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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

From this thread, the vast list of cars impacted is below, so I think it's fair to say it's not a car issue. 2015 A6 2015 A6 Avant Hardware H61 RMC_EU_P16342 - Upgraded from RMC_EU_P14321 2015 Q3 RMC_EU_P14321 2015 S1 RMC_EU_P14321 2016 A1 Hardware H61 RMC_EU_P16342 - Upgraded from RMC_EU_P1432B 2016 A6 2016 A6 Avant 2016 A6 SE 2016 Q3 2017 A1 2017 A6 2017 A6 Avant 2017 Q3 RMC_EU_P16342 2017 S1 2018 A1 RMC_EU_P16342 2018 A6 2018 A6 Avant RMC_EU_P16342 2018 Q3 I'll share this info with Audi UK against the case I raised yesterday - Case: 0003534313 A few others have looked into the Hardware issue, and H61 appears to be a stumbling block. Add to that the owner manuals advise DAB+ is supported, it's not great. I'll report back with what they come back with.

I've now got a case reference from Audi UK. Spoke to a very helpful guy there and he's since emailed to say their tech team will need to take a look, so I'll share screen shots and updates with them when on laptop later. I'll update here as I hear something to report back.

Thanks for letting me join. Traveled 10 hours to get this beauty to take it back up north to Scotland a week ago. Needs a few things fixed before next summer. My first classic car.

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

Guide and pictures credited to Jack Millin. Flat bottom steering wheel off a S3 8P fitted to my 2010 B8 Avant. The electrical plug needed 2 little tabs trimming off and 3 of the wires de pinning and putting in different positions and it all works. I've attached a picture of the wiring guide as well. This guide should also be applicable to the b7 A4 too.

Can’t believe that we’ve all now got the missing DAB radio stations back working I don’t understand what’s gone on since we all started to contact Audi and share and communicate and on this forum starting on the 4th April the involvement from everyone has been incredible and hopefully we’ve now got a long term resolution of the missing channels being restored Thanks to everyone involved

Thanks for Everyone who’s posted on this topic, Same issue apart from my car is used every day. I ended up buying one from an Audi dealer £100. As I had a week of long journeys, poss could have risked it and waiting for the e-bay delivery but I’ll never know. Anyway in my head I’ve still saved £150 fitting it myself instead of thinking of the £80 difference of the same part. I still ordered one from eBay and now I’ve a cheap spare. Thanks again for the advise I can’t imagine there are too many sensors on a modern car you can get to so easily 😊😊👍

Hi Everyone, a quick introduction here. In June I picked up a new A3 TFSI S Line Black Edition in Ascari blue. After a few minor quality issues I am now extremely happy with my purchase. Not going to bore everyone with the minute details but I had to deal with: 1. Loose number plate on the rear (Dealer fitted wrong clips) 2. Wrong puddle lights (no Audi rings) had to go back twice as they fitted exactly the same (incorrect lights) on the first visit 3. MMI software problems (settings not being saved) more on this in a separate post. We think we have solved the problem.

Hi all. Just bought my first A5 from an A6. Here's my pic of 18 plate 2.0 TFSI.

From the admin team we would like to wish a Happy New Year to all our members 🎉✨🎊 Thank you for your ongoing support and contributions over the last year, it's greatly appreciated 😊 May your 2025 be prosperous happy and healthy!!

It’s that time of year again where we think of friends we may not meet during the year, but who we are in contact with by other modern methods that we can use to pass on good wishes. Our family would like to wish everyone on here a very Merry Christmas and a peaceful New Year. I use the word peaceful since regrettably the world does seem to be in some turmoil, but we look forward to the time when harmony prevails. I would also like to thank all those members who take the time to try to help others when they need it. Be kind and considerate. Best wishes to you all, Gareth.

