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Hi. You said that you had rough warm start issues. What were the symptoms for this? I am also experiencing issues when the engine is warm, and I'm starting the car, and the engine dies right away. This is so random, so I'm not sure what to track next. My battery voltage when the engine is off is 12.4V. I also attached a video to see what issue I'm facing. IMG_2480.MOV

Car is 20 months old so not exactly soon after build.

Usually, electronic systems/units either fail fairly soon after build, or go on forever. Very few will fail ‘in service’, what we used to call a ‘bathtub’ failure curve, light a very wide U, high to start with, drops very low, very quickly & remains low until it’s close the end of it’s designed life when it shoots up again. It’s quite likely you were simply unlucky and, sadly, vehicle technicians are no longer taught how to fault find, they are only taught how to plug in a diagnostic computer. So if that can’t find the fault, neither can they!

Thank you.

No, it’s been fine ever since in that respect but had an ACC radar unit went duff when the headlights were replaced (for LEDs). Still not right. Guy that did the headlights messed something up, mechanical alignment we think. it's just figuring out what exactly & correcting it. 90% of the way there! But not impressed tbh, especially as he Advertises that he can retrofit ACC systems. It went back to him twice too before he admitted he couldn’t align them as he didn’t have the kit! But again, Audi unit £1700 & 3 months back order, bought one from Hong Kong £300 (a lot of Audis electronics are made in China anyway! ). That sort of stuff on military ships used to be my day job, small radar units like cost very little, Hong Kong price is still about 20% profit by my reckoning. But I’ve found that before. Suspension Air pump for a previous 2004 (same as used by RR, Mercedes, Bentley etc, Audi price, £1100 + VAT + fitting, 3 hours! Bought from the US manufacturer, $300 (so about £250) & took 45 mins in a friends garage with a pit to replace! £50!

Bless ya not a problem! Easy to get mixed up. I've done it plenty of times.

Sorry to read your past issue. I assume you never had the issue again after the part was changed?

Yes, TRW for brakes, etc. Lemforder is basically what’s on the car just now, just stamped as Audi. 14 part arm suspension pack is £550 give or take, then you have labour to factor in. For arguments sake let’s say 6-8 hours. Yes car is low mileage, but suspension is rarely straight forward with bolts refusing to budge, especially the pinch bolt on the strut leg. Once all that’s done, the car needs tracking alignment. The irony is you could still do all this work and still have a creak. The suspension shock absorbers will be original, bump stops, and the top mounts. I don’t think you’re anywhere near a front end refresh yet, it’s 40k miles. I’ve done front end refreshes on a A2 and A4 diesel, both around 120k miles. It’s a labour of love and rarely goes to plan. I looked into that Chassis Ear tool, but that’s basically a workshop tool when the car is in the air. Your garage sound like they are doing the right thing, especially if not advocating ‘swap out the entire lot’ approach. Get them to look a specifically at universal joint on steering shaft (grease it), or friction at the steering column's bulkhead seal, (silicone spray).

Hey Audi fans, does any of you have Q4 2025? I wonder what software you have in the care as I've had 0621 which caused me issues with charging to 100% and communicating with the car through my Audi app and now Audi has upgraded my software here in the UK to 4325 and there is another bug that is causing my Android phone to disconnect while driving. Has any of you experienced the same ?

Hi John, I run a 2015 A6 Allroad, about 3 years I had a similar issue, drove into town & on the way back, dash lit up like a Xmas tree. No power steering, faults everywhere. Pulled it over (hard with no power steering! Switched off, waited, started again but still the same. But it started, wrestled it home, literally at about 15 mph. When I got it to the garage (non franchised specialist), it was also the steering rack or module. 6 months backorder from Audi & £2.5k! Luckily, he had a used one from a low mileage RS6 (same spec) he’d bought to do a car up but sold the car when someone made an offer he couldn’t refuse. So that sorted me out. But, nothing they’ve built since has really stirred any desire for another Audi, although the Q6 e-tron came close (until now! ). But for any spares to be unavailable within a week or so is pathetic! I was lucky that time but don’t think I want another Audi now. I’m torn between keeping the Allroad for some years or going to just an EV (I run an Enyaq too to stop me wrecking the Audi [Diesel] with short journeys, no commuting since I retired). But the Enyaq can’t replace the Audi for my long trips away with 17’ kayaks on the roof + all the other kit! It’s just Soo comfortable & easy rpthe drive and there’s limited choice of decent large EV estates on the used market at my budget just now. (Just the ID7).

