spartacus 68

Some more links. Like everything, just double check with Audi parts as they will need your VIN. This is for 8V. Pretty sure item (12) is the crankshaft cover, not cheap at £115, but it is what it is. Part number 04L103151A. Meyle or Febi is half that price. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/745/1/103/103055 Second part with belt, etc. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/745/1/115/115055

Do a factory reset on the MMI. In the menu, select everything except the Sat Nav. There is a good chance since the car is 2012 it probably had a map update in its lifetime, so you could lose that. Everything else including phones linked to the car will be wiped. If the garage sent out SD cards, then that’s dependent on the MMI staying on, and allowing you to update. If it does, then you’re going to need a trickle charger to the battery. Updating sat nav from SD cards can take a few hours. if the MMI doesn’t stay on, then the car is going to need to be scanned with VCDS to see if there’s a power or critical error with the MMI. It will also show any other logged DTC errors.

Difficult to tell without a scan with VCDS. Would need inspection, with wheels off. Get a plant sprayer with warm soapy water. Spray on the suspension air bag components to see if any tell tale bubbles. Is compressor kicking in at any point to compensate?

That’s a really expensive way of doing things. On the A6, it will likely have a rear camera and rear parking sensors which are already calibrated for towing. Adding a new electric towbar would be at least £1500. I used to have a detachable Westfalia on my last car, but electric towbar is so convenient. If it’s a V6 with Tiptronic, then the engine and air suspension can handle it. In fact retro-fitting anything is expensive. Sort out your ‘must haves’ in terms of you wish-list factory options, then start searching. Also be prepared to travel for the right car. Audi are as tight as a gnat’s chuff with options and moved down the bundle or pack route years ago. My last A4 Allroad had bi-xenons, sat nav, leather, panoramic sunroof, and a factory towbar, but the previous owner didn’t pay the £300 or so for heated front seats! The mind boggles! Personally I could live without head’s up display, lane departure warning, active cruise and 360 degree cameras. Just more tech to go wrong. If you can get matrix LED headlights then that’s one extra you’ll really feel the benefit off. Standard LED is okay. Similarly if sound is critical, full B&O, or Bose, whatever their tie-in is, although to be fair the standard set up is fine.

I know alloy corrosion can lose tyre pressure. I’d have thought a 2019 rim should be fine, assuming it’s powder coated. If it’s diamond cut, they inevitably get corrosion due to lacquer failing. If in doubt, refurbish the alloy, new powder coat, new valve and swap over TPMS sensor. Would be worth scanning with VCDS if any other erroneous errors so you’re not on wild goose chase.

As far as I know there’s two NOx sensors, upstream and downstream on exhaust, bank 1 and bank 2, however the individual component price if genuine Audi is expensive. Should be straight forward to swap out, clear error codes with VCDS. Is it just one sensor. A scan will determine based on fault code. Anything is possible regards rewiring, but given their inherent cost, they are very sensitive bits of kits in terms of measuring emissions.

If you’re looking at a 21 plate V6 Allroad diesel, then check it’s not been on long service regime from new. First owners who had them could have put 18k miles on them between oil changes for first 3 years. Subsequent owners will pay the price with chain rattle and cam wear. Audi introduced this nonsense to reduce fleet cost servicing. You want oil changes every 8-10k miles, and fuel filter every 20k miles. Add a can of Forte diesel fuel conditioner to it before changing. A6 Allroad comes with air suspension as standard. Also spec electric towbar (I have same in A4 Allroad V6), which is a delight. Lastly, get into habit of adding Forte AdBlue anti-crystal to AdBlue top ups. Forums are full of failed level sensors or tank issues. This is an expensive fix if it goes wrong.

You’ve probably dodged a bullet on the Fiat 500. Honestly, they are not like older style Fiats in terms of build, and don’t tend to survive north of the Equator! My eldest daughter had a 2009 Fiat 500 and my youngest daughter had a 2012 Punto. Both needed oil sumps due to corrosion. You can’t leave it, if you lose oil, you risk seizing the engine. Incredible as that might seem, there’s no engine undertray on these cars. I think the metal they use was a can of peach slices in a different life! Older style Audi’s can be a labour of love, but if you service them, they tend to run and run. Anyway, best of luck and hopefully you get it resolved.

Tiptronics are fairly bullet-proof given they can handle 700Nm+ of torque. 8-speed. Audi say sealed for life, but there are ZF service kits, so change around 60-80k miles. S Tronic, usually 7 speed (an handle up to 600NM of torque) and service interval is every 38k miles which has to be adhered to. More reading here: https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/dsg-and-auto-gearbox-tuning/?srsltid=AfmBOooOd6CAlddRf1YthtSE41HieGFiAcCiYkZ86OelaXDbe0L0tN7y

Yep, strange bonnets. It's got a couple of catches and the whole thing lifts off.

Not sure. I assume there's a window regulator that adjusts the window. My wife has a BMW i3, similar in the respect that the window drops on opening, then rises on closing. Wash the window and apply Rain-X or similar onvthe inside. On the rubber, apply the very lightest smear of red grease. That should break any ice contact and frozen windows. Re-apply every couple of weeks until we're out of this cold snap.

