cliffcoggin

Is there a switch that allows you to lock the car without setting the alarm as a short term solution?

Was that new battery coded to the car? It's essential to do so to avoid spurious electronic faults such as false warning lights.

In that case try renewing the bolbs, because they degrade slowly over time. Are the lenses clean on the inside? Are the reflectors dull or dirty?

I have a feeling that the power and brightness of all car lights is subject to the Construction and Use regulations, so it would be worth checking before modifying your car.

Paul. Could there be a seat adjustment such as lumbar support that you have not discovered yet?

I don't think so Steve. Tony is charging the car very conservatively so there should be no cell imbalance, but perhaps the battery manufacturer or the control circuit manufacturer, which will both very likely be Chinese, has detected some anomalies in their records. I am only speculating here, so it would be useful to know what the reason really is.

I'm glad it turned out so well, and that you found a dealer who seems to be trustworthy.

This does not make sense. You unscrewed the cap many times to refill the reservoir so you do know where it is. I suggest you stop wasting money on new parts like a reservoir and thermostat until you have made a confident diagnosis. You have lived with the problem for a year so a few more days delay while we discuss the matter is of no consequence.

That is usually done to balance the charge between all the cells, so I guess Audi is suspicious about some of them. Do you often charge the battery at the maximum rate? That practice increases the chances of battery damage. (Note my careful use of the words "increases" and "chances". There are few certainties in the field of battery charging.)

Brian. I honestly do not believe the diagnosis from your garage. To change an engine because of limp mode is ludicrous, your mechanic is clearly clutching at straws. I have my suspicions about the cause of your limp mode, but I'll keep quiet until you have had the car tested by somebody competant. Finding an independant VAG garage is easy enough with an internet search.

That's disappointing considering he visited the forum yesterday.

Wonders will never cease.

I don't understand, and can not see a possible mis-spelling. Please explain.

A frequent cause of invisible coolant loss is the EGR cooler. That you now have a visible loss from the reservoir might suggest the hole in the EGR cooler is now big enough to allow blow back. The only way to be sure is to remove the EGR cooler which I believe, as I have never done it, is a devil of a job.

I doubt you will feel a difference in firmness because the hoses are armoured. It is the rubber lining that perishes.

Any progress on this Damian?

Any progress on this Damian?

I suspect the engine is misfiring a little at idle then over-recovering causing its balance to change briefly. The possible causes are myriad so it would be worth getting it professionally scanned or use a VAG compliant code reader.

You have at least proven the mechanical parts of the locks work, so the fault must be electrical or electronic.

Good luck with your claim Tom. You'll need it.

Tom. You have not yet confirmed if it was purchased from a dealer or an individual, and when. Please let us know because it affects your legal rights.

It sounds like one of the constant velocity joints is worn out, which is a MOT failure. The dealer is obliged by law to sell only roadworthy vehicles, and to repair or replace within a month of purchase any such faulty vehicle, no matter what worthless warranty (and they are all worthless,) you have purchased. Take it back.

It sounds like chain slap. At twice per second or 120 per minute it is too slow for the crank and cam shafts.

Dan. It's likely that water has got into the motor through the washer pipe and wrecked it, which was a common problem. The solution is a new motor.

Alex. My internet search revealed four independent VAG specialists on the first page alone.