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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

From this thread, the vast list of cars impacted is below, so I think it's fair to say it's not a car issue. 2015 A6 2015 A6 Avant Hardware H61 RMC_EU_P16342 - Upgraded from RMC_EU_P14321 2015 Q3 RMC_EU_P14321 2015 S1 RMC_EU_P14321 2016 A1 Hardware H61 RMC_EU_P16342 - Upgraded from RMC_EU_P1432B 2016 A6 2016 A6 Avant 2016 A6 SE 2016 Q3 2017 A1 2017 A6 2017 A6 Avant 2017 Q3 RMC_EU_P16342 2017 S1 2018 A1 RMC_EU_P16342 2018 A6 2018 A6 Avant RMC_EU_P16342 2018 Q3 I'll share this info with Audi UK against the case I raised yesterday - Case: 0003534313 A few others have looked into the Hardware issue, and H61 appears to be a stumbling block. Add to that the owner manuals advise DAB+ is supported, it's not great. I'll report back with what they come back with.

I've now got a case reference from Audi UK. Spoke to a very helpful guy there and he's since emailed to say their tech team will need to take a look, so I'll share screen shots and updates with them when on laptop later. I'll update here as I hear something to report back.

Does anybody else get frustrated when people post a question, get suggestions and then never come back with a follow up to say how or if the problem was solved? Surely it's only good manners and it helps people with similar problems.

Hi, newbie member here… I can comment slightly, I don’t have the d5 version that your looking at but I do have the Audi a8 lwb 3.0v6 diesel 2017 model just before the facelift… I have owned the car since 01/10/2021. I purchased the car with 19,306 miles and I am currently sitting at 246,000 ish. i have to say, I’ve had a few lwb cars, this for me is the best car to date , I’ve owned Mercedes s class, bmw 7 series and my last car was a Jaguar xjl… for me, the Audi a8 has been the best, by far may I add… I love the driving position, the seats, the super smooth gearbox, the suspension, customers absolutely love the car, it’s been absolutely perfect. i have the car serviced every 6 weeks, and other than tyres and brakes along with the servicing it’s been faultless. after 5,600 hours of driving my long term memory states 43.1 mpg which is pretty good for such a big car. im hoping to get the car to around 350,000 before moving over to the d5…. I’ve heard of some issues relating to air suspension after a certain mileage and also adblue issues with the pipe, however, I’ve encountered none of these, maybe I got lucky. the jag was certainly a winner In the looks department, but basic inside and a bit ghosty with electric issues. the bmw was a nice but feel rear seat passengers suffered a harsh ride, maybe because my was an m tech version possibly. the Mercedes was nice as well, however main dealer pricing and customer service meant I wouldn’t buy another one.. for me, Audi will remain top spot.. it ticks all boxes, I quite like the fact that it floats under the radar in my profession… if the lottery numbers come up then I’ll head to rolls Royce, until then, the A8L is just perfect. Hope that helps.

Thanks for letting me join. Traveled 10 hours to get this beauty to take it back up north to Scotland a week ago. Needs a few things fixed before next summer. My first classic car.

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

I know the op might not be here anymore, but for others here: I recently had the chance to drive two identical specked 2024 A3’s, both built within a month of each other with identical speck, 1.5tfsi DSG, with very similar mileage. The only difference was one was running a set of new Bridgestone Potenza Sport, the other was on a new set of new Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6. Both were on 235/35R19 V91 After driving for over a month on different road conditions both cars, the difference in tires was quite noticeably different. The Goodyear were noticeably quieter and felt more comfortable on our rough UK pot holed roads, the Bridgestones by comparison felt harsher and noticeably noisier, handling wise, not that they were pushed to their extreme, the Bridgestone felt better cornering in the dry, but I personally preferred the Goodyear in the wet on the bends. I was not expecting to notice much difference between the two, but a difference of tire brand made the cars feel completely different to drive on a daily basis, the Goodyear were far better for me.

I believe those symptoms are severe enough to justify rejecting the car and asking for a refund.

Believing the rings are worn is not the same as having evidence of it. In your position I would carry out a compression test before making any decisions.

