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Hi David I do wonder if Magnet is right, something that signals the stop/start to function but not show on the scan....maybe something as simple as a brake light switch. Either way, I think you are right not to accept the car back from Audi until this potentially dangerous fault is rectified. Keep us updated on the progress as would love to know what's causing it Cheers Trevor

Hi Jason...welcome to the Forum We have a Mod section in the Forum all ready and waiting for your posts Cheers Trevor

would be a good time to get anything in that area sorted as less labour once its up on the ramp and bits are removed already

Original air filter, yes....and the MAF should be in the air intake trunking/pipe with an electrical connection. Anything that enters upstream after that will be unmeasured air and can affect the running so worth checking no splits and clamps are tight

sorry, thought to check the obvious first but I'm out of ideas for the MMI, hopefully someone can shine some light on this?

It sounds like you need to sort the intake system first, also look for air leaks in the system (where it can be drawing unregulated air after the MAF sensor)

The recirculating dump valve would only really benefit when changing gear but it is a lot better (in my opinion) than conventional 'blow to atmosphere' types. Sounds like you are drawing hot air from within the engine bay and that is contra-beneficial to the intercooler. You should replace the original air box with a panel filter or spend big money on a cold air intake system to resolve this.

oh sorry, got it the wrong way round. First thoughts....check the reverse light to see if it is working, if not....maybe the signal is not reaching the MMI to show reverse gear?

Yes, it can wind-up and give this sound....I would jack the vehicle up with the front wheels off the ground (one at a time) and then rotate the wheel no more than about 30 degrees backwards and forwards to listen for any clunking noises. Do this on the other side as well and if you hear a clicking/clunking sound then chances are its the CV Joint worn/damaged. Also, check for any other play in the wheel, hub bearing, joints, etc. while you've got it jacked up. Give it a try and let us know how you get on Bradley.

Not the expert in the inner workings of MMI...but if the sound drops off when reversing isn't this maybe to do with being able to hear reverse sensors, etc?

Until I read that you had the turbo vanes replaced and the EGR deleted, these were going to be my conclusion. Were all the codes been erased after fitting turbo cartridge and the EGR delete? If not, these are prior to the faults you are experiencing. The only other thing I can note from the list is that the Battery voltage went low...if this is not a one-off then maybe it could be related to the running fault?

Very strange...the only thing I can think of is if you have a defective spark plug that is not delivering a spark under cylinder pressure.....try replacing the one in the cylinder that is not firing

Have you changed the air intake at all? Possibly drawing hot air from the engine bay? I used to run a turbo engine (in a Rover of all cars) and used a recirculating dump valve which seemed to provide no lag at all on gear changes.

Not sure of cost for reprogramming but here is some tutorial information for initiating the remote after battery replacement that might be of some use

Hi Mark....welcome to the Forum That sounds like an extremely long amount of time for the roof to decide whether or not it is going to open! Not entirely sure but if it has a electro-hydraulic pump, possibly the fluid is low in the pump? Either way, I think I would take it into a specialist VW Audi repairer for them to look at save destroying any expensive components. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

try changing the coil pack over to replicate the fault in another cylinder...that will tell you whether it is a faulty coil/plug

just a thought but if you fit a larger intercooler you may experience greater lag unless you fit a larger capacity turbo as well

Hi Ryan....welcome to the Forum I would imagine the best bet would be to replace the stereo with an aftermarket system that has Bluetooth,aux, etc. Here is a link to some http://www.iceboxauto.com/audi Cheers Trevor

Hi Scott...welcome to the Forum Great looking car, lets hope they leave it alone,unlike the Beemer. Panel filter should be easy enough to fit and I can definitely recommend a Tuning Box Link to article about Tuning Boxes http://www.audiownersclub.com/news/reviews/club-reviews/product-reviews/electronic-engine-tuning-guide/ Good to have you onboard Cheers Trevor

How did you get on with this ? Did they find the barrel at fault?

I can see CR1616, CR 1620 and CR2032 listed for the fobs, not sure which one is right for yours though. got a feeling it takes 2 batteries

Hi....welcome to the Forum My first thoughts are if something has changed dramatically over time then it is quite possibly the tyres. Check the pressures and also check to see if the geometry has changed (damage to the wheel(s) Let us know what you find Cheers Trevor

Hi John...welcome to the Forum It sounds like the phone(s) have set up for your mates car and overridden the settings from your car. Maybe cancel out all Bluetooth pairings and resync with your car again. Let us know what you find out Cheers Trevor

Hi Dan....welcome to the Forum It sounds like a compromise of having the seat positioned so that you can comfortably reach the pedals with no discomfort in your right leg. The footrest is not a major issue regarding driving the vehicle (unlike the pedals) however, you might be able to fit some sort of block to raise/extend this further? I'm sure it's just a case of getting used to it as well, these things take a bit of time. Let us know how it progresses Cheers Trevor

Sorry to hear you're having problems already...although very handy having the warranty Keep us updated on how it all goes