Magnet

OK, apologies for jumping back in on this thread, but I must stress it’s your car Oliver, and you are free to follow advice asked for - or not. The advice you have been given has been on the basis of not getting into any more complex possibilities until this potential issue has been eliminated. Good luck, Gareth.

Thanks Oliver, So has the area Steve refers to been checked and confirmed good? If not , you can forget all other possibilities until this has been checked. So called ‘warped discs’ diagnosis is an Internet favourite! Kind regards, Gareth. Dave, p.s. Many - most? owners go with cheapest quote, with little interest in the quality of parts used, and an extra 20mins labour per side can be a deal breaker.

Hello Brian, Is the car fitted with Park Assist? I would still be more inclined to suspect this is a sensor issue/connection onto rather than a module issue. As a matter of interest, is the car ever cleaned with a jet wash? Where about in S. Wales are you? Kind regards, Gareth.

We take it it was the main battery rather than the fob battery -? If so, you should replace the battery ASAP then get it coded to the car - unless something had been left on by mistake. If a want recommendations on what brand and where to buy then just let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.

I would not be assuming the fob battery is serviceable based on the fact it simply illuminates the red light on the fob. From the school of eliminating the simplest/ cheapest things first, I would be renewing the fob battery with a good quality new one before getting more involved. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for now letting us know. As a matter of interest, what brand of battery did you choose, and can we take it it was coded to the car? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brian, Apart from what you see on the screen, what reaction do you get when you select reverse - e.g. long bleep as opposed to a short bleep etc. ? Kind regards, Gareth.

I would suggest employing a trusted auto electrician before considering replacing the seat - which seems rather extreme. If the motor will move the seat in one direction then it points to it at least being electrically efficient. Kind regards, Gareth.

There’s usually a key hole ( very often partially concealed) that allows you to open the boot manually. Can you get into the car via. a key,,and if so I take it you can then open the bonnet? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Rob, but you say ‘…..remove spark plugs one by one and crank over….’ So to be clear, did you remove all ( in caps) spark plugs, and tested the compression on each cylinder when all plugs were removed from the engine? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mick, I usually buy from Parts in Motion, and have found their prices to be competitive and their service second to none. I don’t have any connection with the company. Perhaps you could let us know what the comparative value prices are from the suppliers eventually tried. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rob, The recommended way to check compression is to remove all plugs before carrying out this procedure so the engine spins freely. As Cliff says 110psi is too low. Well worth repeating with the above procedure and you may find you get higher readings. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Admel Probably best to PM him, since he hasn’t returned to the form for almost a year. Please let us know how you get on. P.s. Have you followed Darryl’s links

Thanks Steve, Could you please list a price which is acceptable to you, as opposed to ‘offers’. Many thanks.

Any further comments on this Graham?

Hello Alan, Check connection on to starter motor solenoid.

Look on LLL Parts website.

Where have you tried so far Dave, and can we take it you don’t want to pay dealer price?

Try IM Axles - as per my suggestion to good effect on similar question a month or so ago. Is this fracture in the actual subframe, or a suspension link?

What problem do you have Matt to suspect the control module is at fault?

Let us know what you decide Gwyn, but please take time to read responses on similar threads in the past. In case it helps, I’m very much in Steve’s camp.

Thanks Mick, Your question would be very difficult to answer, if only from the point that everyone’s driving styles differ - light anticipated slow down to last minute ‘on the brakes’ for example. 4mm thick pads are due for renewal fairly shortly. I would agree that if you can see a lip on the discs then it’s worth renewing them as well, particularly since you have to factor in what they will be like in another 32k worth of wear. Discs and pads to use?? Opinions differ, but I have been using Brembo to good effect on a family member’s non-Audi - in fact better than manufacturer’s ones. Just bought Brembo rear discs and pads for my non- Audi. No connection, but I buy most of my parts from Parts in Motion, usually via. their EBay listings. Last day today for their extra 20% off already competitive prices. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charles, Where abouts in S.Wales? - big area! I have used a small independent west of St. Clears to good effect. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, I did suggest you find hoses of the same bore and similar bends - as what Autodoc supply - and simply ‘cut and shut’ them to make up the total length. Have you investigated that route?

Thanks Gwyn, so at least you have returned to the forum in the last 24 hrs. Your comments so far would be appreciated. Many thanks, Gareth.