I don't presume to know what you're looking for Alex, but buying an S5 will likely have a decent specification on even a base model, minus things such as sound package or panoramic sunroof. Incidentally, LED matrix isn't gimmicky lighting. Far from it, this will have been a very expensive extra from new, over and above standard LED lights with features such as full beam assist, cornering lighting, etc. This type of specification helps sell it down the line unless you're planning for this car to be a long term keeper. You asked if S5s are typical for lack of servicing. No, not necessarily, but its a 2017 plate, so a 9 year old performance car, so it pays to do your research. The original owner may have sold it, and it could have traded hands a few times or been run ragged on a track or indeed modified. Without some sort of service log, then you've absolutely no idea what the history is. In terms of history, especially on an older vehicle such as this, then if its been maintained meticulously, even by the main dealer on a database, they can give you a print out. If the previous owner(s) were old school, then a physical service record is better. Doesn't need to be garage stamps, but receipts in a folder from a VAT registered garage, or simply parts purchased, and service mileage, in some sort of chronological order. That speaks volumes. I've had quattros for years, so I understand tyre wear. Normally you replace tyres in pairs on the same axle. There's no dark science to it. A car failing on tyres tells you the owner isn't aware of condition, wear pattern or tread depth.

Thanks again Sid I also found similar but steered away from it as camera dint appear to be the same. I've sorted it now with the switch off eBay. Which can also be purchased from RS. It's an omron switch part no D2HW A201D Photos attached show the tabs soldered on to allow the original wiring harness plug to connect. Bit fiddly but it works. Link to switch on RS https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=Omron+D2HW+A201D

You may remember I sold my Audi E Tron GT at the end of August due to insurance cost (£3K) and also the RFT (£450). Incidentally it hasn't sold yet. I thought I would bid you all farewell and thank you for the info, and tips over the years I had Audis. I have just purchased a new Jeacoo J7 SHS Hybrid. It's not bad. Loads of goodies, 56 miles on electric, 700 miles total tank range, albeit I have only done 125 miles so far. It's good value, pretty good finish, but it is definitely not an Audi. Thanks for every thing. Tony

Magnet thanks for the suggestions. my sensible car has always been a Toyota RAV4 and the Audi my “Fun” car. The Toyota garage is a small independent and as I’ve been going there for 30 years and bought new from them they have agreed to look at my car to see if they can identify where the water is coming from. I will update this thread with any solution I find in case it is of use to anybody.

Had my 21 plate Q7 down tools with the same error as many of you have experienced. Dealing with the garage was as a bit of a pain, nothing was written down and no one wanted to place any blame on the part. However, I picked the car back up today with a new alternator and battery at zero cost to me from Stratford Audi. Now to follow up with Audi UK for recovery costs. Thanks for all the advice on this thread, helped a lot in saving me a significant bill.

Just a quick update on my case — I picked up the car on Tuesday. All the repairs, including diagnostics, were fully covered under the 7-year extended warranty. The newly installed BSG also comes with an additional 3-year warranty. To my surprise, when I collected the car, I found a generous gift box from Audi in the boot. It included jackets, a hat, a bottle of Moët champagne, air fresheners, a backpack, a cup, a key ring, a cleaning kit, and a few other thoughtful extras. Overall, Audi really stepped up and handled the issue to the standard I expected. I've learned my lesson and decided to take out the extended warranty plan with Audi — better safe than sorry! All in all, I’m pleased with how everything was resolved and back on the road with renewed confidence.

Issue resolved. User error. Happy to embarrass myself if it helps others....this safety label was still attached to the new battery and wouldn't complete the circuit. Thanks everyone. 🫣

Had the same issue. Just give the polystyrene holder a firm pull and it will come out.

It seems my beloved Audi will live to drive another day. All that is wrong with it is the fuel injector sensor. Nothing wrong with fuel injector or the ECU, just the sensor.

