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Many thanks for updating the forum Nicola, and really sorry to hear you are still in difficulties and wish you well in getting a resolution in the very near future.

I’ve had mine for 4 years now (2015 model), I love it! It was the lower power version but having found a local specialist, he explained that the 3 engine versions were identical apart from the software, so one software update later and it became a different car. Uses less fuel than it used to as well. my previous Allroad has taken me through 2 foot of flood water & a foot of snow, the height adjustable air suspension is just so good . (you can alter the base setting I’m told if you want the lower setting to be really low!). OK, issues, I’ve had no issues with the air suspension, on this model, the pump is inside the car, so little to no damp or debris gets in. Theres a reported issue of a water leak from inside the V of the engine. I had mine done when I had the timing chains changed. (Shouldn’t need them unless the cars been abused or not looked after at some point), I just got unlucky and bought one! So if there was any hint of chain rattle, I’d walk away, it’s expensive! check the air suspension works over its full range. I’m sure someone else on here can explain how to check for air leaks. There are known issues (& fixes) for a leaky sunroof on here in other threads. (It happened to me, I fixed it after watching one of the videos). Adblue, if you don’t drive high miles or it’s left empty for any time, the residue in the pipes can crystallise & eventually block up. Adblue systems were fitted to some early cars before it was a legal requirement sometime in late 2015, so can be disabled in the software without any MoT issues. Those built or registered (not sure which it is) after that date, then it has to be working. The S-Tronic gearbox needs routine oil changes, every 40k miles apparently, both hydraulic & lube oil. Some of the gearboxes have a filter inside, so get that changed at the same time. Other than that I can’t think of anything else. Others may have some more. mines recently developed a little rattle from the rear door, it’s been ‘listened’ to and we both think it’s some wiring come loose, (probably held by a sticky pad that’s lost its stick over 10 years). Good luck, Personally think they’re one of the best cars on the road., but then I’m biased!

Thanks Magnet and Frank. Thank you both for your kind words. I really do appreciate the support. It’s been a frustrating and drawn out experience to say the least, and I completely agree with you. The whole situation has been nothing short of unacceptable especially given the cost and the brand expectations I’ll definitely keep you updated on the outcome.

Hi. If you have any issues with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

Hi Nicola May I just mirror what Magnet has just posted and wish you the very best in getting this resolved very soon now. I think it's quite appalling how Audi have allowed this to go on over a very long time. This would be unacceptable on any car ,let alone one that has cost a considerable amount of money. So,good luck and if you can,please let us know what the final outcome is. Frank

Thanks Adrian, I think we have to recognise that their operating costs must be considerable, when you consider the advertising and system they have to pay for. Glad you agree that there no great disadvantages in delaying listing it with them.’ Getting it out there’ can only increase the chances of you finding a buyer.

Thanks Bill for boxing up the attitudes of Audi owners. So trying to summarise, it sounds like you categorise the majority of owners ( your fellow members) as Nobs. Great way of endearing yourself to the forum members as you ask for their advice! I think it’s time for me to dip out of any further responses re. your quest for help. Regards, Gareth.

What, baulking at less than a tenner for a comprehensive report before going to see it? Not sure I agree with someone of your definitions of Audi owners either, but that’s just my personal opinion. Please let us know how you get on. p.s. I guess you are aware that you can request a copy of any computerised service history for the car from your nearest Audi dealer.

You'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up or get an auto electrician to take a look. Power drains can also be caused by faulty alarms.

Insurance is your biggest problem as some insurance companies don't accept them. Might be worth checking before you fit any. Any you do fit will need to be EU marked for safety. German o es might be tuv marked/approved.

THanks for the tip will take a look at that.

OK. Another one of the suggestions made.

Did I suggest Ali Express in my original response?? Glad the forum was able to help you. Liking some posts would be good.

Hello again Bill, Have you carried out the ‘homework’ suggested in my earlier post? If not, the following summarises:- Latest V5 issued in May of this year. May suggest the last owner has only owned it since then! Possible a change of plate at this date, but we don’t know. The car has had an advisory for front suspension issues - not attended to over 2 MOTs. Now has a new advisory free MOT, probably via. the seller! No MOT between Aug 2018 and Oct. 2022 ( possibly influenced by Covid). Only 134 miles covered between Oct.2022 and Feb 2024. So seems to have been sitting around for some time. FSH stated honestly to be ‘Comprehensive service history’. If you haven’t carried out the above ‘homework’ together with sight of the claimed service history, and if all is well there, a VCheck ( there are others) all before you enquire about the car, then you leave yourself in a more vulnerable position than you should be. I could be wrong Bill, but my belief is you have already fallen in love with it - and you know what that does to your sight! Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Shrug. BMW, Mercedes, Ford, Audi, Citroen, Toyota. They are all much of a muchness nowadays in terms of quality since the bean counters set to work destroying their old reputations in pursuit of reduced manufacturing costs.