Welcome Lisa and thanks for joining. First things first - can we pass on our condolences for your Dad’s passing. Not an easy time - they only give us one, so always bad news. A couple or so pointers to hopefully help with your query:- Main dealers will not be interested in the car (as good as it may be), since in general, they do not retail vehicles over 5 years old. If they are going to buy it off you, it will be at a price low enough to resell it into their trade contacts at a profit, so really no point in perusing that route. Ways forward:- Enter the details into Parker’s Guide, and you will come up with a ball park valuation for an average mileage car sold privately. If you want a ‘mileage adjusted’ quote, then I believe you have to pay. Worth doing that?? Search EBay and Autotrader for similar year examples, building up a picture of a number of valuations, some of which might be for lower mileage examples. It is worth noting that (unless you are very lucky) you are unlikely to sell the car at prices that dealers are asking, since yours will not be sold with any warranty. Apologies for being pessimistic, but you are trying to sell very much at the low demand end of the year., and the car will effectively be a year older by the end of the month. Another disposal route could be via. the Motorway advertising route, or similar. I don’t have any experience of this, but you could investigate. On a brighter note, such low mileage cars normally find homes among family and friends, and as such tend not to spread out to the wider market. Anyway Lisa, please come back to us if you think we can help further, or if you wish to advertise it on here. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hi, newbie member here… I can comment slightly, I don’t have the d5 version that your looking at but I do have the Audi a8 lwb 3.0v6 diesel 2017 model just before the facelift… I have owned the car since 01/10/2021. I purchased the car with 19,306 miles and I am currently sitting at 246,000 ish. i have to say, I’ve had a few lwb cars, this for me is the best car to date , I’ve owned Mercedes s class, bmw 7 series and my last car was a Jaguar xjl… for me, the Audi a8 has been the best, by far may I add… I love the driving position, the seats, the super smooth gearbox, the suspension, customers absolutely love the car, it’s been absolutely perfect. i have the car serviced every 6 weeks, and other than tyres and brakes along with the servicing it’s been faultless. after 5,600 hours of driving my long term memory states 43.1 mpg which is pretty good for such a big car. im hoping to get the car to around 350,000 before moving over to the d5…. I’ve heard of some issues relating to air suspension after a certain mileage and also adblue issues with the pipe, however, I’ve encountered none of these, maybe I got lucky. the jag was certainly a winner In the looks department, but basic inside and a bit ghosty with electric issues. the bmw was a nice but feel rear seat passengers suffered a harsh ride, maybe because my was an m tech version possibly. the Mercedes was nice as well, however main dealer pricing and customer service meant I wouldn’t buy another one.. for me, Audi will remain top spot.. it ticks all boxes, I quite like the fact that it floats under the radar in my profession… if the lottery numbers come up then I’ll head to rolls Royce, until then, the A8L is just perfect. Hope that helps.

IV just bought my first ever Audi and classic. My Dad had one over 20 years ago and I thought I would follow in his footsteps. Drove 10 hours up north to sunny Scotland and gave me no problems on the way. Hope to get it running more smoothly for next summer. Does anyone have any advice on owning, driving and maintaining one? I'm a car guy but not overly confident when it comes to tinkering with cars mechanically. It's a Audi 80 16v 2.0. Thanks Chris

I am being "testy" as you call it because the forum is being plagued by people like yourself who pose questions and never bother to look at the replies that others have spent time and effort on. If your problem was important enough to spend time composing your questions, surely it is worth a little more time to read and aknowledge their replies? Is that really too much to expect? If nothing else, the matter is one of good manners.

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Confirmed water pump, being replaced under warranty

Update for whoever finds this thread in future. Apparently my expansion tank is a different revision and has no physical silica bag inside. So no burst silica bag. Also checked with VCDS for errors but aircon unit had no faults. I ordered an original Valeo heater matrix from Germany for less than 100€, disassembled the entire central tunnel and replaced it. No leaks around the AC site, but the old heater matrix was almost 100% blocked. After cleaning it I tried to blow inside but only very little air was coming out. Compared to the new it was day and night. Reassembled everything, refilled the lost coolant, reset all the errors. Aircon works again, even hotter than before. After another small trip of 1000 km coolant level seems to be stable. Will keep an eye on it in the next weeks.

Just to remind you all. All of us have the exact same MMI That being RMC HW H61. That MMI was only installed in A1, A6 and Q3 between 2015 and 2018. It angers me when I read that Audi are telling us that the vehicle is not the issue and it is Bauer media. Let's not forget that Global also switched, so it isn't just Bauer media. DAB+ is DAB+. The issue isn't Bauer or global using the wrong DAB+. The issue is 100% Audi. They have either installed and programmed the chipset incorrectly or they have missed something when it came to adding the mpeg4 audio codec to allow is to listen to the DAB+ frequency. Audi also have it documented that out RMC MMI is DAB+. There are earlier models of our vehicles that have RMC MMI installed but that HW version is earlier than HW61. HW61 should be recalled and corrected to match how it was marketed, that it is DAB+

If you were to ask Audi directly. Is my RMC MMI radio DAB+. The answer would be yes. The issue appears to be head units RMC HW H61. My brother has an A6 Avant. Same car as mine, but his is 2013. He has no issues with his radio. His unit is RMC HW H50 something. The Audi representative that has suggested that we buy dab+ compatible radio needs sacking. Ask this person to suggest a stereo because the ones we all currently have are supposed to be DAB+. Have a look in your booklet in the black folder. It specifically states DAB+. We are being fobbed off.

my other half has just tagged the sun newspaper into it on twitter !!

Hi Sandra welcome to the chat please don’t pay for any diagnostic as it appears to be a transmission issue with national DAB stations moving over to DAB+ which 2014 - 2018 Audis don’t appear to be able to connect to The change happened at the end of March

Whether it is worthwhile is a judgement only you can make, depending on how attached you are to the car. In your place I would get the cost of repair and compare it to how much you are willing to pay for a different car.

