Steve Q

As long as the car has been well maintained you should be ok. For example my 20 year old A6 that's covered 340k still tows occasionally with Ifor Williams trailers/car transporter trailers etc. The engine and gearbox have never been rebuilt. The rear shocks were only changed last year. it's the second set of rear shocks from new. My wife and I are even considering getting a caravan (I'd even love a small boat lol) and wouldn't hesitate to tow with my ageing a6 👍

Sorry to hear this has happened. I've found these on eBay which show a part number: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224871465901?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hckC_5cnRc6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=IE07kO4STZy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143885363093?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=qxbYmN0-T8m&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=IE07kO4STZy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I appreciate these are for complete mirrors but having the spares might not be a bad thing. I have looked for the cap part number on its own without success so far. Alternatively Audi should be able to provide you the part number. I've found this fitting guide for when you do source a replacement: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/audi-a5-s5-rs5-coupe-cabrio-b9-220/chrome-mirror-caps-retrofit-a5-3014287/

Restarting this thread...

Looking good! 🙂 Would look good with a couple of audiownersclub.com stickers 😉

My sticker collection has gained a bit lol 🤣 Let's see those stickers...

I think the seats will differ due to the size of the car. Plus s line seats will differ to comfort Sears too.

You're welcome 🙂 hopefully it gets sorted soon 🙂

I agree with cliff, it's worth removing the switch and checking to see if theres electricity getting to the switch. As cliff days broken wires become common on older Audi cars along with central locking issues in general. I've had issues both with broken wires and failing locking modules for example. I've also done a comprehensive search on Google but haven't found anything specific. As I say I'd definitely look at the button and wiring first. A new button should be less than £20.

S tronic gearbox is a sister box to the VW dsg which is the best auto on the market. What ever the official mpg figures are take 10 off them. My dad had an A3 with the same engine and when I drive it I could get into the 50s. That's motorway driving.

Great recommendation 🙂 it can be hard getting good quality carpet mats at reasonable prices.

If you can't do it via vcds my advice would be to speak to a retrofitter to see if they can do it. Or alternatively speak to Audi.

Good luck, please keep us posted on how you get on. Don't let them fob you off - which it sounds they're trying to do.

Glad you got sorted 🙂 thank you so much for updating us. You'd be surprised how many people don't.

I know that this year and next Audi are bringing out upgraded models. Take a look at the news section. As such I wouldn't be surprised if they do.

If it's anything like other Audi's it'll depend on what spec you have. For example an s line grill might not fit the se. Etc. This link explains more: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-s6-c6-platform-discussion-58/all-a6-c6-front-grills-same-2973778/

I'd definitely be taking this back to the dealer as vibrations behind the dash are well documented I believe. If you've bought it on finance then you can return it on the grounds of not fit for purpose.

It has to be done at the dealer I believe for initial activation.

If it doesn't light up then it would suggest to me the button isn't working. My advice would be to get an auto electrican to take a look as it's most likely a fault with the button or wiring.

A6 C7 mist spray type washer jet are the same shape and size and direct fit to the A6 c5 facelift. The part number you need is: 5M0 955 986 C - which are heated sprayers

All you need is a Torx 20 bit, a flat blade or trim removal tool and some brute force!! Top tip is to wind the window down to give you easier access when removing the door card First you need to remove the aluminium (or whatever colour) trim by the door handle using the flat blade to reveal the two hidden screws Back of removed trim so you can see the clips. Then undo the screw below the door handle. Next is to the flat blade at the bottom and start levering towards you. Once you can get your hands in simppy work your way around to the top. Don't be afraid to use a bit of brute force Pic of the back of the door card showing the various clips Then pull the door car up and start unclipping the plugs and door handle Top is the speaker cable Unclip the Yellow clip for the door handle cable Finally undo the connector that goes into the door control module at the bottom (bottom of the pic) Fitting is reversal of removal!! Clip the plugs and door handle cable back in Then lift the door card back onto the lip at the top; having the window down as far is goes makes this step a little easier! Put the screws in Tap the clips back into place Job done Hope this helps Rhys on Audi-sport.net

Completed by Daniel Osborne on audi-sport.net. For anyone following in my footsteps wanting to install a genuine retractable towbar here's how to do it. If you only want to perform coding for a removable towbar (using genuine Audi parts to connect to the CAN bus) then you can follow the subset of instructions below. Prerequisits - Audi A4 B9 (Allroad) - these come with tow prep - but for the life of me I've never been able to get Audi to explain what this means. - Audi A4 B9 - need to ensure that you have space in the well below the rear bumper for the towbar to fit and extend. The cut out is approx 30cm wide by 20cm deep - I believe that on A4 models it may require cutting the space in the bottom of the rear bumper. The position of the opening means that neither the opening nor the towbar can be see when it's retracted. - VCDS or VCP - if you are installing a removable towbar you can code it with VCDS alone. If you are installing a restractable towbar you can code it ith VCDS prodiving your tow controller has been parameterised. If not you need VCP so that you can parameterise it. This process takes 30 seconds and is a guided function within VCP so I'm happy to help people who need it. Parts - Genuine retractable towbar - Allroad 8W0800491N - B9 the last letter of the above part number changes depending on the model - you can find out from Audi what should fit your car. - Wiring loom, switch and controller: https://wibutec-shop.com/Kabelsatz-fuer-schwenkbare-Anhaengerkupplung-Audi-A4-8W - Tow Controller (I got mine direct from Audi so only bought the wiring loom from Wibutech) 4M0907383F (again the last digit of this seems to be different in different models.) - Tow bar release switch 8W0951511 (I also got this direct from Audi) - OR removable towbar https://wibutec-shop.com/Westfalia-Anhaengerkupplung-Anhaengezugvorrichtung-fuer-Audi-A4-B9 - Wiring loom and controller - 7 or 13 pin connector https://www.pfjones.co.uk/audi-a4-b...ds-13-pin-westfalia-dedicated-wiring-kit.html Installation The instructions from Wibutech are provided via PDF - they are 10Mb so I can't attach them here but can send them onto people that need them. Coding The Wibutech document contains the necessary coding instructions but here they are: 09 - central electrics (security code 31347) Long coding: hitch_ecu - change to installed 46 - Central module comfort system trailer monitoring – change to active trailer control unit – change to installed 3C - Lane Change Assist ECU for draw bar – change to with ECU for draw bar Or Trailer control unit – change to installed 17 - Dashboard Trailer – change to yes 6C - reverse camera system equipment_ahk/trailer detection – change to installed 74 - chassis control system Trailer – change to installed 10 or 76 - PDC controller Trailer – change to trailer device can be removed manually 13 - controller distance control (security code 20103) Control module for towing sens/Control module for trailer – change to installed A5 - front sensors driver assistance system AAG/Trailer electrics – change to coded 6D - boot lid electronics controller Trailer/controller for trailer – change to installed Parameterising the Control Unit This is where I got stuck - I'd done all the above but the release button for my tow bar just refused to work. I tried changing the coding options in VCDS but it made no difference. If you're lucky your control unit may be parameterised already but it not you will need VCP to do this. I've attached a screen shot below but from the VCP file manager you download the ZDC file for the Audi A4 Tow Controller and then use the File Upload function to upload it to Module 69. The whole process took less than 30 seconds once I knew what to do and the button started working immediately.