Re. ‘Anyone??’ Bob, so have you tried the options already given?

Have you searched EBay?

It could be a question of paying or not having them if Audi is the sole supplier. Have you searched EBay?

Hello Marc, Can we take it the main dealer cannot supply? If so, it might be worth trying Aliexpress. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Simon, As above - if you are going to DIY it, then removing the wheel to ensure you are buying the correct discs shouldn’t be a problem for you. Possible alternative:- try LLL website and they should give you the correct part number. ‘…… defaulted to my usual online choices of GSF, Autodoc, ECP…’ Making a mental note to myself - total disrespect for his wallet! GSF sometimes reasonable prices, but often not. Autodoc - paying extra for postage. ECP - started life with x% discount on so called retail prices. Now stopped that, and seldom competitive, in my book. Still….. Regards, Gareth.

Good shout that Kev 😀 Will deffo give that a whirl when I get home later. Thanks for seeing beyond my muppetry. 👍

Can you see the disc through the wheel? If you can, put a straight edge on one side of the disc & measure to the centre of the wheel, double it and that will give you the diameter.

I thought I'd reply to this as apart from being hopefully amusing it might help someone with a similar air suspension problem. Although it's about my 'forever car' I think one Audi air suspension strut and compressor system is much the same as another. A few years ago my 2005 D3 SWB W12 at 70,000miles started to sag at the front when left overnight. The compressor would restore the height and the orange and green lights would go off. But the tiny leak got worse and the compressor sometimes needed two goes at it, presumably because the thermal protection switch would cut in after much noisy pumping. Lots of air was lost from the system when the clever car tried to keep itself level by transferring air from the high pressured accumulator to the lower pressure leaky strut (see Audi SSP 292, P31). If overworked, the compressor or its relay will eventually fail. To locate the leaky strut, I put it in ‘jack mode’ to prevent level equalisation. Next day only the front driver’s side had bottomed out. I removed the under bonnet trim to expose the strut's upper mounting, slid the large dust cap back along the black wire, and did the same with the smaller dust cap underneath it. With jack mode off to restore pressure in the strut, I sprayed soapy water around the strut and poured about 15mls into the top of the mounting, not filling it above where the black wire goes in. No sign of leak from the strut air bag behind the wheel but foam appeared on top of the strut mounting. Diagnosis – the tiny top ‘O’ ring has failed, impossible to replace without major work and the garage rejoicing in a big bill for a new strut. I suspect this is the most common failure rather than the larger bottom ‘O’ ring or the tough air bag itself. I replaced the foam with about 20 mls of clear water. With a magnifying glass I saw a tiny stream of bubbles appearing from below the 18mm locking nut. So I put jack mode back on and waited a couple of days till the bubbles stopped when the pressureless strut had bottomed out. Then I sucked out the water and left it to dry thoroughly. Then I injected a layer of some tough ‘CT1’ sealant. After a day to harden, I added another layer….then another. Then, jack mode off to restore pressure in the strut. Sadly, it didn’t completely cure the leak, but it took around three days to sink rather than just overnight. But a little later the WABCO compressor finally failed, rattling away uselessly. Although access is via the wheel arch for most A8 cars, it is impossible for the W12. The front bumper has to expensively come off. So I bounced it along to my capable indy to do this and the compressor, reconditioned with my repair kit from ‘bagpiping andy’, is now silent. I could live with the leaky strut, remembering to put a bespoke 30cm x 12 x 6 wooden block under the jacking point with ‘jack mode’ on if unused for a few days. It’s important to leave the car in ‘jack mode’ so the compressor doesn’t have to replenish the whole system every time the car is used. Amazingly, a few weeks ago (at 76000 miles) I noticed the car no longer sank onto the block, even after well over a week. Somehow the amazing CT1 sealant (incidentally good for repairing trainer soles!) seems to have almost sealed this top end leak! I hope this story helps someone with a similar problem as I don’t believe I’m the only one with O ring failure which a garage would probably resolve with a new strut and a hefty four figure bill.