 5: Remove top screws Remove the three T-30 screws from the top of the bumper. 6: Pull the bumper away from the car SLOWLY!!! I had an amazon box with a microfiber towel to rest the bumper on temporarily. You’ll need to disconnect the washer fluid line: And the park-assist sensor cable (if equipped) before pulling too hard on the bumper. 7: Loosen, but do not remove the headlights Three Torx on top: One Torx at the front: No need to do much more than that for now. 8: Remove ACC radar and temperature sensor Use an Allen key to remove the sensor, including bracket from the crash bar. The temperature sensor has a pin in the center that can be pushed out, and then pushed through the back-side. Be careful with this, as I did break the bracket (sponsored by Gorilla Glue, now!). STM included a new bracket, which I took the opportunity to mount (T27 again, I believe). 9: Remove the horns and let them hang T27 – unscrew them and let them hang. 10: Remove the remainder of the bolts for the crash bar This gets tricky – As you remove these, you’ll notice that the entire radiator assembly tries to slide down – It’s important that you note roughly where this was when you started, hindsight, you might even want to take a 2×4 or something else relatively flat to place under the radiator mount (at the bottom) to ensure it doesn’t slide at all. If it does, you risk that your hood won’t line up anymore, and it will need to be adjusted a bit (more on that later). 11: Removal of the crash bar Slide the headlights out and to the sides of the car, creating a bit of wiggle room for your crash bar – you’ll lift up and rotate away from the car, and it should slide past the headlights. 12: Remove the factory intercooler Using a flathead screwdriver, loosen both hose clamps. You may need to use the flathead to get the hoses lose, but I did not. Using a <size> socket, remove the two bolts holding down the factory intercooler. This should now just lift straight off. 13: Installation of the STM intercooler Pretty straight forward, slide the hoses over the ends of the intercooler, and tighten down. 14: Rebuilding the car! Pretty much go through everything in reverse order. Here are the ‘gotchas’ I ran into during re-assembly: When you re-install the crash bar, make sure that it’s in pretty close to the same position it was when you took it off. Re-installing the hard-to-reach screw inside the wheel well – There’s no really good way that I found to do this, so I took my watch and wedding band off, and literally just shoved my hand up there until i made it fit. I did shove a head-lamp inside so that I could have a bit of light. YMMV… When you close the hood, you may find that it doesn’t line up. If needed, there are a pair of T30 screws on each hood latch bar (left and right side of the underside of the hood). Screw these in and out as needed to ensure alignment. Once you get these aligned, you can lower/raise the rubber bump-stops up or down to ensure that the hood doesn’t rattle while closed and fits nice and snug. I personally aimed for the point where I didn’t need to slam it, but could close it gently and then simply “push” down to get each side to latch. https://robspace.net/2018/06/24/2018-8v-audi-rs3-intercooler-install-guide/

As the title says please see attached the dpf doc for fitting a load guard to a b9 Avant. I hope it's useful 🙂 8W9017221_ENG.PDF

As the title says please see attached the dpf doc for fitting twin intercoolers to a A3 8p. Hope it's useful 🙂 FMINTA3FS INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

Check out how to install the Audi Apple CarPlay module. First of all need to take off main MMI component & air climate panel. Audi Q3 RMC unit To pull off this unit, you’ll need VW radio removal tools. VW radio removal tools Insert VW removal tools inside the two holes in each side of MMI unit. You will hear a “click” noise, then you can pull off whole unit. After that disconnect all cables from unit. Now we need to make few changes to have a sound coming from CarPlay to MMI (the hardest part – we recommend to do this via advanced installers). NOTE!! THIS IS ONLY FOR AUDI Q3 OWNERS!! IN A6 / A1 DO NOT NEED DOING THIS!!! YOU ONLY NEED TO HAVE AUX After that, you need take off climate control panel as will need put cable spliter there. The best way to remove it, is using trim removal tools on each side: Audi Q3 climate control panel removal Audi Q3 climate control panel removal and pull it off. Another step is to connect all cables like on this diagram and the last one is to check if everything works fine! hope this has helped link: https://carsie.net/tutorials/apple-carplay-installation-manual-for-audi-a1-a3-q3-rmc-units/ 🙂