On looking online I believe this sensor is for pedestrian safety. But it should still be connected to the airbag modules etc. You could always make up a custom bracket for it.

Completed by Fraysa on Audi-sport.net. What we need is: Genuine LED Cupholder Light Ring (Part Number 8V0947157A): I used a kit from AliExpress that comes with the connector and two wires. This was a genuine part. High Quality Plastic Trim Removal Tool High Quality Glue Soldering Iron 1. We'll start by removing the center console located between the seats. We'll slide a high quality, rather long flat plastic removal tool between the center console top and bottom parts at the marked spot (this spot is parallel to the center MMI button so you can use that as reference): 2. After inserting the tool as deep as you can, lift it up with force (but being gentle not to tear up anything) until you can hear the clips releasing (you'll hear a popping sound). Do this on both sides and you'll be able to free the top part of the console: 3. After popping up the top part, you need to remove the bottom clips. You can do this pulling the console towards the back of the car, as the clips are located under the cigarette lighter area. 4. To fully free the console, you'll need to remove the leather gearknob cover. You can pop it up by pushing it from under and then "playing" with it until you can remove the console through it. Don't forget to remove any connections under the console. (Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of that but they should unclip pretty easily). Please note that if you disconnect the e-brake harness while the car is on you will receive a message on the info cluster so you'll need VCDS or OBDEleven to clear it, so please turn off your car before removing anything! 5. Now that the console is out can we start really working on the less fun part of this install. I placed the console upside down on a cloth so I won't damage the top part. What we need to do is to separate the top part from the bottom part. As you can see in the picture, they're soldered from the factory so there's no pretty way to remove them. I used a soldering iron to melt the tabs so I can barely slide a plastic tool to separate them enough to remove the ring and put the new one. I marked the tabs that you need to melt before separating the console. 6. After you can barely separate the console, you'll be able to see the old ring and pull it out to install the new one. Put the new one in and put the two parts back together. I used a really high quality glue to put the console back apart and let it dry overnight before installing back into my car. 7. The fun part, the connection part! Now all we have to do is connect the lights. From the factory, the lights are connected into the BCM and can be controlled through the MMI. I couldn't bother to do that because my wires were too short and because it's basically the same functionality as using the knob on the headlight switch so I connected them to the cigarette lighter wires. 8. Install the console back in slowly, not forgetting to connect back any wires and there you have it! Before After

So who else is interested in coming along? Looks like a good day. I might stay over the night before as it's 3 hour drive.

The Balfe Motorsport team have recently confirmed that they will be on the British GT grid for this year's Championship, after unveiling their updated Audi R8 GT3 at Lincoln Cathedral. Shaun Balfe will lead the Fulbeck-based team, partnered by experienced GT and single seater racer Adam Carroll, following their successful partnership with the car in last year's GT Open Championship in Europe. “2019 was my last full season of racing anything, and last year we only managed to do four of the GT Open rounds due to the travel restrictions,” Balfe said. We used Michelin tyres in the GT Open Championship and now it’s Pirelli in the British GT’s, but I need to get some momentum back,” he said after a recent test at Donington Park. There are a few changes in the Audi’s specification this year too. The BOP (Balance of Performance) has been changed, but until the first major sports car races around the world, we won’t know if it’s better for us. There is a new aero package with the rear wing and various other modifications, which should help us with more low end torque,” he added. Balfe drove the car at Donington with test driver Warren Hughes and a guesting Matt Cowley, with Carroll not joining them so far this year. Once again the championship gets under way with its traditional Easter weekend at Oulton Park, which in past years has thrown in weather for all four seasons and worse. “We are not here just to make up the numbers. We feel we should score some significant points, but we are not over confident," Balfe said. Our team's knowledge and our driver pairing should get us in the groove quickly, as we need to be on the pace from the start in such a competitive championship." As well as racing the Audi, Balfe also intends racing his historic Lotus Cortina at both Donington and Silverstone and maybe other races if time allows. Qualifying at Oulton Park is on Easter Saturday, with two one-hour races on Monday. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.newarkadvertiser.co.uk/sport/amp/balfes-audi-headed-for-british-gt-championship-9249087/