Stevey Y

Hi they will most likely need coding to the car also checthat the loom service is in place to power the heater pads. Steve.

Hi have a look on eBay none of the covers are exact fit so around £60 should get you a good near enough set as for the mats they do mat anchoring kits aftermarket, they also do rubber transmission covers which you have to cut to fit but for around £15 they do the job. Steve.

Hi VCDS is the best possible thing you could buy, I have it and despite its price its amazing the support site is beyond helpful, on your year of Audi there wont be anything you can't adapt or reprogram, I personally would adapt everything you have moved or cleaned/replaced, it should also put the light out, just take it with you when you go for your inspection and if the light is on clear it before the inspection as it is unlikely to return immediately as all these faults require a certain amount of drive cycles before the ECU cottons on to the fact the fault is still there, you may well find that a relearn on the pressure sensor cures it but either way it will buy you time to decide what you want to do. Steve.

Hi you have replaced most of the relevant parts, easy check wipe the inside of the tail pipe if you get a load of soot on your fingers the DPF is cracked that will throw that code also when you replaced the pressure sensor did you re adapt the new unit. Steve.

Hi I think that even if you get the right part number that Audi will tell you that its not available anymore, try the ZAP7 website as they do parts catalogues for the older vehicles and once you have the number it will probably be down to buying an aftermarket unit from eBay or similar. Steve.

Hi I am glad you can cover the basics that will help a lot and a grand on the clutch will cover the parts, the car you are looking at has the same engine as my one had and believe me when I tell you that you will have to buy something above cheap for the diagnostics, I ran mine for over 270k and I can confirm that at some point soon it will suffer the dreaded P200 code which is the low pressure EGR cooler blocked which regardless of how fast you drive will happen I strongly advise that you make good use of the forums archive in both the A4/A6 sections as this will give a good insight into the problems you may encounter, the P200 and Adblue system failures being very common and expensive both parts and labour, I wish you the best of luck, the two items I mention are definitely not DIY. Steve.

Hi, yes its been looked after but if you knowledge of cars is limited steer well clear as its coming up to the milage where DPF faults will occur along with likely a new clutch, the timing belt is a plus but consumables such as pads and discs can be pretty eye-watering if you are set on having an Audi buy the petrol version as its a lot less prone to emissions related problems. Its cheap for a reason. Steve.

Hi you may not be aware that if you fit a dipstick it could void your warranty as they are not officially approved parts, they will use any excuse to void a warranty, I believe the temperature sensor is built in with the level sensor in the sump. Steve.

Hi anybody checked the end float on the crankshaft. Steve

Hi sorry to hear of your problems, but I would not take your diesel specialist word as law as I have noticed a lot of them dont have the equipment to service Piezo injectors, try United Diesels who are at the top of the injector evolutionary tree, if not try second hand from a company called Nirro they break VAG cars and do some very good parts for not a lot of money, let us know how you get on, BTW I dont blame you for avoiding Alibaba and his four million thieves. Steve.

Hi the servo vacuum pump is indeed the cam driven type, various manufacturers have tried the electronic type but gave up as they were not reliable which I can see as long as the engine is turning you have vacuum unless your one has a leak on the seal between the unit and the engine. Steve.

Hi go on LLL carports website put in your VIN and it will give you the part number for L/R units. Steve.

Hi the default strategy for failed sensors would dictate that the fuelling will be higher than normal, but in saying that the only other thing to present such symptoms would be a collapsed CAT, try the sensor first its the cheapest part. Steve.

Hi I wouldn't worry about torque settings for the lower ball joints etc as just tight will suffice if you are using the original fixings, the hub nut I would do at 80nm as 148nm sounds like overkill anything I have ever reassembled has always been a case of tighten until it wont turn, a drop of blue thread lock works as well as it stops the nut/bolt from collecting moisture as well as stopping any creeping on the thread, if you really want all torque settings they are all on line, along with the lug nut settings. Steve.

Clifford I really appreciate your sense of humour, nice one. Steve.

Hi could be a collapsed PCV diaphragm, please let us know the outcome. Steve.

Hi bit confused, where is the breather hose on the air filter, not talking about the PCV hose? Steve.

Hi loads of control modules in the boot and if they get damp loads of trouble, may well be worth looking under the carpet in the boot if any of them are damp dry it out and treat the connectors both sides male/female with some WD40 if that works find the leak. Steve.

Hi I doubt its the turbo as if that was gone the howling would be there all the time sounds more like a split boost hose. Steve.

Hi nice scanner, I think the nox sensor could well be the trouble as when these sensors go the ECU can't get the information it requires to meter the fuelling and temperature from the gas stream i.e. when the sensor detects a rise in nox the ECU adjusts the fuel/air mix to cool the engine so the nox comes down, the hotter the engine the more nox produced, now we have a sensor where the heater core is failed this heats and then its calculations are made by a sample chamber which makes the calculations based on how long the core takes to cool, therefore when the sensor is no longer able to give plausible information the ECU will go to a default setting which normally makes the fuel ratio higher to prevent piston/valve damage from heat caused by it running lean. Steve.

Hi more than three opinions stating the obvious, I like that , I really think that you need to get an engineers report which will clarify the mechanical problem but as for your friendship with the garage owner, sorry no one can help you with that on here and I get the distinct feeling that what you have been given is not what you want to hear, two engines on the bounce I think I would be questioning my own judgement, as for mates rates that works only if the job is done correctly, other than that go elsewhere and pay the right price for a job that has the elements of redress if the part fails or shoddy workmanship. Steve.

Hi unfortunately its one of the hazards of mass production, I bought a thermostat for my mums Fiesta it was a sealed unit they all were, but mine just happened to be the one they forgot to put the thermostat in before they sealed it. Steve.

Hi Gareth the SD4 engine was derived from PSA and the same engine was used in the MK4 mondeo 2.2, if looked after the engine was bomb proof, I know I ran one of the mondeos up to 360k, the ingenious engine was flawed from conception suffering with bad injectors, inlet manifolds and worst of all a DPF that they now admit was faulty hence the compensation system which as far as I know is still running, what it did was blocked frequently and would not regenerate itself this led to too much back pressure which in turn annihilated the turbo, worst case scenario was it blew the cylinder head studs, GAME OVER. As for Audi specialist on this forum I think our combined membership knowledge may well qualify us a tad. Steve.

Hi problem is noted and I can appreciate your predicament but I really think the explanation is a smoke screen, I can honestly say I have only come across possibly two cases of seized pumps and in both cases the pump delivery capacity was terminated as the drive dogs on the pump were snapped which had no effect on the cam belt whatsoever, if you think about it why would something on the engine that is made primarily of softer metal be able to bring a much harder material such as a camshaft to a halt, I think they did not fit the kit properly which leaves you with the fall out from valve damage etc, its not fair or right whichever way you look at it, THEY DID THE WORK, I rest my case. Steve.

Hi looks like the low pressure EGR cooler is blocked depending how badly that would throw it in to limp mode as soon as the fault occurs more than ten times it will then put the EML, the p0299 is a byproduct of that as the turbo wont go full boost as it thinks the DPF is blocked, which it is not just the cooler and valve.