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We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Anyone interested in going to this show? Has been great in the past. This year's Jap Vs German with Rogue Static's own twist is back again at our newest venue Aldwinians rugby club in Manchester. bringing the people of Manchester some stunning motors and a great atmosphere all aimed at for the love of cars, don't have a Jap or German motor? not an issue we welcome everyone. We are asking for £5 per car on entry, which will all be donated to our fantastic charity "SSAFA the armed forces charity" who we have proudly supported for years now. there will be trades, food and facilities as per usual with our events, please be aware that the pitch is out of bounds but we are now able to place light vehicles on the apron near the pitch which now gives us more vehicular room than last time. our marshalls and event staff will all have two way radios in case of emergency and all relevant R.A.M.S have been supplied to the venue. So with that all taken care of all you have to do is click going, pop it on your calendar and show up 😁 Traders confirmed: MAS Decals Swan Lady 3D Scratch entertainment (aka DJ Liam) Virtual Rides (VR rollercoaster) Squid Ink Detailing The Coffee Guy And our special guest Dan Red Media we have three Handcrafted awards to give out too: Best Japanese car Best German Car Best in Show This is a static event and we keep to our policy of park up keys out whilst attending our events anyone caught being a !Removed! will be asked to leave and escorted from the venue, better it's us than the venues manager 😉 no tickets just pay in entry our staff will be on hand with donations buckets when you arrive and throughout the day every little can help those in need greatly and we thank you all in advance.

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.

Hello Asad, Looks to be deposited by some ‘outside influence’. Have you looked at the under- bonnet insulation? Kind regards, Gareth.

Not been on here or the car for a while been very busy with work and personal things but got back on it today and it's all together so hopefully I can turn her over tomorrow

All went smoothly. No issues with coding. I ended up changing the complete calliper and actuator assembly - the new one feels super smooth in comparison to the original. Thanks for your assistance.

I think I'll still be doing mine every 5 years or as close to it as I financially can, purely for my own peace of mind. On my Audi app now it even shows up, saying it's to be changed every 225k with no time interval below it.

John. You have not mentioned how much you paid for the car, but I doubt it was a lot considering its age and mileage, in which case I fear it will cost you more in money and time to get recompense than the car is worth. I suggest you swallow the bitter pill and accept that you have been conned, then move on to either repairing or replacing the car.

Thanks mate. Yeah it was actually 3 of them, a bloke, a kid and an elderly lady. The buyer distracted me to the rear of the car and the old woman did the sabotage with the kid looking out. Romanians. reported to the Met Police who booked a visit to my home, then never bothered to show up or call me back. Says it all.

Absolutely valid concern. My concern is that no one seems to be talking about Audi about whether this issue is actually getting fixed or just repaired. What I’m saying they’re just replacing the broken alternator but are they actually replacing it with something that doesn’t happen again in the future because so far I think they are just putting the a new same part in

No problem. Just a little update, post flush. We’re away this weekend, so have put 150mi solid drive since the flush. The car is now much hotter. Still nowhere near where my wife’s GLA gets, but I wasn’t cold on the drive. @Redwolf do you have Carista by chance? I do, and found a HVAC calibration which checked and set all the flaps on the vents. That would (I think) throw an error is any we’re stuck. Don’t know if that helps or not.

Hi there are two thermostats one on the water pump which is prone to sticking open, if its a cn engine and has the solid inlet manifold the other thermostat is under that that one controls the cabin heat and you can change it without removing the manifold just buy a new core unit and seal, I did mine on my A6 similar engine it fiddly but doable, also posted pics of parts and how to in the A6 C7 part of the forum. Steve.

All done now really happy but now thinking of renewing warranty in August using Motor Easy as they deal with consequential damage which many companies don’t any thoughts on this company I believe they used to be Warranties Direct

Hello W. Midlands Steve, To avoid undue dismantling and expense:- consider measuring the outside diameter and buying the appropriate straight connector to re join. If it’s a very low pressure breather, you could even find that a plastic push fit connector may suffice. Should be plenty on EBay. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 if it's from a dealer it's their responsibility to make sure these issues are fully rectified before you collect the vehicle

Welcome Bob, Strange one that! When you say ‘when the car warms up…’. Could you try a little experiment ( if not already tried). Start the car as normal, but do not attempt to operate the flashers. Do not move the car, but leave it idle until the cabin temperature reaches a sensible level - even though the outside temperature is still low. Once the cabin is reasonably warm, try the flashers, and report back. If they still don’t work, then road test the car and see if they start working at less distance covered, than they did when the car was moved from cold. Kind regards, Gareth.