Can’t believe that we’ve all now got the missing DAB radio stations back working I don’t understand what’s gone on since we all started to contact Audi and share and communicate and on this forum starting on the 4th April the involvement from everyone has been incredible and hopefully we’ve now got a long term resolution of the missing channels being restored Thanks to everyone involved

Thanks for Everyone who’s posted on this topic, Same issue apart from my car is used every day. I ended up buying one from an Audi dealer £100. As I had a week of long journeys, poss could have risked it and waiting for the e-bay delivery but I’ll never know. Anyway in my head I’ve still saved £150 fitting it myself instead of thinking of the £80 difference of the same part. I still ordered one from eBay and now I’ve a cheap spare. Thanks again for the advise I can’t imagine there are too many sensors on a modern car you can get to so easily 😊😊👍

Quick update - Martin at Bolton Car Interiors did a fantastic job, communicated really well and was reasonably priced for what was a unique job which no other garage could do. So indirectly he saved me 000's of pounds. Great place if you ever need any work doing.

Hi Everyone, a quick introduction here. In June I picked up a new A3 TFSI S Line Black Edition in Ascari blue. After a few minor quality issues I am now extremely happy with my purchase. Not going to bore everyone with the minute details but I had to deal with: 1. Loose number plate on the rear (Dealer fitted wrong clips) 2. Wrong puddle lights (no Audi rings) had to go back twice as they fitted exactly the same (incorrect lights) on the first visit 3. MMI software problems (settings not being saved) more on this in a separate post. We think we have solved the problem.

Hi all. Just bought my first A5 from an A6. Here's my pic of 18 plate 2.0 TFSI.

From the admin team we would like to wish a Happy New Year to all our members 🎉✨🎊 Thank you for your ongoing support and contributions over the last year, it's greatly appreciated 😊 May your 2025 be prosperous happy and healthy!!

It’s that time of year again where we think of friends we may not meet during the year, but who we are in contact with by other modern methods that we can use to pass on good wishes. Our family would like to wish everyone on here a very Merry Christmas and a peaceful New Year. I use the word peaceful since regrettably the world does seem to be in some turmoil, but we look forward to the time when harmony prevails. I would also like to thank all those members who take the time to try to help others when they need it. Be kind and considerate. Best wishes to you all, Gareth.

Welcome Lisa and thanks for joining. First things first - can we pass on our condolences for your Dad’s passing. Not an easy time - they only give us one, so always bad news. A couple or so pointers to hopefully help with your query:- Main dealers will not be interested in the car (as good as it may be), since in general, they do not retail vehicles over 5 years old. If they are going to buy it off you, it will be at a price low enough to resell it into their trade contacts at a profit, so really no point in perusing that route. Ways forward:- Enter the details into Parker’s Guide, and you will come up with a ball park valuation for an average mileage car sold privately. If you want a ‘mileage adjusted’ quote, then I believe you have to pay. Worth doing that?? Search EBay and Autotrader for similar year examples, building up a picture of a number of valuations, some of which might be for lower mileage examples. It is worth noting that (unless you are very lucky) you are unlikely to sell the car at prices that dealers are asking, since yours will not be sold with any warranty. Apologies for being pessimistic, but you are trying to sell very much at the low demand end of the year., and the car will effectively be a year older by the end of the month. Another disposal route could be via. the Motorway advertising route, or similar. I don’t have any experience of this, but you could investigate. On a brighter note, such low mileage cars normally find homes among family and friends, and as such tend not to spread out to the wider market. Anyway Lisa, please come back to us if you think we can help further, or if you wish to advertise it on here. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

IV just bought my first ever Audi and classic. My Dad had one over 20 years ago and I thought I would follow in his footsteps. Drove 10 hours up north to sunny Scotland and gave me no problems on the way. Hope to get it running more smoothly for next summer. Does anyone have any advice on owning, driving and maintaining one? I'm a car guy but not overly confident when it comes to tinkering with cars mechanically. It's a Audi 80 16v 2.0. Thanks Chris

I am being "testy" as you call it because the forum is being plagued by people like yourself who pose questions and never bother to look at the replies that others have spent time and effort on. If your problem was important enough to spend time composing your questions, surely it is worth a little more time to read and aknowledge their replies? Is that really too much to expect? If nothing else, the matter is one of good manners.

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Guide and pictures credited to Jack Millin. Flat bottom steering wheel off a S3 8P fitted to my 2010 B8 Avant. The electrical plug needed 2 little tabs trimming off and 3 of the wires de pinning and putting in different positions and it all works. I've attached a picture of the wiring guide as well. This guide should also be applicable to the b7 A4 too.