As the title says please see attached the dpf doc for fitting a centre console storage compartment. Hope it's useful 🙂 Audi front stowage console.pdf

As the title says please see the pdf doc for beta Installation for A4 b9, S4, A6, Q3, Q8 etc. Audi_s4_installguide (1).pdf

As the title suggests please see the attached PDF document for Q3 side step fitting guide. Hope it's useful 🙂 Audi Q3 SIde Steps Installation Guide (1).pdf

Hi Jean I believe they should be a direct fit with no modifications required.

Definitely get a professional remap on a rolling road for best results. The likes of thanos tuning, Revo or dark side developments come recommend by members

eBay should be your best bet. Alternatively look for a more up to date version 🙂 usually the last letter will change.

Yep that's about right. I believe the car has to be plugged in to a computer that's directly contacted to Audi Germany.

You're welcome 🙂 the manual box will be more than capable 👍

You're most welcome 🙂

It seems increasingly certain that the Volkswagen Group will enter Formula 1. It will then do so with Porsche and Audi. The latter of those two brands seemed interested in McLaren, but team boss Andreas Seidl thinks Audi is actually a much better fit for Sauber. Sauber in league with Audi? In recent weeks there has been much talk about the possible entry of Porsche and Audi into Formula 1. Porsche seems to be entering a partnership with Red Bull Racing, while Audi is still somewhat searching. The German brand would have made a bid for McLaren's F1 team, but Audi would not meet the financial demands of the British team. As a result, the German brand is now linked to Sauber, which currently still goes through life as Alfa Romeo. Seidl was long involved in the Sauber and BMW project, which had a deal from 2006 to 2009. Audi is said to be interested in a similar deal. "Audi and Sauber would be a good fit for the future. The Swiss have a great infrastructure with the wind tunnel and they would be ready for such a task," he says in conversation with Blick. Big plans from Audi Not only a combination of Sauber and Audi is among the possibilities. Aston Martin would also be interested in a partnership with Audi. At the moment it is far from certain where Audi will end up, but the German brand's plans in F1 do not seem to be getting any smaller. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.gpblog.com/en/amp/108809/mclaren-team-boss-audi-and-sauber-would-be-a-good-match.html

Is something grand coming from Audi in the waning days of internal-combustion performance? There's a fresh rumor of the R8 gaining an RS badge as a swan song to the series, called the V10 Performance RS Final Edition. It could pack a 650-horsepower (485-kilowatt) punch, and we might see it by the end of this year. It must be noted that this is an unconfirmed rumor at this point. A recent post from TheSupercarBlog claims to have inside information on the R8, though a specific source for the info isn't known. Motor1.com contacted Audi seeking comment on the report, with a spokesperson stating there is no information available for any R8 models not currently available in the lineup. It's certainly not a confirmation, but it's not a denial, either. The R8 RS Final Edition is a rumor for now, but it's not without some merit. In January, our spy photographers captured an R8 testing in Sweden and it was ... different. The car wore no camouflage and didn't have notable design changes, but it was awash with winglets and other aerodynamic tidbits. A massive rear wing with Audi branding sat on the tail. The front lip spoiler was a bit bigger. Curiously, the latest rumor does mention aero upgrades as part of the RS Final Edition, in addition to power. Speaking of which, the prototype appeared to have wires running from the engine bay to the interior, perhaps gathering information on the V10. Add it all up, and there's certainly a strong case to be made for something grand in the R8's near future. Whether it will be 650 hp remains to be seen, as that would be a notable upgrade from the 602 hp (449 kW) currently offered in the V10 Performance. It would also best the Lamborghini Huracan STO and recently announced Huracan Tecnica, which uses the same V10 to develop 631 hp (471 kW). Of course, the Huracan and R8 have been linked since the very beginning, sharing platforms and powertrains. Would Lamborghini be content to let the R8 have a power advantage for its final hurrah? Possibly, but who says the Huracan won't go out with some grand final edition of its own? https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.motor1.com/news/580569/audi-r8-could-get-rs-final-edition/amp/