Post some pictures. I'm sure we can keep you from an obligatory trip to the stealer. Do you have software to code the battery?

Seems it does, as I’ve found a part number for it. Belt is 04L115264A. Link to LLL parts for A3, CRBC engine, diesel, 2013 plate: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/745/1/115/115055

If you find a car you like, then get seller or garage to photograph the build sticker. Usually found on accompanying paperwork or in rear wheel well. Those codes, list every component fitted, gearbox, engine, etc. You can then manually decode extras with online software.

My wife used to have a 2002 A2 TDI. I still check it on MOT searches and it’s going strong at 180k miles. Do what you need to do to keep this car on the road. Custom hoses may not be as expensive as you think.

Let’s assume you know nothing about the history of the car, only that it didn’t have an MOT and it was retested? For brakes after a major leak, then bleeding from just one caliper could still cause issues and a ‘soft pedal’ with air somewhere in the system. It sounds like the garage just wanted the job done quickly. Bleeding brakes requires starting at wheel furthest from brake fluid reservoir, then finishing at wheel closest to reservoir. There’s also a process in VCDS to bleed the ABS pump. It would be worth getting the brakes bled properly, which means running at least a litre of DOT4 fluid through it. Normally it’s around £100. For those that are spanner handy, then a Draper bleed tool is very handy, in the respect it keeps the reservoir permanently topped up while doing the job. Given the car is 2008, I’d invest in new brake nipples too. They are invariably damaged or worn. Run a smear of ceramic grease on the threads before fitting.

Best quality is subjective, but Meyle should be in there for water pump, SKF, even Febi. Thermsotat, I tend to buy genuine, chances are it’s made by SKF or Febi anyway. Search against OE part numbers.

Run a can if Forte diesel conditioner through it, then change the fuel filter. When warmer weather arrives, fuel efficiency will improve. Run premium diesel too.

I’ve read reports of software glitches, from everything to do with camera and radar, through to not locking car properly. You can guess, but the only way to really see what’s going on is to get the car scanned. Car is 2021, so it would be unusual for battery to be on the way out, however VCDS captures battery voltage during scan, plus reveals logged DTC errors. At this time of the year, batteries do take a beating with lights, heated seats, air conditioning, so anything is possible. Even a cheap multimeter, straight onto the battery will give you some indication of health. You should be in region of 12.4 - 12.6v (car not started), rising to potentially 14.7v under load. If it is battery, install like for like AGM battery (remember to vent), and code in, then clear codes.

I’m just guessing. Is there is physically button on A6 C8 or is it built into virtual cockpit touch-screen, etc? Similar car but with 48v hybrid battery. We never did find out the reason why? Is yours standard 12v?

I doubt it. You'd need to scan the car with VCDS to see any logged DTC error codes. More like battery could be on the way out. Modern cars are very susceptible to a drop in battery voltage fluctuation.

Like all top of the range cars, it’s the electronics that eventually let you down. If you have a decent mechanic, with access to VCDS and spares, then it’s just about keeping on top of the servicing. I agree, avoid 48v hybrid option. Pretty sure the air suspension isn’t something to worry about. The old A6 Allroad was plagued with failures, but technology has improved. No idea what the roads are like there. In terms of heat and humidity, if the car can be stored out of direct sun, that would help. I can’t help but feeling a Toyota Landcruiser would suit your needs better, and your bank balance.

That’s very unfortunate. I feel your pain, especially on a car doing pretty average mileage, purchased from new and serviced. Unfortunately modern diesels have the odds stacked against them. DPF, AdBlue, EGR, catalytic converters, etc. Audi’s price would have included a main dealer labour rate in the region of £200 an hour. Search in LLL parts against your engine code for the actual DFP part. So what’s the options? Would you consider fitting a used part if you could legitimately cross-check mileage? Prior to fitting I’d have it cleaned. Again, a garage may even be reluctant to go down that route, given it comes with an increased risk, but it would reduce the bill. Whatever you do, and hopefully you hang on to the car, start using Wynns AdBlue anti-crystal, and run premium diesel. Oil changes are a given too at 8k mikes tops. Anyway, best of luck.

Any indication of water ingress? Panoramic roofs are notoriously troublesome. They are meant to have slide rails lubricated every couple of years. VW have special grease at a daft price, part number G00045002. Good news you have VCDS as you need that to relearn. You could try a new motor. Again, prohibitively expensive new, but second hand for probably £100 or so. There’s a separate motor front and back, the rear one controls the sun blind. If the sunroof stops part way through, that does sound like pinch protection, however there’s even issues with small alloy cog on motor shearing. If there has been water ingress, there’s the possibility of corrosion on switch contacts. To really see what’s going on, you need to drop headlining. Held in place with Torx screws, interior grab handles, A pillar and C pillar trim, etc. Interior grab handles, Use special tool from RS Tools, which is basically angled flat head screwdriver. Work clean, as headlining marks easily. You need to be under cover with decent light.