Magnet

Exactly as your last sentence John, combined with the comments already mentioned earlier in this post. Did you buy the car and opt for a maintenance/ service package? Regards, Gareth.

Hello again John, Before moving on, what is your skill set in terms of motor mechanics? Do you have a substantial good quality socket set and long extension bars etc., an impact wrench, torque wrench , substantial Jack - etc.etc. since the engine will need to be jacked to remove its mounting? I would class this as an A level experienced mechanic job, so if you are not well versed and/or don’t have all the necessary tools, then I would suggest you just don’t attempt it. If you do, you may well end up with an unusable car. You should find You Tube videos on this and/or similar VAG engines. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back on this Hector. Taking you points, I think it’s fair to agree that the battery doesn’t need to be coded. Varta would have been the OE. battery, and should rule out that being the offender, although I have had a couple of issues of them failing in recent years, and now favour Exide. Does the car have an alarm and possibly an immobiliser? If so, you would need to measure the drain on the battery after a couple of minutes -when the car has fully shut down.

Thanks Richard, but I’d be very surprised if a replaced battery on a 2002 car needs to be coded - but I could be wrong I guess. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Hassan and thanks for joining. Your last paragraph sums up the general recommendation on here - don’t do it. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Hector, A 40 mA draw after the system has ‘gone to sleep’ is not a problem. Obviously, a situation where a battery runs flat in 5 days certainly confirm a problem. Before moving on, could you let us know what make of battery you have just fitted? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Hector, I would be surprised if the battery needs to be coded on your car. Parasitic drain ? What are you terming ‘within tolerance’ ? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Tim, Sorry to hear of your issue. The problem sounds typical of a failed clutch slave cylinder assembly, but would obviously have to be examined to confirm/refute. Re. 30 days return:- I believe ( but not certain) that you are obliged to allow them the opportunity to repair the car at their cost, rather than simply rejecting it. I think your best route is via. E-mailing the seller to alert them of the issue, and visit your nearest CAB and take advice there. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Yes, Mark - as I suggested. Ensure non-silicone.

Exactly what Richard suggested, but bear in mind if it is simply a blown fuse, then fuses only blow for an important reason - to protect the circuit from shorts and overloads. If you are ‘very good … checking’, then I would suggest keeping you hands in your pockets, for two reasons - you could make things worse, and you could invalidate whatever warranty you have fiddled with it! Being on the pessimistic side of realistic, it’s quite possible the get-out clauses of your warranty will render this not covered. If it were mine, I would be entrusting this to a trusted local garage to sort for you, and hope it turns out to be the least costly of Richard’s options. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Mark, Too little information to be precise, but we take it you mean from the fixing points -? Have you tried a non-silicone sealer on the outside of the fixing points, before refitting the light? Regards, Gareth.

Kwik Fit. Good luck with that David!

Hello Graham, Do you intend to have your January service done at Halfords, as the previous owner did? Obviously your call, but if your local branch are as ours, then you will get ECP’s best as parts! Wouldn’t be for me but… Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Egidio, This forum is predominantly U.K. so anything found here is going to be incorrect for LHD vehicles. Regards, Gareth.

Confused Tony! You said in an early post that the garage told you they were faulty.

Yes, got that David. Guess you are taking on board the comments in my last post re. the Amazon lead you enquired about.

Many thanks Tony, So did they renew the rear air bags as well? Regards, Gareth.

Don’t want to put you off anything David, but this is an Amazon only, probably made in China, sold via a U.K. agent, charger. Says it’s to CE specification, but is it legitimately tested and actually authentically CE marked. No doubt you are aware of fires of attributed to Chinese chargers, even with electric bikes. You have obviously ‘invested some funds’ in this car, so why not get a properly installed dedicated outside charger? Grants available? Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Tom Just a light hearted -little bit off topic - on my part. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Tom, I think the ‘Look at me, I’ve got spot lights’ fad is now a bit ‘yesterday’. Annual fad with attention seekers has returned at dusk, where drivers (particularly in dark coloured cars) go as long as they can before switching the lights on. The latest around these parts is to drive p beyond the stop line at a red light. Seen some actually driving up to and slightly beyond the traffic light post! Seeking attention in another way. Sad, isn’t it?

Hello Carl., Try ‘Support’ under ‘Your membership’. Regards, Gareth.

Any update on this for us Tony?

Hello Harry, I think equally important is what servicing has been carried out on the car during its 8 years and 14k miles with you. Perhaps you could let us know. I’m in complete agreement with Stevey Y, and my rule of thumb is once the car is out of warranty, it’s maintenance is only carried out at garages where you can actually talk with the mechanics/ proprietors rather than service receptionists. Sorry to point out, but any car which covers the annual mileage that you do <2k/a has had an hard life, with stop/starts, probably not getting fully up to temperature etc. etc. Respect should be paid to this and the car deserves at least an annual oil and filter changed. Not sure if yours is running on a cambelt as opposed to chain, but if so, I would strongly advise this is renewed sooner than later. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Ian, Regrettably, your video doesn’t work on my system, so I don’t know exactly what you want. But, have a look at ‘Everyexhaustpart’ on EBay - they are at Redditch. I’ve used them in the past to good avail, and found them helpful and overall great to deal with. Think they will bespoke to a sketch. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Paul, I guess this year car would have come with a handbook - ? Have you checked the oil level procedure according to the handbook? Appreciating manufacturers may specify different procedures, but my similar age non- Audi must be checked with the engine cold. This makes sense to me, since from the good old days! of dipsticks, the procedure was always to check oil level on level ground, with engine cold - for me, after standing overnight. Regards, Gareth.