Remember the capital letter-averse Audi skysphere and grandsphere concepts from 2021? The former was a mad Transformer-style roadster while the latter was a super swoopy four-seat grand tourer. Anyway, at the time of their unveilings we were told that there would be a third and final concept that followed a similar theme. It was to be called the ‘urbansphere’ and of course we all expected a small city car concept. Something like a futuristic A1 with autonomous driving capabilities, for example. Well, we were right about the autonomous driving thing, but goodness, the urbansphere is not small. In fact, Audi says that it’s the largest car or concept that the company has ever built. It’s been designed with ‘Chinese megacities’ in mind and is a result of a collaboration between Audi’s crayon studio in Beijing and its HQ in Ingolstadt. Oh, and ‘potential customers’ in China were also consulted for ideas. Don’t go thinking it’s a signature on the dotted line away from production though, this is still very much a concept car for now. Audi says it “showcases its vision of the premium mobility of tomorrow” and that the urbansphere has been “systematically designed from the inside out”. Naturally then, we’ll start with the exterior. What renegades we are. It’s certainly interesting though, because although Audi says that this concept “defies classification into conventional vehicle categories", we’re pretty sure it just looks like a giant MPV. And we’re okay with that – they were incredibly practical the first time around. To give you a sense of scale – the urbansphere is over 5.5m long, 2.01m wide and almost 1.8m tall. The wheelbase is also a huge 3.4m (or roughly the same length as a whole kei car). There’s loads of glass, huge Audi Avus-inspired 24-inch wheels and some very fancy light surfaces front and rear. There’s also some hints of a bloated A2 in the shape, don’t you think? Underneath is Audi’s upcoming PPE electric car platform. So, like in the grandsphere, there’s a 120kWh battery and an electric motor on both axles for a total of 395bhp and 509lb ft of torque driving all four wheels. Audi reckons on a total range of 466 miles and it’ll accept charge at a super speedy 270kW. That means you could get around 186 miles of extra range from a 10-minute stop. Because it’s a city car (although not as we know it), there’s rear wheel steer to ensure that it’s manoeuvrable and adaptive air suspension to cope with poor quality tarmac. So, that interior then. There are suicide doors that swing open and you’re greeted by a virtual red carpet. Once inside the steering wheel and pedals retract because it’d be capable of Level 4 autonomous driving (of course), and the display up front is projected onto that giant wooden dash. Like in the grandsphere, though, it’s the rear seats where you really want to be. The giant armchairs rotate and recline, and as well as small screens in the back of the front seats there’s also a giant transparent OLED cinema screen that pivots down from the roof. Whole lot of space just for four passengers, though, isn’t it? As you’d expect from a 2022 concept, there are many recycled and recyclable materials inside, including bamboo viscose fabric and something called ECONYL, a recycled polyamide. Lovely light colours too. Between the rear seats there’s a water dispenser, and Audi says that the urbansphere “qualifies as a wellness zone” thanks to its use of a facial scanning system and voice analysis that can determine if you’re feeling stressed. If you’re sounding strained, the car will bring up a meditation app or play soothing sounds through the headrest-mounted speakers. Anyone else reckon they’d get more stressed with the knowledge that the car is judging them? https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.topgear.com/car-news/concept/audi-urbansphere-concept-giant-mpv-designed-china%3famp=1

Looks like your old one is still out there. Not been on the road since 2015.

Snooze you loose lol.

Is it an auto or manual gearbox? I ask because if it's fitted with the multitronic (CVT gearbox) then just be careful as they're known not to cope too well under loads. Here's a link to a topic on towing with a multitronic: https://www.caravantalk.co.uk/community/topic/108770-audi-multitronic-owners-advice-please/ But you might have the tiptronic auto instead. Here's a link to the differences: https://www.audiworld.com/how-tos/a/audi-a4-b7-multitronic-vs-tiptronic-transmission-421219

I know the feeling as I was in the same boat. I've yet to find one that works well. Have you tried the suction cup ones that stick to the windscreen?

Please keep us posted on how you get on with the catclean when it arrives 🙂