Sorry Steve , I left you another message. I’d got my messages about canoes (I’ve asked a number of clubs) crossed. This canoe I want isn’t in Nottingham, it’s in Runcorn!🤦🏻‍♂️ I’m really sorry. I’ll let you know when I’m next heading to my sisters in Northampton.

Excellent thank you so much 🙂

My tuppence worth. Problems with the 25MY B10 are well documented and although it shouldn't happen, and in my opinion should have been addressed before the 26MY was released, to Audi's credit, they have acknowledged the software issues. It's something I would have been able to ( and still am ) reject the car. Outwith the software issues, my car came with a couple of faults - sticking brakes and an annoying rattle from door panel, both of which were rectified at dealership. That can happen to any car regardless who the manufacturer is. A smearing windscreen wiper typically means both the rubber and the glass need cleaned. First thing I've done with every VW group car I've owned is replace the wipers with Bosch aerowipers, but thus far it's never been required with this A5. (They look very similar to the Bosch ones) Software: I don't get as many system failures since the 'open/close' door solution but I'm led to believe that the software fix for MY25 is now being rolled out - EV cars this month, ICE next month. You should be notified via My Audi app when the update is available. It'll require a dealer visit. Regarding the battery. Welcome to modern cars. Our other car is a Toyota hybrid, one of the most reliable cars on sale. That too has already undergone a battery replacement due to the battery management system. The 'fix' if you can call it that, is the car now notifies me when the battery needs attention and the car has to be driven to charge the battery. Modern cars don't seem to be able to cope with sitting doing nothing for 2 weeks as they're constantly monitoring themselves. If you're knowingly going to leave the car sitting for several weeks or more then best solution would be to put it on a trickle charge. That goes for any modern car but especially for those that you're able to communicate via a mobile app. Hope that's of some use.

Steve, I’m really sorry, for some odd reason I’d thought this canoe was in Nottingham, it’s not, it’s in Runcorn! Got my messages well crossed! Abject apologies. I’ll let you know when I’m next due to go up to my sisters in Northampton.

https://www.gumtree.com/question-answers/what-does-audi-safe-cp-mean-uk-dashboard-warning-l-170459

Thanks, Bob, for the startup tip - Used it the last 3 times using the car - and not had an issue thus far or needed to do a reset. Time will tell Thank You Martin

Hi Steve, Thanks for reply firstly. Im under the impression that the 7 digit code tells the ECU the calibration of the injector Idle is smooth and no real power loss as far as I can tell, but looking for info some say wrong injector code could cause issues as in Idle, power, fueling rate. Like I say it seems to run smooth. Unfortunately unable to put foot down as also have main pressure valve issue in transmission. There's no faults in engine either. I think the reason I am unable to code with the 7 digit code on injector is because ECU knows code is from a different market (Lithuania) and not UK spec for emissions. I suppose no faults, runs good no problems really Thanks for your input, appreciated 👏

That's great news Steve, thanks 😊

Hi I don't think you have wasted your money, find another C7 and use the codes from that as far as I am aware the coding number is an acceptance code to let the ECU know its had a new unit, the injectors are all the same and once accepted will re learn their values very quickly. Steve.

Hi. When the outside temperatures are higher, lets say above 15°C, I can hear a "tic" sound coming from somewhere near the driver side A-pillar on my 2020 A4 B9.5. Sound/squeak is more frequent if the car is in the right turn and the road is not perfect. I guess weight transfer has to do something with it. If the road is in good condition then the sound is not present even at 35°C. Usually the "tic" can be intentionally done if the front right tire drops in a (slight) hole or undulation. Have tried to poke & press around the top of the dashboard near the speaker but can not reproduce the sound. Will try to make a video.. Any suggestions?

Hi don't worry it only gets critical when you reach the level of a pint of water per pint of oil then the ends rattle and the valve gear rattles as there is not enough lubrication for the lifters, I am quietly confident it is no where near terminal, seen worse where its cooked the head and big end bearings, did a Vauxhall Astra a while ago, same problem but worse and two gallons of flushing oil and three filters its still doing a nightly commute to London no issues. Steve.

In response to the query above, my A5 is a petrol car

Good evening My car info screen is showing safe cp with a few red indications ( pic attached) 2024 a5 sportback sport Car has been left off for 7 hrs fault still present . I take it I need to go to a dealer for a diagnostic and software update Thank for any information supplied

Looking for a well‑maintained, original example with under 80k miles and a fully documented stamped history — Audi or independent is fine. Colours: black or deep blue. Not put off by oil consumption — planning a preventative rebuild. Priorities: – older owner – original paint – straight body – full service history – no maps or mods Budget reflects condition. If you’re thinking of selling a clean, honest example, please drop me a message.

Fingers crossed for reasonable news.