Magnet

Hello Dave, About 4 topics down from the start of the forum - headed Audi Recalls. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry, I can’t help anymore. Don’t think I’m getting through.

Hello David, Sorry to hear of your issue. This subject has been quiet for a while, but was so problematic that the forum has devoted a separate section to the topic. Unfortunately only bad experiences had been recorded following emission recalls, and such was the extent of the issue, the consensus of opinion was to keep recalled vehicles away from main dealers at all costs, since even insisting not to have them subjected to the recall didn’t seem to work. It might be worth reading (or perhaps not!) the posts under this thread. Appreciating all of this doesn’t do you any good David, but it may give some comfort to note you are certainly not alone with your discontent. Where from here?? Can tuning specialists assist with getting you back to where you were? Hopefully someone will come along on here and offer some advice on that prospect. Kind regards, Gareth.

Yes OK, so really it could be said that you had a responsibility to test the car before completing the sale - and you didn’t - so warranty?? What you really need to know is whether there is anything wrong with the heated seat, on your particular car, or if the heat level you have is typical of the model. That’s your priority to find out. If you simply get someone to replace the elements, as you suggest, then you may end up exactly where you are now! Yes, worth checking with the seller, but I would still follow my suggested path and get the car looked at by a trusted auto electrician, before deciding what is needed to be done, and who is going to do it. Of course, advice is given freely when asked for on this forum, and it is your choice to decide to follow any of that advice, or ignore it. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ian, I don’t think I would be looking to buy one of these off EBay, until I knew what price I would have to pay at an Audi dealer - you could end up buying secondhand at little saving - until you know different. I can’t really see what a part number is going to do for you, since the seller is unlikely to know that either. Your photo and some additional measurements requests should suffice. If you (understandably) don’t want to pay Audi prices, then it’s worth registering your ‘want’ on the car breaker network sites such as Partsfinder - there are more. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adyg1974??, Did you buy the car from a dealer, or from a private seller? Did you make it clear that efficient heated seats were essential to you, and did you test their operation - before buying- to ensure they met your requirements? Re. the problem and it’s solution:- Probably a daft question, but can we take it you have selected the maximum heat level on the heated seats, and it’s still not adequate? If that is the case, does the degree of heating change according to the level of heating selected? Problem could be to do with a faulty control switch. Two courses of action (if you don’t have any warranty - which you may). Invest in an hour’s services of a trusted local auto electrician, or buy a set of heated seat ‘covers’ for next to nothing, when Lidl have them on sale later in the year. Do you really, really need them in the summer? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Many thanks for coming back on this. It might be me, but I’m failing to understand why you want a part number, rather than simply visiting the Parts Dept, of your local local dealer - equipped with the posted photos and asking ‘ can you please advise price and availability on this?’ Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charles, Thanks for coming back on this, but honestly, I’m still not altogether clear, but do understand that someone has already attempted to do a reasonable ‘bodge’. Considering spending £1,200 at Audi to improve its trade in value? Personally, I think you can knock that idea on the head. I just cannot see any chance of the economics working out in your favour. So OK, you have a nicely shaped aperture and as I understand it, you no longer have the ‘cover’ for that hole. Want to effect a reasonable alternative repair? Why not fabricate a slightly larger cover plate and simply attach it with small removable self tapping screws, and get the areas sprayed! I could even think of neater ways to solve this on a DIY basis, but even that one is better than spending £1200 or buying a cheap aftermarket one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charles, Am I right in thinking the paintwork is chipped around the hole where the flap sits? Personal view:- £75 for an aftermarket just sounds too cheap, and OK, pessimistic, but you could find its fit and finish is not what you would want - and that’s before you will be spending a significant amount of money to it painted. I would be giving this route a good couple of coats of thinking about before following that. My time would be spent on thinking about an alternative method of securing the flap back into your existing bumper. This should be well within the scope of a bit of head scratching. An absolute economical, and relatively hassle free way to get back where you were. Bare aftermarket bumper would certainly not be for me in this case. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Apologies if obvious, but take it you’ve tried Audi, and you then didn’t need to know the part number. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, I’m not sure I’m understand the bit following the abbreviated swearing - incidentally, I’ve asked the question why this forum (quite rightly) blanks out offending words where written, but allows the offending words to remain in their abbreviated form! Totally illogical! Sounds as if you might have an ‘intelligent’ charger, but you would need to consult the manufactures to confirm or refute that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Charging batteries is done by connecting the positive lead of the charger to the positive terminal of the battery (straight from the school of the bleeding obviously!) and the negative lead of the charger to any suitable metal earthed point. No need to get at the actual negative terminal of the battery. Now for suitability of chargers:- For ‘modern cars’ fitted with stop/start facilities and AGM batteries, these batteries should only be charged with what could be referred to as ‘intelligent’ chargers, which charge in a programmed mode depending on the state of the battery. You should not use the old style chargers to charge AGM batteries. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well done David!