Wishing all forum members and their families a very enjoyable Christmas, and I hope 2024 will be kind to you all. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hey Tony, 100k is quite a few miles for one of these depending on what has been done to it. I purchased mine at 50k and the Hadlex filter was clogged, this was after it was done 20k miles ago by the last owner. (but still working somehow) Most examples for sale don't have any diff or gearbox oil change history, although some do. Thankfully mine had the DSG oil changed at 35k & 50k. The filter clogs on these which then destroys the pump, this can be fixed in around 3 hours with a new pump oil & filter depending on the level of damage. In regards to the DSG oil, it is more important IMO as this is much much more expensive to repair than the rear diff. Personally, I would look out for one with some history & lower miles, even if it takes a few more months of suffering or saving etc. They are complicated cars and need to be looked after in an OCD-like fashion to avoid issues. Even at 50k, Mine needed a new Diverter, PCV, front door speaker, blower motor & condenser/re-gas. I did most of this myself so It wasn't so bad. Depending on what model/engine you are going for there are quite a few common issues to look out for when purchasing also. The DQ250 & DQ500 are a couple of the best gearboxes ever made, but still need to be looked after. I'm assuming you are looking at either the 2.0 TSFI or 2.0 TDI non-S/RS model, but the same principles of care and maintenance apply to all AWD DSG models. From my experience, unless you drive slowly I would follow the below schedule. If you drive chilled you can probably get away with the standard recommendations. DSG OIL & Filter 20k (Standard Reccomnedation 40k Miles) Haldex OIL & Filter 20k (Standard Reccomnedation 20k Miles) Engine OIL & Filter 5k (Standard Reccomnedation 10k Miles (RIP Turbo if you like to drive)) Brake Fluid 2/3 Years (Bog Standard) Another thing you could do is request the service history from the dealer, Previous Audi's I have looked at had missing history which I simply recovered by requesting it from the dealer. There is a solid chance that buying the higher mileage car with no history will end up costing you more than buying a cleaner example. Hope this helps,

I have experienced my drivers door not opening from the outside and inside, but never both at the same time! On two occasions, in really cold weather the central locking opened all doors except the drivers door. This lasted a few weeks after which it miraculously worked again. Audi quoted me £400 to replace the lock, but I just wait it out. The inside failure was just a snapped cable, which was relatively easy to replace. A couple of obvious questions. Have you tried opening it with a key? The other thing to try is the MMI allows you to select what doors are opened by the central locking, front only or all. Try toggling it a few times to see if that changes anything. Sorry, but can't think of anything else to suggest. The bolts that secure the lock are only accessible with the door open, so it's a catch 22 situation. I wonder what an Audi dealer would do? It may be worth asking them, they may give you some ideas.

In case it helps anyone, I managed to sort this myself. Swapped the light units and still had the error message when the working right side unit was connected to the left. Assumed it was therefore a wiring problem so took off the boot hinge trim and went searching. Quickly found a broken wire at a bent bit of the wiring loom. Fixed the wire and made sure the wiring loom was properly reseated in the trim. 20 minute job and I'm very much a novice.

Hi you are better off replacing the entire unit not to difficult, not to expensive, but make sure you buy a new rubber grommet as that deteriorates with age and give it a liberal coating of silicone grease when refitting grommet they tend to last longer, thats probably where your leak is. Steve.

Fantastic work!

Worth checking under the bonnet for the exact location of the leak as maybe a small bore air pipe from the compressor to the strut or alternatively the strut itself is leaking. maybe get someone to cycle the ignition to run the compressor

Update : I found a complete wheel bearing / hub from a breaker on ebay. Only 25 quid delivered and now installed , car is back on the road There only seems to be two types of hub, at least on the lower models - quattro and non-quattro. The hub I bought was from a cabriolet but was the same part number as a saloon, it appears the estate models are the same too. (8E0 505432AF)

Update for whoever finds this thread in future. Apparently my expansion tank is a different revision and has no physical silica bag inside. So no burst silica bag. Also checked with VCDS for errors but aircon unit had no faults. I ordered an original Valeo heater matrix from Germany for less than 100€, disassembled the entire central tunnel and replaced it. No leaks around the AC site, but the old heater matrix was almost 100% blocked. After cleaning it I tried to blow inside but only very little air was coming out. Compared to the new it was day and night. Reassembled everything, refilled the lost coolant, reset all the errors. Aircon works again, even hotter than before. After another small trip of 1000 km coolant level seems to be stable. Will keep an eye on it in the next weeks.