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Hi. You said that you had rough warm start issues. What were the symptoms for this? I am also experiencing issues when the engine is warm, and I'm starting the car, and the engine dies right away. This is so random, so I'm not sure what to track next. My battery voltage when the engine is off is 12.4V. I also attached a video to see what issue I'm facing. IMG_2480.MOV

Car is 20 months old so not exactly soon after build.

Bless ya not a problem! Easy to get mixed up. I've done it plenty of times.

Yes, TRW for brakes, etc. Lemforder is basically what’s on the car just now, just stamped as Audi. 14 part arm suspension pack is £550 give or take, then you have labour to factor in. For arguments sake let’s say 6-8 hours. Yes car is low mileage, but suspension is rarely straight forward with bolts refusing to budge, especially the pinch bolt on the strut leg. Once all that’s done, the car needs tracking alignment. The irony is you could still do all this work and still have a creak. The suspension shock absorbers will be original, bump stops, and the top mounts. I don’t think you’re anywhere near a front end refresh yet, it’s 40k miles. I’ve done front end refreshes on a A2 and A4 diesel, both around 120k miles. It’s a labour of love and rarely goes to plan. I looked into that Chassis Ear tool, but that’s basically a workshop tool when the car is in the air. Your garage sound like they are doing the right thing, especially if not advocating ‘swap out the entire lot’ approach. Get them to look a specifically at universal joint on steering shaft (grease it), or friction at the steering column's bulkhead seal, (silicone spray).

Hey Audi fans, does any of you have Q4 2025? I wonder what software you have in the care as I've had 0621 which caused me issues with charging to 100% and communicating with the car through my Audi app and now Audi has upgraded my software here in the UK to 4325 and there is another bug that is causing my Android phone to disconnect while driving. Has any of you experienced the same ?

My tuppence worth. Problems with the 25MY B10 are well documented and although it shouldn't happen, and in my opinion should have been addressed before the 26MY was released, to Audi's credit, they have acknowledged the software issues. It's something I would have been able to ( and still am ) reject the car. Outwith the software issues, my car came with a couple of faults - sticking brakes and an annoying rattle from door panel, both of which were rectified at dealership. That can happen to any car regardless who the manufacturer is. A smearing windscreen wiper typically means both the rubber and the glass need cleaned. First thing I've done with every VW group car I've owned is replace the wipers with Bosch aerowipers, but thus far it's never been required with this A5. (They look very similar to the Bosch ones) Software: I don't get as many system failures since the 'open/close' door solution but I'm led to believe that the software fix for MY25 is now being rolled out - EV cars this month, ICE next month. You should be notified via My Audi app when the update is available. It'll require a dealer visit. Regarding the battery. Welcome to modern cars. Our other car is a Toyota hybrid, one of the most reliable cars on sale. That too has already undergone a battery replacement due to the battery management system. The 'fix' if you can call it that, is the car now notifies me when the battery needs attention and the car has to be driven to charge the battery. Modern cars don't seem to be able to cope with sitting doing nothing for 2 weeks as they're constantly monitoring themselves. If you're knowingly going to leave the car sitting for several weeks or more then best solution would be to put it on a trickle charge. That goes for any modern car but especially for those that you're able to communicate via a mobile app. Hope that's of some use.

https://www.gumtree.com/question-answers/what-does-audi-safe-cp-mean-uk-dashboard-warning-l-170459

Thanks, Bob, for the startup tip - Used it the last 3 times using the car - and not had an issue thus far or needed to do a reset. Time will tell Thank You Martin

That's great news Steve, thanks 😊

Hi Steve, Thanks for reply firstly. Im under the impression that the 7 digit code tells the ECU the calibration of the injector Idle is smooth and no real power loss as far as I can tell, but looking for info some say wrong injector code could cause issues as in Idle, power, fueling rate. Like I say it seems to run smooth. Unfortunately unable to put foot down as also have main pressure valve issue in transmission. There's no faults in engine either. I think the reason I am unable to code with the 7 digit code on injector is because ECU knows code is from a different market (Lithuania) and not UK spec for emissions. I suppose no faults, runs good no problems really Thanks for your input, appreciated 👏

Hi. When the outside temperatures are higher, lets say above 15°C, I can hear a "tic" sound coming from somewhere near the driver side A-pillar on my 2020 A4 B9.5. Sound/squeak is more frequent if the car is in the right turn and the road is not perfect. I guess weight transfer has to do something with it. If the road is in good condition then the sound is not present even at 35°C. Usually the "tic" can be intentionally done if the front right tire drops in a (slight) hole or undulation. Have tried to poke & press around the top of the dashboard near the speaker but can not reproduce the sound. Will try to make a video.. Any suggestions?

Looking for a well‑maintained, original example with under 80k miles and a fully documented stamped history — Audi or independent is fine. Colours: black or deep blue. Not put off by oil consumption — planning a preventative rebuild. Priorities: – older owner – original paint – straight body – full service history – no maps or mods Budget reflects condition. If you’re thinking of selling a clean, honest example, please drop me a message.

thanks Spartacus I’ll look into it

Weybridge Vehicle Consultants in Surrey. Bought my current Audi from them. They ship cars all over the UK. They also do servicing on site. Can’t fault them.

You'll not get a reply Mandhir. The vendor has left the forum.

What about Car Window Regulators for parts? For the Audi A4 they are like £28. A5 is nearer £70 to £90 dependent on vehicle model. https://carwindowregs.co.uk/audi/

Onboard video from Spa. GRMN-2026-06-03_19-59-38-exportedVideo.mp4

I think it will be on a sticker in your handbook pack which gives the car spec ?

Thanks so much, Gareth. In the end I rang the garage and he thinks he can do it on Monday morning. So very different from the days when you just undid the terminals and replaced the battery.

Um.

I fitted the audi factory reverse camera complete with all cabling myself (from audi dealer spares dept) and the only tricky part was getting the cabling through the hatch rubber pipe. Obd11 can sort out the coding. Cost me £300. Front sensors look a lot more complex and I did not try that. Good luck with finding a decent installer.

That may mean that the body has twisted so the problem may be greater than just the door closure. I suggest you get the car onto an alignment jig to check it first. It would be a shame to get the door closing properly only to find the car crabs or wanders along the road, or that the tyres are scrubbed to shreds.

I had an Island Green 1.4tdi, barely run in at 210,000 miles, 60mpg, sailed through MoT! All standard so don't fix which isn't broken. A fuel pump leak & lack of spares meant it had to go to WOMAUTOMOTIVE in Stoke-on-Trent who had a selection of donor cars. Our "Dinky Toy" is now back on the road with a new owner. My good lady wishes we still had the A2.

Electric fuel pump - not filter 🫣

Wondering if anyone could help, my all road A6 C5 , when I drive it and rex past 2000rpm the abs light comes on with the esp and suspension level control light, if I turn car off and restart the light go out, if I keep under 2000 rpm no lifts come on, I have logged with vcds, and only fault is brake pressure implausible, when I do live reading it fluctuates between 0 to 33, when I put foot on brake the pressure goes up as it should, I have changed the abs unit and brake light switch. Is there another module or something I missed