Hi all. Heres a wee pic of mine 👍

I hope someone finds this of interest. If boring, please ignore. So, after precisely 2 weeks of ownership from new and 500 miles, the following are my thoughts about my S5 Avant and in particular to how it compares to my previous car , a Q8. Firstly and most obviously is the tech in this car compared to the Q8 which was 7 years into it's development and used a vastly inferior architecture to the latest Audi MMI. I am 78 years of age and to say I am astounded about how good this is and what it can do, is an understatement. Particuarly the " Hey Audi " feature which is outstanding. I never used the voice recognition in the Q8 as it was so poor but with this, it understands everything you say and you can control almost everything with it. I am smitten !!! Even though I havent had a blast yet, the S5 is clearly a much more powerful and faster car. The Q8 was not a slow car with 335 bhp and a 0 to 60 time of about 6 seconds but it had alot of weight to haul around. Nect build quality ? I detest creaks and rattles in cars. One of the reasons I was a proud owner of 2 VW Phaetons as the build quality on those cars was unsurpassed in my opinion . I was a little concerned reading some reviews that seem to say that the build quality on newer model Audis had taken a dive. At the moment, thats not true and the car seems solid and well screwed together Next, how comfortable would the S5 be compared to the Q8. This was my worse fear realising I was coming out of a car with air suspension and designed and built with comfort in mind and into one where handling and road holding was paramount. On that, the jury is still out and I know I was taking a bit of a punt on this. On roads I know and in comfort mode the suspension on the S5 certainly crashes and bangs a bit more. But nothing that really bothers me and I get the feeling that it is more to do with the 35 section tyres compared to the 40's on the Q8 rather than the adaptive dampers versus the air suspension. And finally....perception ? Isnt it strange that the Q8 is still considerd the flagship model of the Audi SUV range but in 6 years of owning two they rarely received a glance or a comment although to my mind, they were pretty handsome cars. Whereas in 14 days of ownership I have had numerous people come up when I have parked up, to ask and admire the car. I think the age range of the admirers is substantially lower that anyone who came up to look at the Q8 which tells you something maybe. I hope this is of interest. If not just delete. Frank

I believe visual inspection is the best test. While a completely broken wire can be found with a continuity test, the damage can be as slight as cracked insulation that only shorts out as the wire chafes against metal during door opening.

John. Search other sections of these forums for mild hybrid to see if symptoms described there match yours.

Hello Steve, I think Steve Y’s idea of removing the sump first, is great. You can then remove bearing caps (keeping them in order is a must). Where bolts/ nuts can’t be refitted then put them in individual clearly marked envelopes. Also, a thanks to Kev for suggesting numerous photo sessions of what goes where. I would also suggest picking up some various colour touch ups and placing dabs on each side of any connections you disconnect. You’ll get there. Good luck, Gareth.

Does the car have door open warning lights? Audi got tight with what they added and what should have been standard after 2012 or so. Front headlight washers and rear door open and puddle lights just being some of the kit they quietly dropped or if you wanted them you needed to buy a bundled package. Try https://rocketwires.co.uk/online-shop/ols/products/door-lighting for looms. I've used them and it's straight forward. That allows you to piggy-back into existing wiring. You'll need Torx screwdriver, anti-marr trim tools.

I think that'd be your best bet. Putting a cambelt on it won't help in my opinion and could do further damage. They removed the 5 year rule a few years ago which I think is ridiculous. Also £1k for a cambelt is very expensive too.

Well, this morning I got the car warmed up and the ATF temperature was reading 40deg after a painful 35minutes of idling while periodically slowly going through the gears. While the engine was still running I unscrewed the fill plug and was able to get another 200-300ml of ATF fluid before it came dripping back out. So with roughly 5.8ltrs of ATF back in it I took her for a spin and she was faultless, gears changed quickly and smoothly regardless of what drive mode I was in, even manual shifts. So I'm going to take that as job done. Thankfully the rear diff only took 5min to change the oil.

