cliffcoggin

Was that a professional diagnosis or one you did yourself with a cheap code reader?

So what do you intend to do about it? In your position I would write a letter or email of complaint explaining the fault and demanding it be repaired. Do not use phone calls or text messages for that purpose. You need evidence that can be produced in court should it ever get to that stage.

Ah, so better atomisation is the key. That makes sense and is something I should have thought of for myself. Thanks for the explanation.

Those of a kindly disposition might think your dealer is snowed under with too much work to attend to your minor faults. Those of a more cynical nature, such as me, might suspect him of prevaricating in the hope that you will give up until after the guarantee runs out.

Dion. There will be a drain for condensed water from the aircon casing, which is why there are often water drips on the ground when the car is parked after a drive in humid conditions. There is a good chance your drain line is blocked. I don't where it is or what form it takes, but you will need to find and unblock it.

Steve. I am struggling to understand how a high fuel pressure makes starting easier. Diesels rely on compression of the fuel/air mixture to raise the temperature high enough for auto ignition. I understand glow plugs can supply extra heat in low temperature conditions but how does fuel pressure at the injectors come into it?

Josh. Don't be surprised if you get very few replies. We are not ignoring you, however most members are British and have no knowledge of American parts suppliers and car breakers (aka recyclers).

Cars do not repair themselves, so be prepared for something similar to happen again.

It would if the locks are still vacuum operated and that pipe was still part of the vacuum circuit. However if you can easily pass air down the pipe without an effect on the locks then the pipe can be eliminated from further investigation.

Unless you have a high quality code reader I suggest you ignore it and get the car scanned professionally. Most cheap domestic code readers are so misleading as to be worthless. There are a few possible causes for your problem that include a defective battery, a faulty instrument panel, and a faulty ECU amongst others, but you will not know without testing.

The reduced heating is consistent with a blocked heater matrix. The garage report confirmed no flow, and though the garage tried to flush it, there has been little success. I'd say you need a new heater matrix.

Another thought. You mentioned an open ended pipe in the boot. Does blowing or sucking on it produce any response at the locks? That should tell you if it is connected to anything.

If diesel, Adblue, ULEZ etc. are a concern for you, have you considered a battery car? As long as you have off road parking at your house for cheap charging the higher purchase cost will soon be offset by lower fuel costs and zero road tax.

What an intriguing puzzle. In my experience vacuum pumps are rarely silent so I would expect you to be able to hear it, even if the noise is no help in locating it. If you can not hear it I wonder if the car has been converted to electric locking.

Ah. I wrongly assumed it was metal.

I can't help with a source, but if the current flange is cracked or warped it can probably be repaired by a local small engineering company.

The fault may not be the connector. I suggest you follow the wires from the white connector looking for cuts, abrasions, poor connection at the other end, etc. before buying new parts.

Good luck with your problem. I shall not waste any more time on it.

Omar. There is little chance of getting a useful reply once you have modified the car by removing the DPF and the EGR. It's hard enough to resolve problems on standard cars on this forum; once you change the car to non-standard it becomes almost impossible because nobody knows exactly what was done. Your best option is to consult whoever modified your car.

I suggest you use your multimeter to test the voltage at the fuse holder and the resistance of the wire between fuse & lighter.

Allan. You have given precious little useful information, so how about telling us: mileage, service history, length of ownership, details of any investigation of the problem and by whom, circumstances when the problem occurs such as hot or cold etc.

I believe there is a bonnet switch that prevents the wipers from working, though how that might affect engine ignition I have no idea.

Photos will not help; measurements will.

A wise decision. Rubber degrades even when not in use.

Not so. If you have opened any part of the coolant system air will be introduced whether there is flow or not.