When I got my Q5, I was painfully aware of just how scratched and dented the centre trim was. Decided it was finally time to rip out the whole centre console so I could remove the offending trim. Replacing with a standard trim would just end up the same way, the carbon replacements are either too expensive or poor fitting so instead I used some alloy wheel repair filler to fill in all the dents and scratches. After a few hours to cure I got on with the boring job of sanding it down. Got some carbon fibre wrap and set to work. Took me forever to get to this stage but as it was my first attempt at wrapping I expected as much. Carefully put everything back together and here is the end result. Think it's turned out rather nicely 😎

Further to my above post 3 weeks ago, my A6 has reluctantly now been traded in with Audi and I have a replacement car. A shame because I really like the A6 (my 3rd) but could not tolerate the inherent unreliability and likely forthcoming big bills. I have spent time googling Audi + Vitesco, then making use of google translate and reading the various posts on the German websites and forums. (For those not aware, Vitesco appears to be the manufacturer of 48V equipment for these models including the notorious BSG or RSG in German - RiemenStarterGenerator). Clearly liability and fault for all these problems is a major discussion between the two companies which seems far from resolution according to the reports and will be hugely expensive however the legal process pans out. One piece of perhaps relevant information from the motor-talk.de forums suggests that the early "potentially faulty" BSGs had a serial number commencing in 4N0, whereas the SN of the more recent "good" BSGs commence with 4N1. So to possibly answer my own question, I reckon the more recent models with the 48V system may well have the issue fully sorted, which is a glimmer of good news for those such as me who like the concept of the system, despite the poor execution of it. Perhaps surprisingly, I remain a fan of Audi cars as a brand, though the company's poor handling and lack of ownership of the whole BSG issue is simply dreadful. Nonetheless, to anyone buying a new or used Audi with the 48V MHEV system, a long extended warranty would be a very good investment I reckon.

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

My W12 swapped B7 A4 Avant. Running D3 A8 W12 and B7 A4 TDI 6spd 0A3

I doubt we can expect a peaceful future Gareth, but I join you in wishing for it. Happy Christmas dear readers.

Credited to Frank Montesinos: "Figured I'd post this in case it helps someone else. If you've had what sounds like a buzzy/blown center speaker on the dash, it might just be the grille vibrating. It was really bad with loud phone calls. I just pulled the grill/vent trim piece and added small, thin felt pads. I first just did it mostly around the speaker, but still had some minor buzzing, so I went back and added more. For reference, this is a 2013 A6 3.0T with the Bose system."

Hi, I had very little knowledge or experience with cars, so the steps I mentioned earlier were as far as I could manage on my own. Fortunately, I found a mechanic who was able to assist. I’m not entirely sure how he managed to slide the core out, but he did, and he replaced it with the part I had sourced. That resolved the issue completely. I believe I paid around £100–£200 for the repair, which was significantly cheaper than the quotes I had received from Audi and other garages. From what I saw, a flush might have worked as well, as the old core was clogged with a lot of debris. If you’re facing high repair quotes, it might be worth trying that first. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful, good luck with your repair.

they are an absolute pain in the bum to change. but going in thru the wheel well is the quickest and "easiest" Make sure you have a axel stands and not working under there with the car held up by the jack. I use wheel blocks and axel stands every time now after a near miss some years ago that seen a shogun fall off a jack and narrowly miss taking a friends arm off at the shoulder.

My speculation from the phrase "running out of road" is that the braking is harsh enough to trigger the ABS system. The rapid sequence of brake & release pulses can cause vibration.

Hi the most common cause of this is people grease the backs of the pads most brake pads come with an anti squeal pad on the back of the pad its like a film of rubber which when the pads are first used bonds the pad to the surface of the calliper stopping the pad from moving, therefore if you have greased that surface they move when the pads are released and squeal. Steve.

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Well iv just put the back boxes on not properly or bolted up just too get the sound and I'm well happy 20240318_111145.mp4

HI Dary, I’ve just changed the from and rear pads on my RS4 B9.5. The videos for the S4 you have found online can be referenced for your model mate. I used the same and can confirm the S4 replacement procedure is exactly the same. I went for the Brembo pads rather than OEM, feel pretty good so far. if you are ordering replacement pads, make sure you get the accessories kit, it contains new clips etc. The old clips on my pads came out in pieces and they will need replaced. I also purchased new pad wear sensors. One sensor for each axle. Im sure you have this in hand but just a reminder you will need an OBD2 to retract the rear handbrake before replacing the rear disc and pads. Edit, sorry, just realised you posted this 8 months ago! Im new to the forum but lesson learned, check the dates before replying. 🙂

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Hi all. Heres a wee pic of mine 👍