Hello David, If renewing the clutch then I would only use LUK replacement clutch components (no exceptions - in caps) if not using the daftly expensive? Audi parts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ernie, You don’t share with us the extent of the tyre wear on the three Michelin tyres, so it’s not possible to advise whether fitting 1,2 new ones onto one axle is a wise thing to do or not. If it were mine, I would be sending a recorded delivery letter to the dealer Principal, expressing your concern regarding the fitting of this cheapest-option budget tyre to a vehicle already fitted with 3 premium grade tyres. Question:- Why was this one tyre changed? We take it you inspected the car and agreed to buy it when the ‘original’ (worn?) tyre was on it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Yusaf again, Very much a personal opinion, but you are causing yourself unnecessary stress by now trying to work out how you would expect the repair to be conducted when at your own admission, you are not even familiar with the basic points of what bodyshop do and don’t do. You are in danger of over complicating the whole thing. Trusted local bodyshops? Visit a couple of smallish local used car sales sites and ask for some recommendations for good trusted bodyshops. These used car boys expect good workmanship at reasonable rates, and should know the good from the bad. These bodyshops will likely be run by people you can actually talk with and discuss what will and won’t be done. Or you can simply go along to larger bodyshops/accident repair centres and sit and have free coffee while some estimator -who you cannot talk to - compiles an estimate. I did say I’m out, and I feel I’m going round in circles! - but you would be doing yourself a favour by not trying to work out how to do it, if you are not actually going to do it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Fred, The first port of call for such things is to check the wiring within the flexible section which runs from the body to the tailgate. Carefully peel back the corrugated rubber section - having pulled out the shaped rubber grommet from one end - and inspect each wire. They are prone to splitting due to this section being flexed every time the tailgate is opened, and eventually can stay together only by a couple of strands. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Yusaf, Many thanks for your thanks for my ‘super helpful’ reply. You are most welcome. But Yusaf, it must be said that your are blindly ignoring the advice given! I don’t think I could have made it any clearer that the specific experienced advice you need will only be obtained from a reputable bodyshop, and certainly not at a main dealer - unless that main dealer has an on-site bodyshop ( which will be rare). Of course, this is a personal opinion, and it’s your choice to go with it or ignore it. It seems you are still hell bent on going down the main dealer route, and that too is fine of course, but you are still asking for suggestions on how to proceed from here!? Are you just looking for someone to come along and agree with exactly what you intend to do anyway? Good luck with getting those alternative opinions, but I can only declare myself ‘Out’ as they say. I just cannot help any further. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ernie, Not good news as Steve says, particularly in your case, where you have a top of the range brand tyre (with all the road holding characteristics that go with that) and a ‘ditch finder’ Brand X (probably from as far. east as you can go) on the other side of the same axle. This is likely to lead to interesting road holding characteristics - and that’s before you consider the requirement of having reasonably equal thread depths on all four tyres. Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Scott, I know this isn’t going to be of any use to you in your current plight, but you should not (in caps) coast an automatic in N. Yes, I have heard of someone having a habit of doing that (why we don’t know!) but he got away with it by changing his new car every three years! With regard to your current plight, if it were mine, I would be seeking a localish automatic gearbox specialist and see if they can offer advice, ahead of getting the car transported to them. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Yusaf, ‘Bodyshops and only scuffs’. Absolutely not. Bodyshops, or accident repairers, or whatever you like to call them, are the specialists in all forms of damage to vehicle bodywork, from repairing a small scratch to complete rebuilds of car bodywork. Really not worth bothering with any other establishments for advice and estimates, but worth going to at least two. Main dealer? Just not worth bothering unless they have an on site body repair section - which few do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Norton, It comes over load and clear that you just dislike (hate) the car, rather than a dissatisfaction with the dealer being able to reasonably fix the issues under complaint - which he must be given opportunity to do, before being able to reject the car. As I see it, your dislike of the car outweighs its problems, so having good grounds to reject the car may not be completely justified. Of course I could be wrong on this, but if not, the wallet-offending alternative may be the only way out if the hatred is that serious. Just a personal opinion of course. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, I don’t know about the possible effects, if any, of all your ‘deleted’ bits, but your description of blue smoke on acceleration after overrun is text book valve guide/stem seals wear. Connection with turning?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Akim, Welcome to the forum. Buying a 7 to 10 year old car is always going to be a risky business, and you are right in seeking advice, and I’m sure others on here will offer you that. Some will say full service history is a must-have, and that opinion is generally worthy of consideration, but it’s no guarantee of ongoing serviceability, or that the car has been well cared for between its half day service visits to a dealer. Again, oil consumption is a known issue with some engines, and hopefully others on here will be specific on which ones. This can be a serious consideration, since it might not be apparent on inspecting/ testing. While we wait for more comprehensive opinion, please allow me to pass on comments from a long time acquaintance who has been selling ‘bread and butter’ end secondhand cars since the days when I had hair! ‘If I could always select the makes of secondhand cars I have to sell, Kia and Hyundai would be the top of my list. In comparison, they cause me very little problems’. So parting with a Kia?? Good luck and kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Yusuf, Sorry to hear of your issue. From what I can see, the damage appears to look worse than it actually is, but it’s always difficult to form opinions without inspecting the vehicle. I don’t think the answers you seek will be found here, and certainly not estimated costs to sort out. I think you are adopting the right route by getting it inspected, but at a (main?) dealer?? Personally, I wouldn’t, since the necessary expertise will not be there. I would be taking it to a trusted local bodyshop - that is where the experience will lie. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Worth getting your tyres checked for damage too, since you may have driven over the offending metal.