Magnet

Can anyone help Steve out here? Kind regards, Gareth.

It’s always good to hear/ bad to hear thing, when someone follows your advice, but I think it’s sound and logical in this case. Although I’m not the one in your situation, and I do sympathise, but experience shows that the situation always appears worse when it first occurs. Whatever the cause, it will be sortable, and the selling trader will (unfortunately for him) have to accept the responsibility for putting the wrongs to rights. Yes, you are going to have hassle/inconvenience, but it will be sorted one way or another in the coming weeks. Meanwhile, simply occupy yourself with on line searches for a good garage - it doesn’t have to be an Audi specialist, if one becomes difficult to find, but has to be someone you can talk with and get sound advice on what is wrong. Perhaps you could keep us posted Steve, and of course, just let us know if you think we can offer any ongoing advice. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Steve. Unfortunately, this is going to appear critical, but you (due to your lack of knowledge with cars?) are not describing the symptoms very well, and if that description gets passed on to the selling garage in a similar way, then you are less likely to get the redress that you are probably entitled to. If this were mine, I would be getting this car inspected and road tested by a trusted local garage, and getting a report on its condition, and the diagnosed reasons for the faults you feel you have with the car. This report can then be sent (e-mailed) to the seller, so that they will have a clear/clearer understanding of the issues. OK it’s Easter, and you will be unable to get the car inspected until after the Easter break. This should be understandable, and acceptable to the seller. Today, you should send the seller an e-mail stating that in your opinion, the car has faults with its performance and believed roadworthiness which you are unable to diagnose, and that you are arranging to have the car inspected as soon as possible after the Easter break, and that you will report back to them as soon as possible after that. I cannot offer any advice regarding a suitable garage in Kent who may be able to inspect the car for you, but it should be possible for you to search out a suitable Audi independent in your area via. a Google search. ‘....not a rip off Audi garage in Kent....’ ? Keep an open and unbiased mind Steve. Not all - in fact probably comparatively few - are rip off merchants! Hope some of this helps to form a plan of action with this, which should stand you in good stead. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, ’Checked all tyres and they are all good...’ Does that mean you have removed each road wheel in turn and thoroughly examined each tyre and wheel? If you haven’t, then you unfortunately you haven’t checked them! I’m rather confused by the .’....3000 rpm and 75mph...’ bit, since this now suggests an engine revolution issue rather than a road speed issue - the two are totally different. ‘Balancing...that wouldn’t stop it going over a certain rev. and speed’. Actual rev and speed restrictions are newly described symptoms, so that’s something rather different again. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. We will need a good bit more information in order to give you meaningful advice:- Front of the car shuddering? Can you feel this shuddering through the driver seat? Is the shuddering speed associated or engine rev. associated. - i.e. does it shudder at a lower speed in a lower gear. Does the shuddering alter if you brake? If this were mine, my first port of call would be to get all tyres (and wheels) thoroughly inspected by you local tyre retailers, and if found to be serviceable, to get them all rebalanced - on the basic logic of simple things first. Personally, I would not be using this car until this check has been carried out. As a matter of interest, are the tyres of matching makes and tread wear on each axle? Make of tyres? Perhaps you could let us have some answers. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, Many thanks for the update, and pleased to hear you have managed to find the correct sized O ring. Such items, and assortments of copper and fibre washers are generally available as boxed assorted sizes quite cheaply on line, and sometimes even in Lidl. Well worth investing in. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Am I right in boiling this down to you really just needing a new seal for the serviceable plug? If so, what does the seal look like - O ring, copper, or fibre washer, Dowtey type seal/washer? Perhaps you could fill in a little more detail. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Arjan, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. I must admit that I’m having a little difficulty in understanding the questioning here - it’s probably me. As I see it, you have two used bearing assemblies (why two? - or have I got it wrong) ) and to me, both exhibit wear, so it’s difficult to establish why you are comparing 2 used ones, rather than trying to compare one used one with one new one? Perhaps you could fill in some extra detail. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, Really sorry to hear of your very unfortunate accident, but reassured to know that you have survived relatively unscathed. With regard to the airbags not having deployed in this accident, to me, points to something being wrong in your particular car’s SRS system, rather than as a result of poor build design by Audi. Of course, we cannot comment on why the airbags didn’t deploy in this case, and I think you would need to have the car inspected by accident specialists to determine why. Just wondering how long have you owned this car, what you know of its history, whether the SRS system light has alway come on when you switch the ignition on (as of course it should do) and then goes out within about 30 seconds - again as it should do. These two functions are critical, as the car monitors the full system to unsure that it is operational when needed. Perhaps you could let us know Richard. Wishing you a speedy recovery. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jim, Glad the car has found a new home. Simple add a ‘reply’ with NOW SOLD. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Laurence, If it were mine, I would be prepared to consider Sachs as the only alternative to LUK if it’s worth having a second string to the bow. It seems you are tuned in with the knowledge of which ones to avoid. Looks a very nice and well cared for example Laurence - obviously with a good home! Kind regards, Gareth.