99% certain you have the 7-speed s-tronic gearbox, the 8-speed tiptronic was used in the SQ5 QUR is your gearbox code CTBA is your engine code LZ7G is your paint code N5W FZ is your interior type and colour codes All the other codes relate to your factory build spec and can be decoded at sites like - https://www.oemvwshop.com/pr-code-decoder/

I thought I'd reply to this as apart from being hopefully amusing it might help someone with a similar air suspension problem. Although it's about my 'forever car' I think one Audi air suspension strut and compressor system is much the same as another. A few years ago my 2005 D3 SWB W12 at 70,000miles started to sag at the front when left overnight. The compressor would restore the height and the orange and green lights would go off. But the tiny leak got worse and the compressor sometimes needed two goes at it, presumably because the thermal protection switch would cut in after much noisy pumping. Lots of air was lost from the system when the clever car tried to keep itself level by transferring air from the high pressured accumulator to the lower pressure leaky strut (see Audi SSP 292, P31). If overworked, the compressor or its relay will eventually fail. To locate the leaky strut, I put it in ‘jack mode’ to prevent level equalisation. Next day only the front driver’s side had bottomed out. I removed the under bonnet trim to expose the strut's upper mounting, slid the large dust cap back along the black wire, and did the same with the smaller dust cap underneath it. With jack mode off to restore pressure in the strut, I sprayed soapy water around the strut and poured about 15mls into the top of the mounting, not filling it above where the black wire goes in. No sign of leak from the strut air bag behind the wheel but foam appeared on top of the strut mounting. Diagnosis – the tiny top ‘O’ ring has failed, impossible to replace without major work and the garage rejoicing in a big bill for a new strut. I suspect this is the most common failure rather than the larger bottom ‘O’ ring or the tough air bag itself. I replaced the foam with about 20 mls of clear water. With a magnifying glass I saw a tiny stream of bubbles appearing from below the 18mm locking nut. So I put jack mode back on and waited a couple of days till the bubbles stopped when the pressureless strut had bottomed out. Then I sucked out the water and left it to dry thoroughly. Then I injected a layer of some tough ‘CT1’ sealant. After a day to harden, I added another layer….then another. Then, jack mode off to restore pressure in the strut. Sadly, it didn’t completely cure the leak, but it took around three days to sink rather than just overnight. But a little later the WABCO compressor finally failed, rattling away uselessly. Although access is via the wheel arch for most A8 cars, it is impossible for the W12. The front bumper has to expensively come off. So I bounced it along to my capable indy to do this and the compressor, reconditioned with my repair kit from ‘bagpiping andy’, is now silent. I could live with the leaky strut, remembering to put a bespoke 30cm x 12 x 6 wooden block under the jacking point with ‘jack mode’ on if unused for a few days. It’s important to leave the car in ‘jack mode’ so the compressor doesn’t have to replenish the whole system every time the car is used. Amazingly, a few weeks ago (at 76000 miles) I noticed the car no longer sank onto the block, even after well over a week. Somehow the amazing CT1 sealant (incidentally good for repairing trainer soles!) seems to have almost sealed this top end leak! I hope this story helps someone with a similar problem as I don’t believe I’m the only one with O ring failure which a garage would probably resolve with a new strut and a hefty four figure bill.

When I got my Q5, I was painfully aware of just how scratched and dented the centre trim was. Decided it was finally time to rip out the whole centre console so I could remove the offending trim. Replacing with a standard trim would just end up the same way, the carbon replacements are either too expensive or poor fitting so instead I used some alloy wheel repair filler to fill in all the dents and scratches. After a few hours to cure I got on with the boring job of sanding it down. Got some carbon fibre wrap and set to work. Took me forever to get to this stage but as it was my first attempt at wrapping I expected as much. Carefully put everything back together and here is the end result. Think it's turned out rather nicely 😎

Local mechanic will be a lot cheaper. The alternative option is an Audi independent specialist

Instrument cluster problems happen from time to time on A3s of that era. A new cluster from Audi will cost you silly money, whereas the old cluster can be repaired by companies such as ECU Testing for less than £300. You will have to remove, post, and refit the cluster if you choose to have it repaired. Scan through this forum's history for examples of people in a similar position who have had their clusters repaired successfully.

Not been doing too much too her fixed the exhaust on properly and been looking for the red interior, last night had a good touch got a full set normally 600.00 to 1200.00, I won this for 136.00 yea totally stole it

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early