No, don’t spray it on a board. Do as Kev suggests, but spray some paint into the removed lid of the spray can, and use that paint to dip your brush in. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lawrence, Kev has come up trumps as usual. The only thing I can add is:- You are saving a vast amount by doing this job yourself, so invest once and wisely in good quality parts, otherwise all your efforts will be to little avail. I notice you say you have access to trade accounts, and in many respects, that’s great, but I would be avoiding buying on price, but just go for good quality parts - at best prices. If this were mine, I would only be using an LUK clutch kit, if not using main dealer parts ( which even at discount, are seldom worth spending the vast amount extra on, with Audi). Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Luke, Sounds and looks interesting, and obviously attracts your interest - which of course is the main thing here. To me, this is quite simple - If you like it, and can afford the £2,500 asked - just buy, enjoy it, keep it, and get value for your expenditure. If, on the other hand, you might be considering buying it, and selling it on for a profit to someone else, then.....? Different situation, and you will obviously be canvassing for opinion on whether you might get a profit from it - we don’t know your reason for asking. If it’s the latter, then making money is obviously a gamble. It sounds like the vehicle which might generate interest at classic car shows, and might well yield a profit when seen. I don’t think it needs to be said that it’s unlikely to be many/any such shows within the next 3 months. Perhaps you could let us know where your interest lies here Luke. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello, If you search on EBay, then you should find quite a member of suppliers who will deliver touch up paint to your door. If you want it today then you will have to search for local automotive paint suppliers. Of course, Halfords may well have your particular colour in an off-the-shelf aerosol or simple touch up. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Iain, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear that the car is now not starting at all. Although of course, this is totally unacceptable, compared with your previously simply inconvenient erratic issues, this does mean that whoever will be working on the car will now have a positive cause to home in to, rather than having to suspect a variety of components which could cause the intermittent problems - this will be a ‘bonus’! Apologies for being negative and unhelpful to you with this Iain, but to try to diagnose the cause of the car not starting, without having access to it, and simply with knowledge that there is fuel in the tank, it’s going to be virtually impossible to isolate the actual cause from dozens of potential reasons. It can be relatively simple (but potentially dangerous unless you know exactly what you are doing) to confirm that fuel is getting to where it needs to, and/or you have a spark at the plugs - sorry, assuming it’s not a diesel, but from that point on, you simply aren’t going to get any further without the necessary experience, knowledge and equipment. Apologies, Iain, but I think this is where you will be in need of trusted local hands-on assistance with this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martyn, What you describe sounds very much like clutch judder, and is experienced in first gear only, since you understandably only start off in first. Test:- worse if starting off on a hill? Less severe (almost disappears) when starting off down hill? If so, this is not an uncommon issue, as clutch parts wear - particularly the potentially problematic slave cylinder/release bearing. Perhaps you could let us have the additional information requested, and we can comment further. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Sorry to hear you too have had your, and other road user’s safety compromised by the ongoing saga with these tyres, and good for you, for taking up the cause with Watchdog etc. To me, the impetuous for taking up the cause should not rest with any financial bias, but with the possible catastrophic affects on safety. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Erika, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. As I understand it - and I could well be wrong, so this will need confirmation from someone who has been-there-done-that, - but the timing belt system varies depending on the actual engine output, so we would need to know what that output is (see V5). I think the lower output one has a chain which is driven by the crankshaft, and this (shortish) chain drives the oil pump. The oil pump then drives the camshafts via. a conventional tensioned belt, so I guess that is what you had changed. The difference between this set up and the ‘normal’ cambelt driven set up is that the water pump is not driven by this belt. I believe the water pump is on the opposite end of the engine and has a direct drive off one of the camshafts, so is not directly driven via. a belt. To correct what you were told:- The car does have a water pump (it has to), but it is not driven in the same circuit as a normal cambelt engine, so would not need changing by that normal convention. The caveat at the start applies, but I think I’m right - please satisfy yourself that I am/aren’t! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Thanks for being in touch. No such thing as a daft question. Sounds like it’s simply! stuck on, but the double sided tape used to stick it can secure it very (in caps) firmly, as you have found. To aid its removal, use a hair dryer to heat the outside face of the plate and to soften the adhesive. Try to start from one end and carefully but firmly apply heat and pulling power. Once it starts to come away, then you are usually winning. Removing the remaining double sided tape? Very difficult, so generally better to simply add new tape in the gaps, and leave the old remnants there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Thanks for being in touch. Probably a daft question, but we take it you’ve had the battery efficiency checked and it’s been proved to be serviceable? Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry Will, ‘..........revved it and nothing....’ interpreted as -doesn’t rev! Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. As said - Accurately (in caps) check the coolant level. ‘Seems not to be losing coolant’ isn’t enough in my book. Be thorough and check to a level (after standing for a few hours) and report back. Sorry to be pedantic Will, but don’t like seems!

Sorry Will, ‘..........revved it and nothing....’ interpreted as -doesn’t rev! Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. As said - Accurately (in caps) check the coolant level. ‘Seems not to be losing coolant’ isn’t enough in my book. Be thorough and check to a level (after standing for a few hours) and report back. Sorry to be pedantic Will, but don’t like seems!

Hello Will, Short video competition! From the little I saw, it seems typical of condensation due to moisture condensing in a warm exhaust and being pushed out on start up. Is this car running again now then? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Julian, Could you please post some information about this car. Kind regards, Gareth.